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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > V1 hardwiring through fusebox



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      03-12-2012, 02:28 AM   #441
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wow! just answered all my questions and concerns! thank you so much! such a big help! luv this forum!
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      03-25-2012, 11:38 PM   #442
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I did it today. I got the mini ATM from autozone and the hardwire kit from eBay. Total about 15 bucks vs 100 that I payed for hardwiring my last car.

Im having a problem though. After a short drive I added electrical tape to the connection of the hardwiring kit and the fuse tap. Now it will not turn off when I shut off the car completely. The HomeLink will only work with the car on but the radar stays on. I guess I will give it a day or two and see but I would like to hear if anyone has seen anything like this.

I do have a 10 amp fuse for the radar and the 5 that was there previously. They were out of stock of the 1 amp fuses Ive seen recommended in different posts here.

THANKS!
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      03-27-2012, 12:08 PM   #443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmusignac View Post
.... After a short drive I added electrical tape to the connection of the hardwiring kit and the fuse tap. Now it will not turn off when I shut off the car completely. The HomeLink will only work with the car on but the radar stays on. ....
I do have a 10 amp fuse for the radar and the 5 that was there previously. They were out of stock of the 1 amp fuses Ive seen recommended in different posts here. THANKS!
Congrats on the wiring.
RE the Radar Detector always on: sounds like you tapped into one of the fuse block circuits that doesn't ever shut off. Do you have the fuse block map/layout card to tell us what circuit you connected? (Don't just give us the circuit number, as BMW didn't use set numbers, they changed from year to year, from car to car - if you have the name of the circuit, or even the little icon, we can check it, and hopefully recommend a circuit number for a switched-power circuit like the cigarette lighter (see attached image for icon).

RE: The fuse amp size isn't all that important as these units use so little power. You really want a fuse, but mostly in case the power wire is accidentally shorted to ground so the fuse would blow to protect all the other stuff. And if the power wire is grounded, it will use more than your 10 amp, thereby melting the fuse.
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Last edited by Mech_Man; 11-11-2012 at 12:52 PM.
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      03-27-2012, 10:57 PM   #444
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Thanks Mech...

I did the fuse tap to the HomeLink... Its weird because the HomeLink will instantly stop working but the radar is still on... It doesnt make any sense I know but I tripled checked everything!

I did notice it will shut off by the time I come back... But I havent been able to stay by the car long enough to see when it actually happens... Appreciate your comments...
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      06-24-2012, 05:02 PM   #445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmusignac View Post
Thanks Mech...

I did the fuse tap to the HomeLink... Its weird because the HomeLink will instantly stop working but the radar is still on... It doesnt make any sense I know but I tripled checked everything!

I did notice it will shut off by the time I come back... But I havent been able to stay by the car long enough to see when it actually happens... Appreciate your comments...
My 09 e90 335d has two fuses for homelink. When I tried the first one with the tap with the tap, I could hear my alarm (I am installing a car alarm not a radar detector) click immediately, and the car was off, so I knew that was wrong. The second one I got no response from, so it should be the switched ignition wire (however the tap fit in very lightly so It could be a bad connection, I guess I will find out). Otherwise, if you have two fuses for your homelink like I do, use a DMM on the each until you find the one that has no power when the engine is off. I guess the homelink needs constant power and power when ignition is on, strange because it only works when ignition is on. But I cant think of any other reason for two fuses.

If your homelink is stopping working while the engine is on, maybe you have a bad tap -- it is sending the engine on signal down the RD line and not the homelink line.
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      09-27-2012, 08:28 AM   #446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bilbarstow View Post
OK - I said I'd post pics - here they are

First- mount the V1 where you want it on the windshield, I chose just left of the mirror. The telephone wire can then be easily tucked between the headliner and the windshield with just fingertips to push it in. Route it across the windshield to the right side until you get to the place where the headliner meets the separation with the A-pillar cover (point A in second pic).

Put your fingers behind the black rubber moulding at the door side of the A-pillar (at B) and push behind the seam from A - B. The headliner can be gently pulled out enough to open up the gap so that you can feed the telephone wire behind it. You can then push the headliner back in without showing any change or separation.

Route the telephone wire behind the black rubber moulding until you get down to the glove compartment (third pic). Fitting it between the gap is pretty simple.

Once you are in the glove compartment (pic 4), placing the Fuse Tap and the V1 Hardwire adapter is very straight forward. Crimp the Fuse Tap red wire to the red wire of the V1 Hardwire Adapter. I also used the fuse for PDC / Homelink (third from right side in the second row of fuses - see the fuse map card in the compartment for details). Remove the 5 amp fuse that is in that slot and place it in the A slot of the Fuse Tap. I used a 3 amp fuse for the V1 because that was the lowest one I had - even though the V1 only requires a 1 amp fuse. I have since replaced the 3 with a 1. For the black ground wire, crimp on an eyelet connector, and I drilled a hole in the metal brace and used a #8 bolt and nut to attach it, secured with some locktite.

I mounted the Hardwire adapter to the sidewall of the fuse compartment using the supplied velcro (pic 5). The phone wire plugs in to the Hardwire adapter in the main slot. If I choose to later, it will be very simple to add the Remote Display - just plug it in to the Accessory slot.

Very simple installation - Thanks very much to Josh49's original post for the initial info - I hope that this helps any of you considering doing this for yourself.
Should be getting my 9500ix today so hopefully I'll have some time to hardwire it to my car this weekend. Looks pretty straight forward...I may just remove the A-Pillar so that it's easier to tuck the wires in.
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      09-27-2012, 11:38 AM   #447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by virtualbong View Post
Should be getting my 9500ix today so hopefully I'll have some time to hardwire it to my car this weekend. Looks pretty straight forward...I may just remove the A-Pillar so that it's easier to tuck the wires in.
I've run wires up each side and removing the A-Pillar covers takes seconds and really simplifies running the direct-wire cables.
The most important concern is to be very gentle in prying off the screw cover-plates. The plastic is easy to scratch or break. Use a very small screwdriver and work them off very slowly. If you have something similar to a screwdriver, but plastic, that would be better.

With those off, remove the torx screws and the pillar cover is very easily removed, (and replacing is just as easy).

What I'd like to hear, is has anyone taped into the power wiring in the ceiling, say the cabin lights or sunroof motor circuits? If that cover was easily removable, it would save wiring all the way down to the fusebox.
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      09-30-2012, 12:40 AM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mech_Man View Post
I've run wires up each side and removing the A-Pillar covers takes seconds and really simplifies running the direct-wire cables.
The most important concern is to be very gentle in prying off the screw cover-plates. The plastic is easy to scratch or break. Use a very small screwdriver and work them off very slowly. If you have something similar to a screwdriver, but plastic, that would be better.

With those off, remove the torx screws and the pillar cover is very easily removed, (and replacing is just as easy).

What I'd like to hear, is has anyone taped into the power wiring in the ceiling, say the cabin lights or sunroof motor circuits? If that cover was easily removable, it would save wiring all the way down to the fusebox.
i tapped into the sunroof harness. depending on how big your hands are i say its pretty easy to pop down that whole unit. i just pull down on the headliner close to the windshield and pop those two clips and viola. no problems yet for me
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      12-15-2012, 01:28 PM   #449
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I just bought the mini fuse - its a round connection but the v1 connection end is square..? How did you guys get both ends to meet?
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