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      05-16-2012, 05:47 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
I just bought a whole case of 0w40 mobil 1, any thoughts? Will it work or is the weight off?
It's fine.

My personal empirical observation on M52 and M54 engines is that Mobil1 is significantly "noisier" than other oils but it's protection is excellent. Lab analysis on used M1 0W40 in my M52 was excellent. I switched to GC (Castrol 0W30 made in Germany) because of this noise issue. My M52 was transformed noise-wise by this change.

You're good to go.

You'll notice the bottle will specifically say LL-01 on it.
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      05-17-2012, 01:33 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
It's fine.

My personal empirical observation on M52 and M54 engines is that Mobil1 is significantly "noisier" than other oils but it's protection is excellent. Lab analysis on used M1 0W40 in my M52 was excellent. I switched to GC (Castrol 0W30 made in Germany) because of this noise issue. My M52 was transformed noise-wise by this change.

You're good to go.

You'll notice the bottle will specifically say LL-01 on it.
What exactly do you mean by noisy?
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Driving is like having sex.
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      05-17-2012, 06:46 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
What exactly do you mean by noisy?
It was mechanical "white" noise. If you google something like "Mobil1 noise" you'll see tons of stuff. Some people believe it's BS because it doesn't happen on their engine. Others go on and on about it.

On my M52, it was dramatic. On Mobil1 the engine drowned out a slight lifter tick and everything else under the hood. Running through the rev range on the road sounded kind of like it was doing it but it wasn't happy at high revs. Lab analysis of the used oil came back great for oil condition and wear metals. The oil had sheared significantly from being a light 40 weight to a mid-weight 30 though.

On anything but Mobil1, suddenly the slight lifter tick was prominent, I could hear power steering and alternator whirring, and I could talk to someone comfortably in my attached garage with the hood up. On the road as I ran up to high revs I could most only hear intake and exhaust instead of all of the other mechanical hash.

I believe the phenomenon started during one of the early 2000s reformulations of Mobil1 (like change from TriSyn to SuperSyn or something). I was a die-hard M1 fan and ran it in a 1990 Acura (5W30) and 1992 Porsche (15W50 red cap) too. I had noticed that both seemed to get noisy but didn't associate it with the oil. I just thought they were "getting old". The Acura Integra picked up a lower frequency rumbly noise from the valvetrain. The Porsche was more general noise like the BMW, but was the least affected of the three.

Anyways - it's subjective and doesn't affect protection. I stopped using M1 just because of the noise, not its performance as a lubricant. I don't know if the N52 is affected and, frankly, I'm not going to spend $100 on oil to find out when there are other options on the table that I know are fine.

I found Castrol 0W30 to be substantially quieter in my M52 than Mobil1 0W40. GC is also more shear stable (doesn't thin as much). M1 0W40 starts thicker than GC but is thinner after only 6000km (4k mi).

In the last couple of years with my M52 I was running Rotella T 15W40 in the summer (super quiet, and great lab results). I started running Rotella T6 5W40 year round - not quite as quiet but was a 5W syn oil (albeit group III) so was more suitable to my climate. I was about to do an oil change and send the T6 to the lab when my E39 was totaled.

Synthetic really wasn't necessary in the M52 unless you were trying to do BMW's super long intervals or you lived in an extreme cold climate. You just need to make sure to change it "often enough", which lab analysis can help with. As I wrote in a previous post, finding a cold weather oil that is still ACEA A3 is very difficult, and GC and M1 0W40 are the best choices for that situation. Conventional oils are much better now than they were 10 years ago and the M52, M54, M62 series of engines were really easy on oil and, despite having VANOS, weren't cranky about running very specific viscosities.

Now DI cars eat oil for breakfast in North America because of the richer operating tune. There's nothing more damaging to engine oil than fuel contamination (fuel is a solvent) and in North American trim DI engines usually dump fuel into the oil. There are lab results for an Audi S4, I believe, with DI that nukes it's oil in only 1,000km. The BMW factory intervals are particularly horrifying in light of that. Without careful lab analysis, I'd probably run synthetic in any of the DI turbo cars (N54, N55) and probably change 2-3x as often as the BMW interval (if it were mine)

Last edited by Surly73; 05-17-2012 at 07:03 AM.
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      05-17-2012, 11:42 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
There are lab results for an Audi S4, I believe, with DI that nukes it's oil in only 1,000km. The BMW factory intervals are particularly horrifying in light of that. Without careful lab analysis, I'd probably run synthetic in any of the DI turbo cars (N54, N55) and probably change 2-3x as often as the BMW interval (if it were mine)
Those lab results were probably either from the N54 or the RS6 (see reply #61 above).

And yes, the factory set intervals are indeed horrifying. Here's what Terry Dyson himself has to say about the N54 in general:

Quote:
I have customers running BMW5w30, M1 0w40 all with the same effect, the wear control is good if we change the oil at 1000 mile intervals but the deposit formation from REAL volatility issues are slowly damaging the engines. I just worked a 07 335 Biturbo yesterday USING ASTM lab tests on the used oil and M1 0w40 went from VOA flash of 430+F to 240 F in 1150 miles, oil sheared to 12.1 cSt and fuel was at 1.99% by IR. Amsoil has not been tested in this engine yet. Because Amsoil is a traditional based PAO I predict similar results to the M1 0w40 which is still one of few M1 products that can perform reasonably well.

RLI BIOSYN is the only oil I am seeing work well in DI RS4 or 2.0 Audi or the BMW bi turbo 3.0 I6 in the 335I. They both are killing every oil I used to recommend. I am not kidding and have no interest in promoting one oil over the other.

The M1 0w40 should not be run longer than 1000 miles to be safe.. Audi and BMW know they are having problems but are marketing tied to certain LARGE oil company that sponsors BITOG thus they cannot speak out about it.

GC 0w30 green might work well here but the fuels chemistries have changed so much that it may be out of date to protect as well as I would want to see.
This is why I didn't even bother with M1 0w40, GC, Redline, Amsoil, etc. and went straight to RLI.
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      05-17-2012, 01:12 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
Those lab results were probably either from the N54 or the RS6 (see reply #61 above).

And yes, the factory set intervals are indeed horrifying. Here's what Terry Dyson himself has to say about the N54 in general:



This is why I didn't even bother with M1 0w40, GC, Redline, Amsoil, etc. and went straight to RLI.
That's the one that I'm referring to. I figured there must be other BITOGers on here somewhere.
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      05-17-2012, 07:37 PM   #72
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I have noticed that M1 0W40 starts getting noisier in my N52 at 7,000 mls, which is about when I change it anyway (1/2 the factory change interval.)

I've been happy with M1 on this car, and my previous E46, but at the next change I'm changing to GC 0W30. I've been under the impression that M1 0W40 was a Group IV PAO oil, based on what I had read, but now I believe it is hybrid of Group 3 & 4, while GC is a true Group IV. Probably no big deal based on my change interval, still I want the best oil I can get that's approved by BMW. And I live in one of the hottest populated places on earth.
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      05-17-2012, 08:34 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanAZ View Post
I've been happy with M1 on this car, and my previous E46, but at the next change I'm changing to GC 0W30. I've been under the impression that M1 0W40 was a Group IV PAO oil, based on what I had read, but now I believe it is hybrid of Group 3 & 4, while GC is a true Group IV. Probably no big deal based on my change interval, still I want the best oil I can get that's approved by BMW. And I live in one of the hottest populated places on earth.
Everything these days is a blend, and Group III/III+ is a heck of a lot better than it was a decade ago. Group III oils would protect our N52s just fine end of sentence, unless you want to run extended intervals or just like the peace of mind of syn. The challenge is handling really cold winter temps but still meeting ACEA A3. You're still going to need a syn for that.

No one on e90post knows this, but I've said a hundred times - don't get hung up on looking for this group or that group. They are ALL blends. Go for the product that gets the job done. Group IV oils don't even make good lubricants without splashes of group I, III and/or V. Group IV oils are typically non-polar and don't dissolve additive packs. They're also not good for seals.

I believe that GC is a blend of III or III+, IV and V. There's definitely group V in GC because displays incompatibility with Auto-RX, which is composed entirely of esters.

Regardless, I prefer GC over M1 at the moment too because of the noise issue. Of course my "new" 2007 E90 was serviced at dealer intervals (every other car I looked at was that or even worse) and I was tempted to go with M1 0W40 due to M1's reputation for more aggressive cleaning. I still have a year of a transferable extended warranty so I didn't want to go to Redline (which having lots of group V should be pretty much the tops in terms of cleaning) since it doesn't have an LL-01 badge. I went with GC because a local store put it 40% off the day I went out to grab oil.

I bet you really would have noticed your E46 being quieter with something other than M1 in there.
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      05-18-2012, 11:55 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
Everything these days is a blend, and Group III/III+ is a heck of a lot better than it was a decade ago.

I believe that GC is a blend of III or III+, IV and V. There's definitely group V in GC because displays incompatibility with Auto-RX, which is composed entirely of esters.

I bet you really would have noticed your E46 being quieter with something other than M1 in there.
With my E46, I didn't notice a difference in noise between the BMW 5W30 and the M1, except at startup, the M1 was better, as expected. And the M1 definitely idles smoother in the middle of summer here in Phoenix.

The Europeans are strict on their labeling of oil, and according to this, it has no Group III. You're saying it does have Group III, can you point me to the information source for this? I was misinformed on the M1, I don't want to do that twice.
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      07-06-2012, 05:52 PM   #75
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I read this whole thread and i just want to ask you guys what oil is going to be the safest bet?

Castrol or mobil 1?

I recently puchased a 08 328i, I just hit 65k miles and this is my 1st oil change.

Thanks
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      07-07-2012, 08:06 AM   #76
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Never Ending OIL Question

Just choose ANY LL-01 OIL.

STICK WITH IT ----
.
.
More important to change it often --- over brand
.
.
I find M1 0W-40 to be the cheapest & change every 5K with Mann.

.
.
In a 328i --- 7.5K intervals would be good -- in most cases.
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      07-07-2012, 12:20 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave1423 View Post
I read this whole thread and i just want to ask you guys what oil is going to be the safest bet?

Castrol or mobil 1?

I recently puchased a 08 328i, I just hit 65k miles and this is my 1st oil change.

Thanks
Safest for what? These engines aren't as picky as most believe them to be. (and most oils out there are far better than these same people believe them to be)

It doesn't matter - pick whichever you like, or can obtain the easiest/cheapest.

I have experienced noise issues with M1 lubricants in other engines (including my M52 BMW) and make a point of not using M1 products now. I used to use M1 in everything years ago. The lab results from the used M1 oil were great though so the noise wasn't resulting in wear, it was just annoying. I haven't tried M1 0W40 in an N52/N54 so I can't comment on whether it makes a difference or not.
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      07-10-2012, 07:35 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifton View Post
FYI - Castrol Edge w/Syntec 5w40, is now a LL-01.


I'm a bit confused. At the beginning of the thread everyone was saying to use the Castrol 0w30 now the Castrol Edge w/Syntec 5w40 is also LL-01. So which one do you guys? I have a 2007 328i and not sure which one I should be getting.
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      07-10-2012, 09:16 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero_09 View Post
I'm a bit confused. At the beginning of the thread everyone was saying to use the Castrol 0w30 now the Castrol Edge w/Syntec 5w40 is also LL-01. So which one do you guys? I have a 2007 328i and not sure which one I should be getting.
Don't over think it. The 5w40 Castrol product was LL98 when this thread was started. Castrol upgraded this product to LL01 late last year or early this year. Just buy whichever LL01 is the cheapest. Hell the BMW dealer oil is used in all the new turbo M cars and it's cheap.
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      07-14-2012, 11:14 AM   #80
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Quote:
I'm a bit confused. At the beginning of the thread everyone was saying to use the Castrol 0w30 now the Castrol Edge w/Syntec 5w40 is also LL-01. So which one do you guys? I have a 2007 328i and not sure which one I should be getting.
You're in Toronto. The 0w30 will provide better cold start and cooler running protection than a 5w40 for the long, cold winters. If you lived in a hot climate, AZ, FL, TX, then the 5w40 might provide better summer protection.
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      07-14-2012, 11:21 AM   #81
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BEST OIL FOR 335i

Try RED LINE 5-30W winter and 5-40W summer by far the best oil for a hard working turbo.In my case moded close to 500hp crank.
Tried 10 different oils out and only Red Line does not cause my car to consume any oil 5k change routine and 0 topoffs,simply amazing stuff...less turbo lag as a bonus...
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      07-14-2012, 12:26 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanAZ View Post
You're in Toronto. The 0w30 will provide better cold start and cooler running protection than a 5w40 for the long, cold winters. If you lived in a hot climate, AZ, FL, TX, then the 5w40 might provide better summer protection.
Well I need to do an oil change now so I think I'll just get the oil at a dealer. We have a BMW Dealer sponsor over at Maxbimmer that provides us with great pricing. I think it was under $7/L. Not really sure to find the 0w30 stuff here in Toronto. I've checked Canadian Tire but they only have the 5w40 Castrol Edge SPT for over $11/L
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      09-17-2012, 01:06 PM   #83
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http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Conte...ngineOils.aspx - gives a list of a few partially down the page.
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      09-18-2012, 08:27 PM   #84
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I know this is the topic for Engine Oils, but is there a specific Filter you all recommend?
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      09-19-2012, 08:26 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by Mikey335 View Post
I know this is the topic for Engine Oils, but is there a specific Filter you all recommend?
OEM (MANN I believe)
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      09-19-2012, 07:48 PM   #86
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Just some info to take in;

I use mobile1 0w-40 and...

I had a 2000 323ci that I got rid of at 150k and that car ran like a dream
Then had an 01 330ci which also ran absolutely perfect, as if new. Got rid of it at 140k.

Now I have a 09 335i at 27k, bet your butt I'm using mobil1 0w-40. I only PRAY this car would run half as good as my old 3-series.
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      09-20-2012, 04:00 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aph335i View Post
Just some info to take in;

I use mobile1 0w-40 and...

I had a 2000 323ci that I got rid of at 150k and that car ran like a dream
Then had an 01 330ci which also ran absolutely perfect, as if new. Got rid of it at 140k.

Now I have a 09 335i at 27k, bet your butt I'm using mobil1 0w-40. I only PRAY this car would run half as good as my old 3-series.
Yeah. People really overthink the oil thing. A former tribologist(sp?) who had 30+ yrs experience once told me that oil related failures are very rare and that in the end all oils which have same OEM cert perform about the same. That's the point.
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      10-12-2012, 09:43 AM   #88
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I just did an oil chanage myself on my 335i , i put Castrol Edge Full Synthetic 5W-40. What i dont understand and really bothers me is that when i went to purchase my oil filter from the BMW parts center, i had asked what oil they use and they said 5W-30 part synthetic. Now when i open my hood it clearly says to only use full synthetic oil only. Why would a the dealer go as far as putting crap oil in a a forced induction enginge which in my mind would require nothing less than full synthetic. I used to have a G35 and i only put full synthetic and i changed it every 4,000 as to the dealer which says every 10,000 which is f****** absurd! Im really big on quality and maintenance and this non-sense being done by the dealrs especially when you have paid for a warranty makes no sense. When i asked if i could do my oil change with synthetic even though i have warranty they said yes but that i need to pay extra
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