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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > My zenclosure subwoofer build



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      02-17-2012, 08:15 AM   #45
PiZauL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pebkac View Post
Could you go into more detail about wiring and the technical aspect of this install?
There really isn't much to it. If you have Technic's wiring harness, you plug that into your OEM L7 AMP, and connect the original harness to it. You plug the included LOC (line out converter) to the Technic harness and run the RCA cables from the LOC to the amplifier that will be driving the subwoofer. Run the remote wire from the Technic harness to the ampifier as well. Then hookup the power and ground to their respective places on the car. At this point all the wiring is pretty much set. Hook everything up to the amp except the ground. Then prepare the enclosure (drill a small hole in enclosure to run speaker wire, hook it up to the driver, mount it, pull speaker cable nice and tight, seal hole). Place everything in position, hook up the speaker power wire (keep ground unplugged) from the subwoofer driver to the amplifier as you want to tune the amplifier to the recommended spec in the manual. Hook the ground up to the amp so it is now recieving power and use a multimeter to confirm the amplifier is getting 12v of power. Make sure your head unit EQ settings are flat and then play a 50hz sine wave at 3/4 volume (can download this online and put it on your mp3 player or cd) and raise the gain on the amplifer to the target voltage for the nom. impedance of the driver connected to the amplifier. In my case since I wanted to bump 500w RMS to it, I purchased the 2ohm model (12w3v3-2) and 31.6V was the target AC Voltage the amplifier manual was calling for. After that hookup the negative speaker wire from the subwoofer driver to the amp so it now officially is getting power and is ready to bump. Sit in car, and enjoy the deep bass.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Yo-Hi.Red.Devil View Post
Do you have to play it that loud to hear the bass in the cabin? At what % do you think the video is at, to get all that vibration? I want to do the same thing but not at the point of making everything rattle just to hear the bass.
Nope, you do not have to play it that loud to the hear the bass in the cabin. I had it at 100% volume to show the power of the driver. I want to say that you can start hearing good punchy bass anywhere past the 40% volume mark without any rattles. With my new license plate frame and roof rack off, there is significantly less rattles at 100% volume.
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      02-17-2012, 08:27 AM   #46
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What are you eq settings on the deck and amp?

Why did you choose a w3 over a w6? I'm thinking about a single 10w6


Quote:
Originally Posted by PiZauL View Post
There really isn't much to it. If you have Technic's wiring harness, you plug that into your OEM L7 AMP, and connect the original harness to it. You plug the included LOC (line out converter) to the Technic harness and run the RCA cables from the LOC to the amplifier that will be driving the subwoofer. Run the remote wire from the Technic harness to the ampifier as well. Then hookup the power and ground to their respective places on the car. At this point all the wiring is pretty much set. Hook everything up to the amp except the ground. Then prepare the enclosure (drill a small hole in enclosure to run speaker wire, hook it up to the driver, mount it, pull speaker cable nice and tight, seal hole). Place everything in position, hook up the speaker power wire (keep ground unplugged) from the subwoofer driver to the amplifier as you want to tune the amplifier to the recommended spec in the manual. Hook the ground up to the amp so it is now recieving power and use a multimeter to confirm the amplifier is getting 12v of power. Make sure your head unit EQ settings are flat and then play a 50hz sine wave at 3/4 volume (can download this online and put it on your mp3 player or cd) and raise the gain on the amplifer to the target voltage for the nom. impedance of the driver connected to the amplifier. In my case since I wanted to bump 500w RMS to it, I purchased the 2ohm model (12w3v3-2) and 31.6V was the target AC Voltage the amplifier manual was calling for. After that hookup the negative speaker wire from the subwoofer driver to the amp so it now officially is getting power and is ready to bump. Sit in car, and enjoy the deep bass.





Nope, you do not have to play it that loud to the hear the bass in the cabin. I had it at 100% volume to show the power of the driver. I want to say that you can start hearing good punchy bass anywhere past the 40% volume mark without any rattles. With my new license plate frame and roof rack off, there is significantly less rattles at 100% volume.
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      02-17-2012, 08:44 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pebkac View Post
What are you eq settings on the deck and amp?

Why did you choose a w3 over a w6? I'm thinking about a single 10w6
I followed that guide that is posted up in this section (Logic 7 optimal EQ settings) and tweaked it a bit.

Sub Amp:
LPF: 75hz
Bass Boost: Off

Deck:
80hz 0
200hz +2
500hz +2
1khz +3
2khz -2
5khz -1
10khz +4

BASS +4
TREB +1
FADER +2
S-VOL 1
LOGIC7 = MUSIC

I choose the W3 because it was within my price range and was looking for a 12" speaker that can take 500w RMS. Didn't really want any more power than this. Read great things about W3's so I just went for it, got it for $171.
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      02-17-2012, 11:42 AM   #48
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This is VERY helpful.

Were these your deck settings before the sub? If not, do you recall or know what they were?


Quote:
Originally Posted by PiZauL View Post
I followed that guide that is posted up in this section (Logic 7 optimal EQ settings) and tweaked it a bit.

Sub Amp:
LPF: 75hz
Bass Boost: Off

Deck:
80hz 0
200hz +2
500hz +2
1khz +3
2khz -2
5khz -1
10khz +4

BASS +4
TREB +1
FADER +2
S-VOL 1
LOGIC7 = MUSIC

I choose the W3 because it was within my price range and was looking for a 12" speaker that can take 500w RMS. Didn't really want any more power than this. Read great things about W3's so I just went for it, got it for $171.
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      02-17-2012, 01:16 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pebkac View Post
This is VERY helpful.

Were these your deck settings before the sub? If not, do you recall or know what they were?
Glad to help

This is what I had before, ones in red are the ones I changed:
80hz -2
200hz 0
500hz +2
1khz +3
2khz -2
5khz -1
10khz +4

BASS +10
TREB +5
FADER +2
S-VOL 1
Aux-In Level 3 (center position)
LOGIC7 = MUSIC
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      02-19-2012, 12:32 PM   #50
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Nice setup. I am new to the E90 world and starting my research. So posting so I can come back to this.
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      02-21-2012, 09:49 AM   #51
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Quote:
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Nice setup. I am new to the E90 world and starting my research. So posting so I can come back to this.
Have fun! Plenty of info on this forum.
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      10-08-2013, 08:24 AM   #52
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Blew out the sub? :(

So, I have had the 12W3V3 since 11/01/11, and I think yesterday it blew up on me. I have never personally heard a blown sub, but I am assuming the voice coil is fried? Plan on pulling it today to investigate.

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      10-27-2013, 07:49 PM   #53
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Ended up picking up a Pioneer TS-W3002D4, thing is a monster. Sounds pretty good, but def could use some extra power. Going to get a higher power amp and feed it 900w and while i'm at it put it into a corner enclosure. Will add some pics as I start changing it up.


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      10-30-2013, 11:11 AM   #54
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Sexy! I'm going the same route. Although, I want to use my 10w7!
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