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      05-13-2012, 04:30 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shata View Post
Everyone has their own opinion on stuff I personally believe waiting 100k for plugs is bad idea. Mine was at 97k and as acting little wierd at idle and on gas from 1st gear. It ended up being worn out plugs - I would highly recommend doing plugs every 60k only because I think bmw says 100k to put stress on coils so you have to go to dealer to order new ones.
Ill definitely look it over, what needs to be replaced when you open the engine for the plugs?
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Originally Posted by shata View Post
Plugs go to autozone and get NGK Iriduim XI plugs (one ground prong). I Tried Bosch Plat +4's and mine ran like garbage, besides NGK is OEM for bmws.
Ill look for those, btw how much are they?
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Originally Posted by Tari View Post
Changing tranny fluid has caused many BMWs to have tranny failures. I'd leave it alone if I was you since its lifetime.
I hear that lifetime means 100k, I drive my car hard so id at least want to check on it
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Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
This is because most people only get around to changing the "lifetime" fluid after they've started to notice transmission problems already. It's already on it's last legs and then when it lets go people like to blame the fluid change.

A full pan drop and filter replacement should be part of everyone's maintenance routine. Don't wait too long.
What would I need to drop the pan for? Is there something located in there?
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Originally Posted by avocet View Post
give this a look over. i would only do things like brake pads/rotors if they are worn.

http://www.bavauto.com/Assets/inst_pages/e90mc.pdf
Any advice when replacing rotors? I need to do this as well
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Originally Posted by QUiKSR20 View Post
Or drive a manual like a BMW should be driven and dont worry about the crappy AUTO Sorry I had too, A manual is so much more enjoyable on a " DRIVERS CAR "
this is why I have a manual
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Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
Belts there is only one.
My Indy says not to change it till there are signs of cracks.
One of the perks of having a BMW is the timing chain.
Its suppose to never need changing and the only instance
of breakage I have seen reported here is during extreme abuse.
That's one of the more expensive maintenance procedures on
other cars.
If you have a manual change the fluid to redline D6 it will really
smooth out the shifts.
What would be considered extreme abuse? And I noticed my beklts are still in perfect condition. Where could I get redline at?
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      05-13-2012, 06:53 AM   #24
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What would I need to drop the pan for? Is there something located in there?
On an AT you need to drop the pan to change the filter. I see you have 6MT so this doesn't apply to you, but the portion of the discussion I was replying to was about AT.

At 60k I would change every fluid/filter in the car if it's not known whether it's been done before. Brake, clutch, coolant, steering, transmission, diff(s), transfer case (if applies), fuel filter (though we can't on the E90), engine air filter, cabin microfilter. I'm waiting for my Pentosin CHF-11S to arrive so I can do the steering, then I just have the transmission and diff left to change on my new-to-me E90. Plugs have also already been discussed. I was pretty happy with the price I found on Amazon ($71 for 6, free shipping in CONUS).

You should probably also carefully inspect the belt and related components. Over in E39-land, a bunch of us would remove the idler pulleys and repack them with grease on a regular basis. On my 14 year old E39, the AC tensioner pulley never needed replacing and the tensioner pulley near the alternator only needed replacing once before I started this habit. I've used a stethoscope to listen to the pulleys on my 60k E90 and they sound pretty rough. Shockingly, the belt looks perfect, but I'll have to get it off to tell for sure.

Last edited by Surly73; 05-13-2012 at 07:26 AM.
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      05-13-2012, 10:57 AM   #25
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lots of people here have had good luck with aftermarket rotors/pads. there is a ton of info here regarding that.

i used e-line r1concepts. no issues here.

changing your trans fluid WILL make a difference. i was pleasantly surprised when i went royal purple synchro max in my trans.

i used RP in the diff and castrol in the engine as well. she purrs

if you are at all inclined to DIY, these are pretty easy things to do, and there are alot of DIY guides out there.

i have no probs using ebay special parking brake shoes... after all, they are only used when stopped(i also have mine modded...)

i am pushing 90000km... 50-55k miles. will probably do the coolant and power steering fluid this summer.
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      05-13-2012, 11:45 AM   #26
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I'm at 55k, the dealer this week just did my coolant flush, clean fuel injectors before the summer hits (I should have done it at an indy shop, much cheaper and it wasn't covered under maintenance warranty). Brake pads, rotors changed last year, all fluids changed/refilled last year, all the other little maintenance renewed/changed except belts, water pump, thermostat, plugs and coils. I'd like to do those now but I'll wait maybe until summer ends. Credit card bills need to be paid off for now.

And I bring my car in modded except for the intake and I have no tune, dealer doesn't mind for everything else.
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      05-13-2012, 01:40 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by QUiKSR20 View Post
Or drive a manual like a BMW should be driven and dont worry about the crappy AUTO Sorry I had too, A manual is so much more enjoyable on a " DRIVERS CAR "
A 335i would be more of a drivers car
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      05-13-2012, 02:23 PM   #28
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Another thing that I just found out about couple days ago, P/S fluid is special from 2006+ on bmws so get that from dealer don't use stuff from autozone either.

Actually to be safe, I get all my fluids from dealer. At least you know your not fin stuff up.
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      05-13-2012, 02:44 PM   #29
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Take a good hard look at your suspension bushings and ball joints. My thrust arm bushings were leaking and needed replacing around 65k.
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      05-13-2012, 03:00 PM   #30
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Exterme abuse the so called money shift

Exterme abuse the so called money shift
That would cause timing chain failure.

I guess this only apply s to manuals but downshifting with the car at redline rpm's was the instance I saw or skipping a gear downshifting like from 6th to second .

The other maintenance item that is kind of crime with the DI engines
is the valve carbon build up. And all DI cars get this for a used BMW this would apply to the 335 only.
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      05-13-2012, 03:53 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
On an AT you need to drop the pan to change the filter. I see you have 6MT so this doesn't apply to you, but the portion of the discussion I was replying to was about AT.

At 60k I would change every fluid/filter in the car if it's not known whether it's been done before. Brake, clutch, coolant, steering, transmission, diff(s), transfer case (if applies), fuel filter (though we can't on the E90), engine air filter, cabin microfilter. I'm waiting for my Pentosin CHF-11S to arrive so I can do the steering, then I just have the transmission and diff left to change on my new-to-me E90. Plugs have also already been discussed. I was pretty happy with the price I found on Amazon ($71 for 6, free shipping in CONUS).

You should probably also carefully inspect the belt and related components. Over in E39-land, a bunch of us would remove the idler pulleys and repack them with grease on a regular basis. On my 14 year old E39, the AC tensioner pulley never needed replacing and the tensioner pulley near the alternator only needed replacing once before I started this habit. I've used a stethoscope to listen to the pulleys on my 60k E90 and they sound pretty rough. Shockingly, the belt looks perfect, but I'll have to get it off to tell for sure.
Ohhh got it, would you recommend me repacking the idler pulleys as well? Its still new but just wanna be safe
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Originally Posted by avocet View Post
lots of people here have had good luck with aftermarket rotors/pads. there is a ton of info here regarding that.

i used e-line r1concepts. no issues here.

changing your trans fluid WILL make a difference. i was pleasantly surprised when i went royal purple synchro max in my trans.

i used RP in the diff and castrol in the engine as well. she purrs

if you are at all inclined to DIY, these are pretty easy things to do, and there are alot of DIY guides out there.

i have no probs using ebay special parking brake shoes... after all, they are only used when stopped(i also have mine modded...)

i am pushing 90000km... 50-55k miles. will probably do the coolant and power steering fluid this summer.
I heard that royal is too good, its so good that you'd need to change the oil pretty often and ebay makes parking brake shoes? And how do you have your s modded?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yo-Hi.Red.Devil View Post
I'm at 55k, the dealer this week just did my coolant flush, clean fuel injectors before the summer hits (I should have done it at an indy shop, much cheaper and it wasn't covered under maintenance warranty). Brake pads, rotors changed last year, all fluids changed/refilled last year, all the other little maintenance renewed/changed except belts, water pump, thermostat, plugs and coils. I'd like to do those now but I'll wait maybe until summer ends. Credit card bills need to be paid off for now.

And I bring my car in modded except for the intake and I have no tune, dealer doesn't mind for everything else.
I only see that they do the very basics, I've changed my clutch about 40k miles ago how long do they last?
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I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      05-13-2012, 04:11 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shata View Post
Another thing that I just found out about couple days ago, P/S fluid is special from 2006+ on bmws so get that from dealer don't use stuff from autozone either.

Actually to be safe, I get all my fluids from dealer. At least you know your not fin stuff up.
What is P/S fluids? I was planning on using castro edge titanium for oil, redline or royal for my tranny and diff
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Originally Posted by asus389 View Post
Take a good hard look at your suspension bushings and ball joints. My thrust arm bushings were leaking and needed replacing around 65k.
I'm not too sure how to look for it it still handles very well and doesn't squeek or squeal even in the canyons
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
Exterme abuse the so called money shift
That would cause timing chain failure.

I guess this only apply s to manuals but downshifting with the car at redline rpm's was the instance I saw or skipping a gear downshifting like from 6th to second .

The other maintenance item that is kind of crime with the DI engines
is the valve carbon build up. And all DI cars get this for a used BMW this would apply to the 335 only.
I know downshifting with the car on redline is bad, but whenever I do roll races I always tend to shift from 6th to 3rd. Is that just as bad?
I'm usually rolling at about 60 to 70 already and about at 4-5K rpm. I never downshift close enough to the redline where id need to shift as soon as I gas it
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      05-13-2012, 05:30 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by itsmeek View Post
Sparkplugs and waterpump as well (many say to leave the waterpump till it dies).
Mine failed around 60k. Kiwi, if you replace the waterpump, replace the thermostat as well. Cabin filter is 2k overdue for me (currently 67k) but it's not that big of a deal and J0hnnyray or whatever is selling his for $20(?) and I believe he's local to you.

Edit: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=681542
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      05-13-2012, 05:35 PM   #34
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Mine failed around 60k. Kiwi, if you replace the waterpump, replace the thermostat as well. Cabin filter is 2k overdue for me (currently 67k) but it's not that big of a deal and J0hnnyray or whatever is selling his for $20(?) and I believe he's local to you.
Would i really need to replace the cabin air filter? i hardly use AC only heater. What signs would be a good indicator of needing replacement on the water pump? lately my car has been acting pretty weird with the radiator fan turning on randomly at idles, would this also be a sign of needing that coolant flush? i contacted him for an oil filter but no response yet
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Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      05-13-2012, 05:50 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
Would i really need to replace the cabin air filter? i hardly use AC only heater. What signs would be a good indicator of needing replacement on the water pump? lately my car has been acting pretty weird with the radiator fan turning on randomly at idles, would this also be a sign of needing that coolant flush? i contacted him for an oil filter but no response yet
Honestly, I'd probably replace windshield wipers before I replace my cabin filter LOL. I can't really answer your questions specifically because MY answer hit me while I was on the freeway. Basically it was like limp mode for a n52. The fan blowing on idle may be a sign because when my shit failed, the fan was on high throughout the 3mile freeway crawl and upon start up the next day the fan would turn on within 30seconds of the car being on which forced me to have my car towed to my dealership. I can get back to you on the cost for the repair if you're curious.
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      05-13-2012, 06:26 PM   #36
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Honestly, I'd probably replace windshield wipers before I replace my cabin filter LOL. I can't really answer your questions specifically because MY answer hit me while I was on the freeway. Basically it was like limp mode for a n52. The fan blowing on idle may be a sign because when my shit failed, the fan was on high throughout the 3mile freeway crawl and upon start up the next day the fan would turn on within 30seconds of the car being on which forced me to have my car towed to my dealership. I can get back to you on the cost for the repair if you're curious.

My car only went to limp mode twice, once was running my car super hard and the other was my friend blowing out my secondary cats lol scary as fck! So the fan randomly turning on counts somewhere in that margin of failing water pump? Or is it from coolant changing needed? My cars fan only turns onwhen I'm about to park in the garage, but usually it turns on after a long freeway run/drive
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I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      05-13-2012, 07:11 PM   #37
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I would replace the electric waterpump and thermostat.
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      05-14-2012, 03:51 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
My car only went to limp mode twice, once was running my car super hard and the other was my friend blowing out my secondary cats lol scary as fck! So the fan randomly turning on counts somewhere in that margin of failing water pump? Or is it from coolant changing needed? My cars fan only turns onwhen I'm about to park in the garage, but usually it turns on after a long freeway run/drive
Highly doubt it's coolant since that's easily replaceable -- even with water. Typically when pushed your fan will blow for a short period of time depending on how hard you pushed it. When I ran 100% throttle re-map on my BMS tune, one block around neighboring side roads caused my fan to turn on. Bottom line is that those two things are definitely something you gotta ask your SA about but for sure you're gonna have to replace it soon.I would also suggest having them check for leaks as well since my oil housing gasket needed to be replaced ~1k BEFORE my tstat and water pump went out.
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      05-14-2012, 04:00 AM   #39
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Highly doubt it's coolant since that's easily replaceable -- even with water. Typically when pushed your fan will blow for a short period of time depending on how hard you pushed it. When I ran 100% throttle re-map on my BMS tune, one block around neighboring side roads caused my fan to turn on. Bottom line is that those two things are definitely something you gotta ask your SA about but for sure you're gonna have to replace it soon.I would also suggest having them check for leaks as well since my oil housing gasket needed to be replaced ~1k BEFORE my tstat and water pump went out.
I honestly feel a bit assed out, I don't have an SA anymore and I'm out of warranty :'( I don't seee any leaks and my fan only stays on for about 10 seconds and shuts off. It doesn't always turn on but it usually does after I run a few times in the canyons and drive back home. The other times it turns on is from a dead cold start and I drive right away. Other than that, I've only had one over heated problem and I've only put an eight of distilled water in the antifreeze resevoir to make it reach back to max. But definitely ill try to get an expert's help
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I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      05-14-2012, 04:06 AM   #40
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I honestly feel a bit assed out, I don't have an SA anymore and I'm out of warranty :'( I don't seee any leaks and my fan only stays on for about 10 seconds and shuts off. It doesn't always turn on but it usually does after I run a few times in the canyons and drive back home. The other times it turns on is from a dead cold start and I drive right away. Other than that, I've only had one over heated problem and I've only put an eight of distilled water in the antifreeze resevoir to make it reach back to max. But definitely ill try to get an expert's help
Definitely make friends with your SA if you have the chance. My warranty was out too but to fix those 3 problems costed me less than $1k and I have 2 year warranty on the labor as well. Hopefully the posters in your thread has helped you out a bit with where to start and such but hopefully you'll find a solution that won't cost you an arm and/or a leg!
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      05-14-2012, 04:37 AM   #41
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Definitely make friends with your SA if you have the chance. My warranty was out too but to fix those 3 problems costed me less than $1k and I have 2 year warranty on the labor as well. Hopefully the posters in your thread has helped you out a bit with where to start and such but hopefully you'll find a solution that won't cost you an arm and/or a leg!
Everyone on the post has been extremely helpful, and thank you for your time as well I wish I had time to make friends with my SA, he was pretty cool and loved my mods and driving my car lol I've learned my lesson on buying from dealerships, I had to pay 4k for a new clutch, flywheel, and 1 motor mount -.- all and all, I say they ripped me the hell off! But my SA was kind enough to go the extra mile and see that most of my money was refunded and that I had the best experience possible. My list of things to do asap is:
Oil change (motor)
Rotors and pads(rears)
Sparkplugs
Waterpump
Tranny and diff oil change
Probably in that order as well, hopefully tho, I don't need to chop my arm and leg off. I know that the mod bug definitely flew away for now lol id rather have my car run than sit there and look at it being pretty XD
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Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      05-14-2012, 06:34 AM   #42
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You're doing the sparkplugs- do the cabin filter. I got one from amazon for like $12 shipped. Why not?
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      05-14-2012, 07:11 AM   #43
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You're doing the sparkplugs- do the cabin filter. I got one from amazon for like $12 shipped. Why not?
FYI, at that price it probably doesn't have the activated charcoal, which is a nice feature to keep outside smells from entering the cabin. With charcoals they're usually $20-30 most place I look (except the dealer, of course).

I generally prefer Mann filters (oil, air, cabin, etc..) and I've just installed a Mann cabin filter with charcoal.
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      05-14-2012, 07:43 AM   #44
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Apologies, it was $22 shipped. Yes to the charcoal.

http://www.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-CU...6999303&sr=8-2
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