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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > Ask a Professional Detailer...



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      10-15-2012, 11:19 AM   #1717
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I think I have leatherette not leather
The Leatherique Prestine Clean and Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil combo worked incredibly well on leatherette, coated leathers, leather and more! You'll love the results and you can see it in action here in Todd Cooperider's Leatherique How To blog post.

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      10-19-2012, 02:11 PM   #1718
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Just had a mtech bumper installed as my original stock e92 was bumped into and the person paid out of pocket.

I know not to wax/seal for 30 days, however I was wondering what is safe?

I use optimum shampoo and ONR as a quick detailer, wondering if those are 'safe' to use for the first 30 days?
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      11-20-2012, 12:46 PM   #1719
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Originally Posted by divisionbell77 View Post
Just had a mtech bumper installed as my original stock e92 was bumped into and the person paid out of pocket.

I know not to wax/seal for 30 days, however I was wondering what is safe?

I use optimum shampoo and ONR as a quick detailer, wondering if those are 'safe' to use for the first 30 days?
In general you don't want to use anything that protects the surface for at least 30+ days. Therefore in general you should be fine washing with the ONR, clay bar and most polishes too. Some quick detailers are fine if they don't have protective properties in them. So something like the Poorboy's World Spray and Wipe is fine as it's just meant for quick cleanings. However I wouldn't use anything with wax, polymers, sealant, etc. in it. I hope this helps!

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      12-17-2012, 11:56 PM   #1720
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Hey DI,

I just got into an 06 Monaco Blue 330i a few weeks ago and love the car. The car was taken care of by the previous owner and seems to have only light swirls and just a couple small scratches. I would like to build a detailing kit and wanted advice on which products to start with. After reading up I would like to include the PC 7424xp polisher and a foam gun. I would also need leather care products. the products i have now are standard auto parts shampoo and towels so i have to start from scratch. Thanks for your time.
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      12-23-2012, 05:33 AM   #1721
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i am seriously learning sooo much in this epic thread
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      12-26-2012, 02:02 PM   #1722
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Hello. Anyone know what would be great for cleaning the woodtrim? Any help is greatly appreciated!
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      12-26-2012, 05:57 PM   #1723
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New X3 prep in January?

About to take delivery of my new ALpine White X3 and I know I'm supposed to seal/wax it right away but its January and I do not have access to heated work area so think that is going to be a problem. Would you recommend my best option is to have it professionally detailed?

If so, have never paid for professional detailing before. I know certain products are better for white cars, do I trust them to use the best product to use or should I be specific about what I want (not necessarily specifying a particular brand but stating that I want one thats good for white, high gloss, etc)? Don't know the protocol, and don't want to insult their expertise, but if I'm going to pay good money for a pro job I think I should be happy with results.

Also I read best protocol is to clay, seal, wax. Is this part of normal detailer protocol, or do I need to specify if I want this? If this is not normal protocol then I guess I'll be paying more for this level of detail.

Any advice appreciated.
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      12-29-2012, 05:48 PM   #1724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wendellg85
About to take delivery of my new ALpine White X3 and I know I'm supposed to seal/wax it right away but its January and I do not have access to heated work area so think that is going to be a problem. Would you recommend my best option is to have it professionally detailed?

If so, have never paid for professional detailing before. I know certain products are better for white cars, do I trust them to use the best product to use or should I be specific about what I want (not necessarily specifying a particular brand but stating that I want one thats good for white, high gloss, etc)? Don't know the protocol, and don't want to insult their expertise, but if I'm going to pay good money for a pro job I think I should be happy with results.

Also I read best protocol is to clay, seal, wax. Is this part of normal detailer protocol, or do I need to specify if I want this? If this is not normal protocol then I guess I'll be paying more for this level of detail.

Any advice appreciated.
If you get it professionally detailed go to someone like Phil at Detailers Domain.
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      01-03-2013, 01:04 PM   #1725
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Originally Posted by nelsonvr6 View Post
Hey DI,

I just got into an 06 Monaco Blue 330i a few weeks ago and love the car. The car was taken care of by the previous owner and seems to have only light swirls and just a couple small scratches. I would like to build a detailing kit and wanted advice on which products to start with. After reading up I would like to include the PC 7424xp polisher and a foam gun. I would also need leather care products. the products i have now are standard auto parts shampoo and towels so i have to start from scratch. Thanks for your time.
Thank you for the message and I apologize to all for the slow response just been crazy busy with the holiday rush. Congrats on the new ride! I'd be happy to help you really make the paint pop! You are on the right track probably just a light polishing will be enough followed by a coating of protection to enhance the paint.

For the paint a buffer will be a huge asset. I'd highly recommend the Porter Cable 7424XP Random Orbital Buffer and a Lake Country 5" Backing Plate for Porter Cable 7424 XP. There are no wrong sizes but the 5" backing plate and 5.5" pads is often what I recommend the most if you have to pick just one. I'd suggest the Menzerna Super Finish Polish SF 4000 (PO106FA Nano Polish) and two Lake Country White Polishing Pads. This will remove fine swirls, oxidation, etc. so the paint is more optically clear and you get that deeper reflection. Next apply a sealant with the Lake Country Blue Fine Finishing Pad to protect the paint for about 4 - 6 months. The Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant is a great choice that looks outstanding and is very durable.

I think this two step routine would be a great boost to the appearance and be easy to work with. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

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      01-03-2013, 01:12 PM   #1726
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Hello. Anyone know what would be great for cleaning the woodtrim? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Wood trim is often a coated plastic that you can clean with most interior cleaners like the Einszett 1Z Cockpit Premium or the 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover combined with a clean microfiber towel (DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel Blue).

If you are seeing ultra fine scratches and swirls in the finish it can be polished to some extent, but please note this coating is not nearly as thick as the exterior clear coat so don't over polish it. I'd suggest a very fine polish like the Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish or the Menzerna Micro Polish SF 4500 (PO85RD). Apply a small amount on a microfiber towel or foam app and buff with light to medium pressure, then wipe away the excess product with a clean microfiber towel.

Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

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      01-03-2013, 01:34 PM   #1727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wendellg85 View Post
About to take delivery of my new ALpine White X3 and I know I'm supposed to seal/wax it right away but its January and I do not have access to heated work area so think that is going to be a problem. Would you recommend my best option is to have it professionally detailed?

If so, have never paid for professional detailing before. I know certain products are better for white cars, do I trust them to use the best product to use or should I be specific about what I want (not necessarily specifying a particular brand but stating that I want one thats good for white, high gloss, etc)? Don't know the protocol, and don't want to insult their expertise, but if I'm going to pay good money for a pro job I think I should be happy with results.

Also I read best protocol is to clay, seal, wax. Is this part of normal detailer protocol, or do I need to specify if I want this? If this is not normal protocol then I guess I'll be paying more for this level of detail.

Any advice appreciated.
Unfortunately there is no true norms in our industry. You can pay a lot for terrible work it really just depends on the particular place and detailer. Your best bet is to read through our detailing guide and educate your self so you can ask good questions. The more knowledge you have the better you can understand the value of the service they provide. Each place can most likely do whatever you ask, but costs and quality will vary. Good work will not be cheap, but usually it's well worth it. For a new vehicle they may have a set package to offer you where they protect the interior and exterior really well. At a minimum I would request they seal it after a thorough cleaning. A coat of wax can help add more protection and shine but it may not last too long in the winter months. For detailers in the Philly area there are several options on our Find A Detailer Map. I know Oakes Detailing does good work in that area too http://oakesdetail.com/. Good luck!

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      01-12-2013, 10:47 PM   #1728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Unfortunately there is no true norms in our industry. You can pay a lot for terrible work it really just depends on the particular place and detailer. Your best bet is to read through our detailing guide and educate your self so you can ask good questions. The more knowledge you have the better you can understand the value of the service they provide. Each place can most likely do whatever you ask, but costs and quality will vary. Good work will not be cheap, but usually it's well worth it. For a new vehicle they may have a set package to offer you where they protect the interior and exterior really well. At a minimum I would request they seal it after a thorough cleaning. A coat of wax can help add more protection and shine but it may not last too long in the winter months. For detailers in the Philly area there are several options on our Find A Detailer Map. I know Oakes Detailing does good work in that area too http://oakesdetail.com/. Good luck!

Greg @ DI
Thanks Greg!
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      01-20-2013, 05:29 PM   #1729
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Chemical Guys CWG + FoamMaster ratio

Hi

Forgive me if this has been asked before. I searched but couldn't find an answer.

I have Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss and a Gilmour FoamMaster. Could you tell me the ratio of CWG to use for

1. maintenance washes
2. stripping LSP

when used with the FoamMaster?

Also at what setting should the gun be at when using the ratio's recommended?

Thanks in advance
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      01-23-2013, 12:20 PM   #1730
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Hi

Forgive me if this has been asked before. I searched but couldn't find an answer.

I have Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss and a Gilmour FoamMaster. Could you tell me the ratio of CWG to use for

1. maintenance washes
2. stripping LSP

when used with the FoamMaster?

Also at what setting should the gun be at when using the ratio's recommended?

Thanks in advance
There is a good article about the Foamaster and Citrus Wash and Clear in our AAP Blog. I know you have the Citrus Wash and Gloss but it has the same exact concentration so the dilution ratios are the same.

.5 oz per gallon will not strip protection
2 oz per gallon of water will strip protection

If you put it on Setting E you'll get the richest concentration of whatever you put in the reservoir. To not strip the protection I believe you would use about .5 ounces of CWC and 11.5 ounces of water. With so little shampoo being used I fear you may not get enough lubricity for safe washing, but you're welcome to try. I personally don't recommend this shampoo for maintenance washes with the foam gun for this reason. For stripping shampoos the minimum shampoo you would use on Setting E I believe is 2 ounces of shampoo and 10 ounces of water. I personally use a bit more to shampoo to be certain it's strong enough to strip old protection. I hope I got my ratios right and I hope this was helpful!

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      02-04-2013, 10:39 PM   #1731
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whats the best way to keep the bmw performance steering wheel clean (suede)?
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      02-05-2013, 06:17 AM   #1732
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I have a 2007 bmw 530i with the style 123 wheels and they are a PAIN in the ass to keep clean. I recently switched my brake pads to HAWKS and it has significantly reduced the amount of brake dust. I want to clean the wheels really well and since they are off the car, I figured this would be the best time. There is a LOT of brake dust and road grime that has set into the wheels. I am going to order the following:

1) Sonax wheel cleaner
2) Claybar the wheels
3) Opticoat Sealant or PB Wheel Sealant

My question is, which sealant is better for long term durability for a daily driver. Also, should I polish the wheels before applying the sealant? Thank You!!
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      02-06-2013, 02:14 PM   #1733
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new car

Ok.....so I am completely lost reading the post. My knowledge of this area does not exceed that of Turtle wax, and I may be giving myself too much credit. I have a new vehicle(E90 mystic blue), and purchased a "natural" wax product from BMW. What would be your recommendations be going forward on caring for the car to someone who's knowledge is little. I turned down the "teflon" product offered by the dealership. I do not drive the vehicle in inclimate weather. How do you feel about the "california dusters".
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      02-11-2013, 03:44 PM   #1734
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whats the best way to keep the bmw performance steering wheel clean (suede)?
Suede is probably one of the more challenging surfaces to care for because it is so sensitive. For general cleaning take a soft brush and lightly brush the surface. If you have stains or build ups I use a very light amount of the 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover on it with a soft brush. In general you want to avoid using cleaners or moisture so again use as little as possible. When you are done brush the area gently to help remove moisture and leave the windows or doors open to help circulate air and dry the surface.

The best preventative measure is to make sure you're hands are clean entering the vehicle, so avoid lotions, make up, etc. Good luck!

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      02-11-2013, 03:53 PM   #1735
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Originally Posted by houbmw View Post
I have a 2007 bmw 530i with the style 123 wheels and they are a PAIN in the ass to keep clean. I recently switched my brake pads to HAWKS and it has significantly reduced the amount of brake dust. I want to clean the wheels really well and since they are off the car, I figured this would be the best time. There is a LOT of brake dust and road grime that has set into the wheels. I am going to order the following:

1) Sonax wheel cleaner
2) Claybar the wheels
3) Opticoat Sealant or PB Wheel Sealant

My question is, which sealant is better for long term durability for a daily driver. Also, should I polish the wheels before applying the sealant? Thank You!!
Glad to hear you're going to give those wheels a thorough cleaning and protective coating. After the cleaning and clay bar I would still recommend polishing them with something like the P21S Finish Restorer to help remove oxidation and embedded contaminants. I would almost guarantee it will make a big difference.

For protection the Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating will definitely be more durable. This is an awesome way to preserve the wheels. I would also recommend you check out the 22ple VM1 Rim and Metal Coating, which is similar to Opti-Coat but it seems to release contaminants better. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

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      02-11-2013, 04:16 PM   #1736
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E90raw View Post
Ok.....so I am completely lost reading the post. My knowledge of this area does not exceed that of Turtle wax, and I may be giving myself too much credit. I have a new vehicle(E90 mystic blue), and purchased a "natural" wax product from BMW. What would be your recommendations be going forward on caring for the car to someone who's knowledge is little. I turned down the "teflon" product offered by the dealership. I do not drive the vehicle in inclimate weather. How do you feel about the "california dusters".
We all have to start somewhere and I'd be happy to help you get started. To get some of the basics down I'd highly recommend reading our detailing guide and Ask a Pro Blog, both are tremendous resources.

Turning the the "teflon" package down was probably a very good decision. They usually contain a lot of fine print so I believe you made the right choice. In general I'm not a huge fan of the dusters which is why we don't carry them but I understand it can be helpful to those who are not absolute perfectionists about the paint.

Some very brief tips for you to get you started on top of the detailing guide and blog posts linked above.
- never visit a car wash with bristles
- washing and drying is where most swirls (curved micro-scratches in the clear coat) come from so pay really good attention to your wash process and products
- Apply a coat of protection on a semi-regular schedule. Most natural waxes protect for about 3 - 6 weeks so apply them more frequently. A synthetic wax (aka sealant) can give you 4 - 6 months of protection so that is usually a better option for daily drivers.

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      02-12-2013, 02:36 PM   #1737
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wax

Thank you for getting back.....and thanks for the patience. I know you get alot of questions. I reviewed your website. If I purchase a carnuba wax, can I apply and remove by hand? I have always waxed/dewaxed my vehicles along the cars "lines". Is this proper? Does the dealership use sealants, etc when they prep the car, and if so, what effect will this have on my care, and when will this wear off. My car is a 2011 brought into service in May 2012.
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      02-13-2013, 11:10 AM   #1738
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Thank you for getting back.....and thanks for the patience. I know you get alot of questions. I reviewed your website. If I purchase a carnuba wax, can I apply and remove by hand? I have always waxed/dewaxed my vehicles along the cars "lines". Is this proper? Does the dealership use sealants, etc when they prep the car, and if so, what effect will this have on my care, and when will this wear off. My car is a 2011 brought into service in May 2012.
Glad to help out so no worries at all.

Generally speaking dealerships, even high end ones, often use very generic detailing supplies that will not protect very long (maybe 1 - 2 months). Each place varies so I'm not sure what they use for protection. Generally they are focused on speed, cost of supplies and making the car look good for a few days. Dealerships sometimes use products with heavy fillers to help hide fine imperfections when a customer picks up their car. Anything they applied would be long gone by now. A good wax, which most dealerships do not use, will last about 1 - 2 months and a good sealant will last 4 - 6 months in my experiences. If you want to be extra safe making sure no protection is left on the surface wash with the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash. This citrus based shampoo removes old sealant and wax.

You can apply sealants and waxes with the "lines" of the car or in a circular motion generally speaking. Assuming you have properly cleaned the surface and you're using paint safe supplies (applicator and towels) it shouldn't have much impact. You can apply sealants and waxes and get very similar results to what a buffer would do. Polishes are the step where you really want the added power of a buffer.

If you need any recommendations please don't hesitate to ask! Don't forget we have 20% off through 2/15 with the code VDAY13. Take care!

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