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VIDEO UPDATE...to my electrical malfunction
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10-01-2012, 11:34 PM | #1 |
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VIDEO UPDATE...to my electrical malfunction
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Z_uIGT4IBI
I will be talking to my mechanic soon I suspect
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10-02-2012, 12:01 PM | #6 |
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LOL, anyone have any useful info? (except pepsih). I agree I'd check battery and connections first. Are you hitting bumps when it happens? Kinda looks like it..
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10-03-2012, 12:11 PM | #9 |
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To properly diagnose, more information would be needed, I would get the codes that are produced checked by a proper diagnostics tool. Every system, including the electrical system, is checked and records what happens to it and those recordings will show on a proper diagnostics (what lost power).
I don't have audio at the moment so I couldn't tell, but does it primarily affect just the instrument cluster? Does it affect the audio system too? Those two are on the same control module system. Does it seem like it wants to kill the engine as well? I have a 2008 335i and after about 50k miles I started getting random power loss that would mysteriously come back later. Sometimes it would even happen when driving, there hasn't been a recall issued yet (for some reason) but they traced the problem to the spade connector that connects the battery to the back of the fuse box which then feeds power to all the other electrical systems. I actually had a connector custom machined so that there wouldn't be the possibility of breaking connection again after replacing the fusebox and connector twice. That would be a total power loss, no lights, no power to the motor, etc. It could be the battery cables, but we replaced the battery too, even though it checked out fine, and inspected the cables and they all checked out fine but you may want to have the resistance in yours checked as well to see there is a fault in the cable itself which is incredibly rare. The connector at the back of the fusebox is usually the culprit If yours is not a total power loss, it could just be a faulty or loose control module, but I would get the codes checked.
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10-03-2012, 09:23 PM | #12 |
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Definitely looks like a CAN-bus communication error. Most likely a pinched or loose wire at the DME or in the back of the dashboard. DIS would tell you exactly what the problem is.
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10-04-2012, 09:33 AM | #13 |
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Reminds me of when I had a wire ground out on the chasis. Hitting bumps would cause the car to do the exact same thing. Different car though.
Vibrations made cable rub with metal right next to it. Over time this cause it to eventually ground and cause a fuse wire to blow and leave me on the road. I say get it checked out soon before you end up out in the road too. |
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10-16-2012, 10:25 PM | #14 |
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Update Again
So over the past week my issues with the elec warnings (see the video) have gone away but on sat morning I got a new one.
IDRIVE FAILURE. started car and there was no radio and no I drive functionality. no iPod No bluetooth. Nothing. The SOS symbol was shown in yellow with a slash across it meaning not operational. Car Started and drove perfectly normal No problems. A few miles down the road I see the I drive home screen fade away then the BMW LOGO fade in and out a few times then things started working perfectly normal. Any more takes from you folks?
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10-17-2012, 05:50 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
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10-17-2012, 08:42 AM | #16 |
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as silly as it sounds check your battery terminals. When i installed a boost gauge in my audi, i had a similar issue. It turned out to be the positive terminal not making good contact with the battery.
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10-17-2012, 01:18 PM | #17 |
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damn :/ sorry to hear.. if i were you id take the DME out visually inspect the board. put it back in the car might fix it. just unplugging and re installing..
good luck keep us posted. |
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10-17-2012, 01:45 PM | #18 |
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OP.. What have you actually done to resolve the issue thus far? Have you had any codes read yet? I don't mean to sound like an ass, but you keep asking for help and posting additional problems, but have yet to give us any info to go off of, besides a video that it does have an issue of sorts. Check the connections, etc. That's the first thing to do; and it's free.
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10-18-2012, 09:58 PM | #19 | |
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Previous Ride 2007 335I Coupe / Space / Black Dakota / Gray Poplar / ZSP / ZPP / Step / Paddles / Nav / Hot Seats / IPOD/ Xpel HL
Current Ride 2016 M4 / Mineral Gray / DCT/ Full Black Leather / 19in Gunmetal / Executive /LED/Ohlinds RT/SSR DP-CP-Intake/AP Essex 9668/Bootmod STG 2/DINAN HE |
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10-18-2012, 09:59 PM | #20 | |
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Previous Ride 2007 335I Coupe / Space / Black Dakota / Gray Poplar / ZSP / ZPP / Step / Paddles / Nav / Hot Seats / IPOD/ Xpel HL
Current Ride 2016 M4 / Mineral Gray / DCT/ Full Black Leather / 19in Gunmetal / Executive /LED/Ohlinds RT/SSR DP-CP-Intake/AP Essex 9668/Bootmod STG 2/DINAN HE |
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10-18-2012, 11:31 PM | #21 |
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I had some pretty odd things like this happening(35 codes when i scanned my car), I went into the dealer, got a OEM battery. The mechanic told me it could also be my DME wires (frayed,exposed). I opened up the DME, and good lord indeed, wires were exposed. Some of the rubber coating cracked open and the copper wire was just touching what ever it could on like 4-5 wires.
All I did was wrap electrical tape around it for now. some were really hard to get to.I was afraid they would brake. no problems anymore |
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10-18-2012, 11:45 PM | #22 |
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Did you buy the car used?
If memory serves me correct, the dot in between your odometer and AB trip is an indication of the cluster chip been tampered. Get in contact with previous owner and start asking questions |
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