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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Lets talk camber :)



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      09-19-2011, 12:20 AM   #23
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      09-19-2011, 11:17 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions View Post
Ask for the most negative camber in the front. (wont be much).

Zero toe all around. As long as your toe is zero you will have virtually no uneven tire wear.

I would run about -1 in the rear personally.

I used to run -2 camber on my last car with zero toe and there was absolutely no uneven tire wear.
toe in the rear is what gives the car its foward bite , going negetive would be a bad idea !!! will handle like shit !
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      09-20-2011, 10:26 AM   #25
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So I looked and does appear that both pins are missing, or parially missing. Its hard to say as Ive not seen a 'proper' pin. I wonder when this happened and who did it?
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      09-20-2011, 10:40 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taylors335 View Post
toe in the rear is what gives the car its foward bite , going negetive would be a bad idea !!! will handle like shit !
I think he meant negative in regards to camber, not toe. I hope so at least.
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      09-20-2011, 11:27 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fraggy View Post
So I looked and does appear that both pins are missing, or parially missing. Its hard to say as Ive not seen a 'proper' pin. I wonder when this happened and who did it?
Here it is. Looks like it takes an allen bit. Perhaps you can get replacements from Tischer. I just don't know if it's screwed in or not.



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      09-20-2011, 11:31 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motion View Post
It screws in.

Use the correct size wrench or socket next time. You are rounding off your 13mm top mount nuts.
That was the alignment shop that thought they could adjust camber. I'll replace them if need be.
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      09-20-2011, 12:26 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motion View Post
It screws in.

Use the correct size wrench or socket next time. You are rounding off your 13mm top mount nuts.
Nope, nothing like that on mine.
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      09-20-2011, 12:47 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motion View Post
It screws in.
If the pins just screw in and out.. then I wonder why people tend to drill them out to remove them?
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      09-20-2011, 01:14 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axis View Post
If the pins just screw in and out.. then I wonder why people tend to drill them out to remove them?

mine don't have that little allen head. The pins on mine are integral with the casting on the upper mount, so they have to be drilled out (it's super easy though). I have a 2006 E90 so maybe they are different depending on year and model.
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      09-21-2011, 03:38 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-y View Post
mine don't have that little allen head. The pins on mine are integral with the casting on the upper mount, so they have to be drilled out (it's super easy though). I have a 2006 E90 so maybe they are different depending on year and model.
Yeah 06 330 here, and mine were drilled out at some point too.
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      09-23-2011, 09:26 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fraggy View Post
Ok, I need to get an alignment as I\'ve recently changed out shocks. So I need to decide to stay with stock camber or ask for something more aggressive.

My questions are what are the benefits of more negative camber, what driving dynamics change, and what are negatives, such as uneven tire wear.

Also what differences are felt in straight line driving (freeway) and cornering, both positive and negative.

Thanks!!
Without camber plates, max your camer on the front, which shouldn't be more than -1 even on a lowered car. With that amount there is hardly any negatives unless all you do is freeway driving with no corners. With some negative camber the car is more likely to follow the irregular road surfaces a bit more, but you will not likely to notice it. The added handling benefits outweigh it - Better turn-in, quicker steering response and less understeer are just the few benefits of additional camber.

Last edited by HP Autosport; 09-25-2011 at 01:23 AM.
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      09-25-2011, 12:25 AM   #34
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Thanks Harold, that gives me confidence to do it. What about -camber in the rear, any benefits.
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      09-25-2011, 01:25 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fraggy View Post
Thanks Harold, that gives me confidence to do it. What about -camber in the rear, any benefits.
Unless you are tracking your car, the standard specs will be fine. Additional rear camber can aid getting the power to the ground if you would like to get on the power early(before straighten out your wheel) by keeping the outside rear tire more square to the road.
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      09-25-2011, 01:30 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
Without camber plates, max your camer on the front, which shouldn't be more than -1 even on a lowered car. With that amount there is hardly any negatives unless all you do is freeway driving with no corners. With some negative camber the car is more likely to follow the irregular road surfaces a bit more, but you will not likely to notice it. The added handling benefits outweigh it - Better turn-in, quicker steering response and less understeer are just the few benefits of additional camber.
I dont recall you ever mentioning this when we spoke about camber plates..so assuming I dont drive much on the freeway what is the max camber I can go in the front..w/o totally wasting the tires and experiencing tramline..
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      09-25-2011, 01:49 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tibra1 View Post
I dont recall you ever mentioning this when we spoke about camber plates..so assuming I dont drive much on the freeway what is the max camber I can go in the front..w/o totally wasting the tires and experiencing tramline..
There are many variables...Road conditions, tire design, alignment settings and so on.

Tires(low profile, stiff sidewall, high performance tires) have the most direct influence on tramlining so will worn out(camber plates in this case will help you) suspension components. Camber settings of -1 to -1.5 will be fine, you may not even feel the tramlining.
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      09-25-2011, 02:11 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
There are many variables...Road conditions, tire design, alignment settings and so on.

Tires(low profile, stiff sidewall, high performance tires) have the most direct influence on tramlining so will worn out(camber plates in this case will help you) suspension components. Camber settings of -1 to -1.5 will be fine, you may not even feel the tramlining.
Cool thx..so can i assume if I go beyond -1.5 I could increase the chance for tramline..i honestly wanted to run -2..WDYT?
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      09-27-2011, 12:24 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tibra1 View Post
Cool thx..so can i assume if I go beyond -1.5 I could increase the chance for tramline..i honestly wanted to run -2..WDYT?
Your tires will still have more to do with tramline...but at -2 you are increasing the tramline affect from alignment.
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      10-18-2011, 07:17 PM   #40
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How much camber are you guys running in the rear lowered? The Guy that did my buddy's car said it wouldn't come in less than 2d
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      10-18-2011, 07:21 PM   #41
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I duno about you guys but I run extra camber to avoid rubbing and to compensate for road crown
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      10-24-2011, 01:39 PM   #42
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if you get rid of the run flats, you have to increase the front neg camber or the softer non rft tires will roll over on you with hard cornering.

I have the Dinan camber plates AND the M3 wishbones. I am not seeing ANY front inside tire wear after pile of mileage.

The turn in is WAY nicer and the car grips with the non rfts so nicely and progressively.

I recommend this for sure.
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