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      10-29-2012, 11:22 PM   #1
gdub
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p29f3 code - fuel pressure sensor fault

So I'm getting this now and it's causing misfires, I can't go WOT over 3k right now. The code is p29f3 that shows on the accessport. It doesn't have any other supporting codes (which i read could be fuel pump problems), my car is no longer under manufacture warranty, do you think this is covered in the injectors or the hpfp recall? Or should I just fix it myself - I found a DIY - it seems pretty easy minus the removal of the wiring harness junction box.
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      10-30-2012, 04:35 AM   #2
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... Or should I just fix it myself - I found a DIY - it seems pretty easy minus the removal of the wiring harness junction box.
The box can be removed easily. One has to pull up on it and then it slides out. Pulling up (as if trying to bend it) causes the locking tabs to recede so that it can slide out. Speaking from experience.
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      10-30-2012, 09:32 AM   #3
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When I got 29F3 code it turned out to be a bad fuel temperature/pressure sensor causing low fuel pressure. However, mine was coupled with 2AAF and 29F2 codes.

Part number is 13537614317

Last edited by BoostedE90; 10-30-2012 at 09:42 AM.
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      10-30-2012, 12:20 PM   #4
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Change out the LP fuel sensor. Easy to change but you need to take out air box, charge pipe, throttle body and then the intake manifold has to be lifted. Lots of stuff and can take about 2 hours from completion. I changed mine out as I had the same code and symptoms. I could not go Wot and if I did it would misfire and the injectors would shut down
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      10-30-2012, 05:39 PM   #5
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wow, i am having same issue, i thought it was my solenoids too.

can someone point me to a diy
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      10-30-2012, 06:00 PM   #6
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There is no DIY. Take out air box , charge pipe, throttle body And intake manifold. Look for those DIY and bunch them all together to get to the LP sensor
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      10-30-2012, 06:10 PM   #7
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I found a DIY here: http://forums.5series.net/diy-do-you...or-n54-124086/ and he has really good advice on how to deal with that wiring box.

Rigged a special tool using a screwdriver.
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      10-30-2012, 06:34 PM   #8
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I left that junction box on. All I did was lift the intake manifold enough to see the sensor and with someone helping me I got the wire plug off the sensor and then simply replaced it.
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      10-30-2012, 06:35 PM   #9
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My low pressure fuel sensor was replaced last week under cpo warranty
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      10-30-2012, 06:38 PM   #10
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We are speaking of DIY here. Ofcourse the dealer can change it out
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      10-31-2012, 08:35 AM   #11
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Quote:
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I left that junction box on. All I did was lift the intake manifold enough to see the sensor and with someone helping me I got the wire plug off the sensor and then simply replaced it.
Why does the intake manifold need to be lifted if you don't need to remove the junction box? It looks like you should be able to reach the sensor without doing that once the throttle body is out of the way.
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      10-31-2012, 08:59 AM   #12
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Why does the intake manifold need to be lifted if you don't need to remove the junction box? It looks like you should be able to reach the sensor without doing that once the throttle body is out of the way.
Correct... you can do either or. If you leave the intake manifold on you have to move the junction box. If you don't want to mess with the junction box then you have to lift/remove the intake manifold.
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      10-31-2012, 09:01 AM   #13
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We are speaking of DIY here. Ofcourse the dealer can change it out
I believe he was just stating that it's covered under CPO. So for those with a CPO warranty can just take it to the dealer to have it fixed.
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      11-01-2012, 12:40 AM   #14
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no cpo here, ordering the sensor now. i've got to put my DCI on anyways, so seems like a fitting time to do it all.
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      11-02-2012, 10:37 PM   #15
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looks like you can use dental tool with hook?
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      11-02-2012, 10:38 PM   #16
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silly question, but is a FBO 335i covered under CPO still?
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      11-05-2012, 01:26 AM   #17
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i don't think anything is under warranty CPO unless your service guy is cool or doesn't notice.
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      11-05-2012, 10:34 AM   #18
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i don't think anything is under warranty CPO unless your service guy is cool or doesn't notice.
How old is your car>? Model Year?

The emission warranty is 8 years or 80,000 miles whichever comes first, from the inservice date.

Also... IF your car is a ULEV or SULEV the warranty is MUCH longer! For instance an SULEV has an 15-year/150,000-mile warranty!!
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      11-23-2012, 03:22 PM   #19
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yea, take the intake and throttle body off, move the wiring harness and you are set. took me 30 minutes; the DCI and aftermarket charge pipe makes its easier.

the real question i have is how many people are having this issue, and better yet, how many people are having this issue shortly after using E85. I am now thinking E85 accelerated the aging of the sensor.
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      11-24-2012, 04:23 PM   #20
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the throttle body was kind of a pain to get off, then the wiring junction box. So the DIY the guy posted that includes taking that off by using that bent flathead is a big pain in the butt. all you need is a crowbar or a big stick or something, wedge it in there and it'll pop right out of the clips. Other than that, and now that I've done it, it's really easy to get to. Now I'm having a new problem. No more codes, however, at ~4k WOT I'm getting a bunch of knock and I'm trying to figure out if it's fuel or air. I have some logs that are logging the standard logs from the accessport, and then I have logs logging the HPFP and LPFP and knock, it's noticeably knocking and it'll even sometimes pop a CEL but I can't figure out what it is, I'm thinking theres a leak somewhere in the intake manifold where it connects to the engine, I'm going to take it off and put it back on. I've added DCIs to it as well in the mean time. So it's FMIC + DCIs on Cobb aggressive stage 1+ running shell 93.

If the Fuel HPFP REQ PSI is higher than the Fuel HPFP PSI does that mean it's asking for X amount and only Y amount is being provided, therefore meaning it's not getting enough fuel? Or does anyone know where I can get a better explanation of each of the particular data pieces it's logging?

also, how accurate is the lambda bank1 afr?
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      11-24-2012, 04:51 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilvosko View Post
yea, take the intake and throttle body off, move the wiring harness and you are set. took me 30 minutes; the DCI and aftermarket charge pipe makes its easier.

the real question i have is how many people are having this issue, and better yet, how many people are having this issue shortly after using E85. I am now thinking E85 accelerated the aging of the sensor.
Not using e85 here and I have this code. Running the COBB AP.
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      11-24-2012, 05:00 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdub View Post
the throttle body was kind of a pain to get off, then the wiring junction box. So the DIY the guy posted that includes taking that off by using that bent flathead is a big pain in the butt. all you need is a crowbar or a big stick or something, wedge it in there and it'll pop right out of the clips. Other than that, and now that I've done it, it's really easy to get to. Now I'm having a new problem. No more codes, however, at ~4k WOT I'm getting a bunch of knock and I'm trying to figure out if it's fuel or air. I have some logs that are logging the standard logs from the accessport, and then I have logs logging the HPFP and LPFP and knock, it's noticeably knocking and it'll even sometimes pop a CEL but I can't figure out what it is, I'm thinking theres a leak somewhere in the intake manifold where it connects to the engine, I'm going to take it off and put it back on. I've added DCIs to it as well in the mean time. So it's FMIC + DCIs on Cobb aggressive stage 1+ running shell 93.

If the Fuel HPFP REQ PSI is higher than the Fuel HPFP PSI does that mean it's asking for X amount and only Y amount is being provided, therefore meaning it's not getting enough fuel? Or does anyone know where I can get a better explanation of each of the particular data pieces it's logging?

also, how accurate is the lambda bank1 afr?
Knocking. You are actually hearing noticeable pinging? If so that's not good at all. That's I would believe is a fuel issue.
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