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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - E90 Oil Change (with Pics! - 56K Beware)



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      11-27-2011, 03:38 PM   #309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatbush View Post


I tried to loosen the square oil filler cap but it would not rotate. I did notice a separate plastic part located at one corner of the cap which was held in place with a steel pin. I'm not sure if this is a locking mechanism, but I did not want to force anything, so I will wait for an answer.

Below are two photos of the oil filler cap and the plastic part in one corner held in place by a steel pin. Any help describing how to remove the filler cap will certainly be appreciated.
That corner stays attached and the filler cap flips up from there. It's just a hinge.
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      11-27-2011, 09:11 PM   #310
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Originally Posted by hsantiago335 View Post
I recently did my oil change after BMW dealer did it under the maintenance program. so i ended doing the research on the mileage intervals and i decided that i would change the oil at every 7500miles, surprising the oil was still pretty dirty, as well i cut open the oil filter to read it and i found some little flacks of metal but i think its normal. I'm thinking of running Mobil 0w-40 oil instead and see how the holds up with the 7500miles DIY was a great help
This is the very reason that the hyper engineers at BMW eliminated the dip stick, so that you can't have a visual and change the oil just because it is BROWN and it looks DIRTY. Even though I do not believe in changing engine oil on an annual basis as prescribed by the CBS for low mileage owners (less than 10K miles/year), but I do not agree that just because the oil looks BROWN; then it is DIRTY and it must be changed. BMW oil rating of LL04 addresses to the issue of high sulfur content of unleaded gasoline in the US market so it is safe to follow the CBS based of oil intervals for the average drivers (25K miles/year). Low mileage owners are screwed by BMW since the CBS engine oil service intervals do not take into consideration for low mileage cars, and it is possible for engine oil not be changed for more than 12 months intervals if you drive less than 10K miles/year.
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Last edited by hookah66; 11-27-2011 at 09:19 PM.
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      11-27-2011, 09:43 PM   #311
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What I've read is that LL04 oils have less TBN additive and need to be changed more often if there is a high Sulphur content in the fuel. Otherwise the LL04 oil may become acidic over time. LL01 oil is recommended by BMW for petrol engines using higher sulphur content fuel and long oil drain intervals.
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      11-28-2011, 04:31 PM   #312
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What's up Forum! For the ones that are shopping around and looking at doing your own oil change here are some facts: (just did mine)
Walmart
-$45 for 7qt of Mobil 1 Synthetic Extended Performance 5W-30 (car has 60K)
Pepboys
-$12 for oil Fram Oil Filter part# CH10075
-$6 Oil Filter Wrench by RiteFit part# A261 - 86mm x 16 flute

Total DIY: $63.00 (OIL CHANGE with WRENCH)

The WRENCH is a good deal all these places trying to sell it for $15 to $30 when they all get it from China from the same manufacture for $1 BUCK...


Oil change is pretty simple and the DYI on here is on point. I had mechanics quote me from $80 to $120, save the money and do it yourself...

Cheers!

Last edited by e70msportmia; 11-30-2011 at 08:16 PM.
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      11-29-2011, 04:15 AM   #313
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Any kind of synthetic should do the trick. Actually on the 2008 328xi, it says "castrol oil" RIGHT on the oil refill cap. If you check the BMW service manual, it shows you can run 0w-30, 5w-30 and 10w-30. The "w" range is for temperature. Whereas a 5w runs down to a -20 below degrees F, a 10W will only go to about a -4 degrees F. If you shop around on the 5w-30 synthetic, you can usually find it for 4-5 dollars a quart on sale. I shop around at autozone, advance auto or pep boys and many times they will include an excellent premium filter as well with 5 quarts of oil (mail in rebate usually involved). I have owned a DOZEN cars in my lifetime and I can tell you this.. THE CAR BY FAR WAS THE EASIEST CAR I HAVE EVER WORKED ON FOR AN OIL CHANGE! The only thing I would recommend is that you purchase an oil filter cap removal tool, 30.00 OEM at getbmwparts.com or less if you purchase an after market one on ebay or somewhere else. It is an odd, very large size cap and will make your life easier. The bolt on the oil pan is 17mm.

I also did an spark plug change on the car at the same time (again THE EASIEST CHANGE ever done for plugs), used the NGK plugs recommended at Realoem.com, gapped them to .044 (bosch are rated at .040) and then torqued them all to 30nm. One thing I would double check is to see if the CAP within the rubber boot direct ignition is corroded. I found all six of my had quite a bit of corrosion on them so I used a 240 grit sandpaper on a very small flat head screwdriver to clean it off, thus making better contact. Kills me that the dealer wants 150.00 for an oil change and 500.00 for a spark plug change on a double project that takes less than two hours to perform!
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      12-24-2011, 03:14 AM   #314
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which way do we rotate to open the oil filter cap? clock-wise or counter c w? Either way, I can't open it....
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      12-24-2011, 12:00 PM   #315
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Counter clockwise for the filter cap. Look for a mark overlapping the cap and housing, or place one yourself, so that you re-tighten down to the same point.

Here's the list of approved oils for our US cars (with gasoline engines.) You can find them on sale also, best to plan ahead, so why risk using a non-approved oil. Weight does make a difference, I found the M1 0W40 idles smoother in the hot Phoenix summers, and a thinner 0W30 would be better in colder climates. 10w-30 is not an approved weight, period.

http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Conte...ngineOils.aspx

Last edited by AlanAZ; 12-26-2011 at 11:40 PM.
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      12-25-2011, 11:46 PM   #316
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Oil filter cap removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanAZ View Post
Counter clockwise for the filter cap. Look for a mark overlapping the cap and housing, or place one yourself, so that you re-tighten down to the same point.

Here's the list of approved oils for our US cars (with gasoline engines.) You can find them on sale also, best to plan ahead, so why risk using a non-approved oil. Weight does make a difference, I found the M1 0W40 idles smoother in the hot Phoenix summers, and a thinner 0W30 would be better in colder climates. 10w-30 is not an approved weight.

http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Conte...ngineOils.aspx
Thanks a lot!

Can we remove the oil filter cap when there are still full level of oil in the engine? Is there a risk that oil will spill out the moment the filter cap is opened?

Because I was not able to open the oil filter cap, so I had no choice but to change the oil but not the filter. I decide to try to open the cap again once I have the proper tool. But worry that oil will now completely spill out from the top.

thanks
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      12-26-2011, 11:24 PM   #317
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Quote:
Can we remove the oil filter cap when there are still full level of oil in the engine? Is there a risk that oil will spill out the moment the filter cap is opened?
No, you can change the filter without draining the oil in the sump. Dead easy on this car.

Be sure to oil the new filter (wet all the filter material with new oil before installing.) There is a new rubber o-ring for the top and bottom of filter cap, note exactly where the top one is, it can it installed one slot higher, but doesn't work right there. Drain the old filter and oil the new one on your oil collection container.
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      02-02-2012, 12:35 PM   #318
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brilliant thread i will be doing my own oil from now
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      02-09-2012, 04:31 PM   #319
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seems really use full but i'm a little rubish and cant see the pictures.
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      02-14-2012, 09:51 PM   #320
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Costco has 6qt box for $25. limit of 3 boxes per customer.
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      03-03-2012, 11:25 AM   #321
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Hi,

Shouldn't the rubber o-rings also be lubricated with oil. Doing oil changes on a Passat and Honda I had, the o-rings were applied with oil. The idea was that, when your reapply the filter, the rubber doesn't stick or flex as the oil filter is being turned. The Passat was the same where the o-rings fit into a groove.
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      03-06-2012, 03:05 PM   #322
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Great Write-Up

Ok, so many people have commented on this since its origination, but better late than never. Very good article I have a 2007 335i, I just purchased back in December. I put about 5,000 miles on it and the service said oil change was due, so since I have changed oil on all the cars I ever owned, I did it myself. Easy change. Only pain was getting that oil filter cap off. That was rough. Then both O-Rings were a bit of a challenge, but no big deal. This article paired with the one on how to reset the service light was a great combo. Cant believe they didn't design idrive so that you could reset it, but it was easy enough. My only comment would be that I WILL be ordering one of the filter cap wrenches next time. I have a pliers type that I used, and it did mar up the cap just a bit but no biggie. Like I said, Ill be ordering a filter cap wrench for next time. Again thanks for the write up.

I am new to the forums, but have spent alot of time reading and searching here. I previously owned a 97 5 series and a 89 5 series. Glad to be back in a BMW and I must say that my 2007 335i is my dream car. I am loving it. It will be a permanent staple in my garage.


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      03-10-2012, 11:05 PM   #323
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This thread made it dead simple. Grab an adjustable oil filter wrench if you don't have the cartridge cap tool to get to the filter.
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      03-22-2012, 08:05 AM   #324
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Has anyone ever had a problem with the car shutting off because the oil filter that was used was aftermarket?

I have had my car in the shop for the past few weeks because last time that i picked it up from the bmw dealership, it just would stay running. The dealership says that who ever changed my oil and the oil filter had used a aftermarket filter. The aftermarket filter has fallen apart after a while and that all of the filter parts have ended up in my engine causing it to shut the car off. Is that possible? or am i getting a run around by the dealership? Or is it possible that the mechanic screwed up my car?
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      04-13-2012, 10:12 AM   #325
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Great write up. Thanks a lot.
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      04-14-2012, 11:22 AM   #326
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Just got Mobil 1 0W40 form Advance Auto online, 6 quarts for $36.99 with pick at the store. Basicaly got 6 quarts for the price of 5 had I bought the oil in the store.

Really easy oil change the 2nd time around. Oil Filter Wrench I showed earlier in this thread from NAPA worked fine. Took less than 1/2 hour and five minutes of that was spent getting it up on the Rhino Ramps.

Pretty easy car to change oil. Total cost a little over $50 when you include tax on the oil and the filter. Filter was around $13 at the dealer.

Doing mine every 7500 - 8000 miles. Mark it for 7500, but always go a little over, but definitely done before 8000.

Need to lose some weight though to get under the car to remove drain plug when up on ramps.
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      05-09-2012, 02:53 AM   #327
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One question, after doing the oil change, does the car automatically know how long until the next oil change? Or do you need to set it. If you need to set it, does anyone know how long to set it for? And how would I do so?
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      05-09-2012, 04:10 AM   #328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egtlover74 View Post
I have never tried to change oil myself so I may sound dumb but help me with this question. How much torque do you need on tightening the drain bolt? What about oil filter? Should the oil filter tightened by hand? What do you do with the old engine oil?
Service Manual says 25 NM for both the Oil pan bolt and the oil filter cover.
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      05-20-2012, 11:52 AM   #329
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Any idea on how to reset the sensor once you change the oil ?
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      05-20-2012, 04:59 PM   #330
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Any idea on how to reset the sensor once you change the oil ?
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