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      02-01-2012, 10:00 PM   #89
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      02-06-2012, 02:13 AM   #90
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I drained about 5.1 liter out but only able to put back about 4.3 back in. Since I know how much I'm short could I fill when cold to replace missing .8 liter? Is there any risk of running without filling rest back in?
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      02-06-2012, 08:50 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksk
I drained about 5.1 liter out but only able to put back about 4.3 back in. Since I know how much I'm short could I fill when cold to replace missing .8 liter? Is there any risk of running without filling rest back in?
You probably didn't fill it at the appropriate temp. range or didn't shift through the gears. Note, if you open the fill plug when it is COLD the oil will gush out.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      02-06-2012, 01:39 PM   #92
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Drained when the temp was 88f and topped off when 122f. Should i have drained and filled at same temp?
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      02-06-2012, 02:09 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksk
Drained when the temp was 88f and topped off when 122f. Should i have drained and filled at same temp?
That shouldn't matter. Maybe car wasn't level? Measured wrong? If it shifts fine I wouldn't worry about it, but if you will lose sleep over it then have a transmission place check the fluid level.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      02-06-2012, 02:56 PM   #94
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Gonna try it again this weekend and this time i will measure with a level before removing the plug. Thanks again.
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      02-08-2012, 05:46 PM   #95
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Considering changing my fluid ('08 335xi) in the near future and would really like to flush all the fluid, not just a drain and fill.

I found this posting online and was wondering if anyone knew of a way to do something similar with my car?

Also wondering why nothing is ever this easily accessible on any car I have ever worked on? :-)
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      02-09-2012, 01:10 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilsjay
Considering changing my fluid ('08 335xi) in the near future and would really like to flush all the fluid, not just a drain and fill.

I found this posting online and was wondering if anyone knew of a way to do something similar with my car?

Also wondering why nothing is ever this easily accessible on any car I have ever worked on? :-)
I wouldn't do that. 1) we don't have a dipstick; and 2) wouldn't want to run the transmission dry in case you either are not pumping fluid fast enough into the transmission or one of the hoses on your hand pump disconnects and there you are, with trans fluid not being pumped into the transmission, on your back, panicking. Just drain and fill once then again after 5k if you are worried about the torque converter oil or take it to a transmission shop.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger

Last edited by Chriztofor; 02-09-2012 at 01:23 PM.
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      02-13-2012, 10:59 PM   #97
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Fyi,

INQUIRYDETAILS : What is the difference between Tansmax multi-vehicle import transmission fluid and multi-vehicle import? Are you phasing out one for the other? Can the transmax oil be used for Shell M1375.5 specs? I know your multi-vehicle import (without transmax) was recommended for Shell M1375.4. Please let me know, I need to change my fluid soon. Thank you!
CARMAKE : BMW
CARMODEL : 325i
CARYEAR : 2006
WHOCHAGESTHEOIL : You
BUSINESSINVOLVEMENTTYPE : Consumer
*
Problem Resolution:
Mon 13/02/2012/6:17 PM EST/ AF - Castrol Representative-
Thank you for contacting Castrol North America.

Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF has received a name change to Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle ATF. This change has not effected the formula as it remains the same. Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle ATF still meets the Shell M1375.4 specifications.

Castrol Appreciates your business, Castrol Consumer Relations.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      02-24-2012, 11:39 PM   #98
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just did my 335i transmission oil drained 5 liter filled with pentosin atf1 5.5 liter.
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      05-21-2012, 09:13 AM   #99
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Results of 6HP19Z Trans Fluid Change on e90 330i

I bought my 06 330i used with 53K miles so i don't really know what the trans was supposed to feel like, but with now 68K miles I was concerned with:

---The car always chomping at the bit at a light
---Rough 2-3 shifts (first gear change in Normal mode)
---Occasional high revs before accelerating
---Recent "Trans Warning Symbol" and driving home in limp mode

I bought the pan/filter on Amazon for $93 and 6 quarts of Mercon SP at OReilly's for $30, so total was about $125.

I used ramps under the front wheels and jack stands at the rear. Had to buy an N8 Torx socket to move the exhaust clamp out of the way. I have an air ratchet which is useful for the 24 pan bolts when lying on your back. I had started with a hot engine and measured the drained fluid---6.25 quarts. I just managed to get 6 fresh quarts back in even with jacking the car way up on the filler side.

After driving about 30 miles this is what I have found:

1. The 2-3 shift in Normal mode is MUCH smoother
2. The 1-2 shift in Sport mode is firm but "civilized"
3. The higher gear lockups seems firmer and better connected---less slipping.
4. The Sport mode downshifts are much better as well. It doesn't feel like it's trying to throw me thru the windshield when coming to a stop.
5. Full throttle gear changes in both modes seem solid and tight.

For the meager cost and 2 hours of effort, it was well worth it.
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      05-29-2012, 03:16 PM   #100
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Update, changed oil at 82,850 (26,000 miles from my last change). Fluid a little bit brown, runs smooth. No problems to report. Will keep everyone posted. Cheers.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      06-07-2012, 08:29 AM   #101
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Is there an ATF line running to the radiator and back to the gearbox on the 335i to cool the ATF fluid?
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      06-07-2012, 01:56 PM   #102
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what brand was the filter/pan from amazon..seems like a really good price

Quote:
Originally Posted by exmaxima1 View Post
I bought my 06 330i used with 53K miles so i don't really know what the trans was supposed to feel like, but with now 68K miles I was concerned with:

---The car always chomping at the bit at a light
---Rough 2-3 shifts (first gear change in Normal mode)
---Occasional high revs before accelerating
---Recent "Trans Warning Symbol" and driving home in limp mode

I bought the pan/filter on Amazon for $93 and 6 quarts of Mercon SP at OReilly's for $30, so total was about $125.

I used ramps under the front wheels and jack stands at the rear. Had to buy an N8 Torx socket to move the exhaust clamp out of the way. I have an air ratchet which is useful for the 24 pan bolts when lying on your back. I had started with a hot engine and measured the drained fluid---6.25 quarts. I just managed to get 6 fresh quarts back in even with jacking the car way up on the filler side.

After driving about 30 miles this is what I have found:

1. The 2-3 shift in Normal mode is MUCH smoother
2. The 1-2 shift in Sport mode is firm but "civilized"
3. The higher gear lockups seems firmer and better connected---less slipping.
4. The Sport mode downshifts are much better as well. It doesn't feel like it's trying to throw me thru the windshield when coming to a stop.
5. Full throttle gear changes in both modes seem solid and tight.

For the meager cost and 2 hours of effort, it was well worth it.
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      06-18-2012, 08:00 PM   #103
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Thanks for the DIY. I just did this DIY last night with the same castrol multi-vehicle ATF.

Unfortunately my car no longer up-shifts very well from gear 3-4. It feels like it slips for half a second especially when the car is cold. The gear shift between 3-4 gets better as the car/transmission warms up. All the other gears shift as they did before which is a good thing. Downshifting from 5-4 has no problems at all

Im not sure what the problem could be. I got ~5 liters back in the tranny while filling using the instructions given in this DIY. Could it be that my transmission fluid is a little low/too high? or that the castrol ATF is not mixing well with the oem fluid.

BTW my e92 335i has 60,000 miles on it and had no tranny problems prior to changing the fluid. I did this DIY because my mechatronic sleeve was leaking.

Any help or suggestions would be great
I will repost once I figure out the problem
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      06-18-2012, 11:42 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MA2-335 View Post
Thanks for the DIY. I just did this DIY last night with the same castrol multi-vehicle ATF.

Unfortunately my car no longer up-shifts very well from gear 3-4. It feels like it slips for half a second especially when the car is cold. The gear shift between 3-4 gets better as the car/transmission warms up. All the other gears shift as they did before which is a good thing. Downshifting from 5-4 has no problems at all

Im not sure what the problem could be. I got ~5 liters back in the tranny while filling using the instructions given in this DIY. Could it be that my transmission fluid is a little low/too high? or that the castrol ATF is not mixing well with the oem fluid.

BTW my e92 335i has 60,000 miles on it and had no tranny problems prior to changing the fluid. I did this DIY because my mechatronic sleeve was leaking.

Any help or suggestions would be great
I will repost once I figure out the problem
If you are experiencing problems then I would take it to a trans shop and replace the fluid with oem. I would also have them look at your mechtronic sleeve install. What you are experiencing could be anything, ie low fluid, wrong install, ect...too expensive to guess and putz around with it. Good luck and post an update.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      06-19-2012, 01:14 PM   #105
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This DIY only references a drain/refill. Is the capacity the same when doing a pan/filter swap as well? (6 qts)
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      06-19-2012, 01:55 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJA
This DIY only references a drain/refill. Is the capacity the same when doing a pan/filter swap as well? (6 qts)
Probably not. Just make sure you follow the steps and put in enough fluid while the car is running so the fluid comes out the fill hole.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      06-20-2012, 04:59 PM   #107
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Thanks for the response and DIY Chriztofor

My car is fine now :-)

I decided to measure how much fluid I had in my oil pan (old oem fluid). I took out a little over 6.5 liters. So I drove my car until the engine oil was relatively warm. Put it on jack stands and raised the back of the car a little more. Checked the pan with a leveler. I ended up getting over 6.5 liters in total back into the tranny. I'm really happy I didn't have to take my car to the dealer or a tranny shop.

I drove it to warm it because my ATF pan wasnt warm when I started it for 10 mins last time.

It was my mistake for not measuring out how much fluid I took out. Hope no one makes the same mistake.

+1 for castrol multi-vehicle ATF
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      06-21-2012, 12:04 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MA2-335 View Post
Thanks for the response and DIY Chriztofor

My car is fine now :-)

I decided to measure how much fluid I had in my oil pan (old oem fluid). I took out a little over 6.5 liters. So I drove my car until the engine oil was relatively warm. Put it on jack stands and raised the back of the car a little more. Checked the pan with a leveler. I ended up getting over 6.5 liters in total back into the tranny. I'm really happy I didn't have to take my car to the dealer or a tranny shop.

I drove it to warm it because my ATF pan wasnt warm when I started it for 10 mins last time.

It was my mistake for not measuring out how much fluid I took out. Hope no one makes the same mistake.

+1 for castrol multi-vehicle ATF
Glad it worked out! Getting the transmission oil warm enough (not scolding hot) is the tricky part, especially if you live in a cold climate or doing this in the winter time.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      06-21-2012, 01:17 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriztofor View Post
Probably not. Just make sure you follow the steps and put in enough fluid while the car is running so the fluid comes out the fill hole.
Well dang! I will need to go get another qt or two i suppose then!!!!


Thank you for the response.
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      06-25-2012, 09:42 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07bmw335iguy View Post
Here's a link for the adaptive reset for the transmission. A good thing to do after changing fluid and filter. Made a world of a difference for me.

http://forums.5series.net/topic/4001...moother-shift/
Ok so I changed my filter/fluid this past wknd. First off thank you for the DIY here everyone.

I only got ~4.5 qts/liters back into it. Drives fine. No issues.

So of anyone that has done this who has done this reset mentioned above? If my car isnt experiencing any shifting issues i dont think its necessary is it? Does it help, or even work?
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