E90Post
 


 
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > vacuum line fix - low boost, underboost, 30ff, wastegate rattle



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      09-28-2011, 10:18 AM   #45
shiv@vishnu
Tuner
United_States
702
Rep
17,616
Posts

 
Drives: X1, 335i
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SF Bay, CA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by PlutoniumTans View Post
After installing intake my car started overboosting !!!! wtf can that be ? overboosting hard body !
Those vacuum lines provide vacuum to close the wastegates. Can't see how you could have gotten more signal line vacuum unless you hooked them up to the solenoid incorrectly (ie bypassin the solenoid completely). Which would be unlikely if all you did was install an intake.
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2011, 10:21 AM   #46
BobS
Lieutenant Colonel
BobS's Avatar
22
Rep
1,731
Posts

 
Drives: M3
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Jersey City, NJ

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu View Post
Those vacuum lines provide vacuum to close the wastegates. Can't see how you could have gotten more signal line vacuum unless you hooked them up to the solenoid incorrectly (ie bypassin the solenoid completely). Which would be unlikely if all you did was install an intake.
Shiv, how to you test if the vacuum lines are working properly? If i have someone rev the car and listen, should i hear something?
__________________

Evolve Supercharged E92 M3
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2011, 10:28 AM   #47
PlutoniumTans
Lieutenant
United_States
8
Rep
575
Posts

 
Drives: 335i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brooklyn,NY

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu View Post
Those vacuum lines provide vacuum to close the wastegates. Can't see how you could have gotten more signal line vacuum unless you hooked them up to the solenoid incorrectly (ie bypassin the solenoid completely). Which would be unlikely if all you did was install an intake.
Funny thing is I got both, I got the underboost code, but I also got the overboost code and and go into a limp mode, as if my wastegate is shut closed or something. Very frustrating I must say
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2011, 10:29 AM   #48
shiv@vishnu
Tuner
United_States
702
Rep
17,616
Posts

 
Drives: X1, 335i
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SF Bay, CA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobS View Post
Shiv, how to you test if the vacuum lines are working properly? If i have someone rev the car and listen, should i hear something?
What I do is move the wastegate position setting in the Procede software around and watch the wg and make sure they respond immediately/quickly. If they transition slowly from position to position (or not at all), you likely have a vacuum leak or some other wg related issue. I've even seen the c-clip on one of the wg fall off and not move around at all. In your case, the best you could do is hook up a vacuum gauge to your vacuum canister and confirm that they are pulling 20+ " of vacuum.
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2011, 10:29 AM   #49
shiv@vishnu
Tuner
United_States
702
Rep
17,616
Posts

 
Drives: X1, 335i
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SF Bay, CA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by PlutoniumTans View Post
Funny thing is I got both, I got the underboost code, but I also got the overboost code and and go into a limp mode, as if my wastegate is shut closed or something. Very frustrating I must say
Mods?
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2011, 11:05 AM   #50
PlutoniumTans
Lieutenant
United_States
8
Rep
575
Posts

 
Drives: 335i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brooklyn,NY

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu View Post
Mods?
I was running fbo+meth on jb4, I replaced dci with Dinan intake and went for a spin, the car felt very aggressive after installing it, and then it would stumble as the charge pipe popped of or something , and looking at the boost gauge and logs it would go above 20 psi in a matter of a second, the car made boost very easy, just barely feathering the pedal boost would go over 10 15 psi. The codes i got were
2F8F Accelerator pedal module and brake pedal, plausibility
29F4 Catalytic converter conversion
29F5 Catalytic converter conversion 2
30FE Boost over target
3100 low boost mode engaged -- CEL displayed
Car still goes into limp mode under hard acceleration. I've had an overboost issue similar to that upon testing the very 1st DIC maps with v5, the dealership stated they've fixed the problem by replacing the boost pressure sensor, the fix wasn't for long.

Last edited by PlutoniumTans; 09-28-2011 at 05:08 PM.
Appreciate 1
      09-28-2011, 12:56 PM   #51
vasillalov
Mad Linux Guru On The Loose
vasillalov's Avatar
Bulgaria
85
Rep
4,200
Posts

 
Drives: 2008 335i Sedan
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Chicago, IL

iTrader: (3)

Garage List
2008 335i E90  [4.00]
I am not surprised at all. I've had similar problems with vacuum lines going brittle and eventually cracking in almost any car that I've owned. The OEM vacuum lines are not very good for longevity. I've learned to check/replace all vacuum lines every 2 years or upgrade to 2-ply or 3-ply silicone braided hoses whenever possible. If you are replacing those hoses with non-OEM items, make sure the replacements are properly rated to withstand the vacuum inside. The last thing you want to do is put spongy lines which will crumple under vacuum.

Just my $0.02
__________________
Equal Opportunity Harasser!
6MT | COBB | AR | AE | Forge DV | HPF | P3 Gauge | Hybrid Intake | O.S.Giken TCD | All M3 bits | TCKLine | StopTech
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2011, 03:15 PM   #52
PlutoniumTans
Lieutenant
United_States
8
Rep
575
Posts

 
Drives: 335i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brooklyn,NY

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by vasillalov View Post
I am not surprised at all. I've had similar problems with vacuum lines going brittle and eventually cracking in almost any car that I've owned. The OEM vacuum lines are not very good for longevity. I've learned to check/replace all vacuum lines every 2 years or upgrade to 2-ply or 3-ply silicone braided hoses whenever possible. If you are replacing those hoses with non-OEM items, make sure the replacements are properly rated to withstand the vacuum inside. The last thing you want to do is put spongy lines which will crumple under vacuum.

Just my $0.02
How do I know which are good ?
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2011, 04:02 PM   #53
vasillalov
Mad Linux Guru On The Loose
vasillalov's Avatar
Bulgaria
85
Rep
4,200
Posts

 
Drives: 2008 335i Sedan
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Chicago, IL

iTrader: (3)

Garage List
2008 335i E90  [4.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlutoniumTans View Post
How do I know which are good ?
You can either test each line individually, but at this point, why bother testing, when you can just replace it.

I usually buy vacuum line in bulk: say 20 ft spool of various diameters. Why bother spending time testing a line. Just replace it every 2 years and don't worry about it.

Another thing: those braided lines sometimes can hide a tiny crack in them under the fabric shielding. You don't necessarily see it but its there.

I've solved ton's of poor idle-in issues on my previous cars by simply replacing the vacuum lines.

As a side note: I am actually glad that the N54 does not have a dip stick. My last car had a cracked dip stick tube at the base where it connected to the oil pan. Very difficult to spot, but it was the root of poor idleing of the engine.

So yeah, vacuum lines = important maintenance item in my book.
__________________
Equal Opportunity Harasser!
6MT | COBB | AR | AE | Forge DV | HPF | P3 Gauge | Hybrid Intake | O.S.Giken TCD | All M3 bits | TCKLine | StopTech
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2011, 04:14 PM   #54
PlutoniumTans
Lieutenant
United_States
8
Rep
575
Posts

 
Drives: 335i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brooklyn,NY

iTrader: (2)

yeah I'm gonna go to NAPA tomorrow and buy some line and just replace it, delete all the codes and see if it's going to help
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2011, 04:28 PM   #55
vasillalov
Mad Linux Guru On The Loose
vasillalov's Avatar
Bulgaria
85
Rep
4,200
Posts

 
Drives: 2008 335i Sedan
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Chicago, IL

iTrader: (3)

Garage List
2008 335i E90  [4.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlutoniumTans View Post
yeah I'm gonna go to NAPA tomorrow and buy some line and just replace it, delete all the codes and see if it's going to help
Make sure you get the correct internal diameter... Go for either 2-ply or 3-ply silicone ones. Alternatively, you can try online sites like these:

http://www.hiperformancestore.com/

http://www.mcmaster.com/ -> has some nice abrasion resistant 2-ply vacuum hoses.
__________________
Equal Opportunity Harasser!
6MT | COBB | AR | AE | Forge DV | HPF | P3 Gauge | Hybrid Intake | O.S.Giken TCD | All M3 bits | TCKLine | StopTech
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2011, 05:07 PM   #56
PlutoniumTans
Lieutenant
United_States
8
Rep
575
Posts

 
Drives: 335i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brooklyn,NY

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by vasillalov View Post
Make sure you get the correct internal diameter... Go for either 2-ply or 3-ply silicone ones. Alternatively, you can try online sites like these:

http://www.hiperformancestore.com/

http://www.mcmaster.com/ -> has some nice abrasion resistant 2-ply vacuum hoses.
Thanks man I really appreciate it =]
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2011, 05:24 PM   #57
Jeff@TopGearSolutions
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor
Jeff@TopGearSolutions's Avatar
United_States
246
Rep
18,404
Posts


 
Drives: C6 Z06, GSXR-750, 09 335i
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: TopGearSolutions.com

iTrader: (32)

Send a message via AIM to Jeff@TopGearSolutions
Yea if your running into that kind of problem replace them all. There are also some under the engine cover that go bad and nobody ever notices them. They go to those 2 black boost tanks on the passenger side I believe.
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2011, 05:34 PM   #58
PlutoniumTans
Lieutenant
United_States
8
Rep
575
Posts

 
Drives: 335i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brooklyn,NY

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions View Post
Yea if your running into that kind of problem replace them all. There are also some under the engine cover that go bad and nobody ever notices them. They go to those 2 black boost tanks on the passenger side I believe.
Thanks I appreciate it, btw got my $ gotta place an order with you, just want to figure this problem 1st.
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2011, 05:48 PM   #59
AKG
Enlisted Member
2
Rep
31
Posts

 
Drives: BMW 335i Sedan
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Guatemala

iTrader: (0)

I had the same problem a couple of months ago, took the dealer like 4 days to figure out! and like $200... so from this thread and experience I see it's a most to check often!!! great post..
Appreciate 0
      09-29-2011, 04:16 AM   #60
Simple3
Lieutenant
12
Rep
555
Posts

 
Drives: f10 550i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: USA

iTrader: (7)

Happened to me as well. My symptoms were:
1) Half Engine Light
2) Only boosting at 3-4psi on JB3 Map 3
3) Installed JB4 and found the code to be 30FF
4) Popped off bumper and re-installed intercooler (passenger side had oil coming out of the pipe where it met the intercooler and cleaned it all out.
5) Drove the car around but NO BOOST AT ALL. Feared it was a blown turbo.
6) Found one of the vacuum lines had split in half and blown off. The one directly beneath it was going to go as well.
7) Bought the same kind of hose as the OP and replaced both.
8) Now car boosts perfectly and I can enjoy my JB4.
Appreciate 0
      09-29-2011, 04:36 AM   #61
JunkStory
Major
18
Rep
1,186
Posts

 
Drives: naked.
Join Date: May 2008
Location: 98230

iTrader: (3)

Quote:
Originally Posted by vasillalov View Post
You can either test each line individually, but at this point, why bother testing, when you can just replace it.

I usually buy vacuum line in bulk: say 20 ft spool of various diameters. Why bother spending time testing a line. Just replace it every 2 years and don't worry about it.

Another thing: those braided lines sometimes can hide a tiny crack in them under the fabric shielding. You don't necessarily see it but its there.

I've solved ton's of poor idle-in issues on my previous cars by simply replacing the vacuum lines.

As a side note: I am actually glad that the N54 does not have a dip stick. My last car had a cracked dip stick tube at the base where it connected to the oil pan. Very difficult to spot, but it was the root of poor idleing of the engine.

So yeah, vacuum lines = important maintenance item in my book.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions View Post
Yea if your running into that kind of problem replace them all. There are also some under the engine cover that go bad and nobody ever notices them. They go to those 2 black boost tanks on the passenger side I believe.
Are all the vacuum lines the ones with a fabric wrapping? I'd love to start inspecting/replacing the lines but there are so many hoses/wires I honestly don't know what is what.
Appreciate 0
      09-29-2011, 06:56 AM   #62
mattsfeir
Lieutenant
United_States
7
Rep
444
Posts

 
Drives: 335xi
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: CO

iTrader: (1)

Some have the wrapping, some do not. You can follow them from the 2 black plastic vacuum canisters in the front passenger corner of the engine bay. Once the engine cover is off, it's easier to see/feel where they go.
__________________
2007 335xi 6AT / Vishnu Procede V5 / Vishnu DCI / Vishnu Meth kit (PWM) / AR Catless downpipes / Borla racing pipes with Magnaflow muffler / Borla exhaust system / AMS intercooler

Best 1/4 time = 12.975 @ 107.15, 1.763 60' at Bandimere Speedway (5800' above sea level)
Appreciate 0
      09-29-2011, 10:17 AM   #63
sdstatestud88
First Lieutenant
United_States
12
Rep
338
Posts

 
Drives: 2008 AW E92
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Hotlanta

iTrader: (1)

What is the correct internal diameter to buy for these vacuum lines?
__________________
Installed:Cobb AP, AR Kittyless, Vanguard V2, ETS 7'' FMIC, BMS DCI, BMS OCC, Rob Beck PCV 2 Fix, ST V1 Coilovers, BBS LM reps, Hankook V12 Evo...SWS 8, RF P-300 Amp, Technic
Soon:New SNAIL, Wavetrac/Quaife, M3 Bushings
Appreciate 0
      09-29-2011, 11:04 AM   #64
._.
Colonel
._.'s Avatar
33
Rep
2,358
Posts

 
Drives: BMW
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Miami

iTrader: (15)

3.5mm
Appreciate 0
      11-10-2011, 11:51 PM   #65
UltraRacer13
Wannabe Track Rat
UltraRacer13's Avatar
British Virgin Islands
19
Rep
911
Posts

 
Drives: 08 335xi e92 MT
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Texas

iTrader: (1)

OK- I took the OP's advice and blew into the vacuum hose after popping off the blue thing. I was able to blow into it without it "stopping" or reaching a full point, so the air was escaping somewhere. Does that mean I have a leak or not? Thanks. I am getting 30FC code. "Exhaust fume turbocharger, Density" which is related to waste gates.
Appreciate 0
      11-11-2011, 03:18 AM   #66
Simple3
Lieutenant
12
Rep
555
Posts

 
Drives: f10 550i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: USA

iTrader: (7)

Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraRacer13 View Post
OK- I took the OP's advice and blew into the vacuum hose after popping off the blue thing. I was able to blow into it without it "stopping" or reaching a full point, so the air was escaping somewhere. Does that mean I have a leak or not? Thanks. I am getting 30FC code. "Exhaust fume turbocharger, Density" which is related to waste gates.
Check all your lines. The braided ones as well. AT first glance it looked like everything was fine it took my buddy's eagle eyes to spot it.
Appreciate 0
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:27 AM.




e90post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST