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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > HELP. Please. Stud stuck on engine head. during turbo install



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      11-20-2012, 05:57 PM   #1
sammy_0559
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Unhappy HELP. Please. Stud stuck on engine head. during turbo install

Im having major issues with this stud the Star part broke off and im now using a Visegrip to try break it lose its not going in or out ITS COMPLETLY SEIZED UP i feel like its about to break off i dont want that to happen. Anyone got ideas or anyone local that can help


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      11-20-2012, 06:11 PM   #2
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Yikes, you might try something like this; autozone might loan them out.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P
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      11-20-2012, 06:12 PM   #3
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I'm no expert, but have you tried heating it ? Maybe someone else will chime in, but you may have to drill and re-tap.
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      11-20-2012, 06:25 PM   #4
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Heat up the stud with blow torch
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      11-20-2012, 06:28 PM   #5
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Are you taking your turbos off? That happened to my evo had to drill and tap
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      11-20-2012, 06:38 PM   #6
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I was going to say you should try and double nut it but you may have already trashed the threads using the vice grip.
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      11-20-2012, 06:55 PM   #7
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I was going to say you should try and double nut it but you may have already trashed the threads using the vice grip.
Yea I was thinking the same thing.

If you still have good thread left. Try putting two nuts on the stud. You then tighten the two nuts against each other. Then use the locked nuts to loosen the stud with a normal box end wrench.

Hope that helps.
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      11-20-2012, 07:02 PM   #8
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Heat it then hit it with some canned air to shock cool it. If that doesn't work try some wax from a cheap candle while it's hot. Heat is likely the answer, anyway... time to get out the torch
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      11-20-2012, 07:12 PM   #9
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double nut if possible.
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      11-20-2012, 07:21 PM   #10
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find the big ape that tightened it
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      11-20-2012, 08:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn555ic View Post
Heat up the stud with blow torch
Its aluminum :/ i dunno i will give it a shot tomorrow morning

Quote:
Originally Posted by King mode View Post
double nut if possible.
WIll try tomorrow also

thanks everyone for the input
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      11-20-2012, 08:50 PM   #12
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Propane won't burn hot enough to melt the aluminum. Warm it up, with butane or propane, not the stud, but the area around the stud on the head. You want that to expand.
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      11-21-2012, 12:46 AM   #13
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Try a rag over the threads before doing the vise grips. You could also flatten each side with a cutoff tool/ grinder. Then use your vise grips again.
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      11-21-2012, 12:54 AM   #14
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Common on turbo studs and bolts we see because of the heat. Not only on these cars but many others. If you can get in there take a small hammer and give some nice raps right on the head solid, this shocking really helps in breaking things lose. Make sure you get a nice solid hit directly on the end so you dont snap it off. Then and this is key, you are going to have to work it back and forth. if you get a tiny turn out, take whatever you are using to turn it back the other way, use this method and you can get it turn out a little at a time where if you just tried to back it out, its most likely going to break if it is really seized. I am a firm believer any bolt or stud can be removed without breaking if you give it the proper time and and tools. I do also agree with the propane torch on the head itself not the stud, on turbine housings we use oxy / acy torches as they can take the heat but the aluminum cant. Get it nice and hot, whack it nice and straight and while the its still hot trying turning it out and see if it moves, repeat until you get it out. Good luck
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      11-21-2012, 06:41 AM   #15
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A small pipe wrench can work better than vice grips for getting a grip on a stud that is being difficult. (A lot of my wrenching experience is on cars far older than the ones we are discussing here, so dealing with corrosion and stuck fasteners is a way of life.)

Also, not to restart a flame war that's been going on for decades, but WD-40 is not a penetrating oil. Use a real penetrating oil like Kroil, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster. Or if ou have some acetone laying around mix it 50/50 with ATF and put it in a hand oiler and use that, it works surprisingly well.
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      11-21-2012, 08:37 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vargasturbotech View Post
Common on turbo studs and bolts we see because of the heat. Not only on these cars but many others. If you can get in there take a small hammer and give some nice raps right on the head solid, this shocking really helps in breaking things lose. Make sure you get a nice solid hit directly on the end so you dont snap it off. Then and this is key, you are going to have to work it back and forth. if you get a tiny turn out, take whatever you are using to turn it back the other way, use this method and you can get it turn out a little at a time where if you just tried to back it out, its most likely going to break if it is really seized. I am a firm believer any bolt or stud can be removed without breaking if you give it the proper time and and tools. I do also agree with the propane torch on the head itself not the stud, on turbine housings we use oxy / acy torches as they can take the heat but the aluminum cant. Get it nice and hot, whack it nice and straight and while the its still hot trying turning it out and see if it moves, repeat until you get it out. Good luck

Thank you so much for your input i really appreciate it and absolutely cannot wait to see how awesome your products come out. if it does break do u think a retap with a M7 Time Sert might work?

I was able to get two nuts on it last night but didn't attempt to turn it because i need to apply heat so ill do it this afternoon.


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      11-21-2012, 10:57 AM   #17
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PB blaster has always worked miracles for me...and I heat it too. Let the PB soak for a while.

Good luck, been there before and don't want to go back.
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      11-21-2012, 11:33 AM   #18
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Just FYI, might be worth a shot...acetone mixed 50/50 with Power Steering Fluid (PSF, not ATF).

http://www.sterkel.com/papers/vintag...ating_Oils.pdf
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      11-21-2012, 12:23 PM   #19
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Both those nuts need to be Aligned correctly or the rachet socket will not reach the bottom nut.
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      11-21-2012, 12:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Both those nuts need to be Aligned correctly or the rachet socket will not reach the bottom nut.
Did not work the threads were already bad heated didnt move anywhere FML.

Heating didnt work, also banged with a hammer hard and still wont budge. when i removed the oil lines on the front turbo it was already pre marked with sharpy. "F" im guessing someone else f**ked it up



ANy other ideas
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      11-21-2012, 03:13 PM   #21
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heat it with map gas for a good amount of time, 15 mins. after letting it soak in pb blasster for 45 mins
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      11-21-2012, 04:19 PM   #22
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stud removal tool always saved me. I snapped one on my b7 audi doing the timing belt, back it right out in seconds.
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