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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > First Brake Job



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      08-08-2011, 06:30 PM   #1
dwightzeke
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First Brake Job

I'm looking to do my first brake job on my 06 325i.

I've read and seen the vids on how to do this, so I'm ok there. What I don't know is what products to buy. I don't need anything special; by that I mean I don't go race at the track or try to jump over any rivers. I just need the same performance I've been getting, or better, if the price is right.

What are your thoughts on brake packages by Turner or Tischer?

Turner's front and rear package for $400
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-22...e-package.aspx

Tischer's is $335 for front and $295 for rear.

Or, should I buy these parts individually? Sorry for the newbie question, but reading through the posts I just got confused on all the different pieces of advice floating around.

I'm just trying to save money by doing my own work and keep the same performance.

Thanks.
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      08-08-2011, 07:38 PM   #2
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You don't always need to change your rotors. Have someone measure them with a micrometer and if they in spec, just get pads and wear sensors.

For the rear rotors, if you do change them, make sure you adjust the parking brake shoes afterward.

If you don't mind the oem brake dust, just stick with oem. I went with hawk hps pads and centric rotors on the rear of my car. They dust way less than my front does.

Got the rotors and pads from tirerack.com

Turner and tischer are great vendors too.
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      08-08-2011, 07:41 PM   #3
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if you do need to replace the rotors, start by replacing the front as they do most of the work.
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      08-08-2011, 09:34 PM   #4
dwightzeke
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I appreciate the replies. Thank you.
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      08-09-2011, 11:44 AM   #5
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We've got the Cool Carbon S/T brake pads on special for a limited time if you need to replace your pads and don't want to go with OEM. Cool Carbon has less dust than OEM pads and no squeal!
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      08-09-2011, 01:36 PM   #6
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That turner price is a great price for everything.. how many miles on your car? I did a complete brake job on my car at about 76k miles, and had to replace the rotors on all 4 corners.
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      08-09-2011, 02:20 PM   #7
dwightzeke
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Hi Mike--Thanks for your input on the Turner price. I have 65k on my car. I'm going to inspect the pads and rotors this week to see if I need to replace each item.

I was told that bmw always replaces the rotors for every brake job and I've read conflicting thoughts on whether this is necessary or not.

Was your decision to replace the rotors based on measurement?
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      08-09-2011, 05:55 PM   #8
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I had a very visible lip on the rotor, where the pad had worn it down. I figured it the original rotors had been on the car for that long, they were probably close to needing replacement anyway.

I'd rather replace them a bit early and not have to worry about it for 3-4 years, than have to do another brake job in 6 months or so just to replace the rotors.
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      08-15-2011, 10:11 AM   #9
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Subscribing to this thread. I've got about 49k and am due for new brakes like the OP. BRAKE light is already on for front pads, rears have about 300 miles left. (I don't drive the car much)

Is there somewhere that compares the different pads? I'm inclined to stick with OEM because I only drive it for street - but if I can save a few dollars and get less dust with aftermarket, I'm open to the idea. Looking for standard performance, less dust doesn't hurt. I'm not an aggressive driver.
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      08-15-2011, 11:49 AM   #10
dwightzeke
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others will know more about this than me, but what i found was that oem pads are less expensive (most of the time and depending on where you purchase) but of course have the loads of brake dust.

for those quality pads with less brake dust that aren't oem it appears you're always going to pay more--sometimes considerably more. i didn't find any pads where i could save $$$ and brake dust.

after doing my own research on this i settled on pagid pads for the front and rear for $60 for each pair because, like you, i just need a basic pad. i purchased those online from bavarian autosport.

the only other pads i really considered were from ebc, either the green or red.
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3070A0A0.aspx

http://www.autoanything.com/GenericP...ProductID=3070
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      08-19-2011, 03:09 AM   #11
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my brake light just came on today and i have 27,000 miles on the car and im still undecided to what i want to do, any heads up before i take it into the dealership? <--- Dnt want to hear there BS. Thanks
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      08-19-2011, 09:10 AM   #12
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Replace your pads and sensor with OEM. There's a DIY thread that makes it very easy.
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      08-19-2011, 10:22 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STICKY335 View Post
my brake light just came on today and i have 27,000 miles on the car and im still undecided to what i want to do, any heads up before i take it into the dealership? <--- Dnt want to hear there BS. Thanks
When mine came on at an early mileage, it was a sensor.
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      08-19-2011, 02:03 PM   #14
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I just used rock auto centrix for about $30 wheel pair. seem to be fine after 5k miles. I think most squeals are coming from the sensor... i disconnected mine and zip tied them to the ABS. If you take them off completely then you'll get an error.
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      08-19-2011, 04:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshboody View Post
I just used rock auto centrix for about $30 wheel pair. seem to be fine after 5k miles. I think most squeals are coming from the sensor... i disconnected mine and zip tied them to the ABS. If you take them off completely then you'll get an error.
Did you use Centric posi-quiet? Are the semi-metallic or ceramic? Or the basic C-Tek? I am considering the posi-quiet semi-metallic or going with the OEM Textar pads. The dust doesn't bother me because I use a spray on wheel wax after every wash and they stay clean and shiny for up to 2 weeks.
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      08-22-2011, 02:44 PM   #16
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since i havent seen it posted anywhere, its worth noting that you cant properly bleed the brakes without a scan tool. this comes straight from the bentley manual, as well as a reputable indy mechanic. I just did my brakes today, and they are not right, because they havent been properly bled yet.

that said, i went with turner. they are great guys and have always been easy to deal with. metal master pads and tms rotors. look good, cant wait to see how they feel when the job is done
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      08-22-2011, 04:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Streak View Post
Did you use Centric posi-quiet? Are the semi-metallic or ceramic? Or the basic C-Tek? I am considering the posi-quiet semi-metallic or going with the OEM Textar pads. The dust doesn't bother me because I use a spray on wheel wax after every wash and they stay clean and shiny for up to 2 weeks.
yeah, I used posi-quiet. I'm not really sure if dust was reduced, cause about the same time I purchased another car, so I don't drive the BMW as much now. I did put a lot of drake quiet goo on the pads, so not sure how effect the shims are are alone.

I do still get some light squeal at times... have to be against a wall to hear it, but not as bad as before. Now I don't know how much of my squeal before was BMW pads and/or brake sensor. After changing my brakes I did still have a very noticeable squeal (with replacement sensors) and disconnecting them reduced it considerably. I did buy the cheap sensors though... i wonder if the higher priced ones would be better.
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      08-22-2011, 04:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcalhoun27 View Post
since i havent seen it posted anywhere, its worth noting that you cant properly bleed the brakes without a scan tool. this comes straight from the bentley manual, as well as a reputable indy mechanic. I just did my brakes today, and they are not right, because they havent been properly bled yet.

that said, i went with turner. they are great guys and have always been easy to deal with. metal master pads and tms rotors. look good, cant wait to see how they feel when the job is done
Can you explain the need to use a scan tool for bleeding. How is it used? I can't see where this would be needed for bleeding and/or replacing brake fluid. Of course you need to reset change interval after replacing fluid.
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      08-23-2011, 10:44 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshboody View Post
Can you explain the need to use a scan tool for bleeding. How is it used? I can't see where this would be needed for bleeding and/or replacing brake fluid. Of course you need to reset change interval after replacing fluid.
the manual says that the scan tool will use "pulsations or vibrations" to remove air from the brake lines, thereby ensuring no air is trapped in them. I personally think its a rather over engineered system, but BMW seems to think otherwise. There is a write up for doing the bleed without a scan tool, but i dont see how its useful because its the same thing just without the scan tool and a warning that says if you are absolutely sure no air has been introduced, youll be fine. but it then alludes to the idea that opening any part of the system will introduce air.
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