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      11-05-2012, 07:01 PM   #1
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Central heating - thermostat and trvs

I've noticed nearly every trv in my house making a very annoying whistling noise now. Some louder than others. I'm pretty sure some are out of calibration too. Can anyone recommend reliable ones? I need about 20 so preferably not top whack ones. I noticed the heads unscrew, do you replace just the heads or the entire valve?

Also I would like to get a better digital programmable thermostat. I run our heating 24/7 so having it adjust the temp down from 20 to 15 overnight and some afternoons is very handy. Problem is our current one is crap, letting the temp drop too far then blasting it up and over the set temp. I would rather just have it top up. Anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks
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      11-06-2012, 02:59 AM   #2
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TRV - Drayton TRV4

Programmer - Honeywell CM907 or CM927 (wireless.)
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      11-06-2012, 04:11 AM   #3
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TRV - Drayton TRV4

Programmer - Honeywell CM907 or CM927 (wireless.)
Still going strong mate, almost 2 years on
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      11-06-2012, 04:30 AM   #4
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Quote:
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TRV - Drayton TRV4

Programmer - Honeywell CM907 or CM927 (wireless.)
Mine still fine also
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      11-06-2012, 11:19 AM   #5
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Thanks Will

Might need a new boiler at this rate, just late last night i noticed the bloody thing didnt fire up but the pump was running. Same this morning. A bang to the side and the thing sprung into life.

Will see how it goes now and get this new programmer.

If i decide to buy all new valves can you get just the heads or do i need to change the entire thing with system drain down?
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      11-06-2012, 01:56 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by willhollin View Post
TRV - Drayton TRV4

Programmer - Honeywell CM907 or CM927 (wireless.)
Sounds like someone in the industry?? What do you do Will?

Got my T5 btw...
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      11-06-2012, 02:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
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TRV - Drayton TRV4

Programmer - Honeywell CM907 or CM927 (wireless.)
Those trv's all day long, build quality is great.

Wireless controls are great but they do eat through a few batteries.

I'd drain the system TBH, add some inhibitor when you re-fill though.

Am an engineer for British Gas
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      11-07-2012, 01:49 PM   #8
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Thanks Will

Might need a new boiler at this rate, just late last night i noticed the bloody thing didnt fire up but the pump was running. Same this morning. A bang to the side and the thing sprung into life.

Will see how it goes now and get this new programmer.

If i decide to buy all new valves can you get just the heads or do i need to change the entire thing with system drain down?
I'm almost certain valve heads from different manufacturers will be interchangeable. Which means a full drain down...

Are there TRVs on all the radiators?

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Originally Posted by Dannyrado View Post
Sounds like someone in the industry?? What do you do Will?

Got my T5 btw...
Oil heating mate, so how's the van, whats the economy like?
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      11-07-2012, 06:45 PM   #9
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Trvs on all but the hall, lounge and kitchen

As long as I don't have to cut pipes I can handle a full valve change. Couple and spanners and some ptfe tape.

Might help as I have air in the system despite bleeding the furthest rad and pump. Think it's playing havoc with my boiler and the auto air vent ain't helping. I still hear trickling water from the boiler. Just realised the bloody thing sometimes stops and cycles, hopefully due to air lock.
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      11-07-2012, 07:28 PM   #10
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installed the cm 927 about 2mths ago and really can't fault it!
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      11-08-2012, 02:15 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Trvs on all but the hall, lounge and kitchen

As long as I don't have to cut pipes I can handle a full valve change. Couple and spanners and some ptfe tape.

Might help as I have air in the system despite bleeding the furthest rad and pump. Think it's playing havoc with my boiler and the auto air vent ain't helping. I still hear trickling water from the boiler. Just realised the bloody thing sometimes stops and cycles, hopefully due to air lock.
What make valves are on now? Sometimes they make a noise due to not being balanced properly.

Is it an open vented or sealed system?
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      11-08-2012, 04:29 AM   #12
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+1 for the Honeywell 907 / 927's... I put a 907 in my last place and it made a BIG difference to the comfort levels of the house and the heating bills!

For my new place, I've just ordered a couple of Heatmiser touchscreen thermostats (one for each heating zone), they can also be controlled via wifi / internet from my iPhone

http://www.heatmisershop.co.uk/therm...hw-ts-wifi-p99
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      11-08-2012, 04:35 AM   #13
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Pelger terrier 2's Will - I hear they are shit

They do appear to be working but whistle when they begin to close it seems

It's a sealed/unvented system too - but I think there is air in there as boiler water makes trickling noise

Thanks
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      11-08-2012, 06:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
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It's a sealed/unvented system too - but I think there is air in there as boiler water makes trickling noise

Thanks
Sure it is not just crap in the heat exchange?

You put any cleaner in it??
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      11-09-2012, 02:32 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willhollin View Post
So how's the van, whats the economy like?
I'm finding the drivers seat a tad uncomfy, but that's because my back is fooked.

Aside from that the van is ace, never had so many wanting looks, from blokes obviously (because secretly we all want to be in the A team.)

I have put a motexion bulkhead in and carry around 800kg of tools and parts, and put the 19"s on now. But i still get 600 miles to the tank, which was 105 last fill. Computer shows 35mpg over long distances, mostly set cruise at 70. On single track "back country" roads it generally shows 37-40 mpg. Don't suppose it's that great, might go for DSG caddy next time, what does yours do mpg wise?

Sorry for being OT.

Back on topic, i've been buying heatmiser stuff for years, it's very good, them wireless enabled stats are said to be the nuts. However if your an apple fan you could wait for the "nest", do a search, already available in the US, set for UK sale (i believe in apple shops) soon.

You can also get a range of battery operated thermostatic valve heads, that open and close dependant on a battery operated stat in that room, the boiler only fires when at least one room asks for heat. These are available from one of my suppliers, however it'll be a little more pricey and complicated obviously.
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      11-09-2012, 03:52 AM   #16
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Quote:
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+1 for the Honeywell 907 / 927's... I put a 907 in my last place and it made a BIG difference to the comfort levels of the house and the heating bills!

For my new place, I've just ordered a couple of Heatmiser touchscreen thermostats (one for each heating zone), they can also be controlled via wifi / internet from my iPhone

http://www.heatmisershop.co.uk/therm...hw-ts-wifi-p99
Those heatmiser one's look great. Does anyone know if I can hook up them to a worcester bosch 350 boiler? Currently we don't have a thermostat anywhere just an electronic timer hooked into the boiler. If we could replace all that with one of those that would be awesome.

Sorry to hijack the thread
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      11-09-2012, 04:06 AM   #17
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Those heatmiser one's look great. Does anyone know if I can hook up them to a worcester bosch 350 boiler? Currently we don't have a thermostat anywhere just an electronic timer hooked into the boiler. If we could replace all that with one of those that would be awesome.

Sorry to hijack the thread
My boiler's also a Worcestor Bosch (30CDI System boiler) so I'm sure it should be possible - they work with all different boiler types (System, Combi etc). There's a lot of info on their website, including wiring diagrams but they also have an extremely helpful pre-sales advice line. Give them a call and explain what you have and what you'd like to achieve, and I'm sure they'll point you in the right direction.
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      11-09-2012, 04:31 AM   #18
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Cheers

Will give them a call, just wasn't sure about my boiler since its quite old.
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      11-09-2012, 04:51 AM   #19
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Cheers

Will give them a call, just wasn't sure about my boiler since its quite old.
Most boilers new or old will utilize a switched live for a heating demand. Weather its a combi or system boiler. All that you have to do is wire in the wireless receiver where the clock is connected. Check first though as some are volt free so the wiring would need slightly altered.
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      11-09-2012, 04:57 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briers View Post
I've noticed nearly every trv in my house making a very annoying whistling noise now. Some louder than others. I'm pretty sure some are out of calibration too. Can anyone recommend reliable ones? I need about 20 so preferably not top whack ones. I noticed the heads unscrew, do you replace just the heads or the entire valve?

Also I would like to get a better digital programmable thermostat. I run our heating 24/7 so having it adjust the temp down from 20 to 15 overnight and some afternoons is very handy. Problem is our current one is crap, letting the temp drop too far then blasting it up and over the set temp. I would rather just have it top up. Anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks
What is the central heating water quality like mate? The variance in whistling at the trv's may be due to the trv's being set at different temperatures. Some will be trying to slow the water flow down quicker than others due to room temp. If the seats of the valves are dirty then the venturi effect will be louder and might cause this whistling noise. Does the noise go away if you manually open or close the valve? Its just an idea mate.
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      11-09-2012, 05:18 AM   #21
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I need a way of timing the use of our immersion heater. It's just a switch at the moment. Any recommendation?
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      11-09-2012, 05:40 AM   #22
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What is the central heating water quality like mate? The variance in whistling at the trv's may be due to the trv's being set at different temperatures. Some will be trying to slow the water flow down quicker than others due to room temp. If the seats of the valves are dirty then the venturi effect will be louder and might cause this whistling noise. Does the noise go away if you manually open or close the valve? Its just an idea mate.
The water quality looks quite good, it runs clear, slight yellow tinge i think due to inhibitor.

I think the whistling could be a mixture of poor quality terrier 2's and the pump speed on 3.

I'm just testing the pump on 2 at the mo, first day today as that could be causing the whistling and the air in the system as the water hits the impeller.

To top it off i think my flow and return pipes are connected the wrong way round on the boiler. As the temperature monitoring is attached to the return pipe by design (which is my flow pipe) this could be causing some of the short cycling.

Yes the noise does go when i adjust the valves. Bloody things wake me up in the morning, only option is to open them higher so they close a lot later.
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