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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > M3 Tension Strut Rod Kit, hard to DIY install?



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      03-16-2012, 10:09 PM   #1
monkey_wrench
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M3 Tension Strut Rod Kit, hard to DIY install?

I just ordered a M3 Tension Strut Rod Kit from ECS Tuning, as I am getting vibrations from my current stock ones (88K miles on them)

How hard are they to change out? I looked but couldn't find a DIY
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      03-16-2012, 11:22 PM   #2
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Not too hard. Unbolt, swap out, torque subframe end, torque hub end with load on car. If you don't swap out springs, measure wheel center to fender beforehand and you can torque hub end by lifting the wheel to measure distance.

PM me your email and I can send you the TIS procedure & the torque spec.
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      03-17-2012, 01:41 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey_wrench View Post
I just ordered a M3 Tension Strut Rod Kit from ECS Tuning, as I am getting vibrations from my current stock ones (88K miles on them)

How hard are they to change out? I looked but couldn't find a DIY
Easy. Bring the wheel to normal ride height to avoid stresses particularly when reinstalling the bolts; R&R. While the wheel's positioned, torque accurately, please. Do not torque at other than normal ride height. Alignment needed whenever changing suspension parts.

What about the wishbone?
.

Last edited by CALWATERBOY; 03-17-2012 at 09:34 AM.
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      03-17-2012, 08:11 AM   #4
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Hey guys thanks for the info. I'm going to make this swap as well. My 325i has the stock sport suspension (sport package), do you know if the M3 thrust arms require the alignment set to M3 specs or to the regular E90 pre-LCI sport suspension specs.

Thanks in advance.
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      03-17-2012, 08:24 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENINTY
Hey guys thanks for the info. I'm going to make this swap as well. My 325i has the stock sport suspension (sport package), do you know if the M3 thrust arms require the alignment set to M3 specs or to the regular E90 pre-LCI sport suspension specs.

Thanks in advance.
Align to your cars original specs, front camber will show out if you did the lower control arms but it's nothing to worry about, and is to be expected.
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      03-17-2012, 03:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lulz_M3 View Post
Align to your cars original specs, front camber will show out if you did the lower control arms but it's nothing to worry about, and is to be expected.
Thanks. I need to keep the wheels aligned to the orginal specs because I get pretty good mileage out of a set of tires and drive an s-load of miles a year. I buy tires about every 13 months.
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      03-17-2012, 04:07 PM   #7
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Wow, I'm jealous of the amount of time you get to spend in your car. I often find myself taking the "back roads" because I just want to drive.
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      03-17-2012, 04:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaanBMW View Post
Not too hard. Unbolt, swap out, torque subframe end, torque hub end with load on car. If you don't swap out springs, measure wheel center to fender beforehand and you can torque hub end by lifting the wheel to measure distance.

PM me your email and I can send you the TIS procedure & the torque spec.
PM sent -Thanks!
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      03-17-2012, 10:40 PM   #9
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Several people PM'ed me for instructions. Also very useful is the PDF I posted here, it has torque specs and which parts you should replace, per TIS: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=661278
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. BMS Powerbox. Cyba scoops + charcoal delete. Wavetrac LSD
. M3: subframe bushings + sways + control arms. Meyle rear toe arms. M3 diff fr bushings
. BMW Perf: springs + v1 dampers
. Short Shifter + ZHP M weighted shift knob. CDV delete.
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      03-27-2012, 05:50 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaanBMW View Post
Not too hard. Unbolt, swap out, torque subframe end, torque hub end with load on car. you don't swap out springs, measure wheel center to fender beforehand and you can torque hub end by lifting the wheel to measure distance.

PM me your email and I can send you the TIS procedure & the torque spec.
Can you explain the part in red to me?
What is the purpose of the measuring?
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      03-27-2012, 09:16 AM   #11
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If you have the car on a lift or stands when you are installing the part, the suspension will "hang down" under its own weight causing the angle of the bushing/arm to be different than it would be when you are driving. If you torque the part in this position it can lead to the bushing being twisted wrong when you put the wheels back on and lower the car back down.

The purpose of measuring the ride height is so you know how much to raise the wheel so that you can torque the bolts in the correct position while having the car still on a lift/stands. You can accomplish this by putting a device under the wheel to elevate it back to normal ride position (according to your measurement). This gives you access to be able to tighten the bolts, but has the components in the correct angle. Otherwise, to accomplish this you'd have to lower the car onto the wheels and you'd only have like 2" of space to work in.

You can use a jack to do this (if on jack stands), or there is a support tower type thing you can use if your car is up on a lift. The name of the later escapes me at the moment.
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      03-27-2012, 11:35 PM   #12
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What he said ^.

It's very important for some of these bushings to be torqued in the "normal" vehicle position, which actually means with specified loads on the front seats, trunk & a full tank. Some can't be even accessed with the wheels on anyway so you have to simulate this load somehow.
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328i Sports Pkg, Michelin PSS on Staggered 18" OZ Ultraleggeras
. BMS Powerbox. Cyba scoops + charcoal delete. Wavetrac LSD
. M3: subframe bushings + sways + control arms. Meyle rear toe arms. M3 diff fr bushings
. BMW Perf: springs + v1 dampers
. Short Shifter + ZHP M weighted shift knob. CDV delete.
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      03-28-2012, 10:59 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaanBMW View Post
What he said ^.

It's very important for some of these bushings to be torqued in the "normal" vehicle position, which actually means with specified loads on the front seats, trunk & a full tank. Some can't be even accessed with the wheels on anyway so you have to simulate this load somehow.
Yeah, I'm lowered, there's no way to get to it without a lift.

Maybe on ramps though...
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