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      01-14-2012, 04:33 PM   #1
jyhash
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Unhappy 2007 328i has no electrical power, will not start

Hi folks,

My 2007 328i sedan has a problem: Yesterday, I took her to lunch with no issu at around noon. When I left work, 5 hours later that day, I tried to unlock her with the Keyfob, but whenever I pressed unlock, she wouldn't. Not only would she not unlock, but her interior lighting would not activate (as it normally does, when she is unlocked). The only thing that occurred was her alarm would begin to sound for about a minute, and would continue to do so every time I hit the lock or unlock button. Eventually she stopped even responding to button pushes. I took out the emergency key, and unlocked the driver's side door, and put in the keyfob and pushed the start button. Nothing happened. Her dash wouldn't light up, the START button had no effect.

I thought at first, it might be the Keyfob. Perhaps it lost its charge, or was time to order a new one if it lost its signaling capabilities. So I got a friend to take me home so I could get my wife's Keyfob. Once we returned and tried it, it had no effect.

I then thought, perhaps something had drained her battery, so I attempted to get a jumpstart from my colleague, but it had no effect. Car was completely dead. I then called a tow truck. He came out tried it with one of those jumper packs, and when that had no effect, tried connecting it in a normal jumpstart way, which also had no effect. He ohm tested the battery in the trunk, and it said that it had a charge. He was stumped, as I continued to be for the past 3 hours I had tried to get her started.

Eventually, I had to take it to a mechanic, and being as this had occurred at 6PM on a Friday and didn't get towed until 9PM, I won't be able to get her looked at until monday. Which is aggravating in and of itself.

Does anyone here know what it might be? I did some searching online whilst waiting for the Tow Truck, and found that someone had a similar problem that was related to the IBS (internal battery sensor) on the car, but I'm not sure if my car utilizes such a sensor. I'd like to know if anyone has any clues, and the general cost, just so I can prepare for the wallop I'm going to receive from the Mechanics once they look at it.

Thanks for all you help.

~JYH
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      01-14-2012, 05:47 PM   #2
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Quote:
I did some searching online whilst waiting for the Tow Truck, and found that someone had a similar problem that was related to the IBS (internal battery sensor) on the car, but I'm not sure if my car utilizes such a sensor.

This is probably the issue from what you have started. The battery has a charge but nothing happened except the alarm until that stopped.

How old is the battery? If it's original then expect problems but this is different because it has a charge.

I am NOT an expert, but it may be the IBS as you have already searched.

Keep us updated. This is a unique scenario and it may be helpful in the future to other people with this problem.
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      01-14-2012, 05:58 PM   #3
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That sounds like a pain in the ass. Good luck!
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      01-14-2012, 06:08 PM   #4
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My first thought, after battery, was the IBS. Your car does utilize this technology.
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      01-15-2012, 12:20 AM   #5
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=549735&page=3

Read this thread. I hope this is not the issue. GL
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      01-15-2012, 07:53 AM   #6
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Did the dash light up at least when the charger was hooked up? My dash lit up but no start until my starter was replaced. They thought it was the key fob too, lol.
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      01-15-2012, 09:35 AM   #7
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This seems to have happened to older 328s as of late....g/l
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      09-03-2012, 02:13 PM   #8
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yea im having the same problem with mine. i have a sub hooked up but it was disconnected and i tried jumping it and nothing would happen (but the dashlights lit up when i jumped it, but it didnt start. although i forgot to check the fuse box to see if any fuses were blown. i was sitting there scratching my head on what it could be.
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      09-03-2012, 02:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sports89man7 View Post
yea im having the same problem with mine. i have a sub hooked up but it was disconnected and i tried jumping it and nothing would happen (but the dashlights lit up when i jumped it, but it didnt start. although i forgot to check the fuse box to see if any fuses were blown. i was sitting there scratching my head on what it could be.
Internal Battery Sensor, IBS.
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      09-03-2012, 09:42 PM   #10
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is the ibs that module on top of the battery?
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      12-01-2012, 06:23 PM   #11
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Also having similar problem

Shut off car for 30 minutes. Return to dead car.

Doors are locked, and won't open with key, or with Fob, or with BMW assist.

Climbed in trough trunk, and the can't get doors open from the inside either. The start button does nothing, no interior lights.

Car has a new battery, and the battery voltage is measuring fine, so it isn't a dead battery. New battery was a result of a more minor problem a fw weeks ago

I'm perplexed. What if I was inside the car - I would not be able to get out! This seems to be a serious safety problem with the design of this car.

I will search more about the IBS. This may be a clue. Car is under extended warranty, and will be towed to the dealer. I want to understand better, so I can decide whether to get rid of the car.
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      12-01-2012, 06:47 PM   #12
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Potential fix

Glansberry,

I found out what it was, at least on my vehicle: There is a design flaw in the fusebox located in the glovebox. Essentially what BMW did is make the fusebox connection to the battery cable a simple plastic clip, instead of a bolted down connection. When the car is driven, the battery cable gets jostled and electricity arcs between the connection, and does one of two things: fries the connection, or disconnects from the box. This can be temporarily fixed by opening the glove box, removing the fuse box cover, reaching around the back of the fusebox on the right hand side and jostling the cable until it regains the connection. This will at least make the car temporarily drivable, but it may lose its connection again.

When I got the car repaired, it was out of warranty, so it cost me a pretty penny. So be thankful yours is under warranty: it cost me $1200 to fix. It needed a new fusebox because my connection had melted, and labor to figure out the problem was the big cost because no one knows what the issue was.

But you'r right, it is a major safety concern, and I wish that I got reimbursed by BMW for what was an obvious design flaw. I'd make sure that you talk good and long with the service advisor at the BMW Service Center to make sure it won't continue to be an issue after your warranty expires. But this was a definitely one of the main factors in me getting rid of my '07 328i and trading up to an '09 335i.

Hope this helps.

~JYH
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      01-03-2013, 11:23 AM   #13
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Exclamation Help Asap Please!!!!!!!

I just encountered this problem yesterday. I drove to work just fine and then couldn't even unlock the car with the fob, or turn on any electronics inside the car, including the emergency flashers. I started checking fuses, but all the obvious ones were fine and I am not about to spend an hour checking each fuse, especially outside in my parking lot, at night time. PITA!

I am going to have the car towed to the dealer, but I only have an extended warranty through a third party (not BMW). From past experience with warranty issues, BMW is much easier to work with, plus I have a $250 deductible for each warranty case. Should have got the warranty through BMW, I know.

Is there any possibility that it is still just a fuse causing ALL the electronics to fail? The battery and engine posts both show ~12 volts.

Help!

Steve
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      01-03-2013, 12:55 PM   #14
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Ok!there seems to be problem somewhere,yesterday i washed my Great-White and today am supposed to go to work it would not start the engine turned but the pumps kept quiet,i'm new with these cars,i checked the relay and fuses,E90 320i plz help......
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      01-03-2013, 02:15 PM   #15
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RTFP...



Has anybody checked out if it is the Battery Connector on the back of their fusebox? Has any one tried jiggling it to see if their car starts? Save yourself a tow and jiggle the cable, then test if things will start or turn on.

Read all the posts in the thread before screaming for help.

Steve, you don't need to check every fuse. Most likely it isn't a fuse. Reach behind the fuse box, find the big cable, and give it a good press towards the fuse box, or jiggle it up and down. If it is completely fried, then my apologies: you'll need a new fuse box, possibly a new B+ Battery cable. Hope it is just the fuse box, because otherwise you'll have to replace a cable that runs through the frame which means interior removal.

Good Luck.
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      01-03-2013, 02:48 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndog14 View Post
Internal Battery Sensor, IBS.
So that's what it is .... Thought it was something to do with bowels ...
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      01-03-2013, 03:02 PM   #17
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Yes, I read about jiggling a cable. But I am at work and thought I could get more input before I try on my lunch break. I don't know exactly where the cable is and it's currently a PITA to crawl and twist in my car to get to the fuse box, etc. I am going to try right now.

Thanks.
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      01-03-2013, 03:22 PM   #18
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Is this fixed on newer models? I have a 2010 328i and am scared after reading this post?

Is this something I should bring up in a couple weeks when I'm going in for service?

Thanks and good luck...
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      01-03-2013, 03:40 PM   #19
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I removed the cover below the glove box to gain better access. Wiggled a bunch of crap back there. It probably was the very thick RED cable (indicating +12V, I assume). It's all pretty crowded back there, but I got all power back right away.

I am going to call the dealer to see if they have heard of the problem before and if I should get anything done under warranty/TSB. I'll post my findings.
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      01-03-2013, 05:02 PM   #20
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Holy crap, this sucks for us owners that this cheap clip affects...

Glad your power came back though..
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      01-03-2013, 07:11 PM   #21
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Scheduled appt. for tomorrow at dealer. At least I don't have to tow it there now! I'll post what they tell me.
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      01-04-2013, 08:40 AM   #22
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There is a TSB for this. The junction box and B+ cable, running from the trunk to behind the glovebox need to be replaced. It happened to my car and my dealer quoted me "10 to 15" hours of labor + parts. I didn't want to DIY because my fingers are fat and I hate that type of work, so I took it to an indy who charged 3.5 hours + parts.

Good luck.
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