[N54_Fan]

.

[JamesM3M5]

Excellent info. I assume you are reading coolant temp through a P3 style gauge or the cluster unlocked to display coolant temp?

Also, don't add another bottle of water wetter. The coolant system barely holds 2 gallons, and one bottle of WW is for 3 to 5 gallons.

[335iJWC]

Nice quick review, i guess the real test will be at track!

[Orb]

Originally Posted by N54_Fan

Some of you may have seen that I have a 2007 E93 AT that I love and have discovered a desire to track my car. As many already know a weak link in the cooling system for the AT because of the integrated tranny heat exchanger. So I had an opportunity to buy the 335IS radiator fan and shroud for $359 compared to MSRP ~$800. My WP had been acting up so I was got them both replaced together along with new T-stat.

Initially, the old water temps had been running between 200-207F on normal DD with some spirited driving in mid 90 deg. weather in FL. My fan over the last few weeks was running overtime but temps never got lower than 199 on DD. The new/335IS fan is 850w compared to 600w stock fan. I notice now that the fan is much quieter. Temps are generally the same 204F avg or so. However, the difference seems to be at idle at a light or after slowing from a high speed spirited driving. Temps rise while sitting and then the fan cuts in or increases speed. This fan takes only 15-30 sec to lower temps by 5-10 degrees F when on full speed. The old fan took at least 1-2 min to lower only ~ 5 degrees. If I turn on the defrost, heater or even A/C fan the temps can go at low as 189-190F.

Overall the fan was easy to install. Its heavier but the shroud fits perfectly and is easy Plug nPlay. No codes or rewiring needed. The main difference that I have noted is the fluctuations now in temps. Before temos were in a narrow range 199-207 and slowly changed for the most part. Now temp changes are more rapid and seem to result in fluctuations in a wider range of 195-212. Once temp get up to 212 or so they rapidly fall to 204 as the fan kicks up speed. Not sure why this is happening. The only diffence is that I have 1 bottle of Water Wetter rather than 2 that I had before. I plan to add another bottle and report back. But I think the important thing is that for those that plan to track the car the fan should be running the whole time so temps should be lower. Going to the track this weekend so we will see. I hope this helps those contemplating this modification.

You need to get the IS contact relay, fuse at the very least. The power wires may be okay but one needs to check the guage. The stock contact relay will burn out fairly quickly due to heat or may stop working at times. The fan motor controls may not repsond the same as the old fan which would require DME remap (PWM signal) of the fan..Cobb is working on this options it seems.

[David1]

I am not so sure that water wetter does much with modern coolant formulations. If using straight water, then yes for the additives.

[N54_Fan]

.

[N54_Fan]

.

[Gugs]

Did you bleed the system? You know our systems don't bleed the conventional way. Unless your Indy is well versed in our car specifically.....

The system bleeds electronically. You have to do a series of holding gas pedal with fan to mid way and turning Accessory on. Search for exactly procedure. I'm sure it will help.

WW is worthless.


And jb4 has maxcool feature for this exact reason. You might be better off switching to jb4. Maxcool mode turns all fans and cooling systems to full power.

[N54_Fan]

.

[Wduck]

Originally Posted by N54_Fan

Thanks for input. Yes indy mechanic is familiar with bleeding system. I have searched for diagrams of the famed relay and fuse. Anyone care to enlighten me as to this diagram? I can not find it. I doubt this is the reason for my current situation where fan does not turn on. The relay and fuse should help only with power surge because of higher wattage fan. To myunderstanding it should not assist in turning it on or off.

There has to be a relay and fuse in there somewhere. Without a relay you wouldn't have any power going to the fan. Too much current. a fuse would be in there someplace to protect everything. Unless it has a self resetting fuse/breaker.

[Orb]

Originally Posted by N54_Fan

Orb... thanks for the input. I was not able to figure out where is the fuse and relay are. 1 did not come with the fan assembly that I purchased. also it is not any of the diagrams I was able to find. I know people have talked about this before but I assumed it was part of the fan assembly. Do you have a part number or even a location or diagram as to where it would be? The stock fan had no relay or fuse that we saw either. Is this located in the fuse panel behind the glove box?

Thanks for the input.

If you follow the fan power wires it will take you directly to the relay. It is midway on the RH side of the engine bay. The fuse is in the fuse box and I believe it is 60 AMP (IS uses 100 AMP). I was going to do this and the only what to be sure the part will fit is checking the relay location on a 335IS at the dealer. I did look at the BMW Power kit instruction which give you some details which can be found in this forum.

I would check that your fuse is good and you redo the bleeding procedure and make sure you fluid is up to level before assuming anything else. Air in the system can cause the problem you are having.

As I mentioned, overloading a relay will cause it to stop working altogether which means no more fan and no fault code either until you overheat. When the relay cools down it will work again until it get so worn that it becomes eradicate. The relay works by powering up and which engages the electrical conects contacts so it normally an open curcuit. I would be very surprised if this is already gone but depend on how hard your running the car . One person may be fine for years while another person tracking their car may damage the replay within an hour. It is certainly something you want to keep an eye on in the latter case.

If you do not upgrade the wires use a lower fuse rating than the IS as this will save you from a fire. If you can tell me the gauge I can help determine what is safe but looking it in code book.

[N54_Fan]

.

[N54_Fan]

.

[335iSSA]

PPK fan uses a 125Amp fuse. Here are the install instructions.

[Orb]

Originally Posted by N54_Fan

Unless this is it there is no separate relay that I see. This looks like a relay to me. This is a similar plug that the stock fan assembly has. When I bought this it was the full fan assembly and fan shroud. Orb is this it?

Nope, keep going and follow the wires untill you get to it as it will have main power coming into the relay as well. I will dig up the power kit instructions as it shows you where The OEM relay and fuse is. BTW, the power kit it replaces the relay, power wires and fuse.

[N54_Fan]

.

[wonho]

I don't think 220F while standing still is that high at all. Your described temps are right around where mine are. Also, I don't think that the fan even turns on while you're driving at high speeds, like at the track.

Btw, adding more than one bottle of WW can be counter-productive in terms of cooling. Its primary goals are to resist corrosion, add viscosity, raise boiling point, and lower freezing point. Meanwhile the overall heat transfer capacity will be reduced. BUT ultimately the thin line should be drawn upon Your experience with how Your car behaves particularly.