SyndicateGTís Custom Intake DIY
Before I start with the install DIY, I wanted to thank Mr. 5 for his ingenuity and design of this intake, Trevor, and Bahn Storm for his help on my specific intake. Iíll post some datalog results in the next few days, but I think Mr. 5ís research speaks for itself. Iím posting this DIY to show you how easy it is to make your own, as I know there are many people out there who think itís very difficult, expensive, and time consuming.
If you are still too afraid of attempting this yourself, Iíll be glad to do the air box for you. Just PM me and we can work something out.
: Easy with a few tools bought from your local hardware store
: 2 hours for the intake / 1 hour to prep the car / 1 hour for the actual install = 4 hours total + 6 pack of beer
Cost of Installation
- BMS Drop-In Filter + Cone Intake (http://www.burgertuning.com/intakes.html
) = $100
- Spectre Intake Tube Adapter (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-8148/
) = $8
- 4í Mc-Master Carr Super Abrasion Duct (http://www.mcmaster.com/#duct-hose/=cx1x0u
) = $25
- Spectre Air Duct Cuffs (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-87411/
) = $14
- Worm Clamps = $4
- Hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, lock washers) = $5
- Silicon = $3
- (Optional) Intake Box = $100-405 used to new
- (Optional) 3Ē Hole Cutter = $25
- Flat Head screwdriver
- 8mm, 10mm, 17mm sockets
- Torx bits
- Socket wrenches and extender (torque wrench optional)
- Drill + bits
- 3Ē hole cutter
- Wire cutters
- Lift to remove tire
- Chisel or X-acto blade
- Zip Ties
- (Optional) Dremel
Ė Prep the intake box
- Remove intake box (use the DIY found here http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30688
- I used wire cutters to cut out the plastic grids on the outside of the box, removed roughly 4Ē x 4Ē square. Once the big chunks were cut out, I used a chisel/x-acto blade to remove the smaller bits still left on. Finally, I used 80 grit sandpaper to make the surface smooth.
- Next, I took my 3Ē hole cut drill bit and cut out the hole. Once cut, I used my sandpaper to smooth everything out, as I donít want any bits of plastic going into my cylinders.
- Here is a photo of the drill bit and hole cut:
- Assembly of intake box and ducting
- Align the Spectre intake adapter with the air box. Mark the 4 corners and drill into the intake box to fit whatever size bolt you are going to use. I could not make 2 of the 4 Spectre intake adapter pre-drilled holes work, so I had to cut though that as well.
- Once all 4 holes are drilled, do a quick test fit with all your nut and bolts. After a good test fit, put a small line of silicon around the ring wall of the Spectre intake adapter.
- Now you can install the Spectre intake adapter to your air box. I used Loctie on my bolts to ensure they will not come off and go into the engine. Once everything is on, I put another small line of silicon on the outside of the air box around the edge of the Spectre adapter.
- Let dry overnight
- Screw the Spectre duct cuff on one end of your duct, make sure itís on tight. Now take your worm clamp and tighten the cuff around the intake adapter.
Ė Prep the car and modify the power steering reservoir bracket
- With the intake already out, remove the power steering reservoir. You need to use a 10mm socket and remove the 2 nuts. Lift up the reservoir and place it off to the side. The bracket is tricky. There is a 10mm bolt at the top and x2 10mm bolts at the bottom. I suggest using an extender on the end of your socket wrench to remove the 2 bolts at the bottom, you will most likely have to move around some rubber hoses near them to get to the bolts. All of it can be accessed from the top of the engine bay and itís also a good idea to keep a magnet nearby incase you drop something.
- Once you get the bracket out, you will see a triangular piece of metal on the bracket that needs to be cut out. Itís attached by 3 tac welds on once side and 2 tac welds on the other. I used a drill but to cut out the tac welds, Iím sure a cut saw would make this quicker, itís not necessary but will make the job easier and faster. Take a wedge, or screwdriver, and hammer and try to brake off the triangular piece of metal.
- Without removing this piece of metal, the 3Ē ducting will not fit.
- Take a Dremel or file and remove any sharp pieces of metal, you donít want it cutting though the ducting.
- Re-install the bracket and move the power steering reservoir 1 bolt over. It will only be attached by 1 bolt now.
Ė Test fit air box and cut ducting
- Take driverís side wheel off.
- Remove inner wheel well. There are x7 8mm bolts and x1 10mm plastic hat. Be careful when taking off, there is a wire attached to the wheel well that doesnít need to be removed.
- Now itís time to install the air box. Place it in position and run the ducting down behind the bracket. I bought a 4í hose which was too long so it needed to be cut. Mark the hose to the length you want it then take everything back off again. Use scissors to cut though the rubber part of the hose, then I had to use a Dremel to cut the metal wire in the ducting (it was too thick for wire cutters).
- Place the second Spectre duct cuff on the end you just cut.
Ė Final install
- Place the intake back onto its seat, and tighten the worm clamps on each side. You can also put the drop-in filter in, cover, and snorkel on at this time.
- Run the ducting though the bracket and down to itís spot behind the bumper.
- Take your worm clamp and cone intake and tighten on the duct cuff.
- I used 2 zip ties together and placed around the ducting just behind the cone intake. I found a spot to attach the zip ties to on the bumper.
- Re-install wheel well and wheel (torque 17mm lugs to 95lbs)
- Check to see if everything is installed properly (donít forget about the brake line near the intake).
- Drive around and have fun!
*If you have any questions, comments, or concerns please feel free to PM me.
**If you notice any errors let me know via PM.
***Here are some extra references for your reading pleasure (thanks to Bahn Stormer).
Mr.5's original intake design:
Mr. 5's update:
Mr. 5 VBox testing:
Bahn Stormer Dyno test and design:
Zasquatch design (machined flange/coupling):
rwalker reservoir bracket (post #61):