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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > Bluetooth Retrofit: E90 335i with iDrive, Phone prep, Voice control, and USB



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      11-02-2012, 02:22 PM   #89
alexwhittemore
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Wow, that's totally peculiar. Maybe iDrive handles voice? I think it was pretty rare to find a car with iDrive but without bluetooth, although I could be talking out my ass.

Anyway, we'll definitely need to run wires in your car. It'll be a pain, but whatever. Mine will be a guinea pig first. Like you mentioned, I actually can use the phone just fine in the cabin, although if it's in the front seat the bluetooth is a bit raspy whereas if it's in the back, it's better. Point being, all my antenna orders are coming from china, but the wire is coming from the US and the mic is probably coming from the dealer down the street, so I might even be able to wire everything up next weekend and just deal with the crappy BT reception until the antenna parts come in.

Now I just need to track down pins for the mulf connector, and, ideally, a connector for the mic.
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      11-02-2012, 10:03 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by alexwhittemore View Post
Wow, that's totally peculiar. Maybe iDrive handles voice? I think it was pretty rare to find a car with iDrive but without bluetooth, although I could be talking out my ass.

Anyway, we'll definitely need to run wires in your car. It'll be a pain, but whatever. Mine will be a guinea pig first. Like you mentioned, I actually can use the phone just fine in the cabin, although if it's in the front seat the bluetooth is a bit raspy whereas if it's in the back, it's better. Point being, all my antenna orders are coming from china, but the wire is coming from the US and the mic is probably coming from the dealer down the street, so I might even be able to wire everything up next weekend and just deal with the crappy BT reception until the antenna parts come in.

Now I just need to track down pins for the mulf connector, and, ideally, a connector for the mic.
for the mic connector, i used some connector with cable salvaged from old computer casings years ago. those 3 pin connectors fits perfectly to the mic. just need to solder the original wires from the connector to the mic wiring.
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      11-02-2012, 10:27 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by gjimmy View Post
Alright, here is what I have found with some pictures which may help.

I am referring to the box in my trunk as the MULF, which I think is correct, but it is entirely possible that I don't know what I am talking about and therefore it may be a TCU instead.

I have:

• a picture of what I found behind my glovebox.

• 2 pics of the MULF (?) unit in my trunk. (sorry for the poor quality)

• 2 pics of the wiring setup on the connector going to the MULF (with no mic wires)

Please have a look and see if this makes any sense to anyone.


Also, even though I do not have a BT antenna i had my iPhone in my car up by my center console and it was paired just fine and I could find the contacts. I would have made a test call but knew that the other person wouldn't be able to had me.
you have a MULF2 high from the pic. can't tell the version as the exact model is on the side of the module. but since you mentioned you have voice control, it probably is a MULF2-High SVS

your wiring is kinda weird. the MULF is supposed to control the voice control but the mic is not wired to there. reading through the BMW WDS information, for cars that has a CCC, the mic may be connected to the CCC instead of MULF. you may want to remove your radio and see if the mic wiring goes to there.

quoted from BMW WDS http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zin...-651250002.htm
Components connected to the Car Communication Computer (CCC)

Fan
MOST framework
Loudspeakers (not with Top HiFi system)
Central Information Display (CID)
Radio aerial
GPS aerials
Microphone
Video input


now the question is whether you will need another mic installed. if the existing mic is indeed wired to the CCC, then if you run a new mic wiring and connect to this mic, would your voice control still work? or if you install a new mic which is wired to the MULF, will it affect the existing voice control?

if you do not mind throwing in the $30 to $50 for the new mic and wiring, you could test it out and see how it goes. guess it's more about trial and error from now onwards.

update : your mic should be connected to the CCC. look at this thread and download the first attached PDF file. it shows how the mic is wired to the CCC. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488443. the post also shows the guy having 2 mics (one original and one from the CCC retrofit). so I guess you will need to run the new mic wiring and get another mic for the BT phone to work.

Last edited by snoozee; 11-02-2012 at 10:39 PM.
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      11-02-2012, 10:29 PM   #92
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Ahh not a bad idea! Unfortunately, having just moved, my spare computer parts bin has just gone from chock full to bone dry. Anyway, it seems that normal 100mil headers fit just fine if the edges are filed down a bit. It's not directional, but plugging it in backwords won't do anything but make the mic not work (it won't break it) and I should be able to keep track well enough anyway.

Re gjimmy's car: He does have a MULF2 High basis, same as me. He said that his voice control as of this coding is broken, so presumably the system has handed voice input off to the MULF, but obviously without wiring it's not functional.

I imagine we can try with some dummy wiring just to make sure we don't wast time, but I'll probably just do the same wiring job in his car as mine and leave the old mic pigtail hanging.
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      11-03-2012, 12:54 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoozee View Post
you have a MULF2 high from the pic. can't tell the version as the exact model is on the side of the module. but since you mentioned you have voice control, it probably is a MULF2-High SVS

your wiring is kinda weird. the MULF is supposed to control the voice control but the mic is not wired to there. reading through the BMW WDS information, for cars that has a CCC, the mic may be connected to the CCC instead of MULF. you may want to remove your radio and see if the mic wiring goes to there.

quoted from BMW WDS http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zin...-651250002.htm
Components connected to the Car Communication Computer (CCC)

Fan
MOST framework
Loudspeakers (not with Top HiFi system)
Central Information Display (CID)
Radio aerial
GPS aerials
Microphone
Video input


now the question is whether you will need another mic installed. if the existing mic is indeed wired to the CCC, then if you run a new mic wiring and connect to this mic, would your voice control still work? or if you install a new mic which is wired to the MULF, will it affect the existing voice control?

if you do not mind throwing in the $30 to $50 for the new mic and wiring, you could test it out and see how it goes. guess it's more about trial and error from now onwards.

update : your mic should be connected to the CCC. look at this thread and download the first attached PDF file. it shows how the mic is wired to the CCC. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488443. the post also shows the guy having 2 mics (one original and one from the CCC retrofit). so I guess you will need to run the new mic wiring and get another mic for the BT phone to work.
Thanks for the info. I would prefer to use the existing mic even if it compromises the use of Voice Control, as I have found it to be useless and never use it anyway. It is more trouble to say commands than to just press a button in my experience.

I am hoping I can just run the wires from the MULF to the existing mic and be done with it. Luckily I have an electrical engineer on my side in Alex.

It seems I have one of the more strange setups and if I can get the bluetooth to work I will feel like I won! I can't let the car win.
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      11-03-2012, 10:28 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by gjimmy View Post
Thanks for the info. I would prefer to use the existing mic even if it compromises the use of Voice Control, as I have found it to be useless and never use it anyway. It is more trouble to say commands than to just press a button in my experience.

I am hoping I can just run the wires from the MULF to the existing mic and be done with it. Luckily I have an electrical engineer on my side in Alex.

It seems I have one of the more strange setups and if I can get the bluetooth to work I will feel like I won! I can't let the car win.
the BT retrofit does come with voice control for phone dialing as well. for all you know, voice control may work properly again after you ran the new mic wiring. information from BMW did mention that later models of cars with iDrive uses 1 mic instead of 2 for voice control and phone.

the wiring is the easiest part of this retrofit. I would suggest running the wire through the roof rather than the floor so you would need to remove less trim pieces. just make sure that when the wire is run to the FZD, the a-pillar trim is removed and the mic wire run under the airbag. having an old credit card will come in handy as well to tuck the wire through the gaps into the roof liner.
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      11-07-2012, 09:25 PM   #95
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Thank you for an excellent writeup! I have the same options as listed in the first post (except I only have the normal hifi stereo, not the pro). I now have bluetooth in my 2008 e91, and it works beautifully, with voice control and everything. The car even displays my phone's cellular signal strength, which I suppose would be handy if I had AT&T.

All in all, this took me quite a few hours. Most of that was research and getting the coding working (first time I've done any coding on any car). Here are my notes on the items that I had trouble with:

-During my first attempt at programming, the car started beeping and the wipers started going (slowly). I freaked out. Turns out I'd just drained the battery, like an idiot.

-I initially tried a cheap VAG cable, correctly reprogrammed for the ignition/battery pins. Didn't work. I had success with the $100 cable.

-In windows' device manager, I had to change the timeout latency to 1ms on the cable's com port. It was able to FA_WRITE the CAS before I did this, but couldn't do anything with the other modules.

-If your laptop is windows 7 and you're using XP mode, you may have to plug into a USB 2 port (as opposed to USB 3) before you can access the cable inside XP mode.

-Initially, I wasn't able to do anything to the MULF2 in NCS Expert. After I'd coded the other modules, bluetooth showed up in my settings, but clicking on the turn on bluetooth box did absolutely nothing. No check mark appeared, no error message, nothing.

-Inside NCS Expert, when attempting to "Process ECU" (such as the "2MULF"), NCS displays which files it needs in order to interact with that module. After many frustrations, I noticed that I was missing the file ULF2_HI.PRG. Once I'd obtained the file and put it in the correct folder, I was able to reset (SG_RESET) the MULF. I was not able to enact the SG_CODIEREN command on it. Immediately after resetting, though, bluetooth started working!

-While trying to get the coding to work, I reset the ECU that controls the sunroof. This caused the car to throw an error code - it needs to have the sunroof's travel distance calibrated, otherwise it can't tell the difference between pinching someone's fingers and being all the way closed. To fix this (with the sunroof and shade completely closed), I pressed up on the sunroof button and held for 2-3 minutes. After a while, everything opened all the way, and then closed all the way. This was its calibration procedure.

I believe the same applies to the windows - if you somehow lose the calibration data, it'll get upset, and a similar procedure will re-calibrate it.
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      11-07-2012, 09:38 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by douggreglas View Post
-While trying to get the coding to work, I reset the ECU that controls the sunroof. This caused the car to throw an error code - it needs to have the sunroof's travel distance calibrated, otherwise it can't tell the difference between pinching someone's fingers and being all the way closed. To fix this (with the sunroof and shade completely closed), I pressed up on the sunroof button and held for 2-3 minutes. After a while, everything opened all the way, and then closed all the way. This was its calibration procedure.

I believe the same applies to the windows - if you somehow lose the calibration data, it'll get upset, and a similar procedure will re-calibrate it.
Wow, interesting! Somehow doing an SG_RESET on the whole car didn't mess up my windows or sunroof at all, but good to know, thanks for the heads up.
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      11-07-2012, 10:03 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by douggreglas View Post
-Inside NCS Expert, when attempting to "Process ECU" (such as the "2MULF"), NCS displays which files it needs in order to interact with that module. After many frustrations, I noticed that I was missing the file ULF2_HI.PRG. Once I'd obtained the file and put it in the correct folder, I was able to reset (SG_RESET) the MULF. I was not able to enact the SG_CODIEREN command on it. Immediately after resetting, though, bluetooth started working!
this is something new. certainly didn't read about it anywhere or think about it until you mentioned it. good investigative skills.
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      11-12-2012, 02:39 AM   #98
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Mic wire came in, ran it from the FZD through the roof trim down the A pillar behind the airbag through the dash behind the pedal trim (next to the FRM) and along the floor with the original wiring harness. Nice, clean install, sounds and works great!

Now I just need to wait for the antenna wiring to show up, so I can quit tossing my phone in the back seat every time I make a call to prevent choppy bluetooth
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      11-12-2012, 06:20 AM   #99
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Bluetooth coding in the NorthWest

Does anyone know of a place in Seattle or anywhere in the Northwest that will know how to do this coding?
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      11-12-2012, 05:13 PM   #100
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Originally Posted by snoozee View Post
the BT retrofit does come with voice control for phone dialing as well. for all you know, voice control may work properly again after you ran the new mic wiring. information from BMW did mention that later models of cars with iDrive uses 1 mic instead of 2 for voice control and phone.

the wiring is the easiest part of this retrofit. I would suggest running the wire through the roof rather than the floor so you would need to remove less trim pieces. just make sure that when the wire is run to the FZD, the a-pillar trim is removed and the mic wire run under the airbag. having an old credit card will come in handy as well to tuck the wire through the gaps into the roof liner.
I have the same 3 wires behind the glove box, so that means I need to wire the mic directly to the MULF and it should work? I also had VC but after the cooding it quit working.

I can stream music, read emails and all in the car, but no mic.
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      11-12-2012, 05:16 PM   #101
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Stream music? what year is your car/+idrive?
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      11-13-2012, 10:39 AM   #102
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Stream music? what year is your car/+idrive?
Its a 2011 E92 M3, It had VC but no bluetooth. So after putting the antenna, coding ( which took a while also becuase just the $644 wouldnt cut it) it worked. But the mic stopped working.

I pulled the glove box and saw the same as this pics, only 3 cables and apparently pinned correctly like the OP had them. So Iam lost on why it wont work.

But yeah, I can read emails, stream Pandora music from the Ipad and it displays the info of the music in the I Drive. Just cant take or make calls, which is anoying LOL.
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      11-13-2012, 09:47 PM   #103
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Its a 2011 E92 M3, It had VC but no bluetooth. So after putting the antenna, coding ( which took a while also becuase just the $644 wouldnt cut it) it worked. But the mic stopped working.

I pulled the glove box and saw the same as this pics, only 3 cables and apparently pinned correctly like the OP had them. So Iam lost on why it wont work.

But yeah, I can read emails, stream Pandora music from the Ipad and it displays the info of the music in the I Drive. Just cant take or make calls, which is anoying LOL.
check your MULF to see if there's any mic wiring on pins 1, 19 and 21. if the slots are empty, most probably your mic is wired to the CIC/CCC directly so you need to run a new set of mic wiring. you may or may not need to buy another mic so i suggest you do the wiring first and test out on the existing mic. if VC and phone calls work then you do not need the additional mic.

i think what had most probably happened is that after coding the BT phone, the VC functions may have been transferred to the MULF instead.
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      11-14-2012, 09:57 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by douggreglas View Post
-Initially, I wasn't able to do anything to the MULF2 in NCS Expert. After I'd coded the other modules, bluetooth showed up in my settings, but clicking on the turn on bluetooth box did absolutely nothing. No check mark appeared, no error message, nothing.

-Inside NCS Expert, when attempting to "Process ECU" (such as the "2MULF"), NCS displays which files it needs in order to interact with that module. After many frustrations, I noticed that I was missing the file ULF2_HI.PRG. Once I'd obtained the file and put it in the correct folder, I was able to reset (SG_RESET) the MULF. I was not able to enact the SG_CODIEREN command on it. Immediately after resetting, though, bluetooth started working!

-While trying to get the coding to work, I reset the ECU that controls the sunroof. This caused the car to throw an error code - it needs to have the sunroof's travel distance calibrated, otherwise it can't tell the difference between pinching someone's fingers and being all the way closed. To fix this (with the sunroof and shade completely closed), I pressed up on the sunroof button and held for 2-3 minutes. After a while, everything opened all the way, and then closed all the way. This was its calibration procedure.

I believe the same applies to the windows - if you somehow lose the calibration data, it'll get upset, and a similar procedure will re-calibrate it.
I too have the same options as the original post (including Sirius) and believe I am experiencing the same problem with coding you mention here with the "please wait" issue. I am looking for anyone on this post to confirm - with the picture I've included - that this is in fact the same scenario and if so - will the coding douggreglas mentions work.

The picture here shows the BT activation screen under Telephone - Options; you can see it is not editable (I cannot click the check box; I can highlight the option with the iDrive controls, but pressing the iDrive button does nothing). On the Telephone screen itself (not pictured) the screen sits with a rotating circle and the screen says "please wait". The car has gone to sleep - but no resolution
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      11-14-2012, 12:31 PM   #105
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It looks like you've gotten farther than gjimmy and I did when he had that problem - we'd try to click on 'telephone' and immediately get the 'please wait.' We never could enter it.

In any case, what worked for him, and what I'd recommend doing, is to process the whole car and run the SG_RESET job on it.
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      11-14-2012, 03:40 PM   #106
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It looks like you've gotten farther than gjimmy and I did when he had that problem - we'd try to click on 'telephone' and immediately get the 'please wait.' We never could enter it.

In any case, what worked for him, and what I'd recommend doing, is to process the whole car and run the SG_RESET job on it.
Thanks! When you (Alexwhittemore) say "process the whole car" - what are you referring to?
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      11-14-2012, 04:33 PM   #107
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If you open NCS Expert, File>load>expertmode.

VIN/ZCS/FA->ZCS/FA f. ECU

E89>ok>CAS>ok
Back
as usual.

At this point, you'd normally F4(Process ECU). INSTEAD, F3(Process Car) then F1 code car. I think at the point you now have the option to change job, so you change it to SG_RESET then run. You'll know it processed the whole car if the list of modules after "get coded:" includes everything you'd expect, like KOMBI,2MULF,IHK,NFRM,etc,etc.
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      11-17-2012, 10:45 AM   #108
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Originally Posted by Jpropri View Post
I too have the same options as the original post (including Sirius) and believe I am experiencing the same problem with coding you mention here with the "please wait" issue. I am looking for anyone on this post to confirm - with the picture I've included - that this is in fact the same scenario and if so - will the coding douggreglas mentions work.

The picture here shows the BT activation screen under Telephone - Options; you can see it is not editable (I cannot click the check box; I can highlight the option with the iDrive controls, but pressing the iDrive button does nothing). On the Telephone screen itself (not pictured) the screen sits with a rotating circle and the screen says "please wait". The car has gone to sleep - but no resolution

You have a different interface (newer model?) than I do, so I can't confirm, but: it sure looks like the same problem. The nav computer thinks you have bluetooth and gives you the option, the MULF thinks you don't have bluetooth and completely ignores the attempt to turn BT on.

If you're going to try doing SG_RESET, try doing just the 2MULF first.
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      11-22-2012, 10:05 AM   #109
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I finally got my car coded. I have an 08 e92 with idrive and the prewiring. I installed the antenna and did the mic rewiring per the post. (Thanks for the great detailed posts everyone)

After the second try my local coder was able to get Bluetooth enabled, however the phone screen now says "insert SIM card" and I can't access the phone controls or contacts but I can successfully make and receive calls via Bluetooth! I did more research and it looks like it is trying to detect the sim in the tcu which I don't have (due to ULF retrofit) or the phone cradle. Is there any way to avoid sim detection? The sim in my Verizon iPhone 5 is working so it's obviously not that and I even tried an iPhone 4, 4s on AT&T and same results. I can make and receive calls via Bluetooth but can't control it via the car controls due to the "insert SIM card" message.

Any advice would be appreciated! PM me if you are interested in the local greater Seattle area coder. He's great!
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      11-22-2012, 09:30 PM   #110
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I finally got my car coded. I have an 08 e92 with idrive and the prewiring. I installed the antenna and did the mic rewiring per the post. (Thanks for the great detailed posts everyone)

After the second try my local coder was able to get Bluetooth enabled, however the phone screen now says "insert SIM card" and I can't access the phone controls or contacts but I can successfully make and receive calls via Bluetooth! I did more research and it looks like it is trying to detect the sim in the tcu which I don't have (due to ULF retrofit) or the phone cradle. Is there any way to avoid sim detection? The sim in my Verizon iPhone 5 is working so it's obviously not that and I even tried an iPhone 4, 4s on AT&T and same results. I can make and receive calls via Bluetooth but can't control it via the car controls due to the "insert SIM card" message.

Any advice would be appreciated! PM me if you are interested in the local greater Seattle area coder. He's great!
what VO was added? the correct VO should be $664 or $644. if $639 is used, this is the wrong one as it's for the TCU.
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