E90Post
 


Lux Angel Eyes
 
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > Ask a Professional Detailer...



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      12-10-2011, 07:23 PM   #1475
IlliniDave
Private
United_States
1

 
Drives: 2006 BMW 330i SGM/PP/SP/Nav
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO


Posts: 90
iTrader: (1)

I've found Collinite 845 as a good LSP on white cars...
Appreciate 0
      12-17-2011, 10:30 AM   #1476
litt
Enlisted Member
0

 
Drives: F30, IS-F
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: SLC


Posts: 40
iTrader: (0)

Hi Greg,
What do you suggest for taking car of a clear bra?
Appreciate 0
      12-20-2011, 09:35 PM   #1477
TheVision
New Member
0

 
Drives: 2012 328i xDrive Coupe
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Connecticut


Posts: 6
iTrader: (0)

Hi Greg,

I was wondering what the best way to clean snow off the car would be? We've been pretty lucky in CT so far with no snow, but I'm sure it's only a matter of time.

Thanks for the help.
Appreciate 0
      12-20-2011, 10:54 PM   #1478
Envious Eric
Banned
United_States
13

 
Drives: nissan xterra, 335 soon
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: orange county, ca


Posts: 1,168
iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by litt View Post
Hi Greg,
What do you suggest for taking car of a clear bra?
heat, start at a corner and peel back TOWARDS you heating up the front of the film, then clean up the residue that might not pull off with the film with stoners tarminator. Its relatively simple, but I have seen some films take paint with it. Thats usually when the panel has been repainted though
Appreciate 0
      12-21-2011, 12:12 AM   #1479
Greg Nichols
Enlisted Member
0

 
Greg Nichols's Avatar
 
Drives: CAR
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Northern Utah


Posts: 38
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheVision View Post
Hi Greg,

I was wondering what the best way to clean snow off the car would be? We've been pretty lucky in CT so far with no snow, but I'm sure it's only a matter of time.

Thanks for the help.
I leave the snow on the car, except for the glass. If have to remove snow I don't use a broom, a brush, or anything that will drag cold snow/ice on the paint.

I like to allow the car to heat up and create a thin layer of water between the paint and the snow, it will then slide off with less abrasion to the paint.

I live here in Utah, it works great for me.

Cheers,
Appreciate 0
      12-21-2011, 04:12 PM   #1480
TheVision
New Member
0

 
Drives: 2012 328i xDrive Coupe
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Connecticut


Posts: 6
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Nichols View Post
I leave the snow on the car, except for the glass. If have to remove snow I don't use a broom, a brush, or anything that will drag cold snow/ice on the paint.

I like to allow the car to heat up and create a thin layer of water between the paint and the snow, it will then slide off with less abrasion to the paint.

I live here in Utah, it works great for me.

Cheers,
Thanks, this process sounds good, hopefully I won't have to put it to use too often. Thanks again.
Appreciate 0
      12-22-2011, 03:21 AM   #1481
crazydrummer
Captain
8

 
crazydrummer's Avatar
 
Drives: 335i 08
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: arkansas


Posts: 670
iTrader: (13)

Hey just get new rims and opti coated the barrels. Had the tires mounted today and tonite there is a bad steering wheel wobble at 70 . Could opti coat have a caused a wheel weight to not stick right and so come off throwing the wheel off balance? Or is my tire shop bad and just messed up (distinct possibility)
__________________
Sold SGM 335i e92 Procede v5, vishnu PWM meth kit, afe dci, custom scoops, PSS10, m3 bits, Avant Garde m6 reps,Vanguard
Sold 1998 e36 M3 silver (got hit, insurance paid out)
Sold 09 e90 M3 Lemans Blue
Current 08 e92 m3 SSII. bolt ons
Appreciate 0
      12-22-2011, 10:40 AM   #1482
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor
United_States
53


 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY


Posts: 3,521
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by litt View Post
Hi Greg,
What do you suggest for taking car of a clear bra?
We have two great articles that should help explain some basic maintenance of the clear bra:

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...a-maintenance/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ear-bra-edges/

If you have any questions after reading them don't hesitate to ask!

Greg @ DI
Appreciate 0
      12-22-2011, 11:08 AM   #1483
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor
United_States
53


 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY


Posts: 3,521
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheVision View Post
Hi Greg,

I was wondering what the best way to clean snow off the car would be? We've been pretty lucky in CT so far with no snow, but I'm sure it's only a matter of time.

Thanks for the help.
I live in NY and I know what you mean, besides that Oct snow storm we've been very lucky, however as you stated it just a matter of time. It's critical to remove the snow so you can drive safely but hopefully you can do so in a manner that doesn't harm the exterior finish. The first thing I do is turn on the car, so if you have a remote starter it's a great time to use it. I prefer to put the heat on the front windshield right away and turn on any defrosters you might have. Try not to use a broom, brush or scrapper directly on your vehicle whenever possible. I then use a brush to remove the heavy snow leaving about .5 - 1 inch of snow on top of the paint. I then let the car continue to warm up and that layer usually melts away before driving. In the winter months I will back my car in to my driveway sometimes so the sun hits the front windshield and melts faster. Giving yourself enough time to let the car warm up is really important because if you're in a rush this is tough to do. While preserving the paint is very important it should never come before driving safe so always make sure the snow is removed to a point where you will be driving safely.

Greg @ DI
Appreciate 0
      12-22-2011, 11:13 AM   #1484
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor
United_States
53


 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY


Posts: 3,521
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummer View Post
Hey just get new rims and opti coated the barrels. Had the tires mounted today and tonite there is a bad steering wheel wobble at 70 . Could opti coat have a caused a wheel weight to not stick right and so come off throwing the wheel off balance? Or is my tire shop bad and just messed up (distinct possibility)
Sorry to hear about that issue. Glad to hear you opti-coated the wheels that will certainly help preserve them. I would imagine it's possible the wheel weight didn't bond with it perfectly but short term I would think it still should have stuck to it. Are the wheel weights missing? That should provide you your answer. In general I would recommend applying the wheel weights first if needed before using the Opti-Coat or any other protection on the wheel just to be safe. I'm guessing it was far more likely an install issue but keep us posted on what comes out of it and drive careful!

Greg @ DI
Appreciate 0
      12-22-2011, 01:25 PM   #1485
jacksonite
Private
United_States
3

 
jacksonite's Avatar
 
Drives: 335i N55
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Los Angeles


Posts: 67
iTrader: (0)

335i door leather got scratched cant remove it

there is a scratch size of a index finger on my door and i dont know how to fix it. i havent tried anything because i dont know what to try. any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Appreciate 0
      12-23-2011, 02:25 PM   #1486
TheVision
New Member
0

 
Drives: 2012 328i xDrive Coupe
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Connecticut


Posts: 6
iTrader: (0)

Thanks Greg...more great advice that I will for sure put to use. I have one other question...my seat material is leatherette, so I'm wondering what the best product would be for this material. I'm looking for something to clean and protect them.

Happy Holiday!
Appreciate 0
      12-27-2011, 10:17 AM   #1487
zanth119
Buy the ticket, take the ride!
United_States
0

 
zanth119's Avatar
 
Drives: 2002 330cic, 2012 328ix Wagon
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Philly, PA


Posts: 84
iTrader: (1)

Garage List
Hi Greg - earlier this year you helped me with a PC purchase and gave me some advice to get me off the ground and into the detailing enthusiast world, thank you, my E46 has been shining since!

Hoping I can pick your brain again. I ordered a Deep Sea Blue Metallic E91, and want to start off caring for the new ride on the right foot. I will have the dealer do their standard prep process (I know there's mixed reviews on this idea, but I live in cold climate and can't devote proper time to the car until the nice weather comes).

I'm fine with taking care of the interior, wheels, glass and exterior trim, questions revolve around the paint

First question

Is there anything I can do to maximize the dealer prep protection to last until the nice weather comes? Probably 8-10 weeks before I can do a full detail, and the car will be kept outside. Clay and polish really aren't an option (I really wish I had a huge garage!)

Second Question

What should I do for the first detail when weather allows? I'm assuming high level:

Wash
Clay (get rid of the dealer treatments and any interim contamination)
Polish (assuming a mild one with a low aggression pad)
Seal & Finish

I've been using the following process with my silver E46, and really do like the Zaino products/look

Polish - Menzerna Intensive Polish & ZPC
Seal/Gloss - Z2 Pro & Z6 layered 3 times
Finish - Z8

However would like to experiment with other products on the E91. which brings up the:

Third Question

What products would you recommend for:

Polish - What polish(es) and pad(s) would you recommend? (I currently have LC White, Orange, Yellow Pads for the PC 7424XP)

Seal - I've been applying Z2 Pro by hand, and like the easy application. I'm fine with applying other products with similar ease by hand, but would like to remove with the PC. Any seal and pad ideas? Also, could I use the same to remove Z2 Pro on the E46?

Wax - I haven't been using wax on the E46, how much visual reward vs longevity vs time invested would a coat of wax give me (the car will always be outside)? The E46 will continue to be my favorite child, but I still want the E91 to look decent, though don't want to slave over it to the same degree.

Gloss/Finish - what looks good with a darker blue?

Thanks for the input, really appreciate your help!
__________________
Appreciate 0
      12-27-2011, 10:02 PM   #1488
schan
Enlisted Member
0

 
Drives: 328 sport pkg wht/blk
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: los angeles


Posts: 38
iTrader: (0)

I used the Yellow pad and 105 on the BMW but I still see the marks. What do you guys suggest as my next step?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Thank you for the inquiry I'd be happy to help. Car washes can be dangerous places for those of us who love our cars. We can definitely help you get your paint looking it's best again. Usually I recommend a full detail at least 1 - 2 times per year and then just wash and protect it as desired in between. A full detail to me consists of a wash, dry, clay bar, polish, sealant and/or wax. This process will deep clean the paint and make it really shine again while protecting it for months to come.

Wash/Dry - most swirls come from this process so quality products and techniques are critical. Check out our detailing guide for this step and other steps to maximize your efforts. Here are two awesome kits if interested.
DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit
DI Packages Washing and Drying Starter Package

Clay Bar - This step deep cleans the paint so it's free from stubborn build ups not removed by the washing process. This may seem complicated or different but it's pretty simple and basic. In short spray some clay lube on the paint and glide the bar side to side and picks up micro contaminants in the paint. Here is an excellent value on a clay bar and lube - DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube.

Polish - This is the step where you really restore the paint to like new again. You can permanently remove swirls, oxidation, etc. not just temporarily hide them. I highly recommend you consider getting a Porter Cable (PC) as they are so easy to use, vastly improve your results while saving you time and energy. We have some affordable kits that give you the PC, backing plate, pads and polishes you would need here DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Starter Kit or DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads. Both kits give you the M105 and M205 polishes with the PC that are going to help you really restore the paint to like new. Best of all the PC is easy to use and completely safe even for a first time user. Again check out our detailing guide for step by step instructions and other helpful hints.

Protection - After polishing protect and enhance the shine with a sealant or wax. Waxes last about 2 - 6 weeks so we generally recommend a sealant which lasts 3 - 6 months. The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is my favorite sealant. It provides a remarkable shine with durable protection while easy to apply. You can apply it by hand or use a blue pad and your buffer. If you really want to you can apply a wax on top of the sealant for added protection and shine. The Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue Wax is a great option for a quality liquid wax that works on all colors. If you want a bit more gloss from a paste wax try the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax or any of the Dodo Juice waxes. These options are applied by hand only but the exceptional gloss makes it well worth it.

I hand remove all of the excess product with a clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel. These towels are paint safe and help quickly remove the left over clay lube, polish, sealant, etc. I'd suggest getting about 5x - 10x of them.

Now step back and admire how awesome your vehicle looks. If you have any other questions please let me know!

Take care!

Greg @ DI
Appreciate 0
      12-27-2011, 11:07 PM   #1489
Envious Eric
Banned
United_States
13

 
Drives: nissan xterra, 335 soon
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: orange county, ca


Posts: 1,168
iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by schan View Post
I used the Yellow pad and 105 on the BMW but I still see the marks. What do you guys suggest as my next step?
are you stopping at the yellow and 105? if so, that is your problem. Thats a horrible combo to even think about stopping at because BOTH the compound and the pad are at the upper level on the aggressive scale!

try some power finish on a white pad (might have to use on a orange pad after the "yellow brick" pad since it leaves a ton of marring on its own. Then after that, use something like sf4000 or sf 4500 on a black pad.

what color BMW do you have? If you want some help, I live in Huntington Beach and wouldnt mind helping out one day for a bit
Appreciate 0
      12-27-2011, 11:59 PM   #1490
schan
Enlisted Member
0

 
Drives: 328 sport pkg wht/blk
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: los angeles


Posts: 38
iTrader: (0)

Thanks,

No, after yellow and 105, i went with the orange and 205. Perhaps I didn't apply enough pressure?

I have a White color car. Thanks for the offer, but I probably be won't have anytime coming up soon to work on it more.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Envious Eric View Post
are you stopping at the yellow and 105? if so, that is your problem. Thats a horrible combo to even think about stopping at because BOTH the compound and the pad are at the upper level on the aggressive scale!

try some power finish on a white pad (might have to use on a orange pad after the "yellow brick" pad since it leaves a ton of marring on its own. Then after that, use something like sf4000 or sf 4500 on a black pad.

what color BMW do you have? If you want some help, I live in Huntington Beach and wouldnt mind helping out one day for a bit
Appreciate 0
      12-28-2011, 12:13 AM   #1491
e90fun
('''\(;,,,;)/''')
35

 
e90fun's Avatar
 
Drives: AW 335i e90
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Diego, CA / Santa Rosa, CA


Posts: 1,683
iTrader: (14)

how do i get rid of a ball point pen ink stain?

i left it in my passenger seat over the weekend and it blew up and leaked all over the seat.
__________________
Stock 08` Alpine White E90 335i
Appreciate 0
      01-02-2012, 07:36 PM   #1492
thetedderbear
A weirdo but I'm real though
United_States
17

 
thetedderbear's Avatar
 
Drives: 2Fast2Furious
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Arr-can-saw


Posts: 627
iTrader: (1)

Ok so my question is a little. I do detailing jobs in my town, plus like to keep my own car in optimum condition, and am also looking at upgrading my garage area where I detail. What lighting setups do you professional detailers use, IE what kinds of lights, where are they placed, etc. Some suggestions for a good setup on a fairly small budget would be great. I have a stand with halogen lights on it already, I'm looking more at overhead lights, permanent stuff.
Thanks!
__________________
"When the fear of death outweighs the thrill of speed, brake"

Stuff - stuff - bits - things - stuff - stuff - parts - stuff
Appreciate 0
      01-02-2012, 07:52 PM   #1493
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor
United_States
53


 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY


Posts: 3,521
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacksonite View Post
there is a scratch size of a index finger on my door and i dont know how to fix it. i havent tried anything because i dont know what to try. any advice would be greatly appreciated.

You can try cleaning it with something gentle like a slightly damp microfiber towel or the 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover and a clean microfiber towel. If that doesn't do it and it's actually a scuff unfortunately I'm not aware of any quick fixes here that are going to make it look right again. When you scratch the clear coat it can often be polished down to look perfect again to the naked eye. With vinyl, plastic, rubber, leather, etc. you obviously don't have this option. Sorry I don't have a good answer for you here.

Greg @ DI
Appreciate 0
      01-02-2012, 07:55 PM   #1494
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor
United_States
53


 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY


Posts: 3,521
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheVision View Post
Thanks Greg...more great advice that I will for sure put to use. I have one other question...my seat material is leatherette, so I'm wondering what the best product would be for this material. I'm looking for something to clean and protect them.

Happy Holiday!
Glad to hear the information was so helpful. I would highly recommend the Leatherique Prestine Clean and Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil for the leatherette seats. It's a great cleaner and conditioner that helps preserve the leather.


Greg @ DI
Appreciate 0
      01-02-2012, 08:48 PM   #1495
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor
United_States
53


 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY


Posts: 3,521
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by zanth119 View Post
Hi Greg - earlier this year you helped me with a PC purchase and gave me some advice to get me off the ground and into the detailing enthusiast world, thank you, my E46 has been shining since!

Hoping I can pick your brain again. I ordered a Deep Sea Blue Metallic E91, and want to start off caring for the new ride on the right foot. I will have the dealer do their standard prep process (I know there's mixed reviews on this idea, but I live in cold climate and can't devote proper time to the car until the nice weather comes).

I'm fine with taking care of the interior, wheels, glass and exterior trim, questions revolve around the paint

First question

Is there anything I can do to maximize the dealer prep protection to last until the nice weather comes? Probably 8-10 weeks before I can do a full detail, and the car will be kept outside. Clay and polish really aren't an option (I really wish I had a huge garage!)

Second Question

What should I do for the first detail when weather allows? I'm assuming high level:

Wash
Clay (get rid of the dealer treatments and any interim contamination)
Polish (assuming a mild one with a low aggression pad)
Seal & Finish

I've been using the following process with my silver E46, and really do like the Zaino products/look

Polish - Menzerna Intensive Polish & ZPC
Seal/Gloss - Z2 Pro & Z6 layered 3 times
Finish - Z8

However would like to experiment with other products on the E91. which brings up the:

Third Question

What products would you recommend for:

Polish - What polish(es) and pad(s) would you recommend? (I currently have LC White, Orange, Yellow Pads for the PC 7424XP)

Seal - I've been applying Z2 Pro by hand, and like the easy application. I'm fine with applying other products with similar ease by hand, but would like to remove with the PC. Any seal and pad ideas? Also, could I use the same to remove Z2 Pro on the E46?

Wax - I haven't been using wax on the E46, how much visual reward vs longevity vs time invested would a coat of wax give me (the car will always be outside)? The E46 will continue to be my favorite child, but I still want the E91 to look decent, though don't want to slave over it to the same degree.

Gloss/Finish - what looks good with a darker blue?

Thanks for the input, really appreciate your help!
Glad to help and I'm happy to help again!

1.) I would personally rather the dealership did nothing than their prep. Generally dealerships use products that look great and protect for days maybe a few weeks best case, so it's not worth it for the harm they are almost guaranteed to do. I know it's cold but maybe just do an ONR wash (Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR)), clay and protect with the Optimum Opti-Seal & Free Yellow Foam Applicator. This process would be so much safer and more complete. If you have to skip the clay you should still be relatively fine since it's new. If you don't have access to a garage maybe you could borrow a friends for a few hours. If you still let them do their process I would still recommend the Opti-Seal but for maximum durability you'll want to strip off whatever they put on first.

2. and 3.) Wash with the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash to remove any old protection. When washing I would also recommend using the CarPro Iron X Iron Remover to help deep clean the surface.

Next use the clay bar as you suggested and polish. Upgrading your polishes would be a huge help here. The Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 and Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 is one of my favorite combos. Since the car is new you may be able to just use the M205 but if you want results closer to perfection the M105 will be a big help. I'd apply the M105 with an orange pad and the M205 with a white pad.

Afterward apply the Zaino sealants with a blue pad to protect and enhance the shine. Is it worth layering a wax on afterward it's really a personal opinion. Some sealants look fantastic on their own but some owners want the deepest gloss possible and more protection so a wax is helpful to them. If interested the Dodo Juice Blue Velvet Hard Wax is an amazing wax but if you need to save some money the Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax is an outstanding value.

I hand remove all of these products with a CLEAN microfiber towel like the DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel or the DI Microfiber Ultra Plush Two Sided Towel.

If I missed any of your questions please let me know!

Greg @ DI
Appreciate 0
      01-02-2012, 08:55 PM   #1496
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor
United_States
53


 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY


Posts: 3,521
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by schan View Post
Thanks,

No, after yellow and 105, i went with the orange and 205. Perhaps I didn't apply enough pressure?

I have a White color car. Thanks for the offer, but I probably be won't have anytime coming up soon to work on it more.
Eric is the man to see if you want it fixed right. If you want to do it yourself you'll probably need another pad and polish combo that is lighter. The M105 and yellow pad is going to leave some serious haze! I would probably follow up with the M105 and an orange pad and then the M205 and a white pad. In the future if you need a lot of correcting power try the Surbuf R Series MicroFingers Buffing Pads and the M105 so you get less haze and more cutting power. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI
Appreciate 0
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:23 PM.




e90post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST