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adjmcloon's Avatar Mechatronics sleeve e90 330i DIY?
adjmcloon
03-09-2009
Has anyone diy'd the mechatronics sleeve replacement for their 2006 330i? The dealer is wanting $700, however parts are only a few bucks. From the realoem diagram it seems easy but I'm unsure about access to the sleeve above the...
  #22  
By Juiced46 on 03-21-2011, 05:14 PM
Reuse the old fluid. Then just top it off with new stuff. Its probably going to need around 2-3 liters.

I will give you a quick DIY.

Drain fluid into a clean pan.
Remove all of the transmission pan bolts. Leave 2 in there but loose so the pan doesnt fall right off.
Remove the 2 E Torx bolts that go from the Exhaust to the bracket on the trans.
On the outside of the mechatronics, where the harness plugs into it. Turn the lock counter clockwise to release it. I usually just use a long extension to push on it, its difficult to get your hand in there.
Once its unlocked, turn it fully and remove harness from sleeve.
Once pan is remove, looking towards the back of the trans, you will see a plastic lock facing down. Pull this down to unlock the sealing sleeve. If you put slight pressure on the outside of the sealing sleeve (from the case side) it will make it easier to unlock.
Now you can pull the sleeve free from the trans, however you will not be able to fully remove it from the vehicle yet, its tight.
Take a pry bar and pry on the passside of the trans (this is ok you wont break anything)
Pry it towards the driver side while trying to remove the sleeve from the vehicle (if you have AWD its tight, you will understand why you need to pry it). This will give you just enough room to remove it from the vehicle.
Lube new sleeve o rings with trans fluid.
Pry trans again to place sleeve into place. There is a tab on the inside of the sleeve, this needs to be facing straight down.
Once in place you should feel it push in.
Take a small pry bar and apply gentle pressure on the outside of the sealing sleeve. This will be just enough to push the lock back into place. If you do not pry on it, the lock most likely will not go in and you will be fighting it.
Reconnect harness to sleeve. Turn clockwise, you will feel it click in once fully seated.
Reinstall pan with new gasket.
If you have AWD remove the 4 bolts that hold the driveshaft to the Tcase. Becareful it doesnt swing down and smack you in the head.
Remove fill plug on driver side of trans.
Fill trans until fluid comes out of the fill hole.
Reinstall fill plug.
Start vehicle and shift through the gears a few times.
Leave vehicle running, remove fill plug and fill it again until fluid comes out.
Reinstall plug for the last time. Clean off residual oil and you are done
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  #23  
By woodpecka on 03-21-2011, 05:44 PM
I saw a spot of yellow fluo oil under the car, near the AT but my SA doesn't think this is this issue.

Do you think it is?
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  #24  
By Juiced46 on 03-21-2011, 06:36 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodpecka View Post
I saw a spot of yellow fluo oil under the car, near the AT but my SA doesn't think this is this issue.

Do you think it is?

Did it look dry or wet?

It could be just some leftover cosmoline from when the car was new. The whole car is coated with it when it gets shipped over, and usually its all over the underbody of the car. If its wet, its probably trans fluid. If not its probably the cosmoline. Usually the trans fluid would be darker in color.
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  #25  
By firechicken99 on 03-21-2011, 06:58 PM
if you get under the car and look up on the back passenger side of the tranny you can see the tube coming out from the Mechatronic seal.... If that is the culprit you will see residue most likely covered in oil on it, especially the bottom
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  #26  
By woodpecka on 03-21-2011, 07:14 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Juiced46 View Post
Did it look dry or wet?

It could be just some leftover cosmoline from when the car was new. The whole car is coated with it when it gets shipped over, and usually its all over the underbody of the car. If its wet, its probably trans fluid. If not its probably the cosmoline. Usually the trans fluid would be darker in color.
It's hard to say, as it was very cold outside when this appeared on the snow. When I kicked the snow, the trace disappeared and nothing staid on the floor so I would say "dry".

I will ask the dealer to look at it Wednesday when the car will be on the lift.
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  #27  
By firechicken99 on 03-21-2011, 11:50 PM
Juiced... That covered the jist of what i had seen.. Thanks, If i only had a lift and a garage at home
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  #28  
By firechicken99 on 03-22-2011, 08:21 AM
Just got quoted $780, and thats REUSING my old pan....
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  #29  
By Juiced46 on 03-22-2011, 06:36 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by firechicken99 View Post
Just got quoted $780, and thats REUSING my old pan....
Where are you located?
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  #30  
By firechicken99 on 03-22-2011, 06:47 PM
Suffolk LI.. New York
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  #31  
By bds on 03-22-2011, 11:29 PM
firechicken99

are they replacing all the bolts on that quote? I got a quote here for around 650 + taxes. (no pan)

24 bolts @$5 bucks a pop. = $120
2 liters of tranny fluid at $36/ liter

I dont know if they are trying to screw me or not. The SIB says reuse bolts and 1 liter max. Maybe since mine is an 06 they wanna just replace the bolts?
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  #32  
By firechicken99 on 03-23-2011, 10:00 AM
Sounds about right. Got my receipt. No Bolts. 4.5 hrs labor at 127 an hour = $5xx. Parts were 150 including a 47 dollar pan gasket, 28 dollar mech seal, 2 X 1/2 liter tranny oil at 26 a piece, and the drain plug which must be replaced.

Paid 780 after tax

Personally.... I dont see how they get 4.5 hours labor. But by the time they tack on an hour for "diagnosis", the work, and taking the time to properly (i hope for 127/hr) fill, check, and refill tranny fluid, its plausible.
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  #33  
By bds on 03-23-2011, 10:58 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by firechicken99 View Post
Sounds about right. Got my receipt. No Bolts. 4.5 hrs labor at 127 an hour = $5xx. Parts were 150 including a 47 dollar pan gasket, 28 dollar mech seal, 2 X 1/2 liter tranny oil at 26 a piece, and the drain plug which must be replaced.

Paid 780 after tax

Personally.... I dont see how they get 4.5 hours labor. But by the time they tack on an hour for "diagnosis", the work, and taking the time to properly (i hope for 127/hr) fill, check, and refill tranny fluid, its plausible.


wow on the labour!!
heres my quote

Transmission Connector $27.00
Sleeve
Pan Gasket $60.00

Bolts $120.00($5.00 Each, this service requires 24)
I don't know if they have to replace these

Fluid $72.00($36.00 Each, this service requires 2L)
the SI B says only one bottle
Misc. $11.00

Labour $375.00
Total $665.00 plus tax

And if I need a Transmission Oil Pan $456.00 for a total of $1,121.00 plus tax

I guess the fluid only comes in 1/2 liters, thats why they said 2.

Question. Was your car leaking, cause mine is not at all. They just "saw" this while doing an oil change. I'm not sure if the are just trying to squeeze $700 out of me. I was gonna wait till warmer weather to go under the car to see if it actually is leaking. But i worry cause it is dealing with the transmission. Maybe i'll just suck it up and get it done.

I called another dealer, and they said if its not leakin, dont do anything
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  #34  
By firechicken99 on 03-23-2011, 11:15 AM
I agree. Mine had smaller than a penny drop occasionally. until i got home last week from a week out of state. i pull out of driveway to find a nice thin, 5" wide by 6 foot long spot of fluid where the car was (slight incline) after putting it on ramps i found fluid dripping from the rear of the pan, off of the pan bolts. I noticed the "sleeve" and it was covered in a film of fluid and dirt.

At the time i didnt know everything i do now about the sleeve leaking etc. The pan bolts are imho BS. BMW did my service and didnt change these (on a 335i mind you, other models may vary).

That price for the pan is ridiculous. Its 250 online NIB AND they have to take the pan down to do this service anyways so shouldnt be extra labor. Maybe that was a price to do the pan separately?

If i were you i would go to your local BMW dealer and tell them that its not leaking, but you noticed residue around the sleeve and want them to check the tranny fluid level, and top off if necessary. might cost you a bill or two, but that covers your piece of mind on the fluid levels. Unless you see a big leak like mine id follow the old rule....

If it aint broke dont fix it!!

However, it is definitely something to MONITOR
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  #35  
By bds on 03-23-2011, 12:47 PM
Ya the price for the pan is ridiculous!, $456 just for the pan. (mind you i'm in canada but really!?!?!? I'm sure its just for the pan (the quote had labour separate) i don't think they are charging labour since its already off. I think i'm just gonna watch for leaks for now. Maybe jack it up on the weekend to see for myself.

There's no way to check tranny fluid ourselves eh? STUPID IMO

maybe i'll park it on an incline for a day or something, everything ive seen on posts lead me to believe it leaks out more when parked on an incline (forward up?)
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  #36  
By firechicken99 on 03-23-2011, 01:32 PM
well yeah. The sleeve is on the Rear of the tranny facing backwards. So if its leaking and you park the car facing uphill, depending on the leak, its kind of like having a straw sticking out the back of your tranny!

nope we cant check fluid level. only by running vehicle, opening fill hole, seeing if any seeps out, and adding more if it doesnt. Talking about going old school on a ridiculously electronic car........


If you get it done i would research the bolts with your model car. Thats a chunk of change right there.
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  #37  
By Juiced46 on 03-23-2011, 05:16 PM
The bolts depends on if it has the smaller T27 or the larger T40. The T27 tend to strip when removing and can be very rusted or corroded. My dealer sells them for around $3 a piece. Most of the time, we do not replace the bolts unless it is absolutely needed.

No need to replace the pan either.

Firechicken- I can do the repair for you for much much cheaper if you want to drive to CT
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  #38  
By firechicken99 on 03-23-2011, 05:25 PM
Unfortunately a Day late, just got the car back today. 500ish wonderful dollars of labor. I need a garage lol.

besides Tolls and gas would add at least 80 bux lol
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  #39  
By bmwpk on 02-26-2012, 02:08 PM
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Anyone know if when you changed the mechatronics tab on the transmission did you have trouble with the white locking tab? the tab is so tight with the new gaskets/sleeve? i've measure the distance and i can get the sleeve pushed within 2 mm of the connector but still no good? i think i got enough distance on the sleeve especially compared to the old gasket. The old gasket still locks up if i put it back. The new one wont lock up? Any advice? i am lining up the pins correctly and doing everything on those two pdf's from zf/bmw.
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  #40  
By Juiced46 on 02-26-2012, 02:27 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwpk View Post
Anyone know if when you changed the mechatronics tab on the transmission did you have trouble with the white locking tab? the tab is so tight with the new gaskets/sleeve? i've measure the distance and i can get the sleeve pushed within 2 mm of the connector but still no good? i think i got enough distance on the sleeve especially compared to the old gasket. The old gasket still locks up if i put it back. The new one wont lock up? Any advice? i am lining up the pins correctly and doing everything on those two pdf's from zf/bmw.

I do not understand, what do you mean the new gasket "locks up or wont lock up"?

If the white tab isnt locking into place, then the mechatronics sealing sleeve isnt pushed in far enough. You need to lube the O rings on the sleeve with transmission fluid. On the sleeve there is a small tab inside of it (inside the circle part), this needs to point straight down, if it doesnt you will never get it into place. If you have it in the correct position, you need to push the sleeve in harder. Use a small pry bar to put slight force on the sleeve push it towards the transmission while pushing up on the white locking tab at the same time. You have to give it some force sometimes for it to go in.
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  #41  
By bmwpk on 02-27-2012, 06:56 PM
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thanks Juiced46. I had to get a helper to push the tab while i used both hands to push the sleeve with the pry bar. i had to use vaseline to get it further in and that seemed to make it easier than the transmission fluid. I had the distance to the transmission right but the sleeve needed the constant pressure to allow the tab to go in. Wasnt fun but with helper it worked out fine. Job complete!
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  #42  
By john_e90bimmer on 04-13-2014, 09:58 AM
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I just finished replacing the mechtronics sleeve, here are a few of my notes to maybe help others. The E Torx size is E11 for the exhaust bracket. You must remove the exhaust bracket to be able to get access to a few of the screws on the pan. Unlocking the electrical connector which passes through the mechtronics sleeve required a bit a leverage, fingers wouldn't do it. I use a pair of 90 degree long needle nose plies to start turning the tab counter clockwise. Note, the electrical connector lock nut only turns about 60 degrees to be fully unlocked. Once the electrical connector is removed, you unlock the sleeve from inside the trans. You will see a white tab which need to lightly push a lock tab then pull down to unlock the sleeve. Use the 90 degree long needle nose plies to just pull the old one out with ease. To put the new one in, lube the outside of the sleeve with trans fluid, align it and push with your fingers -it goes in fairly easy. I then used a hockey puck to apply even pressure over the face of the sleeve and relocking with the white tab was very easy.
The mectronics attachments found in this thread are spot on. The Bentley manual is no help with this procedure.
It wasn't too difficult, if you've done your own oil and coolant, you should be well prepared. Took me about 2.5 hours, clean up then took another 30-60 minutes.
I did this procedure with the car on jack stands in the garage and it wasn't a big deal.

One more thing, sorry about resurrecting an old thread.
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