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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > Changing the battery



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  Changing the battery
This was in a 330i e90 but should apply to most, if not all, models
GeneralXception
08-14-2009
Quite a few guides show how to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery but I needed to replace the battery in my 330i and I couldn't find any guides that explained how to remove it so here we are.

I understand that for many people this procedure will be self explanatory but...
  #88  
By G7HH on 09-15-2011, 09:58 AM
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Thanks

Thanks for the info. Very clear and easy to do. As far as what battery to use, I brought my old one in to O'reillys and they just matched it for me, easy. I didn't bother to register the battery with the car computer and I haven't had any issues; been driving it for three weeks now.
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  #89  
By Chriztofor on 09-15-2011, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G7HH View Post
Thanks for the info. Very clear and easy to do. As far as what battery to use, I brought my old one in to O'reillys and they just matched it for me, easy. I didn't bother to register the battery with the car computer and I haven't had any issues; been driving it for three weeks now.
Report back in 1 year.
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  #90  
By mrjoeski on 09-18-2011, 03:27 PM
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Just replaced my battery for our '07 328i yesterday. Simple and straight forward for the average DIY'er. I did not see this tutorial until after-the-fact.

The car began cranking slow while I was out of town. I had my daughter put a trickle charger on it overnight. The next morning, it was still showing a 2 amp draw. I assumed we had a bad cell in the original battery (~ 61,000 miles). The dealer wanted $299 ($201 for the battery itself) for a new battery and install. I looked online and ALL sites (Interstate, Pep Boys, Autozone, Advanced) called for a group 95R battery. My service advisor said to just go buy a quality battery and put it in, no mention of registering the battery (I'll call tommorow, get the skinny and report back)

I had my wife pick up an Interstate MTP-95R/H9 that I was able to get for $179.95 plus tax. (I would have gone with the dealer battery as I could have got a 10% discount and paid the same but the dealer is a 40 mile round trip and that cancels any savings). I took the old battery out and set it by the new one. SURPRISE! The new one was about 2 inches longer, there was no way it would fit and the Interstate dealer was closed on weekends. I needed a battery right away and could not wait until Monday.

I started to search and found that a Group 94R/H8 battery was the same size as the original. I went to the local Autozone and found that they had two batteries in this size. One was a standard lead acid Duralast Gold with an 85 month warranty and the other was a Duralast Platinum (Not listed on their website) with a TON of cranking Amps. The Platinum battery is an AGM (Advanced/Absorbtion/absorbed Glass Mat) battery in the H8 group. The drawback here is that the warranty is 3 years PERIOD, no proration after that and it was the same cost of the standard lead acid battery. I got the manager to give it to me for $119 because of that fact. The battery however, will never leak, spill or need venting (although I still installed the vent tube).

I installed the battery and the car works fine with no warnings. I did have to reset the clock and date, radio stations remained stored. The problem with AGM batteries is that they are very sensitive to overcharging and will be ruined if they are. If it is true that the BMW system starts putting extra charge into weak batteries and subsequently needs to be "reset" after an new one is installed, I'll have to do this right away so I don't fry the AGM battery.

I'll report back after I talk to the service writer and an independent shop locally that I trust.
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  #91  
By mrjoeski on 09-18-2011, 09:49 PM
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Quick update. After my last post, I took my voltmeter out to the car. The battery read 12.7 Volts. I started the car and read the system voltage at the battery and it was 14 volts, which makes sense as the battery would need a charge after a start. After 20 minutes of running the car, I tested the system voltage at the battery once again and it was still 14 Volts. There may be some truth to the battery needing to be registered when replaced. More to come tomorrow.
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  #92  
By mrjoeski on 09-19-2011, 03:27 PM
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I spoke with my service advisor today. He said that on my '07 328i without iDrive, I should not need to register the battery upon changing it as long as there are no warnings posted (which there aren't). You can check for warnings by moving the thumb switch on the turn signal lever to "CHECK" and pressing the button at the end. IF "CHECK OK" is displayed, you are good to go.

As a failsafe, I took the car to an independent servicer that I trust and they scanned for codes and found nothing. They said that if my windows and sunroof were worrking fine, then nothing needs to be reset. They also said that normal system voltage is 13.5 to 14.0 volts. My battery was out of the car for 2 hours before I found a new one, FYI.

Hope this helps.
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  #93  
By MB330 on 09-21-2011, 07:33 PM
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Great tutorial,
Thanks!!!
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  #94  
By liquid on 10-09-2011, 08:12 PM
fyi a few weeks after i changed the battery i took it to the dealer to get it registered. i got it done for around 90 bucks.
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  #95  
By FrankoQ on 10-21-2011, 11:38 AM
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just replaced mine. Good instructions and had no issues replacing it.
At the stealer now getting it programmed. $180 for the battery and about $120 for programming it. At least I saved on the $200 they wanted for having them replace it.
The battery died with no warning whatsoever. It did last 5 years.
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  #96  
By fdriller9 on 10-21-2011, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjoeski View Post
Quick update. After my last post, I took my voltmeter out to the car. The battery read 12.7 Volts. I started the car and read the system voltage at the battery and it was 14 volts, which makes sense as the battery would need a charge after a start. After 20 minutes of running the car, I tested the system voltage at the battery once again and it was still 14 Volts. There may be some truth to the battery needing to be registered when replaced. More to come tomorrow.
The alternator is supplying power after you start the car. So that's why you're getting a reading near 14v with the engine on. My car ranges from 13.8v to 14.4v programmed as a 70Ah AGM.

Before I had the car registered as a 90Ah lead acid and the voltage would go up to 14.8v.

These measurements were pulled from the OBDII port via the IBS sensor on the battery.
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  #97  
By dbjb on 10-22-2011, 08:02 PM
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Questions...

My battery died probably due to constant hook ups for Procede map updates. Anyway, I jump started the car and everything was fine. Next day, car wouldn't start. Looking at the eye, it is simply discharged. I'm taking the battery to Autozone for a free recharge. After I install it must I perform a reset with the BT tool? I'm worried the car isn't recharging the battery after it ran dead.

Thoughts?
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  #98  
By Brian_TII on 10-23-2011, 10:05 AM
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Your battery is probably just not holding a charge. Also remember driving around with a bad battery can damage the alternator. Id have autozone test it too..
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  #99  
By dbjb on 10-23-2011, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian_TII View Post
Your battery is probably just not holding a charge. Also remember driving around with a bad battery can damage the alternator. Id have autozone test it too..
I already picked it up but didn't install it. I asked if AZ if everything was okay and they said yes. I didn't specifically ask to test the battery. If it were bad though, wouldn't the eye be yellow? It was clearly black.

So, I just looked at the battery again and it's still black. WTH. It looks like they didn't mark the sticker as to whether it passed or failed the test! I guess it's going back to AZ for another charge and test. Geez.
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  #100  
By Brian_TII on 10-23-2011, 10:42 AM
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Nah just replace it. Mine turned black and would never go green. I Just replaced it a while back with a new oem one. Much better.
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  #101  
By dbjb on 10-23-2011, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian_TII View Post
Nah just replace it. Mine turned black and would never go green. I Just replaced it a while back with a new oem one. Much better.
Already on my way back to AZ but if it stays black I'll get a new oem from dealership tomorrow. So did you have reset with BT tool or register at dealership? Seems there's not a consistent answer.
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  #102  
By Brian_TII on 10-23-2011, 06:27 PM
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I bought the cable and reset it using the edbias tool 32 or ncs or whatever it's called. Seemed like a good idea. Good luck
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  #103  
By mike3000fl on 10-23-2011, 07:52 PM
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i didnt register but some info i read suggests i should...the IBS is part of the negative battery terminal by the way.

IBS Measuring /Evaluation Function
The measuring/evaluation function of the IBS electronics, continuously measures the fol- lowing values under all vehicle operating conditions:
• Voltage (6 V to 16.5 V)
• Starting Current (0 A to 1000 A)
• Current (200 A to +200 A)
• Temperature (-40°C to 105°C)
• Closed Circuit Current (0 A to 10 A)
When the vehicle is stationary, the IBS is programmed to wake up every 14 sec. and makes the required measurements within approx. 50 ms in order to save power.
The measured values from the IBS are provided to the DME by way of the Binary Serial Data Interface (BSD) to calculate the State of Charge and State of Health for the battery.
• State of Charge (SoC) is a calculated condition showing the current charge of the battery. SoC is used during key “OFF” periods to insure the battery maintains a suf- ficient charge to start the engine at least one more time.
• State of Health (SoH) tracks the history of the battery in the vehicle. Charge/dis- charge cycles and times are monitored. SoH helps the DME determine the proper charging rates and anticipated battery life. Internal resistance of the battery is calcu- lated by the IBS from the current and voltage dip during engine start. The values are forwarded to the DME to calculate the SoH of the battery.
Software contained in the microprocessor of the IBS utilizes the measured values to cal- culate the State of Charge (SoC) of the battery during vehicle sleep mode and compares this information with that received from the DME/ECM pertaining to the battery SoC/SoH, during the period of time between engine “OFF” and deactivation of the DME main relay.
The current SoC/battery data is stored in the IBS every 2 hours over a 6 hour time frame, providing 3 - 2 hour snapshots of battery SoC information. The stored information/snap- shot data is overwritten every 6 hours. Whenever KL15 is activated the IBS updates the DME with the current closed circuit histogram/battery status information, byway of the BSD. Upon obtaining updated information the DME evaluates the new data and if a closed-circuit current draw is identified a fault will be stored in the fault memory of the DME.
10 E90 Voltage Supply & Bus Systems


Servicing the IBS
The IBS is very sensitive to mechanical stress and strain. It is serviced as a complete unit with the ground cable. The ground cable also serves as a heat dissipater for the IBS.
Particular attention should be paid to the following points in service: • Do not make any additional connections at the negative terminal of the battery • Donotmodifythegroundcable • Do not make any connections between the IBS and the sensor screw • Do not use force when disconnecting the ground terminal from the battery • Donotpullatthegroundcable • Do not use the IBS as a pivot point to lever off the ground terminal • Do not use the connections of the IBS as a lever • Use only a torque wrench as described in the repair manual • Do not release or tighten the sensor screw
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  #104  
By vettegator005 on 11-03-2011, 03:30 PM
So lets say i buy the battery from autozone then take it to the bmw dealership to get it registered how much will just registering it cost?
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  #105  
By FrankoQ on 11-05-2011, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettegator005 View Post
So lets say i buy the battery from autozone then take it to the bmw dealership to get it registered how much will just registering it cost?
probably whatever your dealer charges for 1 hour of labor.
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  #106  
By Fortyb on 11-05-2011, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettegator005 View Post
So lets say i buy the battery from autozone then take it to the bmw dealership to get it registered how much will just registering it cost?
Go to walmart and get your Battery i just bought mines today and it's way easier to install because it's about an inch shorter than the original. Go find you a european dealership and let them register the car for you...it will come out alot cheaper.
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  #107  
By Fortyb on 11-07-2011, 07:30 PM
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$109.00 for Battery and $95.00 to get it registered. Not bad compared to what Bmw wanted to charge Me $370.00. Like there Battery is made out of Gold shhhhh!
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  #108  
By domsaywha on 11-13-2011, 07:34 PM
Does anybody happend to know what that blue clip on the side does?
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  #109  
By IGotBeemer on 11-17-2011, 01:34 AM
I've got '07 BMW 328i, the car was built 11/2006. My stealer told me my battery is week, but can continue functioning as long as I use battery tender. I am in SoCal.

Currently it has the "white" oem battery with 90Ah and 720A (probably CCA). He said, they don't install "white" one's only "black". The "black" battery is an AGM, that's why.

Parts can sell me black for $269 - 10% if I want to install it.
Stealer says I have two options:
(1) buy the battery and he'll only install & register it for $148 + tax
(2) He'll supply the black battery and do the installation for $370 + tax for a total of $399.

There are 3 possible colors to display battery quality - Green for successfully charged, Black and then Yellow. Mine is Green, it's a nice visible green unlike some posters posted that kinda looked black with hint of green.
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