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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > repaclace window regulator



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      07-25-2011, 07:24 PM   #45
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so i just had my brakes/rotors changed and as i was pulling out of the shops driveway and my RIGHT window motor breaks. (left window is currently broken and propped up closed until i had other repairs that were not my doing were repaired). thanks bmw!
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      08-15-2011, 06:40 PM   #46
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so i had the regulator on both sides replaced, and the motor on the left rear drivers side replaced as well. I had a problem though, the new motor didnt come with screws so the shop had to move screws from the door to the motor until i get replacement screws (the old motor and regulator were thrown away on accident). so frustrating, but the windows work again.
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      10-14-2011, 05:16 AM   #47
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I wish i have seen it before. I have the clip on the rear left window broken. Have bought new one (not oem) from Turkey.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E90-WIND...item27b7aa5015
Tomorrow it is scheduled to be done. I will than post my first DIY thread.
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      11-24-2011, 02:39 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pruettfan View Post
That green plastic tab you speak of is the flaw that has created the issues. I am getting ready to do a major write up of this issue because I had two fail within 10 days on each side of the car.
Just was doing this, can I just replace the clip? Seems like those are around $15 instead of $75?
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      12-02-2011, 05:57 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supraboard View Post
Just was doing this, can I just replace the clip? Seems like those are around $15 instead of $75?
Not sure if you can do it, even if that was the only problem. However, the clip most likely broke because the cable is frayed and got tangled up, forcing the clip to break. So just replacing the clip won't fix it, even if you can untangle the cable and get it to wind up/down, probably won't last very long because of the frayed cable. Best off replacing the whole regulator.

Unless you can install a whole new cable along with the clip. Didn't think of that till now. Actually have access to cables that would work and the tools needed to shank it too. Oh well, part cost me $91 at the dealership. Tischer has it for $72.
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      01-21-2012, 04:54 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by Spy021 View Post
Thanks for taking the time to post the DYI... It helped immensely while changing my window regulator. For those that also need a little more of a visual, I found this to be helpful, too.

YEAH! Awesome DIY!

Just changed my rear passenger window regulator.......

looks like my rear driver side might be going out soon....AGAIN!
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      02-14-2012, 10:40 PM   #51
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im having a b*tch time removing the wires that connest the speaker on e92 from panel to take it off any advice or trick? i see a little clip spot but cant do it? thanks!
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      02-17-2012, 07:43 PM   #52
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"UP" works for me, but in my case I've hold up 10-20 sec. Then restarted the car and message went off.
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      02-21-2012, 05:29 PM   #53
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wow dealers wanted $450+

but done it for $82 for part and 30 min of work for first time.

Thx All for DIY!
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      03-05-2012, 07:42 PM   #54
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Whats the trick to remove the cable on door panel switch

I've removed the regulator and waiting on new part to arrive. I want to remove the door panel completely but the cable attached to the switch which controls the window has baffled me.

I don't want to break anything. Is there a trick for this?
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      03-05-2012, 10:42 PM   #55
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I used a small screwdriver to pry it off. If i recall there is a small tab that locks it on
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      05-30-2012, 01:41 PM   #56
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Is there a way to figure out if it's the regulator or the motor before opening clowing it while waiting for the part and then going through the process again?
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      08-18-2012, 12:57 PM   #57
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Gosh i'm right here in front of my disassembled rear passenger door and i'm having a big issue trying to remove the motor.

One of the T20 screws is blocked by the doorframe and because of such, I cannot remove the motor.

Can someone please advise me what to do, i'm really confused as what to do lol. I'd like to think i'm not fully helpless here but I can't help but feel that way now that i'm being blocked from proceeding...

The regulator and motor will not budge :c

http://i.imgur.com/WSiNC.jpg
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      08-18-2012, 05:00 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TyPe-ZeRo View Post
Gosh i'm right here in front of my disassembled rear passenger door and i'm having a big issue trying to remove the motor.

One of the T20 screws is blocked by the doorframe and because of such, I cannot remove the motor.

Can someone please advise me what to do, i'm really confused as what to do lol. I'd like to think i'm not fully helpless here but I can't help but feel that way now that i'm being blocked from proceeding...

The regulator and motor will not budge :c

http://i.imgur.com/WSiNC.jpg
Minute 7:49 of the video on page 2

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...1&postcount=41

Guy has same problem, loosen the two screws on the regulator to get you a little wiggle room.
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      08-19-2012, 02:24 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g9sBMW View Post
Minute 7:49 of the video on page 2

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...1&postcount=41

Guy has same problem, loosen the two screws on the regulator to get you a little wiggle room.
Thanks! That's actually the video I was using. I was stupid, there was a bolt on the bottom that I didn't unscrew. Oh gosh, I can't believe this took me three hours to figure out lol. Oh well, should be 30 minutes when it eventually fails again haha.

Now on to fix my rear left door actuator
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      10-23-2012, 09:50 PM   #60
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Has anyone bought the non OEM part? Seems like a big difference. OEM is $99 and non OEM is $51

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51357140589/
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      11-09-2012, 11:46 AM   #61
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Thanks to all of you that take the time to post these DIYs. I was able to replace my regulator in about 30-35 minutes and there's no way I could have done it without you!

Quick couple questions. After I finished, the window would only go up or down in little "steps" of about 3 inches. Then I did the reset (hold the switch down for 4 seconds after it was all the way up) and then it would go down completely if I held the switch up or down. What doesn't seem to work though is the "auto-up" feature, where I just hit the switch up once and to the top position and the window goes up completely without me having to hold the switch up. Any ideas what I still need to do? I tried to do another reset on the down position but that didn't fix it.

Last, I ended up with an "extra" part. I don't know where it came from. When I took the old regulator out I noticed it was at the bottom of the door on the inside. Any ideas what this is?

""
""
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      11-09-2012, 11:51 PM   #62
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Insert key into slot. press start but do not start the car.

Press and hold down the corresponding window button for 10 seconds then press and hold down the button up for 10 seconds.

take key out. turn on car. that should reset the window.
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      12-02-2012, 10:40 AM   #63
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Echoing most everyone else, thanks for the video and other hints and tips. Tremendous help.

jcamber, sorry i'm so late with this posting, but I saw your post before I did my regulator and looked pretty thoroughly for that part you posted. I didn't see anything like it. I've got a 2007 328i.

Makes me think I might could do that front headlight assembly after all...
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      04-15-2013, 01:42 PM   #64
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My rear left passenger windows regulator died (or get broken) this weekend.
Read this post, watch video - don't have guts to do this my self - ask friends for help. Take him about 30 min + $127 for original BMW part. I learning hard way that for this car better buy original parts.
Thank you all for help on this DIY.
This is what happen to my regulator.
P.S. Programming windows as described here was not working. Windows go down and then up and as soon as it reach up position it going down half way. My friend programming windows with his computer. take 30 sec.
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      04-19-2013, 08:15 PM   #65
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Leave door open

I tried this about 10 times with my rear right window, and couldn't get it to work (it would continuously get to the top and go 1/2 way down). So then I decided to try it with the door open, and it worked.
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      06-05-2013, 09:00 PM   #66
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Thanks for this.
I used this along with this video to help me out


I'm not sure why, but on my car, the 3rd screw holding the motor onto the bracket (the top-most one) was a bit further up behind the frame of the door. I had to loosen the 3 screws holding the regulator piece, and completely remove the bottom two screws to allow the thing to slide down a bit to get to the 3rd screw. Same thing on the install. I want to say it had to do with the position of my window, but that was totally different during the install, so I am not sure why.
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