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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > Replaced my brake pads in my 335!



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Mr. 5's Avatar Replaced my brake pads in my 335!
Mr. 5
08-04-2007
First of all, Do this at your own risk! Although this is somewhat an easy task, you are dealing with the brakes in your car! I take no responsibility for the mistakes that you make and this is just a guide for those who want to do the work themselves.
Now, since all of that mumbo jumbo is...
  #132  
By boleneger on 10-14-2010, 04:55 AM
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Hi I have replaced my rear brake pads in my 320i. My rears are a little different than in bigger 3ers. I have a single rotor non ventilated and a caliper as you can see in here
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...77&hg=34&fg=10
So I bought the textar pads 50euros plus a sensor 15euros. In pads set is everything you need the pads ,the sliders (number 8) and two bolts (the number 3 in the diagram).
So I removed the downside 3 bolt and rotated the caliper without moving the base and free the pads.
The most difficult part was to place the sensor on the pad. I was trying for an hour but the f@ckin thing did not want to seat properly. It needs the right angle and not too much force. Finally it fitted properly after much cursing .
Hope I help someone with my experience.
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  #133  
By hookah66 on 11-06-2010, 01:55 PM
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Kudos to Mr.5 for a fantastic write up. Just did my rear pads (waiting for my fronts) on my '09 e93 and here are my two cent contribution:
I am a 62 years old fart and I did it in one hour 15 min, if I managed it you certainly can do it. I used simple tools: you need a 7 mm Allen 3/8 socket, small & big pliers, small hammer, flat head screw driver, 17 mm 1/2 inch socket for wheel lugs and a torque wrench. For supplies I used ordinary Centric posiQuiet semi metallic, synthetic high temp brake grease and non chlorinated brake cleaner, one can per wheel. Spray clean the calipers and the rubber of the piston prior to pushing in the piston. Open the fluid reservoir. Use light hammer to gently tap the spring back into the slot of the floating caliper. Did not and do not recommend taking the carrier part out of wheel hub unless you are also replacing rotor. Look carefully for the shiny worn parts of the old pads, and only dab those points of contact with the high temp synt brake grease on the new pads. DO NOT USE any gluey stuff such as CRC or Permatex. German floating calipers are not designed for that, note that the oem pads are NOT COATED with that gluey gunk. NEVER use any anti-seize compounds on the threads of high tensile bolts (bmw oem bolts are rated high tensile strength), otherwise you will induce "creeping" and premature failure of the bolt will occur. Be careful to lubricate the shafts of the shear pins only, but not the thread part. Looks like the shear pins threads were coated with LocTite. Watch out for the brake sensor (passenger side) it got a tiny small metal clip that can get twisted or snapped off. Otherwise just follow the instructions as posted by Mr.5. I only removed the shear pins of the floating calipers not the 16mm high tensile bolts of the carrier part. The Centric posiQuiet pads are so smooth compared to the OEM pads, now my bimmer glides to a velvety stop. No squeaks at all. You must immediately "bed in" the new pads. Have fun.
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Last edited by hookah66; 11-06-2010 at 02:17 PM.
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  #134  
By dc5_champ88 on 11-08-2010, 02:58 PM
Excellent Diy
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  #135  
By turb0junkie on 07-12-2011, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lagger1 View Post
Just finished my rears. Simple

My only feedback is to grease your sliding pins. I was metal-to-metal on one side cause some bmw tech was too lazy to do this. Neither the clip or sensor picked up on this.

+1 on the sliding pins
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  #136  
By CLE-335 on 08-29-2011, 09:14 PM
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Fantastic post. Glad I skipped the maint plan on my CPO 335!
Last edited by CLE-335; 10-24-2011 at 07:24 PM.
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  #137  
By Supra98 on 10-08-2011, 10:03 AM
I'm just going to be putting some crc brake quiet on the pads. I won't need to compress the piston since i'm putting the old pads back on right?
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  #138  
By jeffvb9 on 10-13-2011, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supra98 View Post
I'm just going to be putting some crc brake quiet on the pads. I won't need to compress the piston since i'm putting the old pads back on right?
Do not put CRC brake quiet on these pads....pls read the post 2 up from here.
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  #139  
By lifeisgood on 10-17-2011, 02:49 AM
Tremendously useful! Just did mine today! I got 2 brand new brake pads and rotors in the front! Thank you again!
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  #140  
By cj79330i on 11-10-2011, 08:08 PM
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I did diy front brake pads. After the rapair including sensor, the light will not reset on my dashboard. I tried it so many times to reset it but still will not do it.
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  #141  
By cj79330i on 11-16-2011, 09:37 PM
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I did diy front brake pads replacement including sensor on my 2006 330i sport sedan, after all it's done brake light warning on my dassboard will not reset. I tried so many attempt to reset it still will not do it. Any comments?
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  #142  
By pharmboyrx on 01-06-2012, 04:14 PM
I'm planning on doing my F & R pads and rotors tomorrow. I noticed nobody mentioned bleeding the brakes. I just changed my brake fluid a couple of months ago so I won't be doing it with this job. As long as I keep the level appropriately high in the reservoir, will I be able to avoid this step? I won't have help and I don't have a pressure bleeder available.
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  #143  
By Lozzatron on 02-02-2012, 11:33 AM
awesome thread will remember to bed my brakes
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  #144  
By Cbozz on 02-11-2012, 07:45 PM
Did you replace the rotor too? How did you measure it?
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  #145  
By hookah66 on 03-15-2012, 11:45 AM
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just changed to AKEBONO EURO CERAMIC PADS

This is my fourth set of pad replacement, I got about 32K miles... and so far it has been the best replacemet!!! Very low dust, extremely quiet and ultra smooth. Good stopping and no fading. I am very happy... finally it is braking better than the OEM without the dust. I yanked out the ATE OEM pads at around 5K miles due to its annoying black dust. Replaced with ultra high performance EBC Red which was not suitable for every day driving and VERY loud squeaks when cold. Changed to Centric PosiQuiet semi metallic, which were low dust but stopping distance was not par with the OEM ATE's. I read about Akebono's but could not find the correct stock for the e93 larger front calipers last year, but now I got discounted from Tire Rack which fits the larger floating front calipers of e93 series. The Akebono's are so far the best made replacement pads with integrally mounted fabric anti rattling shims in the inner front pads. Also the cut outs for the brake sensors are a perfect fit. The high temperature anti rattling grease that comes with the kit is a must. The sensor snaps in without any damages, unlike the EBC which I had to replace with new sensors. The Centric PosiQuiet were low dust, so this time around the calipers were a lot cleaner than when I had the OEM ATE's. I definitely recommend these pads for e93 series bimmers.
Last edited by hookah66; 03-15-2012 at 11:56 AM.
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  #146  
By 335i101 on 05-08-2012, 11:00 PM
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So, I am guessing you changed pads for dust/performance/squeal reasons.

Maybe I am mistaken, but if people are replacing pads cuz they are worn, they should replace the rotors as well, correct??

Can't resurface our rotors
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  #147  
By lux.sh on 05-14-2012, 07:18 PM
Can anyone confirm if this DIY can be used for 2006 E90 330i sedan? I assume its very similar..
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  #148  
By Tate325xi on 07-13-2012, 05:22 PM
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How hard is it to remove the caliper bolts? I am trying with a 3/8 socket wrench and am having a helluva time. I applied PB Blaster without any avail, do I have to buy a breaker bar?
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  #149  
By hookah66 on 07-14-2012, 10:50 AM
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bmw Ate OEM floating calipers ...

From my limited knowledge, I do not see any major changes in the configuration of the Ate floating calipers. From my 2002 e46 328xi to 2009 e93 328i convertible, the basic set up of the floating calipers, the rotor and the pads are identical. Just make sure the parts are specific to your built year, there is major variations between the production lines. So you must to furnish your VIN number prior to ordering any brake components. The bolts that retain the floating calipers require good torque to loose them, you must do on a lift in order to get the appropriate leverage, and make sure you torque back to the spec's without any anti-sizing compounds, for these are high tensile bolts. The rotors are designed for eazy pop out for they are retained with just one single torx. I guess it is common practice to change the rotors for those who track. You do not have to change the rotors if it is not scoured, not pitted or uneven worn. Mine are approaching 47K and I do not get any fluttering or shimmering at all. You need at least a 1/2 socket drive with deep sockets whenever working on any of undercarriage components. A 3/8 drive socket will not give you enough force to loosen high tensile bolts.
Last edited by hookah66; 07-14-2012 at 11:00 AM.
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  #150  
By Tate325xi on 07-16-2012, 12:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hookah66 View Post
From my limited knowledge, I do not see any major changes in the configuration of the Ate floating calipers. From my 2002 e46 328xi to 2009 e93 328i convertible, the basic set up of the floating calipers, the rotor and the pads are identical.
The E46 328 was never built in xi configuration, and the 328 was discontinued before MY 2002...
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  #151  
By hookah66 on 07-16-2012, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tate325xi View Post
The E46 328 was never built in xi configuration, and the 328 was discontinued before MY 2002...
you stand correct... it was a e46 325xi
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  #152  
By omerfar23 on 07-17-2012, 07:34 AM
do you open the master brake reservoir under the hood before you start the job?
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  #153  
By hookah66 on 07-17-2012, 02:03 PM
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helps to open main reservoir

Yes, it definitely helps to evacuate little bit of hydraulic fluid as to prevent spillage when you "squeeze" the pads in to facilitate its removal from the calipers.
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