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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > 2E82 code--electric coolant pump-shutdown



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      10-21-2011, 03:53 PM   #1
rxtasy
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2E82 code--electric coolant pump-shutdown

anyone had this? how long before pump goes? i believe this explains why my aux fan runs high a few minutes after startup. it will go away if i shutdown and startup again and sometimes just stop on its own. also, when I shutdown car I have been hearing a whrrring/winding sound.

anyway, anyone else have this code?
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      10-21-2011, 05:18 PM   #2
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2006 BMW 325i  [4.58]
SI B12 04 05
Engine Electrical Systems October 2008
Technical Service
This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI B12 04 05 July 2007.

[NEW] designates changes to this revision

SUBJECT
Check Engine Lamp Illuminated and/or Vehicle Overheats MODEL
[NEW] E83 (X3) with N52K engine
[NEW] E85 and E86 (Z4) with N52 engine

[NEW] E70 (X5) with N52K engine

[NEW] E90, E91, E92 and E93 (3 Series) with N51, N52 and N52K engines

[NEW] E60 and E61 (5 Series) with N52 and N52K engine

[NEW] All models above produced up to December 31st, 2006

SITUATION
The customer complains that the Check Engine lamp is illuminated and/or that the vehicle overheated. One or more of the following fault codes is stored in the DME:
FC 2E81 Electric coolant pump, speed deviation, speed outside the tolerance

FC 2E82 Electric coolant pump cutoff, over-current

FC 2E83 Electric coolant pump, power-reduced operation, dry run

FC 2E84 Electric coolant pump, communication

FC 2E85 Electric coolant pump, communication, no voltage at emergency operation input of pump

CAUSE
One of the following can be the cause:
- Insufficient power supply
- Insufficient grounding
- BSD signal not present
- Defective electric coolant water pump
- Electric coolant pump water pump processor disturbance

PROCEDURE A
This procedure only applies to vehicles produced after September 1, 2005. Both faults must be stored; if any other combination of the faults is stored, refer to procedure B. - FC 2E81 Electric coolant pump, speed deviation, speed outside the tolerance
- FC 2E85 Electric coolant pump, communication, no voltage at emergency operation input of pump
1. Remove both battery cables from the battery for 15 minutes .
2. After reconnecting the battery cables, clear the vehicle fault memory and ensure that the electric coolant pump operates using the bleeding procedure, described at the end of this bulletin.
PROCEDURE B
This procedure applies to all vehicles with any combination of faults listed below.
FC 2E81 Electric coolant pump, speed deviation, speed outside the tolerance

FC 2E82 Electric coolant pump cutoff, over-current

FC 2E83 Electric coolant pump, power-reduced operation, dry run

FC 2E84 Electric coolant pump, communication

FC 2E85 Electric coolant pump, communication, no voltage at emergency operation input of pump

NOTE: All measurements should be performed with the battery charger connected to the vehicle. 1. Measure the following at connector X6035 on the electric coolant water pump: - E90 and E91 - Pin 1 (fuse F09) and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 12 volts
- E60 and E61 - Pin 1 (fuse F23 and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 12 volts
- Pin 2 (fuse F02) and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 12 volts
- Pin 3 BSD signal (DME Pin 26) and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 7.5 - 8.5 volts - If any of the above measurements are incorrect, continue troubleshooting using the DIS Plus or GT1 to determine the source of the problem.
- If all of the above measurements are correct, proceed to step 2.


2. Replace the electric coolant water pump (PN 11 51 7 546 994) in accordance with Repair Instruction RA 11 51 000.
3. After performing any service work requiring draining of the coolant, the system must be bled to ensure that there are no air pockets present. The system can be bled using the DISplus/GT-1 or by following a special procedure. To bleed the system, follow the procedure described at the end of this bulletin.

BLEEDING (VENTING) THE COOLING SYSTEM

NOTE: BMW recommends filling the cooling system for protection against freezing down to -34 degrees F (-37 degrees C) ; this is an antifreeze ratio of 50% antifreeze and 50% water. In severely cold areas, the antifreeze can be increased to 60%, which provides freezing protection down to -62 degrees F (-52 degrees C) . Do not exceed a 60% ratio of antifreeze.
The specified antifreeze ratio is important, since an insufficient amount would impair antifreezing and corrosion-inhibiting protection. An excessive amount would not improve freezing protection, but would instead reduce freezing protection. At all times, the antifreeze and water should be premixed before pouring into the engine. If premixing is not performed, damage will occur to the water pump assembly.

NOTE: Always connect a battery charger while performing the bleeding process. 1. Fill the system with coolant via the expansion tank (AGB). Top up the coolant level to the lower edge of the expansion tank.
2. Close the expansion tank.
3. Switch on the ignition.
4. Set heating to the maximum (temperature); switch on the blower (lowest stage).
5. Press the accelerator pedal module to the floor for at least 10 seconds . The engine must NOT be started.
6. Bleeding via EWP takes approximately 12 minutes . Then check the coolant level in the expansion tank; top up to the MAX marking if necessary.
7. Check the cooling circuit and drain the plugs for leaks.
8. If the procedure needs to be repeated several times, allow the DME to completely de-energize (remove the ignition key for approx. 3 minutes ) and then repeat the procedure, starting from item 3.


Read more: scanned a 2006 525xi and codes 2ef5,2e81,2a82,2e82 present have - JustAnswer http://www.justanswer.com/bmw/2ds7s-...#ixzz1bSPt36Zs
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      10-22-2011, 04:30 PM   #3
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Schedule a time to get the water pump, bolt set, and thermostat replaced at your local independent mechanic. I've done several lately. Flush and refill the coolant, and reset the CBS for the coolant.
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      10-23-2011, 11:21 AM   #4
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^ x2 we had 3 E90s in for the same thing on Friday. Did about 5 last week, I'm hoping mine doesn't decide to take a crap for atleast a few more months.
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      10-23-2011, 02:46 PM   #5
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what would you say if i told you a couple of weeks ago I brought it to my indie mech and he said i needed a whole new fan. so I paid 800 bucks for this misdiagnosis. it appears he didnt even check for codes
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      10-25-2011, 06:42 PM   #6
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Oh crap. That's what I'd say.

Or, "Get yourself a new mechanic."
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      10-04-2012, 09:02 AM   #7
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Same problem on my 335i 2007 after 74.000km
Water pump dead
Engine FAN always on.
Error found 2E81, 2E82

Unknow the causes.
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      11-21-2012, 12:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franzzz View Post
Same problem on my 335i 2007 after 74.000km
Water pump dead
Engine FAN always on.
Error found 2E81, 2E82

Unknow the causes.
Franzzz, I have these problems now too, what was your fix?
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      11-21-2012, 03:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom (Atl) View Post
Franzzz, I have these problems now too, what was your fix?
700 euro.
New water pump and new thermostat

All components are news and installed by BMW last month.
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      11-21-2012, 11:02 PM   #10
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I just DIY'd this yesterday, new stat, pump and coolant. Also did the bleed proceedure. Do I need to reset anything on the ECU before I use it? I don't have a code reader....
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      11-23-2012, 10:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rxtasy View Post
what would you say if i told you a couple of weeks ago I brought it to my indie mech and he said i needed a whole new fan. so I paid 800 bucks for this misdiagnosis. it appears he didnt even check for codes
I would say your mechanic should foot the cost. He is not getting paid a perfessional wage to do shotgun maintenance and this not that difficult to figure out even if you don't have access to fault isolation flow charts. Did he also try to say that probably had to be replaced anyway? He should at least do the waterpump/t-stat at cost for parts only.

If your fan is always going, I dunno how that equates to needing a new fan. It shutting down is normal depending on the coolant temp. There are things that you might have to kinda guess, but I don't think this was one of them.

Last edited by Casca; 11-23-2012 at 11:02 AM.
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