[SA320]

Originally Posted by makkan00

I will be using mine as bowl or paper weight.

Hahaha! Hope you get what you want in the end Sameer.

The good thing with this is that you don't need to open the petrol flap yourself. Who needs coding

[Mr Singh]

Originally Posted by Rudz

Here you go Mak, straight from the horses mouth

If you are wanting deep clean hard hitting bass, with 1000W, I would look to a standard Q15. Since you have the space, a ported Q tuned to 30Hz in 4 cuft would work well. An SSD is normally rated at 800W, and the copper coil allows things to drop deeper and cleaner for an SSD, but it doesnt increase thermal capacity. If you are easy on things, saving $$$ with the SSD and copper coil would work. If you are tougher on things, then the Q15 standard would do great.

Please let me know if I can help with anything else.

Thanks,
Scott
Fi Car Audio

Apparently there is a copper coil mod for a Fi SSD that allows deeper bass ? I've not researched this though

The Copper coil is heavier, this increases the moving mass which in turn increases Mms. The regular round wire ally coils are lighter so little better if you want more of an aggressive sound and lower Qts (more suited to vented alignments).

There's lots of options with the Fi subs. I am the distributor for Fi Car Audio and Ascendant Audio for UK and Europe. Some that know me will know my relationship with Scott has been going 10 yrs strong back when he ran RE.

I still think your all mad though, sealed enclosures in a saloon. IB is where its at.. Of course if you want some serious SPL then a vented or sealed alignment will deliver the goods.

Cheers.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by Mr Singh

I still think your all mad though, sealed enclosures in a saloon. IB is where its at.. Of course if you want some serious SPL then a vented or sealed alignment will deliver the goods.

Cheers.

Mr Singh
Appreciate your comments. W7 is fitted in a vented box (in the video) and does not sound as I anticipated.

I have fitted Type R alpine in sealed enclosure though and it sounds decent.

Can you kindly explain what is 'IB'?

Considering E90 saloon and having box in the boot what can we do to reduce the rattling from bootlids / trims/ fuel cap?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Suraj_320

Hahaha! Hope you get what you want in the end Sameer.

The good thing with this is that you don't need to open the petrol flap yourself. Who needs coding

Thanks bud! I hope it does not blow the fuel cap though.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by Sparky68

Door draught excluder.

Where should I fit it sparky?

[Rudz]

Originally Posted by Mr Singh

The Copper coil is heavier, this increases the moving mass which in turn increases Mms. The regular round wire ally coils are lighter so little better if you want more of an aggressive sound and lower Qts (more suited to vented alignments).

There's lots of options with the Fi subs. I am the distributor for Fi Car Audio and Ascendant Audio for UK and Europe. Some that know me will know my relationship with Scott has been going 10 yrs strong back when he ran RE.

I still think your all mad though, sealed enclosures in a saloon. IB is where its at.. Of course if you want some serious SPL then a vented or sealed alignment will deliver the goods.

Cheers.

Thanks Mr Singh, any deals about for the forum members on the Fi Q's or RE XXX's ? :d

[mob17]

IB = Infinate Baffle

[AWBimmer]

+ 1 on any forum deals... FI SSD / Q? Which is better for overall SQ with good thumpy bass in a sealed / stealth enclosure?

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by mob17

IB = Infinate Baffle

Thanks Bud.



Inifinite Baffle in my layman language is: Dubai's way of fitting subs.

And that is what I had done on my first car.

[mob17]

IB must sound amazing. I've always wanted to avoid it as its quite a bit of work, especially with no ski hole. But i guess its worth it!

[Mr Singh]

SSD vs Q. Well the Q I would class as a super sub, so falls into the category of W7s and the like. Though it has balls, big balls. In my experience it will handle way more power and abuse that the W7 ever could. From an SQ point of view, there both a little different. JL spent alot of time and money trying to produce a near flat BL vs Xmax curve, much like how the RE XXX was. Linearity. It comes at a cost of low motor force and a slightly neutral sound, i.e. lacking warmth. Some people like it and no matter what you do there ears have trouble adjusting to it or out of it.

The Q is a parabolic curve driver, therefore its based on having high excursion and big motor force. However the motor will peak, so you'll have on paper more 'distortion'. But to the trained ear that simply means more warmth and smoothness. The Q though is all that and extremely articulate. Its infact our best selling HT (Home Theatre) driver, along with the IB3s.

The SSD is like a baby Q, so less power handling/motor force. Its a solid sub with a fantastic SQ.

Choose the sub which most fits the power you have available, and that works around your budget.

IB might not be for everyone but from an SQ point of view its the ultimate choice. SPL is compromised but sub bass is incredible, as low as 18Hz and very audiable at that. Making a sealed driver do this is not impossible with some EQ'ing applied but thats what we would call being 'coloured' so not true to the source.

Discount wise, i'm not sure this is the right place to discuss it as clearly could come across as breaking the rules. Though feel free to contact me through the right channels and i'll see what I can do.

Cheers.

[MEGA]

Makkan you need to get brownbread / dynamat and do all the inner skins so that the only place bass can escape is into the cabin and not through the panels

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by MEGA

Makkan you need to get brownbread / dynamat and do all the inner skins so that the only place bass can escape is into the cabin and not through the panels

Cheers mate. Will give it a go.

[onetwentie]

Mak

interesting thread! just looking into some sound upgrades too and may call upon your knowledge and skills!

so what's the current state of play? did you keep it or sell it? I know you've got some stuff FS currently.

lovely shine on the black E90 BTW!

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by onetwentie

Mak

interesting thread! just looking into some sound upgrades too and may call upon your knowledge and skills!

so what's the current state of play? did you keep it or sell it? I know you've got some stuff FS currently.

lovely shine on the black E90 BTW!

Dumped JL sub.
Got 1000W Type R sub. Working on how to get max out of it with minimum distortion.

[makkan00]

Few updates:

I have replaced XD 400/4 with XD 600/6. Beauty of XD 400/4 is that it can go under the boot trim and it can take differential input directly from head unit.
Switching to XD 600/6, I had to find a way to fit it somewhere permanently. General consensus is to fit it where OEM CD changer sits.
I did not want to use ‘just’ Velcro to fit it there. I wanted it to be fitted with OEM screws. I thought to try wood there. I took few measurements and worked on wood to come up with permanent fixture. After few trial and errors, this is the result.

In regards to wiring, I ran wires from under seat subs to amp and from amp to subs and front mids with XD 400/4. (as another forum member is doing.)
However with 6 channel amp, I worked and created a new harness (same principle as Technic’s harness).
Harness is shown in the photo


Weather was not good today, but I had no other option than to install it in this weather.

Here are few photos of installation.



Next plan is to fit the sub in Dubai’s method (AKA Infinite Baffle). I have had 2 X 12 inches subs fitted in rear speaker’s shelf when I lived in Dubai. In my last 2 cars here, I used the boot enclosures for subs and never got the results as good as IB. Though in one of my car I had 3X10 inches subs fitted in single enclosure and that was earth shaking experiment.
I am hoping that I will find a way to fit the sub in BMW’s rear speaker shelf and keeping the invasion to minimum level.

I have created another shelf for sub amp and going for alpine amp and sub this time.
Here is the photo of alpine amp


I have to check if side boot panel can go back with the alpine amp. In case if any problem arises, I can fit the alpine amp on lower shelf and JL amp on upper shelf.

This is it for the time being. And fitting rear sub, that may happen around xmas time due to time constraints in November and early December.

[mistryn]

Looking good with the progress there, how did you secure the wood panel into the boot? did you drill new holes?

Also one thing that baffles me is when using a 6 channel amp why does the harness need to be modified?
to connect the second amp would you use the pre amp output amp on the JL amp to connect the Alpine amp?

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by mistryn

Looking good with the progress there, how did you secure the wood panel into the boot? did you drill new holes?

Everything is done to keep OEM stuff. I have drilled holes in the wood where OEM screws (of CD changer cage) sits.

Originally Posted by mistryn

Also one thing that baffles me is when using a 6 channel amp why does the harness need to be modified?

With 6 channels amp, you intend to amp rears and therefore you'd require RCA for rears as well. So for that you would require slightly different harness.

Originally Posted by mistryn

to connect the second amp would you use the pre amp output amp on the JL amp to connect the Alpine amp?

One disadvantage of XD 600/6 is that it has no pre- out. Only 6 channels input.
XD400/4 has pre-out which I was using for sub amp.
My alpine amp has pre out. I can send the signals to alpine amp first and then to JL. But in my case, alpine amp has separate power switch (in cabin) and it will be only turned on when little one is not going to be in the car.

So in this instance, I will be using Y adaptors to extend the signals to JL and Alpine amp.

[makkan00]

JL 10W7 and 1043D side by side:
(500-750W) vs (500-1000W)

[makkan00]

Silly me....but my plan is to fit 1043D there:

[AWBimmer]

IB buddy, gonna be crazy!

[Mr Singh]

For the Alpine to work in Free-air Qts must be above 0.65-0.7 to work in IB applications.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by Mr Singh

For the Alpine to work in Free-air Qts must be above 0.65-0.7 to work in IB applications.

Many thanks Mr Singh.
Manual of alpine suggests the same as you mentioned.

Is E90 trunk not more than 0.7?