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      08-04-2011, 12:52 AM   #23
eduardomi
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Originally Posted by myE91 View Post
Have read the whole story, and being a new ( used ) 2010 owner, makes me sick to how a perfectly good car can become a nightmare over night ( pretty much )..... Sorry to hear ( read ) all of that .
I checked my I drive ( oil level thing ) and I still have the same thing on my front gages ???? So I'm pretty sure that you should have it as well.
Someone did not do the programming right orrrrr.... there is a glitch in the programming and someone just missed when programming new software ( with the recall )

I could be wrong about all of this..... my wife has proven that to me time and time again.

Good luck !
Thank you for your empathy, I actually have news...

After spending all day between the indy shop and the dealer I got the indy owner to replace the pump...upon replacing it the car didnt show any faults and it now seems to work fine.

In the words of the BMW tech, the pump problem (not working) was triggering other stuff as the car gets its feedback in a loop so one problem could trigger other (secondary).

Anyways, I drove the car today for about 15 miles and the oil temps were on the 240F steady. I was actually very afraid as both times I got the engine to overheat it was (if I remember correctly) at about 250F which is in the middle of the gauge. Can anyone confirm this? What temps would the car go into limp mode?

I also had the indy shop replace the thermostat...might as well do everything in one go, right?

Funny though, after replacing the pump I now see the oil condition in the dash (the one reading INACTIVE before and that made me think something was wrong at the beginning). Well, it is now reading correctly and everything seems to be fine.

Oh one more thing...I think the indy shop is good but I dont know maybe lazyness? I asked the guys if there was a way to test the pump without turning on the car and they said no (indy mechanic and owner) but by reading these forums I know that if you energize the electronics by pushing the ignition button but not depressing the brake pedal and you push the accelerator for about 25 secs, the coolant pump will cycle for 12mins or so...I mean I know that, its either they are lazy and didnt want to waste coolant (by purging) or they just didnt know...

As far as I remember the process went like this: Drain coolant from misc hoses..Take pump and t-stat out, put new ones in. Plug everything. Refill will coolant, (he said he bled the air using the screw on the reservoir) and that is it. He never forced the pump on by using the procedure I explained above and I have read that it is part of the process when you change coolant on this cars...right?

What do you guys think?

Now, I only need to deal with the sport mode not engaging...oh well

k.
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      08-04-2011, 01:10 AM   #24
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dam the reliability of a used 335i
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      08-04-2011, 02:19 AM   #25
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Good for you this isn't turning in a total nightmare. Either way, still sorry you had to drop that much $$$ on your new ride. Only one remedy, enjoy your car!!!!
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      08-04-2011, 02:22 AM   #26
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go to pacific ask for MARCO as ur rep. tell him Arnold told you to go to him and hell take care of you.
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      08-04-2011, 03:39 AM   #27
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Good to hear the car is back on track.

Regarding oil temps and water coolant temps, those two are not the same thing. Limp mode from too high oil temperature won't happen until it's above 300F. However, limp mode from too high coolant temps is 117F, but there is no gauge available for this, you either need to log it through a ODBII tool or get the performance steering wheel. If the water pump is malfunctioning, it will most likely have an effect on oil temps as well, but in this case I assume that either coolant temps went up too high, or that the car limped because it could not communicate with the water pump.

More details regarding limp modes and specific temperatures can be found in the engine management pdf available in this thread:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38856
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      08-04-2011, 05:22 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eduardomi View Post
Thank you for your empathy, I actually have news...

After spending all day between the indy shop and the dealer I got the indy owner to replace the pump...upon replacing it the car didnt show any faults and it now seems to work fine.

In the words of the BMW tech, the pump problem (not working) was triggering other stuff as the car gets its feedback in a loop so one problem could trigger other (secondary).

Anyways, I drove the car today for about 15 miles and the oil temps were on the 240F steady. I was actually very afraid as both times I got the engine to overheat it was (if I remember correctly) at about 250F which is in the middle of the gauge. Can anyone confirm this? What temps would the car go into limp mode?

I also had the indy shop replace the thermostat...might as well do everything in one go, right?

Funny though, after replacing the pump I now see the oil condition in the dash (the one reading INACTIVE before and that made me think something was wrong at the beginning). Well, it is now reading correctly and everything seems to be fine.

Oh one more thing...I think the indy shop is good but I dont know maybe lazyness? I asked the guys if there was a way to test the pump without turning on the car and they said no (indy mechanic and owner) but by reading these forums I know that if you energize the electronics by pushing the ignition button but not depressing the brake pedal and you push the accelerator for about 25 secs, the coolant pump will cycle for 12mins or so...I mean I know that, its either they are lazy and didnt want to waste coolant (by purging) or they just didnt know...

As far as I remember the process went like this: Drain coolant from misc hoses..Take pump and t-stat out, put new ones in. Plug everything. Refill will coolant, (he said he bled the air using the screw on the reservoir) and that is it. He never forced the pump on by using the procedure I explained above and I have read that it is part of the process when you change coolant on this cars...right?

What do you guys think?

Now, I only need to deal with the sport mode not engaging...oh well

k.
I think your Indy doesn't know what he is doing. The procedure for replacing the coolant is to bleed the system of air by using the water pump in the mode you described (it's hold the accelerator pedal down for 10 seconds with the blower fan on low and the temp settings at 84 deg.). Also any BMW scan tool can run the coolant pump test, why an Indy wouldn't do this is a major concern. Bleeding the air from the screw is the wrong procedure. The bleed screw is for purging air from the reservoir during the refill of the system until the reservoir is full, then the screw and cap are closed and the 12 minute bleeding procedure is started. The final step is to open the reservoir cap and top off the coolant. I'd go to the DIY section, print the coolant change procedure and give it to the Indy, bitch slap him, then find another shop to have your car maintained at.

Tell your Indy that there is a place on line, operated by BMW, call the BMWTIS, where for a few hundred dollars per year he can have access to any BMW maintenance/repair procedure, or there is a book out by Bentley for the E9X chassis (it's 6 inches thick) that has most of the repair procedures in it and does a great job at explaning how the systems work. It costs $90 on Amazon.
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      08-04-2011, 06:53 AM   #29
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What's he gonna do? Give him a hand job?

Quote:
Originally Posted by slickslvr335i View Post
go to pacific ask for MARCO as ur rep. tell him Arnold told you to go to him and hell take care of you.
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      08-04-2011, 07:39 AM   #30
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To OP: I read all your post and i concluded that you should not go back to your indy shop. Here is why I cam to this conclusion. You paid your indy shop to put in a new WP. Your car throw several fault codes (within 30 days of new WP). Several fault codes points to the new WP. That should be enough evidence for you to tell the indy that the new WP was fautly and they need to warranty their work (within 30 days).

The indy shop did not warranty their work and try to blame the BMW dealer. That is enough reason why you should not go back to this indy shop. The fact that you said they only worked on BMW is even more funny.

just my observation.
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      08-04-2011, 11:17 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWrules7 View Post
What's he gonna do? Give him a hand job?


no , but if you go to Schaeffer BMW and tell em Potty pants sent ya... you'll get BJ from the closer !


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      08-04-2011, 11:54 AM   #32
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Okay, you got to put that link to that Steve carrel BMW scene here!!!

Lulz!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Potty_Pants View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWrules7 View Post
What's he gonna do? Give him a hand job?


no , but if you go to Schaeffer BMW and tell em Potty pants sent ya... you'll get BJ from the closer !


ppp
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      08-04-2011, 12:00 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Potty_Pants View Post
no , but if you go to Schaeffer BMW and tell em Potty pants sent ya... you'll get BJ from the closer !


ppp
LMAO!!!
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      08-04-2011, 12:43 PM   #34
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i hate when this happens, happened to me before, u do one thing and then it starts falling apart...
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      08-05-2011, 01:57 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickslvr335i View Post
go to pacific ask for MARCO as ur rep. tell him Arnold told you to go to him and hell take care of you.
Thanks for the referal!

I will ask for him next time.
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      08-05-2011, 02:26 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by txusa03 View Post
To OP: I read all your post and i concluded that you should not go back to your indy shop. Here is why I cam to this conclusion. You paid your indy shop to put in a new WP. Your car throw several fault codes (within 30 days of new WP). Several fault codes points to the new WP. That should be enough evidence for you to tell the indy that the new WP was fautly and they need to warranty their work (within 30 days).

The indy shop did not warranty their work and try to blame the BMW dealer. That is enough reason why you should not go back to this indy shop. The fact that you said they only worked on BMW is even more funny.

just my observation.
I am definitively not going back there.

The fact that they didn't even buy the pump at the dealer scares me the most.

The first pump they put in is BMW stamped Siemens VCO, but the tech at the dealer said he couldn't find the part on his system. The second one is also BMW stamped but manufactured by "continental"?

The dealer was willing to warranty labor and part, provided the Indy bought the pump at any BMW dealer, but that was not the case. Damn, I think I need to get my coolant replaced and the procedure done correctly.

k.
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      08-05-2011, 05:24 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eduardomi View Post
I am definitively not going back there.

The fact that they didn't even buy the pump at the dealer scares me the most.

The first pump they put in is BMW stamped Siemens VCO, but the tech at the dealer said he couldn't find the part on his system. The second one is also BMW stamped but manufactured by "continental"?

The dealer was willing to warranty labor and part, provided the Indy bought the pump at any BMW dealer, but that was not the case. Damn, I think I need to get my coolant replaced and the procedure done correctly.

k.


Moral of the story: Dont own a 335i without warranty (you should have bought extended warranty).

Indy shop screwed you. Hopefully you got 'em to reimburse you for BMW diagnostic fees.
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      08-05-2011, 05:54 AM   #38
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Moral of the story: Dont own a 335i without warranty (you should have bought extended warranty).

Indy shop screwed you. Hopefully you got 'em to reimburse you for BMW diagnostic fees.
best $3,400 i ever spent.... as long as they do the right thing.

2015 or 75,000 whichever comes first. $50 deductable bumper to bumper... or so they say....

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      08-05-2011, 10:53 AM   #39
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So, lemme get this straight... Indy shop replaces the water pump which causes the car to freak out. Indy shop blames BMW dealer for some programming issue. You eventually convince shop to replace the pump again which resolves the issue?

Do you know what happened the 1st time the indy shop replaced the pump? Did they even do the job the first time? Did they give you any explanation? Seems like they don't know what they're doing from what ENINTY described.
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      08-05-2011, 12:00 PM   #40
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Something to think about in the future, when relying on indy shop for service like this, I would buy the item myself and just pay the indy shop for the labor. That way, you know you are buying OEM product. If you don't care for OEM, then have the indy do everything from start to finish. But they will try to buy the cheapest product possible.
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      08-06-2011, 03:42 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Potty_Pants View Post
best $3,400 i ever spent.... as long as they do the right thing.

2015 or 75,000 whichever comes first. $50 deductable bumper to bumper... or so they say....

ppp
What insurance do you have???
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      08-06-2011, 03:50 AM   #42
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So, lemme get this straight... Indy shop replaces the water pump which causes the car to freak out. Indy shop blames BMW dealer for some programming issue. You eventually convince shop to replace the pump again which resolves the issue?

Do you know what happened the 1st time the indy shop replaced the pump? Did they even do the job the first time? Did they give you any explanation? Seems like they don't know what they're doing from what ENINTY described.
Exactly that.

I think they put either a faulty pump or a 328i pump. Once they removed the "new" pump, I found it was burnt at the plug, as if it shorted while connected. Now, that is a reason to freak out!!! Imagine a short like that burning you computer!

I drove 700 miles today...and the oil temp stayed at 235-245.

However, I know for sure (because I saw it) that the procedure to fill the the cooling system was not done properly. They never ran the electrical pump to bleed the air or anything.

You know what? With the pump change I also asked them to do the change of the transmission sleeve...damn I am afraid they either didn't use the right fluids or just didn't know how to do the job because I feel my car to be "heavier" if you know what I mean...if feel kinda powerless...in between gears it shifts smoothly but there is a fraction of second between changing gears, it is not a fast change I don't know how to explain it. Also, after them fixing the sleeve the car's response was damn fast (you'd push the pedal and it'd go), now I find it hard for it to downshift when in "d" mode....oh....it won't go to D/S mode anymore, don't know why.

Any suggestions? :S

Thanks!
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      08-06-2011, 05:04 AM   #43
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Well, I am going to say what you have already heard. Don't go back to that indy shop or the dealership. personally, as soon as my car was out of warranty I went straight to shops I knew about or shops where I am friends with the people working on the cars. Not all dealerships are bad but...Ill save it for another thread haha point is take it to a better shop

As for your transmission, I have a stick and can't speak for yours. I would imagine if there were a problem with it, though, an error code would have been thrown. Exactly when did the car stop entering d/s mode? was it right after they messed with the transmission? did they also do a reprogramming?
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      08-08-2011, 05:35 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eduardomi View Post
What insurance do you have???
warranty direct
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