CAUTION: This DIY is a "Copy and Paste" from sellers web site, installation has not been verified by me.
DIY Complexity: Hard
DIY Time: 3.2 hours
VDO Driver Side Fuel Pump
for 2007 BMW 335i Base 6 Cyl 3.0L
Fuel Pump - $222.95
Warranty: 12-month or 12,000-mile warranty
Location: Driver Side
3/8 in. Drive Ratchet - $7.55
Floor Jack - $145.54
Multimeter - $247.13
Jack Stand Set - $36.93
Flat Head Screwdriver - $3.14
Mallet Hammer - $6.83
Locate the fuel pump.
Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.
Have a friend turn the key to the“ON” position while you listen for a high pitched hiss/whine coming from the electric fuel pump.
Tip: If the fuel pump is located in the fuel tank, you can open the fuel cap and listen to hear the fuel pump. The fuel pump should run (priming the system with fuel) for a couple of seconds. Once it stops, you should be able to start the vehicle.
If the fuel pump does not make a sound (run and prime the fuel system) check to see if there is a fuse that supplies power to the fuel pump and check its location.
Tip: Check the owner’s manual for location of the fuse box and fuel pump fuse.
Once you have found the location of the fuel pump fuse, remove the fuse from its housing and check to see if it is blown.
Tip: A blown fuse will usually have a metal strip connecting both tabs that“blows out” (the wire looks as if it has been chopped in half or broken).
If you noticed that the fuse was blown, replace the fuse with a new fuse of the same amperage and repeat step 2.
If the fuel pump now works, you do not need to replace it. However, you will need to find what caused the fuel pump fuse to blow. We strongly recommend that this is done through a certified shop, unless you have the tools and knowledge to test electrical systems and diagnose more in depth problems.
If the fuse wasn’t blown, it should be checked for power and ground at the fuel pump. If there is power and ground present then you will need to replace the fuel pump.
Tip: On most vehicles you may need to lower the fuel tank to access the power and ground leads for the fuel pump.
Siphon or drain as much fuel as possible from the fuel tank. Disconnect any possible fuel lines from the fuel tank.
Remove any retaining straps or bolts holding the fuel tank to the frame.
Tip: You may be able to access the fuel pump from the bottom of the back seat or the trunk of the vehicle.
Using a digital multi meter, turn the key to the“ON” position and check for power at the fuel pump. Touch the negative lead from the DMM to a good ground and the positive lead of the DMM to the power cable at the fuel pump. You should have a reading that is equal to battery power. If you do not have a reading at all, you will need to inspect the power side of the fuel pump.
Tip: With the ground lead of the DMM still connected to a good ground, touch the power lead to the positive side of the battery, to each side of the fuse, and again to the fuel pump. Wherever you notice the voltage reading goes from battery voltage to 0 you will need to replace whatever wires and fuse are in between.
If you have noticed that the power and ground being supplied to the fuel pump are both good, then you will need to replace the fuel pump.
Tip: To check for a good ground, place the negative lead from the DMM to the ground side of the fuel pump, and the positive lead of the DMM to the positive side of the battery. If the reading on the DMM is battery voltage then you have a good ground.
Remove any retaining rings or bolts that hold the fuel pump in the fuel tank.
Remove any electrical connections or fuel lines connected to the fuel pump. Replace the fuel pump.
Tip: If equipped, inspect and replace strainer as needed.
Use reverse procedure to install fuel pump and assemble all components back to their original state.
Start the vehicle to verify repairs.