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      02-23-2012, 11:51 AM   #793
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Lucky you. At 20-30F ambient, a typical early morning temp here, it takes my oil temps about 15-20mins to move past 160F.
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      02-24-2012, 07:52 AM   #794
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So you are using this? The description make it sound as oil always flow through and therefore temp takes a while to rise in normal driving. Can you provide more info? does this fit in the original thermostat location?

Also it says 1450 sek, how much is that in USD?

sorry for so many questions!
I am not using this since i have 2 oil coolers and i rarely see 130C oil temps. I also live in a cold country and use the car in winter so i would have problem warming up the oil with this solution.

It fits in the stock thermostat location, you just replace the oem one with this one.
I know for a fact that without this a 135 stage 3 running GIAC with stock oem oil cooler would go into reduced power because of oil temps on attack round at the ring and with it after 5 laps temps were 140C max.
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      03-08-2012, 12:10 PM   #795
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For those with AT and water temps that are too high - apparently PWR with Advan Performance have developed an aluminium radiator that fits automatic transmissions and should help a lot with high water temps. See here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=543059&page=5

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      03-19-2012, 08:56 PM   #796
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Anybody have reports of N55s limping? I looked through the last several pages and couldn't find references. Granted, no everyone has their year listed, but many of you list Cobb, etc in your siglines, so I figured you were a N54 (Since Procede and JB4 haven't been out very long for N55).

My first track day won't be for a few months yet, so I'm thinking I'll do some suspension pods before tackling an oil cooler issue that hasn't proven to be an issue, yet.
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      03-21-2012, 11:54 AM   #797
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plunger

its like 225 USD, but not worth it.

do what i did, just relocate the spring from the front to the rear of the plunger, will do the same thing.

the plunger is in front of spring.

i am in florida, with dual oil coolers, its winter and like 80F so not an issue of warm up.

definitely recommend to all living in warm climate.
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      03-21-2012, 11:56 AM   #798
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My Next question: since i replaced the OEM POS oil cooler, i am thinking about using it as an auxillary radiator since MR 5 posted all the lines you can buy for like a 100 bux. just not sure where to put it with a ER dual setup?

has anyone done this or thought of this
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      03-21-2012, 12:04 PM   #799
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not familiar with the ER setup, are you using the other wheel well for anything? That'd be one option.
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      03-21-2012, 12:21 PM   #800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wdlfbio View Post
Anybody have reports of N55s limping? I looked through the last several pages and couldn't find references. Granted, no everyone has their year listed, but many of you list Cobb, etc in your siglines, so I figured you were a N54 (Since Procede and JB4 haven't been out very long for N55).

My first track day won't be for a few months yet, so I'm thinking I'll do some suspension pods before tackling an oil cooler issue that hasn't proven to be an issue, yet.
No reports I know of. I had my N55 at the track last fall and just this past weekend, no issues at all. My oil temps were street and my coolant temperature was actually about 30-40*F less than street. I am not chipped; stock intercooler too.
Brakes will be a bigger issue, get good fluid, SS lines, and possibly some pads.
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      03-22-2012, 06:57 PM   #801
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yeah, its a dual setup so i have a cooler in each wheel well.
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      04-26-2012, 11:38 AM   #802
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This thread has been very informative and also rises lots of doubts...

I've been reading the thread for quite a while and decided to join the forum to post a little contribution on my own experiment on the water temperature over regular driving.

It's been like 4 days that I've been monitoring in detail the water temp and this observations are very consistent, my 335i seems to "want" to run at coolant temperatures on the range of 99-103 C on regular driving, no matter the speed. I registered temps of 101 C driving steady @ 70mph on the Florida turnpike or regular street speeds peaking at 105C at lights or stops, haven't seen anything beyond that and drops inmediately to the average as soon the car is in motion.

However, the interesting thing is that when I push the car flooring it for a brief amount of time and getting reved up (just enough to not become the crazy guy on the street) the water temperature drops significantly. Driving on the highway (turnpike speed limit 70mph) to 55mph and sprint to 80 mph and drop to 70 mph, the indicator will show a drop in a matter of seconds from 102C to 94C and some times as low as 87C.. Temp will again raise to the average stated before as "old lady style driving" resumes. Same behavior at street speeds, with less temp drop but the combination of full throttle and higher revs reproduces it.

Any thoughts?

Seems there is some complex coolant management going on...

I'm taking the car to a hooked on driving event at homestead speedway and will keep an eye on the temp to report.

Last edited by mixman; 04-26-2012 at 11:57 AM.
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      04-26-2012, 05:01 PM   #803
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Your observations are spot on, for street driving. The profile changes drastically at the track where you sprint to 130 once or twice per lap followed by a series of low to mid-speed corners. Rinse and repeat for 25 minutes.

I see 2 options in your future:
1. You'll observe lower than street water temps on the main track straight due to increased airflow, followed by very high-temps at the esses(reduced airflow), but please do not look down to verify, focus on the turn itself. It's during those turns with reduced airflow that you'll come dangerously close to limp mode limits, usually within 5C.
2. If ambient temp is 90F+ none of this matters as the system gets saturated and water temps will stay at 105C+ all the time

Since you've read the thread you know of some preventive measures you can take to prep for the event, hope all goes well for you. Enjoy and let us know how it goes.
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      04-26-2012, 09:39 PM   #804
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N55 run a lot cooler.

I believe the water pump Is rpm based so at track running high revs and more air likely to run cooler water temp. Jb4 has a mAx cool mode too
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      04-26-2012, 09:57 PM   #805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilvosko View Post
N55 run a lot cooler.

I believe the water pump Is rpm based so at track running high revs and more air likely to run cooler water temp. Jb4 has a mAx cool mode too
Do you actually have any track experience? I'd love to see your data as to why N55s run cooler though and how that rpm-based water pump of yours does wonders at the track, please do share with us.

Last edited by mid-corner fun; 04-26-2012 at 10:05 PM.
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      04-27-2012, 12:28 AM   #806
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Quote:
Since you've read the thread you know of some preventive measures you can take to prep for the event, hope all goes well for you. Enjoy and let us know how it goes.
cool...my intention is to keep it simple and run with the novices and instructor... baby steps, I have logged a fair amount of time running EasyKart and I'm familiar on how fast a wrong decision or arrogance turns a fun experience into a scary situation, safety first.

cheers
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      04-27-2012, 02:10 PM   #807
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I'd like to contribute what I've tested and noticed.

Everything stock, including stock OC. No tune. All OEM fluids except coolant. I replaced the coolant with 90% distilled water and 10% (1 bottle) MoCool, so no BMW coolant. (I am aware and will be swapping this back out before winter; I'm more concerned about parts rusting due to water being used. Hope it's okay in the long run.)

Low rpm cruising in highway -> 95C (203F) steady @ 50-70F ambient
Give some gas and rev up in highway -> quickly drops to about 80-85C (176-185F) within about 5-10 seconds
Let it cruise again with low rev & throttle -> slowly ramps up to 95C (10-20 seconds) and remains steady

Low speed/traffic -> ramps up to 107C (225F) I've seen so far, but I have to be not moving for a long time (5min) to get there. Give it gas with air hitting radiator, it goes down quickly again.

At the track during ambient temps of up to 70F, due to constant high throttle input, I noticed the water temp remained around 85C (185F), and up to 90C (194F) if spirited tracking with more downshifts and higher revs. I did blast the heater one tick less than max, however from my observation, heater did not affect the water temp as much as it did with oil temp. Heater on = 240F oil, heater off = 250F oil, both at 70F ambient.

Hotter ambient temp tests to follow.
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      04-28-2012, 11:28 AM   #808
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Hey folks, that's a really useful topic! I've been reading it all due to the fact that I've been experiencing the same reduced power / limp mode at the track, most probably due to high coolant/oil temps.

Just to give some context, my car is bone stock except for the brakes (well, for now) and brake fluid. Stock coolant/water mix, without MoCool or other WW.

I've been experiencing "half engine" light after like 3 high speed laps, and it *always* kicked in at the end of the straight (braking from 125 to 40 mph) or in the subsequent slow turns after the straight. My car does have the stock OC, and oil temps exceeded 275 F every time reduced power occured.

I was thinking about joining the passenger side brake duct with the air duct to the OC for better flow (AFAIK they are useless anyway), I guess it would result in the approximately same amount of airflow as if I would fit the 335is or M3 air duct, but I would still retain the fog lights.
What do you guys think about that?
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      04-28-2012, 12:32 PM   #809
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i'll data log next track session.
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      05-08-2012, 06:35 PM   #810
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Methanol cure for limp?

Had a chat with Shiv yesterday about the methanol kit for the Procede. He claims that methanol injection will lower intake air temp, reducing ignition retard, increasing combustion efficiency and reducing oil temps 30ish degrees. This might be a cost competitive solution for limp modes on a hot day. You just have to resist the urge to crank up the boost to maximum to get another 120HP or so on a stock engine and undo what you just gained. But on a cool day, you could probably go for it. Ordered the kit so I will test and report.
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      05-14-2012, 12:43 AM   #811
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what is your guys opinion on the ER setup?

not the race one with dual OC but the one that is like 350% larger than OEM.

been getting quicker and quicker around the track and havent been able to run high boost since it just makes me overheat quicker.
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      05-15-2012, 10:57 PM   #812
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Swaped oil thermostat - spring data

Any one running stock OC with swapped spring on the track?

Here is some street data for a 2011, N55, DCT, stock oil is 245-248F, 40k+, clean intake, no OCC.

Swapped Oil T-stat with spring data:
Speed(mph) Amb(F) Weather Oil(F) Coolant(C)
80 80 sunny 220-225 ?
0-60 80 sunny 225-230 ?
60-80 60 rain 208-212 103-109
0-60 60 rain 220-230 108
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      05-16-2012, 12:26 AM   #813
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Quote:
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what is your guys opinion on the ER setup?

not the race one with dual OC but the one that is like 350% larger than OEM.

been getting quicker and quicker around the track and havent been able to run high boost since it just makes me overheat quicker.
I have the ER sports oilcooler and it improved oil temps ALOT! I can highly recommend this setup, it's a great upgrade.
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      05-23-2012, 04:26 PM   #814
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Now that I've had my first track experience I wanted to add to this... I unfortunately didnt get to log coolant temps because I couldnt find this thread on my mobile.

I HPDE'd my 1M with procede around NJMP lightning all day in 75* ambients with a pretty hard and heavy footed afternoon hitting 130+/- on the straight. My oil temps never went over 250 and although i couldnt monitor coolant temps I can say that I did not have a single malfunction light the entire day. Wish I could provide coolant temp data and will be sure to have the hack handy next time!
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