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MrQuickR1's Avatar Eccentric Shaft Sensor Replacement
MrQuickR1
05-27-2012
2007 BMW 328i (N52)

Just changed out my eccentric cam sensor due to it leaking oil into the electrical section causing it to basically malfunction. No codes were thrown, just poor performance, serious hesitation causing the shift pattern to be abrupt and untimely in it's...
  #22  
By MrQuickR1 on 07-25-2012, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckydawg003 View Post
Well crap! I snapped off one of the valve cover bolts. It's snug in there, just broke the head clean off. Can I just leave it or do I need to remove the valve cover again and remove that one end of the bolt? Will it leak?

My stupid torque wrench from harbor freight sucks. I set it at about 7 torque ft. lbs. Since it doesn't have NM on the back it just says DA NM and the instructions for how to use it suck. I tightened the bolts but never heard a click for it to be at the right torque. So kept going and it snapped one of my bolt heads off.

I also super glued that plastic suction piece back on, but broke it off again when tightening the bolts back on. Guess I will leave it off until the very end then super glue it back on again.

So frustrated right now.
I know the frustrations of doing things and something else gets screwed up.
Visualizing your explanation is hard to tell but if it were me, I would either try to get the stud out without removing the cover, like a screw driver and try to turn it out, if that doesn't work, I would loosen all the bolts and lift the cover just enough to clear space to grab it with a vise grip or something. But that also depends on were the break is, hopefully it's easily accessible. I don't know if it will leak, but I myself wouldn't sleep at night lol.
As for the plastic nipple on the cover, I would also say it's ok being mostly vapor runs through it. Keep your eye on it every now and again just to make sure.
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  #23  
By luckydawg003 on 07-26-2012, 11:20 AM
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Thanks MrQuickR1. I'll try to remove the bolt by drilling it out using my bolt extractor. If that doesn't work I will remove other bolts and lift up the valve cover like you said. Luckily it was the front corner one so easy to access.

Since I was also replacing my starter at the same time as this job, when I put my intake manifold back on, I snapped my oil vapor hose in half. Gotta run back to dealer today to get these few parts.

By the way I really like your DIY, the pics helped me out greatly with this install. So thanks a lot for making it.
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  #24  
By luckydawg003 on 07-27-2012, 09:33 AM
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Well left it running for like 5 minutes and did a short test drive. I still have oil leaking onto my headers because I still have white smoke coming up from the left side under my valve cover. Seems to be leaking underneath that silver metal negative strap thing towards the back of the valve cover.

Also I noticed a metallic ticking noise now coming from my engine. Sounds like its around the fuel rail.

Any ideas?
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  #25  
By bbstoke on 09-08-2012, 04:07 AM
Was going to have a go at replacing the Valvetronic motor as code 2a67 keeps coming up(Eml on ) and activates limp mode. Also it says 2a6b. eccentric sensor. Not sure which to replace. Thought the sensor would be cheap but's more expensive than the motor (Go figure). Got more of an idea now thanks to your write up i.e. Gaskets and Bolts. Thankyou
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  #26  
By bbstoke on 09-08-2012, 04:19 PM
Does anyone know how to test the valvetronic motor?
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  #27  
By mlifxs on 10-06-2012, 10:32 AM
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Hi, wondering if you experienced any sort of odd noises before you discovered your solution. I'm experiencing an intermittent whistle sound (maybe once or twice a month), when I let off the gas. Shut car off, turn back on, sound goes away.
Last edited by mlifxs; 10-06-2012 at 02:10 PM.
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  #28  
By Florida Boy on 10-13-2012, 07:23 AM
Had to bump to find with the oil housing gasket. Great write up, guess we will get this done today

Edit: this worked great. Did my valve cover gasket. Thank you
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  #29  
By werd on 10-13-2012, 10:46 PM
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Just bought an '08 328i - so I am wondering how common this eccentric sensor failure is and the same for what appears to be leaking valve covers? Are these both relatively "normal" failures?
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  #30  
By mlifxs on 10-15-2012, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by werd View Post
Just bought an '08 328i - so I am wondering how common this eccentric sensor failure is and the same for what appears to be leaking valve covers? Are these both relatively "normal" failures?
from this forum, it appears that valve cover gasket is somewhat common.

My vcg appeared to be leaking but I wasn't seeing much oil loss, so I'm not convinced its an issue (yet)
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  #31  
By werd on 10-18-2012, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlifxs View Post
from this forum, it appears that valve cover gasket is somewhat common.

My vcg appeared to be leaking but I wasn't seeing much oil loss, so I'm not convinced its an issue (yet)
Good deal. Guess I can look forward to learning all the "personality" this car has...
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  #32  
By Phatblackhatch on 11-25-2012, 03:45 PM
1st post...WOOT!...Great Write up! Kudos to you man. Helped doing a cabin filter, plugs, oil and VCG change on the wifes 07 328xi. occasional white smoke on the left side, oil smell in care during warm up, etc..usual suspects. This helped me out alot. had a leak under the Valvtronic motor (changed gasket also)...that VC bolt was covered with oil..would have missed it completely!
Plugs and filter went great, but the VCG failed! whoever did the last VCG change stripped 2 of the 3 bolts in the back(YES PEOPLE SUCK)..Got 2 out (replaced new)...but the 3rd, which is right by the DME box..was too far gone.. tried 3 extractors nothing...2 options left: sockect filled with JB WELD (and hope)...or drop the engine (HA!)...so put everything back together, tightened all the bolts just a little more...and maybe heading to the dealers soon for a stripped cover bolt removal...
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  #33  
By DetailAddict on 12-08-2012, 10:27 PM
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I just did this today. Not as bad as I thought. But there has got to be a better way to remove the valve cover. Everything else was pretty standard.
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  #34  
By Route 16 on 12-18-2012, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DetailAddict View Post
I just did this today. Not as bad as I thought. But there has got to be a better way to remove the valve cover. Everything else was pretty standard.
Could I go to you to get this done if I needed?
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  #35  
By DetailAddict on 12-18-2012, 06:42 PM
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what kind of question is that Jason? Of course!

Leo

Quote:
Originally Posted by Route 16 View Post
Could I go to you to get this done if I needed?
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  #36  
By dylim on 12-27-2012, 05:39 PM
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Is it possible to just clean out the oil instead of replacing the sensor? In other words, is the sensor actually broken or is it just the connection? Has any one tried to clean the oil out of the connector, e.g. with an MAF sensor cleaner?
Last edited by dylim; 12-27-2012 at 06:58 PM.
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  #37  
By DetailAddict on 12-27-2012, 09:57 PM
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doesn't look like it, unfortunately...

if you are having this issue, you should be able to get to the connector pretty easily without having to do all the hard work. and you should be able to see outside the connector is pretty dry, at least in my case. the oil seems to be coming in from the bottom side of the sensor.

if you take a look at this pic from the OP, there are just 4 'plastic welds' that holds the metal plate down and that seems to be where the oil going in and up to the connector. I kept the faulty sensor and have yet to take it apart to inspect the inside of this piece. (maybe i'll do that so)

Leo



Quote:
Originally Posted by dylim View Post
Is it possible to just clean out the oil instead of replacing the sensor? In other words, is the sensor actually broken or is it just the connection? Has any one tried to clean the oil out of the connector, e.g. with an MAF sensor cleaner?
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  #38  
By dylim on 12-28-2012, 05:42 PM
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Thanks Leo! Ok, no shortcut here. But if the oil is coming through the metal plate (is that the sensor?), then it will do so even if after replacing, so wouldn't the same failure reoccur soon? Seems like a very bad design.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DetailAddict View Post
doesn't look like it, unfortunately...

if you are having this issue, you should be able to get to the connector pretty easily without having to do all the hard work. and you should be able to see outside the connector is pretty dry, at least in my case. the oil seems to be coming in from the bottom side of the sensor.

if you take a look at this pic from the OP, there are just 4 'plastic welds' that holds the metal plate down and that seems to be where the oil going in and up to the connector. I kept the faulty sensor and have yet to take it apart to inspect the inside of this piece. (maybe i'll do that so)

Leo
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  #39  
By DetailAddict on 12-28-2012, 06:26 PM
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yeah, i know what you mean... i only have ~54k miles on the car and it's out. I am afraid that it'll go out again after another 50k or so. lol! but then again, i can do the work, so just parts. but this damn sensor is EXPENSIVE!

Leo

Quote:
Originally Posted by dylim View Post
Thanks Leo! Ok, no shortcut here. But if the oil is coming through the metal plate (is that the sensor?), then it will do so even if after replacing, so wouldn't the same failure reoccur soon? Seems like a very bad design.
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  #40  
By MrQuickR1 on 12-29-2012, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dylim View Post
Is it possible to just clean out the oil instead of replacing the sensor? In other words, is the sensor actually broken or is it just the connection? Has any one tried to clean the oil out of the connector, e.g. with an MAF sensor cleaner?
Yes you can try to clean it out first....I was advised to try that too but after researching more, the bottom line came down to...if there is oil in it now, there will be oil in it again after cleaning it.
You do not need to take anything apart other than the covers in order to expose the sensor (top part) unplug it and have a look inside.
You will see the electrical pins when you look down in. Oil seeps up through them pins and as explained, coming through that metal section on the bottom.
However to replace this sensor, there is no other way but to take the valve cover off.
You can try cleaning, but with all leaks, cleaning it and drying it will not stop the leak...would be nice though.
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  #41  
By simon on 01-06-2013, 09:01 PM
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Thanks for the great DIY.

What did you use to clean the gasket mating surfaces? Also the MAF sensor cleaner?
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  #42  
By Braxton on 03-31-2013, 08:40 PM
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Problem when finished

Great DIY. I finished my valve cover (gasket leaking) and was very proud of myself.

Started up, it was a bit rough and was having a hard time idling. Drove home without any trouble beyond goosing it at low idle. Next morning was very rough, and now I'm even having trouble keeping it going after it is warmed up; engine dies at stop lights. Sounds like the injectors are clicking like crazy now too.

I ran the codes for the SES light.

P0015 'B' Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (this seems to be the important one)
also got several codes related to misfires

I am open for any advice. Below is my list of things to check.

1. Oil vapor hose (could a vacuum leak be causing this? heard this is fragile)
2. Check coil packs individually
3. Re-re-re-check sensor connections
4. MAF sensor cleaning
5. Vanos solenoid swap (could something have gotten loose with the cover off and jammed a solenoid; this one relates closest to the P0015 code)
6. I really hope I didn't cause a misalignment of my cams. I don't know how that could have been possible.

I appreciate your help. This was my first "major" mechanical job on a BMW. I feel like an idiot at the moment.
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  #43  
By Braxton on 04-01-2013, 10:04 PM
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Update: Problem when finished

Update:

Swapped my Vanos solenoids after a thorough spraying with brake cleaner and shaking the crap out of them. Started right up, no problems whatsoever now.

Must have gotten a small piece of rubber or something down in the solenoids.
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