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      09-08-2011, 07:47 AM   #23
sunpole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
Just to clarify some things since I sold you the harness:
  • There are NO instructions included with the harness from Technic, if there had been, I would have included them.
  • Actually, the part you are holding is a 20Amp Inline Fuse Holder/Fuse - used for adding a fuse into a circuit. Now that I think about it, it has nothing to do with the harness, I must have got that mixed in with the harness when all my wiring items were in one box and figured it went with the harness - so you got that for free
  • There IS an Amp Input Mode selection Switch - in configuration I was planning on using, I would have set it to '4 CH' In this mode, with my hookup plan, the Amp CH5&6 (Subs) would have operated with the sum of CH1 & CH3 and CH2 & CH4 Input Signals respectively

Initial settings recommended by Technic were:

- all Gains @ minimum
- front high pass to 150Hz
- rear high pass to 150Hz
- underseat woofers low pass at 200Hz

and then adjust to taste.

To bridge with this amp (I was not going this route in my plan):

To bridge a Pr of channels on this amp you would use the 'Left +' and 'Right -' speaker connectors only (the 'Left -' & 'Right + remain unused). When bridged, each channel will then deliver optimum power into a 4ohm load.

When a Pr of channels are bridged, they will deliver 200W x1 into a 4ohm load or 150W x1 into an 8ohm load. Operating a Pr of bridged channels into a load lower than 4ohms is not recommended by JL.

Because a bridged Pr of channels requires that both channels receive input, you need to connect both left & right inputs to the source unit. Connection of only one input will result in reduced power output, increased distortion & can cause the amp to overheat - so don't do this!

When a Pr of the amps channels are operating in bridged mode, the output will be in Mono. This mono channel can contain 'Right Channel Only Info', 'Left Channel Only Info', or the sum of the info from both the right & left channels. To achieve one of these options, you would configure the inputs to that Pr of channels in one of these (2) ways:

1.Left Channel Only or Right Channel Only
Use a 'Y' adaptor to split the single channel signal into both left & right RCA inputs. This method would be useful when using a Pr of the amps channels to drive left channel speakers only & the other Pr to drive right channel speakers only

2.Left + Right Channel
When bridged & fed by a stereo input, a Pr of the amp's channels will automatically combine the Left & Right channels into a summed mono (left + right) channel. This option is useful when using a Pr of the amp's channels to drive a subwoofer system or a summed mono center channel.
Level selection was set to 6 channel, bridge 1 is exactly what I did, Y split the L channel to 3,4 and R channel to 5,6.
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      09-08-2011, 07:53 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antbizz0 View Post
Thinking about the jehnert as well. Do they sound good? Did you replace the fronts and rears? What about the morel ovation as well. Will those fit in the coupe?'
As of now, I thought they sound horrible, the only thing that sound good is the underseat. It is hard for me to imagine how good they can be with the hissing noise removed, because I was able to get rid of the hiss when turned amp gain to 0.

Last edited by sunpole; 09-08-2011 at 08:20 AM.
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      09-08-2011, 08:18 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
I don't know where you bought it, and given that you wired the crossovers yourself - no offense meant, but I have no idea if you wired the speakers correctly either. That's why we provide that speaker in-door plug-and-play harness which you mentioned in an earlier post - so that there's no possibility of anyone getting any of the connections wrong.
I bought it directly from the authorized US dealer from their website, I trust the parts should be OEM quality parts. I agree your harness would definitely come handy in my case. I am pretty confident I got the crossover wired correctly as there are lables on it. And I soldered the connection. However, my wiring fell short, I had to extend it by strip and twist it to other piece and black taped. I don't think that should have any problem.

For the speaker wiring, since there is no label of +/- on it. Could you help clarify something, would be greatly appreciated. I used the larger clip as positive end, and smaller clip as negative, is that correct?

Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
(By the way, I don't know how you mounted the circuit board, but if you used anything with a metallic surface, such as sound damping material with aluminum, or even metallic duct tape...)
I had to strip it down to bare circuit to get it fit in the door. I used velcro to mount at upper back end corner of the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
Did you use twisted-pair RCA from the Technic harness to the amp input?
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
I've followed your hiss problem posts, and the last thing you need to do is add more gear. You've seen our customers post that they haven't had hiss problems with this amp unless the gains are too high, and I haven't seen hiss problems with this amp myself. I've also heard these speakers, and I know that when everything is properly connected, this gear should sound great.
Any suggestion what I can do at this point? Should I bring this to a shop near by?
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      09-08-2011, 08:19 AM   #26
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Quote:
So you could be masking a ground/interference problem in the car.
That's precisely what I think it is for the hissing noise.
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      09-08-2011, 08:40 PM   #27
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      09-08-2011, 10:08 PM   #28
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Thanks for checking man. By setting the high pass at 500 hz for the front speakers, that actually helped the sound a little bit, it is not as harsh as before.

Hissing noise is still there as soon as I increase the gain. I can't hear it when volume and gain are turned all the way down, I am not sure if that increase when playing music and causing the harshness.

Of course the whole thing fell far from my expectation. After more tuning, I feel the Jehnert door speakers are too small to handle a lot of the lower frequencies > 200 and it gets distorted easily. Maybe the next step is to add a MS8 or some sort, but that would be down the road, I am staying put for now until someone can tell me what's wrong.

I'm glad everything worked out for you buddy, sorry didn't get a chance to take a picture of the door panel for you, hope you should be all set by now.
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      09-09-2011, 05:46 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunpole View Post
Thanks for checking man. By setting the high pass at 500 hz for the front speakers, that actually helped the sound a little bit, it is not as harsh as before.

Hissing noise is still there as soon as I increase the gain. I can't hear it when volume and gain are turned all the way down, I am not sure if that increase when playing music and causing the harshness.

Of course the whole thing fell far from my expectation. After more tuning, I feel the Jehnert door speakers are too small to handle a lot of the lower frequencies > 200 and it gets distorted easily. Maybe the next step is to add a MS8 or some sort, but that would be down the road, I am staying put for now until someone can tell me what's wrong.

I'm glad everything worked out for you buddy, sorry didn't get a chance to take a picture of the door panel for you, hope you should be all set by now.
In amp installation instructions I have seen, it says to make sure your power wire from the battery to the amp stays at least 10 cm away from any other car harness wiring, I would check for this also make sure your power and ground wires are being run along side any of your input signal wires from the head unit to the amp.
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      09-09-2011, 02:17 PM   #30
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I don't understand the RCA with a diff signal

If the Head Unit is putting out a diff signal with a typical RCA that would mean one of the signal pair is running on the shield . It the shields should touch in a cable bundle that would mean the outside signals are shorted to each other.
Is there a different kind of RCA for differential signals? How do the amp
manufacturers handle this?
If the first proposition is true and there is anyplace where jumped RCA's can touch then it looks like you should put some tape or some kind of insulator around them.
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      09-09-2011, 03:01 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdgatti View Post
In amp installation instructions I have seen, it says to make sure your power wire from the battery to the amp stays at least 10 cm away from any other car harness wiring, I would check for this also make sure your power and ground wires are being run along side any of your input signal wires from the head unit to the amp.
That is not causing hiss. The concern there is RPM-related whine.
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      09-09-2011, 03:03 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
If the Head Unit is putting out a diff signal with a typical RCA that would mean one of the signal pair is running on the shield . It the shields should touch in a cable bundle that would mean the outside signals are shorted to each other.
Is there a different kind of RCA for differential signals? How do the amp
manufacturers handle this?
If the first proposition is true and there is anyplace where jumped RCA's can touch then it looks like you should put some tape or some kind of insulator around them.
Amp manufacturer's really don't handle it, but if you use a twisted-pair RCA with plastic barrels, it's not an issue. If you use coaxial, or if you use metal barrel RCAs which are touching each other or metal some other way, it can be a problem. Usually that problem manifests itself as RPM-related whine.
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      09-09-2011, 03:05 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunpole View Post
After more tuning, I feel the Jehnert door speakers are too small to handle a lot of the lower frequencies > 200 and it gets distorted easily.
I'm afraid you have something installed incorrectly, since we use these speakers down to 200 all the time without ill effect.
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      09-09-2011, 04:09 PM   #34
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I have been really careful with the installation. And it was relatively straight forward. One thing I wasn't 100% sure is the positve vs. negative terminal for the door panel, does it matter?

Could you confirm which is positive vs. negative? There is a bigger connector vs. a smaller connector
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      09-09-2011, 06:50 PM   #35
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Can you send pictures of your connections

Amp connections and the Power Wire Runs and terminations it might help
some of the experts diagnose your problem.
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      09-09-2011, 10:54 PM   #36
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There is definitely an underlying issue here with the wiring, most likely in the Power/Ground realm or within the RCAs. Why not post some detailed pics so we can see what is going on and how it is done so it may be a bit easier to offer solutions.

I also believe there may be some wires crossed within the drivers themselves.
I am not quite sure where the confusion is as they are clearly stated Larger is Positive on every driver.

http://www.jehnert.de/wp-content/upl...mplett_neu.png
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      09-09-2011, 11:05 PM   #37
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Thanks Don! That's what I thought, I did wire all the positives to the larger clip. I will try to take the door apart again tomorrow and post some pictures. Appreciate the help.
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      09-10-2011, 10:36 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6spdcoupe View Post
There is definitely an underlying issue here with the wiring, most likely in the Power/Ground realm or within the RCAs. Why not post some detailed pics so we can see what is going on and how it is done so it may be a bit easier to offer solutions.

I also believe there may be some wires crossed within the drivers themselves.
I am not quite sure where the confusion is as they are clearly stated Larger is Positive on every driver.
I took apart the passenger side of the door, and rechecked my wiring, so far everything checked out, let me know if you guys see any obvious flaws.

I was able to put the tweeter right next to my ear and I think I've found the source of noise. It is producing very harsh trebles with a lot of noise. I suspect the something is wrong with the tweeters!
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      09-10-2011, 11:04 AM   #39
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looks like it could be a cold solder connection at the crossover...

and why are the tweeter connections on the crossover BETWEEN the mids (or vice versa)??? Is that by design?
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      09-10-2011, 11:09 AM   #40
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What about pictures of the amp install

Ground and Power terminations.(and amp install with showing the
harnessing.)
What model car is this is it an M as those doors don't have the cubby
hole at the rear that people usually stick there door mounted
crossovers in.
Also I don't see the particle board like material thats in so many other installs
whats with that ?(this question is for the experts)
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      09-10-2011, 11:49 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
looks like it could be a cold solder connection at the crossover...

and why are the tweeter connections on the crossover BETWEEN the mids (or vice versa)??? Is that by design?

Can you elaborate what do you mean by cold solder connection?

The mid connection is designed in between the tweeters, that's just the way it is.
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      09-10-2011, 11:50 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
Ground and Power terminations.(and amp install with showing the
harnessing.)
What model car is this is it an M as those doors don't have the cubby
hole at the rear that people usually stick there door mounted
crossovers in.
Also I don't see the particle board like material thats in so many other installs
whats with that ?(this question is for the experts)
It is a 335i coupe with M package. I had to strip the box cover to fit the cross over.
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      09-10-2011, 11:58 AM   #43
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I can see why

But it might have been better to run another set of wires and put them in the
trunk . But that's a major job .
What model year is it?
Too bad the designers were obsessed with useless swoopy map holder bins, instead
or good speakers.

Last edited by ctuna; 09-10-2011 at 12:06 PM.
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      09-10-2011, 12:13 PM   #44
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If you look at the right hand terminal

On your first picture . You can see that the solder isn't a nice shiny blob. (actually its the one just to the
left of the two wires with the tape around them the on on the extreme right is a little better.
This indicates a cold solder joint which can mean an intermittent or high resistance connection also its long term viability will be in question .

Do a google search on cold solder joints.
Do you have a multimeter with which you can check continuity and resistance.
You might want to run some checks on your connections speaker resistance
to the amp , power and ground connections.

Last edited by ctuna; 09-10-2011 at 02:37 PM.
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