E90Post
 


E92-lighting
 
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Oil cooler on N52



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      11-24-2012, 01:21 PM   #1
Doc K
Fleet Admiral ★★★★★
 
Doc K's Avatar
 
Drives: E90 325i SG
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Woodinville

Posts: 498
iTrader: (2)

Send a message via Skype™ to Doc K
Oil cooler on N52

Can I do this? What will it do, performance wise? It sounds like a fun project.
Doc K is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      11-24-2012, 03:42 PM   #2
kiwi29
Team iTouge
 
kiwi29's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 M-Tech 328i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Long Beach, CA

Posts: 2,071
iTrader: (9)

+1 for this! I was also curious for this mod but it doesn't seem likely as we only have one bolt up top as where the n54/55 has two bolts where the oil filter housing is. Unless there's a way to tap another hole or if there is another hole tapped, it seems unlikely
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
kiwi29 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-01-2012, 04:31 PM   #3
jzchen
Captain
 
Drives: 335xi Sedan
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Arcadia, CA

Posts: 633
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
+1 for this! I was also curious for this mod but it doesn't seem likely as we only have one bolt up top as where the n54/55 has two bolts where the oil filter housing is. Unless there's a way to tap another hole or if there is another hole tapped, it seems unlikely
Oil filter housing looks the same to me. Do you have an overheating problem?
jzchen is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-01-2012, 06:06 PM   #4
kiwi29
Team iTouge
 
kiwi29's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 M-Tech 328i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Long Beach, CA

Posts: 2,071
iTrader: (9)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzchen View Post
Oil filter housing looks the same to me. Do you have an overheating problem?
I use to but not anymore, I've changed out a few things since then (radiator/ coolant flush, oil change, checked the thermostat etc.) The oil filter housing on n54/55s have an extra bolt on the housing that's up top, the housing also looks slightly bigger also. If you look at it on a top view, there are two housing drain plugs on the top instead of just one
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
kiwi29 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-01-2012, 06:29 PM   #5
3002 tii
Major General
 
3002 tii's Avatar
 
Drives: flat out
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NNJ

Posts: 7,938
iTrader: (43)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunners_Mate View Post
Can I do this? What will it do, performance wise? It sounds like a fun project.

If you don't have any overheating problems, there's no use. I track my car hard and the needle always stays in the middle.
__________________

Recaro | Volk | AST | Vorshlag | Quaife | Stoptech | Active Autowerke | BMW Performance

Click here for my track videos
3002 tii is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-01-2012, 06:31 PM   #6
Doc K
Fleet Admiral ★★★★★
 
Doc K's Avatar
 
Drives: E90 325i SG
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Woodinville

Posts: 498
iTrader: (2)

Send a message via Skype™ to Doc K
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSC_OFF View Post
Wait, if you're not sure what it'll do, why would you do it?

If you don't have any overheating problems, there's no use. I track my car hard and the needle always stays in the middle.
I meant to ask how much of a benefit it might provide. It seems like a fun project to undertake.
Doc K is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-01-2012, 09:01 PM   #7
e90pilot
Freight Dawg
 
e90pilot's Avatar
 
Drives: E90 325i
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Oakland, CA

Posts: 2,090
iTrader: (3)

I've done it to my car. I'm using the Stett stage II and it works fine. My track temps were almost 315C and now they're 270-280C. Water temps were never an issue (until the head gasket started leaking). The oil can survive 300C+ but it breaks down really fast. I think the car will cut power at 350C but I'm not too sure about that.
__________________
--Marcelo
'06 Arctic Metallic 325i | Sport Package | 6MT | Dinan Stage III suspension | Dinan exhaust | 330i manifold swap! Click here! | Active Autowerke tune | 135i Brake Calipers | Deiselboost caliper brackets | E46 M3 front rotors
e90pilot is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-02-2012, 09:19 AM   #8
jzchen
Captain
 
Drives: 335xi Sedan
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Arcadia, CA

Posts: 633
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
I use to but not anymore, I've changed out a few things since then (radiator/ coolant flush, oil change, checked the thermostat etc.) The oil filter housing on n54/55s have an extra bolt on the housing that's up top, the housing also looks slightly bigger also. If you look at it on a top view, there are two housing drain plugs on the top instead of just one
I actually have both. My N54 didn't have an oil cooler and I retrofitted it. My wife's N51 doesn't. They both seem to be the same. I will try to verify when I get the chance. (I actually took a picture of the inside of my wife's when I did an oil change for her two days ago remembering this thread. The part number is 67 402 30 310. On top is Al Si9Cu3(FE). I am trying to attach a picture. If you do a retrofit buy 3 replacement bolts for the 3 that mount it, to the whatever you call it. In another thread I think I called it the block and someone corrected me. I forget what it is exactly. Anyways, I recommend it, because it seems to be an Aluminum part and most likely uses Aluminum bolts which are one time use: "Al"uminum "Si"licon Cu (Copper) FE (Iron? I'm not sure why the E is capitalized. I could be wrong on this one.) It's worth saving the headache of possibly having to change the gasket from a leak issue later. Then you might wonder maybe I should have changed those 3 bolts for a few dollars... If you do a retrofit if I remember correctly you should be able to torque each fastener to spec with a torque wrench. I think I used a 3/8 inch size.) When you do a retrofit, you have to change the oil filter housing...

http://s771.beta.photobucket.com/use...lter%20housing
jzchen is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-02-2012, 03:56 PM   #9
kiwi29
Team iTouge
 
kiwi29's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 M-Tech 328i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Long Beach, CA

Posts: 2,071
iTrader: (9)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzchen View Post
I actually have both. My N54 didn't have an oil cooler and I retrofitted it. My wife's N51 doesn't. They both seem to be the same. I will try to verify when I get the chance. (I actually took a picture of the inside of my wife's when I did an oil change for her two days ago remembering this thread. The part number is 67 402 30 310. On top is Al Si9Cu3(FE). I am trying to attach a picture. If you do a retrofit buy 3 replacement bolts for the 3 that mount it, to the whatever you call it. In another thread I think I called it the block and someone corrected me. I forget what it is exactly. Anyways, I recommend it, because it seems to be an Aluminum part and most likely uses Aluminum bolts which are one time use: "Al"uminum "Si"licon Cu (Copper) FE (Iron? I'm not sure why the E is capitalized. I could be wrong on this one.) It's worth saving the headache of possibly having to change the gasket from a leak issue later. Then you might wonder maybe I should have changed those 3 bolts for a few dollars... If you do a retrofit if I remember correctly you should be able to torque each fastener to spec with a torque wrench. I think I used a 3/8 inch size.) When you do a retrofit, you have to change the oil filter housing...

http://s771.beta.photobucket.com/use...lter%20housing
Ohh I was unaware that some come without the oil cooler. I didn't realize you can retrofit it but now I wonder is it worth it or not. Have you tried to retro fit it on the n51?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
kiwi29 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-02-2012, 06:04 PM   #10
jzchen
Captain
 
Drives: 335xi Sedan
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Arcadia, CA

Posts: 633
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
Ohh I was unaware that some come without the oil cooler. I didn't realize you can retrofit it but now I wonder is it worth it or not. Have you tried to retro fit it on the n51?
That's my wife's car. She's not really into this modification stuff. I did her oil change because the store she takes it to wanted $90 for Mobil 1. I told her I didn't think that was worth $90.

Xis don't have oil coolers unless they came with the sports package and 18 inch wheel upgrade. At least that was my understanding....
jzchen is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-03-2012, 02:16 AM   #11
kiwi29
Team iTouge
 
kiwi29's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 M-Tech 328i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Long Beach, CA

Posts: 2,071
iTrader: (9)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzchen View Post
That's my wife's car. She's not really into this modification stuff. I did her oil change because the store she takes it to wanted $90 for Mobil 1. I told her I didn't think that was worth $90.

Xis don't have oil coolers unless they came with the sports package and 18 inch wheel upgrade. At least that was my understanding....
I have the mtech/msport package and it didn't seem to come with an oil cooler or even the option to I guess they only see 335s and m3's needing it
Btw, mobil 1 is no where near 90. 7 qts. + filter only costs 60-75 buying separately or even in packages shipped from a website. Good thing you didn't sucker down to it, the other few bucks is for "labor" (there's really nothing to it. Its a rip off as I see it and a simple and quick diy.)
I guess they love suckering the people who are lazy or don't have the knowledge or tools to do so
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
kiwi29 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-03-2012, 06:45 AM   #12
jzchen
Captain
 
Drives: 335xi Sedan
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Arcadia, CA

Posts: 633
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
I have the mtech/msport package and it didn't seem to come with an oil cooler or even the option to I guess they only see 335s and m3's needing it
Btw, mobil 1 is no where near 90. 7 qts. + filter only costs 60-75 buying separately or even in packages shipped from a website. Good thing you didn't sucker down to it, the other few bucks is for "labor" (there's really nothing to it. Its a rip off as I see it and a simple and quick diy.)
I guess they love suckering the people who are lazy or don't have the knowledge or tools to do so
Yes, I think the extra heat from the exhaust warming the air and getting compressed through the turbos makes the engine run hotter. I haven't really heard of the NAs getting overheated much...

FWIW the $90 is total cost. BUT, have you been to Autozone, O'Reilly, or Pep Boys? Autozone, as well as the others, has them on special every 3 months or so for around $30+ for 5 qts and an oil filter. (You can check their ads on their websites for when it is available. They cycle the major brands so it's around 3 months before the next time Mobil 1 goes up. I usually stock up and if you are in the Autozone rewards program every 4 or 5 purchases over $20 gets you some money to spend there as well. I forget if it's $10 or $20.) I usually can't find oil cheaper online anywhere because of shipping costs. Anyways, I sucked up as much of the oil in the oil filter housing as I could without getting burned too much with paper towels, put the new oil filter in, and put about 6.5 qts BMW oil in. I did a reset with the Bavarian tech tool, and it said next change at 16000 mi. It seemed the level was not completely full, so I put the remaining half qt in. The level then went to the top. (From what I recall from the dealer it would say 13000mi. It makes me wonder....)

Searching on realoem shows that both housings are the same. I then took the part number from realoem to getbmwparts. It seems it is good for a lot of engines through 2011, so yours should be the same also. I don't know much about the N55.... You can do a retrofit if you really want to, I think. Dinan has them for the LCIs, and Mtech, at least for '08, last time I checked. Too bad the 15% off sale is up. (It took me about a week because it was my first major project on a BMW, and I was working at night when my son was asleep. I think on the NAs, maybe the N52, you can access all the bolts to the housing without having to lift up the intake manifold, but for the N54 at least, I needed to lift it up. Not sure of the N51. The curvature of the intake pipes is more curved on the N54. (Someone posted a DIY on how to replace an oil filter housing gasket, same as replacing the housing, without moving the intake manifold, but just looking at my N54 I realized there was no way the top bolt was going to come out without moving it.) I could try to verify that the intake manifolds are diffferent if really needed...

I think one of the most difficult parts was putting the bumper back on. I had a lot of times where I didn't know how to take off a part. I couldn't take out the junction box(?) at one point, so instead of removing the intake manifold completely, I could only lift it up. The bumper was a tight fit with the larger Dinan cooler. I actually didn't have the original one so I can't really compare. (It was funny as my dad saw my progress and said I was ruining my perfectly good, almost new, car. It still has less than 5k on the ODO.)

Last edited by jzchen; 12-03-2012 at 07:29 AM. Reason: ...
jzchen is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-03-2012, 08:16 AM   #13
kiwi29
Team iTouge
 
kiwi29's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 M-Tech 328i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Long Beach, CA

Posts: 2,071
iTrader: (9)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzchen View Post
Yes, I think the extra heat from the exhaust warming the air and getting compressed through the turbos makes the engine run hotter. I haven't really heard of the NAs getting overheated much...

FWIW the $90 is total cost. BUT, have you been to Autozone, O'Reilly, or Pep Boys? Autozone, as well as the others, has them on special every 3 months or so for around $30+ for 5 qts and an oil filter. (You can check their ads on their websites for when it is available. They cycle the major brands so it's around 3 months before the next time Mobil 1 goes up. I usually stock up and if you are in the Autozone rewards program every 4 or 5 purchases over $20 gets you some money to spend there as well. I forget if it's $10 or $20.) I usually can't find oil cheaper online anywhere because of shipping costs. Anyways, I sucked up as much of the oil in the oil filter housing as I could without getting burned too much with paper towels, put the new oil filter in, and put about 6.5 qts BMW oil in. I did a reset with the Bavarian tech tool, and it said next change at 16000 mi. It seemed the level was not completely full, so I put the remaining half qt in. The level then went to the top. (From what I recall from the dealer it would say 13000mi. It makes me wonder....)

Searching on realoem shows that both housings are the same. I then took the part number from realoem to getbmwparts. It seems it is good for a lot of engines through 2011, so yours should be the same also. I don't know much about the N55.... You can do a retrofit if you really want to, I think. Dinan has them for the LCIs, and Mtech, at least for '08, last time I checked. Too bad the 15% off sale is up. (It took me about a week because it was my first major project on a BMW, and I was working at night when my son was asleep. I think on the NAs, maybe the N52, you can access all the bolts to the housing without having to lift up the intake manifold, but for the N54 at least, I needed to lift it up. Not sure of the N51. The curvature of the intake pipes is more curved on the N54. (Someone posted a DIY on how to replace an oil filter housing gasket, same as replacing the housing, without moving the intake manifold, but just looking at my N54 I realized there was no way the top bolt was going to come out without moving it.) I could try to verify that the intake manifolds are diffferent if really needed...

I think one of the most difficult parts was putting the bumper back on. I had a lot of times where I didn't know how to take off a part. I couldn't take out the junction box(?) at one point, so instead of removing the intake manifold completely, I could only lift it up. The bumper was a tight fit with the larger Dinan cooler. I actually didn't have the original one so I can't really compare. (It was funny as my dad saw my progress and said I was ruining my perfectly good, almost new, car. It still has less than 5k on the ODO.)
Oh I know about the local auto stores selling those DIY oil change kits. The only problem is that they only advertise the conventional oil. I'm not sure if they have it for fully syn. oils also or not but ill make sure to check next time around. I usually run 5 qts. 0w-40 and two quarts of the lucas oil stabilizer (full syn.) The oil doesn't seem to heat up much anymore or at least take forever to cool down.

Ill attach a pic of what I am talking about. Its kinda strange that they hold the same part # even if one is completely different from the other. I guess its worth some what of a try if I'm truly that bored but you're right, NAs don't usually overheat unless you drive them over the limit. My car has only overheated twice. Both times the temp warning light came on and I had to cruise at 60 back home on the freeway because my car went into a major limp mode. Whenever I gave it more gas, it'd cut off right at 4k and would bog on me a bit. Now it seems to have went away. Maybe because of the oil change up or the stabilizer. Either way, ill pass on the oil cooler mod until i fully modify my car or drive harder
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
kiwi29 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-03-2012, 11:45 AM   #14
jzchen
Captain
 
Drives: 335xi Sedan
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Arcadia, CA

Posts: 633
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
Oh I know about the local auto stores selling those DIY oil change kits. The only problem is that they only advertise the conventional oil. I'm not sure if they have it for fully syn. oils also or not but ill make sure to check next time around. I usually run 5 qts. 0w-40 and two quarts of the lucas oil stabilizer (full syn.) The oil doesn't seem to heat up much anymore or at least take forever to cool down.

Ill attach a pic of what I am talking about. Its kinda strange that they hold the same part # even if one is completely different from the other. I guess its worth some what of a try if I'm truly that bored but you're right, NAs don't usually overheat unless you drive them over the limit. My car has only overheated twice. Both times the temp warning light came on and I had to cruise at 60 back home on the freeway because my car went into a major limp mode. Whenever I gave it more gas, it'd cut off right at 4k and would bog on me a bit. Now it seems to have went away. Maybe because of the oil change up or the stabilizer. Either way, ill pass on the oil cooler mod until i fully modify my car or drive harder
They definitely sell synthetic, but the price keeps changing so that's why I said $30 plus. (It used to be around $30 with the filter.) You can definitely get Mobil 1 0w-40. I used to buy Mobil 1 at Walmart but they don't have 0w-40. Mobil 1 0w-40 is recommended fill for a lot of Mercedes vehicles, or at least all 4 in my household, model yrs '91 through '09. (I'm not sure about AMGs.) Did you use the BMW oil before? I like that the most. It is hard to find 5w-30 oil that is LL-01 rated. Valvoline is for their Synpower HST, which is only sold in 55 gallon drums. Their MST version is said to fit but is not "formally" approved. The base number is lower at 7 something. I can not find on the Pennzoil site an Ultra Euro 5w-30 that has LL-01, only 5w-40, or at least last time I checked...
jzchen is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-03-2012, 03:06 PM   #15
kiwi29
Team iTouge
 
kiwi29's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 M-Tech 328i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Long Beach, CA

Posts: 2,071
iTrader: (9)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzchen View Post
They definitely sell synthetic, but the price keeps changing so that's why I said $30 plus. (It used to be around $30 with the filter.) You can definitely get Mobil 1 0w-40. I used to buy Mobil 1 at Walmart but they don't have 0w-40. Mobil 1 0w-40 is recommended fill for a lot of Mercedes vehicles, or at least all 4 in my household, model yrs '91 through '09. (I'm not sure about AMGs.) Did you use the BMW oil before? I like that the most. It is hard to find 5w-30 oil that is LL-01 rated. Valvoline is for their Synpower HST, which is only sold in 55 gallon drums. Their MST version is said to fit but is not "formally" approved. The base number is lower at 7 something. I can not find on the Pennzoil site an Ultra Euro 5w-30 that has LL-01, only 5w-40, or at least last time I checked...
Really? Ill definitely need to grab the deal the next time it pops up!
I use to have the bmw oil when I was under warranty but it didn't seem to cool fast enough or wasn't good enough on cold starts. I usually only let my car warm for a minute before driving again from a cold and mobil 1 0w40 seemed to do it for me. I'm curious though, why is castrol edge not LL approved? Gtx doesn't exist anymore so does that mean we only use the bmw oil from the stealerships? People seem to say mobil is better and cheaper than bmw oil and you have more variations and choices with it also. The last time I checked, 0w-40 was sold in walmart, it's just you'd have to find out which one. They do sell singles though and I have a guy who sells mobil 1. 6 qts for 35 bucks for any weigh and its about a block away from home. I also see other oils that are "contenders" but they don't have the LL approval and I'm skeptical to try it. What would happen if I do? I hear a lot of people using motul and royal purple even though its not LL approved but they say it runs like a champ. What are your thoughts on that?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
kiwi29 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-04-2012, 09:38 PM   #16
jzchen
Captain
 
Drives: 335xi Sedan
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Arcadia, CA

Posts: 633
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
Really? Ill definitely need to grab the deal the next time it pops up!
I use to have the bmw oil when I was under warranty but it didn't seem to cool fast enough or wasn't good enough on cold starts. I usually only let my car warm for a minute before driving again from a cold and mobil 1 0w40 seemed to do it for me. I'm curious though, why is castrol edge not LL approved? Gtx doesn't exist anymore so does that mean we only use the bmw oil from the stealerships? People seem to say mobil is better and cheaper than bmw oil and you have more variations and choices with it also. The last time I checked, 0w-40 was sold in walmart, it's just you'd have to find out which one. They do sell singles though and I have a guy who sells mobil 1. 6 qts for 35 bucks for any weigh and its about a block away from home. I also see other oils that are "contenders" but they don't have the LL approval and I'm skeptical to try it. What would happen if I do? I hear a lot of people using motul and royal purple even though its not LL approved but they say it runs like a champ. What are your thoughts on that?
From the Valvoline tech I talked to on the phone, it is the SAPS that makes it such a long lasting oil, hence HST (high SAPS technology) has formal approval. MST, (mid SAPS technology,) was what I was told was sold in 55 gallon drums before which was LL-01 compliant, and the stuff in the stores was not approved. Now you can get MST in stores in qt sizes.. I got a part number for the MST, and you can get it at NAPA. (I'm afraid I lost it though. You can call the number on the Valvoline website and they will answer. I called the day after Thanksgiving and someone was there to answer.) I would not get anything other than LL-01. There is a reason not many oils don't have it. I noticed for example that the base number for the MST is 7, while Mobil 1 0w-40 is 10. Since I am an Amsoil dealer and they explain that the base number is what gives an oil it's longevity, you can look at that number to gauge how long an oil will last before it needs to be changed. (I haven't looked up this number for Royal Purple, Motul, etc...) The base number is like a buffer to the acid that is produced from the combustion process. That is why the higher the longer it is rated to last. Since I do not know how the oil life sensor works inside the engine, I would stray away from anything else. For example, if it is not measuring the oil, and just driving conditions, then the oil will fail before it says you need a change...
jzchen is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-05-2012, 12:50 AM   #17
kiwi29
Team iTouge
 
kiwi29's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 M-Tech 328i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Long Beach, CA

Posts: 2,071
iTrader: (9)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzchen View Post
From the Valvoline tech I talked to on the phone, it is the SAPS that makes it such a long lasting oil, hence HST (high SAPS technology) has formal approval. MST, (mid SAPS technology,) was what I was told was sold in 55 gallon drums before which was LL-01 compliant, and the stuff in the stores was not approved. Now you can get MST in stores in qt sizes.. I got a part number for the MST, and you can get it at NAPA. (I'm afraid I lost it though. You can call the number on the Valvoline website and they will answer. I called the day after Thanksgiving and someone was there to answer.) I would not get anything other than LL-01. There is a reason not many oils don't have it. I noticed for example that the base number for the MST is 7, while Mobil 1 0w-40 is 10. Since I am an Amsoil dealer and they explain that the base number is what gives an oil it's longevity, you can look at that number to gauge how long an oil will last before it needs to be changed. (I haven't looked up this number for Royal Purple, Motul, etc...) The base number is like a buffer to the acid that is produced from the combustion process. That is why the higher the longer it is rated to last. Since I do not know how the oil life sensor works inside the engine, I would stray away from anything else. For example, if it is not measuring the oil, and just driving conditions, then the oil will fail before it says you need a change...
I was looking at valvoline in walmart the other night and I didn't seem to see any LL approved oil. I did see that there was an oil brand that had LL-04? O.o what's the difference vs. LL-01?
I think ill just stick straight to mobil 1. Its a "noisy" oil according to other people but I don't seem to notice a thing, I'm kinda curious, do oil stabilizers need to be LL approved?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
kiwi29 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-05-2012, 09:50 AM   #18
Socom
Major General
 
Drives: 2010 335D
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Atl.

Posts: 5,157
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
I was looking at valvoline in walmart the other night and I didn't seem to see any LL approved oil. I did see that there was an oil brand that had LL-04? O.o what's the difference vs. LL-01?
I think ill just stick straight to mobil 1. Its a "noisy" oil according to other people but I don't seem to notice a thing, I'm kinda curious, do oil stabilizers need to be LL approved?
LL04 is a low-Saps version of LL01. LL04 has been used in parts of europe since the days of the E46/E39 etc. Both are ACEA A3/B4 but LL04 also has C3 (low Saps designation ).

Due to inconsistent sulphur levels and ethanol BMW specs LL01 for gassers in North America. US diesels use LL04.
Socom is online now  
0
Reply With Quote
      12-05-2012, 09:56 AM   #19
jzchen
Captain
 
Drives: 335xi Sedan
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Arcadia, CA

Posts: 633
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
I was looking at valvoline in walmart the other night and I didn't seem to see any LL approved oil. I did see that there was an oil brand that had LL-04? O.o what's the difference vs. LL-01?
I think ill just stick straight to mobil 1. Its a "noisy" oil according to other people but I don't seem to notice a thing, I'm kinda curious, do oil stabilizers need to be LL approved?
Yup. LL-01 is hard to find. I like to stick with the weight recommended my the car manufacturer, so 0 is too thin and 40 is too thick for me. (I've read the manuals for the '08 E90 front to back, and as I recall it recommends 5w-30.) Finding LL-01 and 5w-30 on a bottle, well, my only find is at BMW. The oil and BMW filter cost $63 and change for me at New Century in Alhambra after 10% off for being a BMW Car Club member. Still saved almost $30....

LL-04 is for diesels, as I understand. (I think it has something to do with higher level of ZDDP additive, but don't quote me on that.)

I don't use stabilizers, and haven't researched them. I don't think they are necessary if you use the right oil in the first place. Use the extra money on the right oil, I guess.

If I had bumped into a thread about overheating I would ask if you had work done on the cooling system. As I know there is a special bleeding procedure, (and tool to use, some sort of pump that you pressurize the system to a certain level,) to do when adding coolant after cooling system work. If I remember correctly I had to detach a coolant hose to install the oil cooler retrofit. I then had a performance power kit installed by a dealer since I knew they would have to bleed the system anyways...
jzchen is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-05-2012, 09:58 AM   #20
jzchen
Captain
 
Drives: 335xi Sedan
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Arcadia, CA

Posts: 633
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Socom View Post
LL04 is a low-Saps version of LL01. LL04 has been used in parts of europe since the days of the E46/E39 etc. Both are ACEA A3/B4 but LL04 also has C3 (low Saps designation ).

Due to inconsistent sulphur levels and ethanol BMW specs LL01 for gassers in North America. US diesels use LL04.
Cool, thanks for the info!
jzchen is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-05-2012, 03:17 PM   #21
kiwi29
Team iTouge
 
kiwi29's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 M-Tech 328i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Long Beach, CA

Posts: 2,071
iTrader: (9)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Socom View Post
LL04 is a low-Saps version of LL01. LL04 has been used in parts of europe since the days of the E46/E39 etc. Both are ACEA A3/B4 but LL04 also has C3 (low Saps designation ).

Due to inconsistent sulphur levels and ethanol BMW specs LL01 for gassers in North America. US diesels use LL04.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jzchen View Post
Yup. LL-01 is hard to find. I like to stick with the weight recommended my the car manufacturer, so 0 is too thin and 40 is too thick for me. (I've read the manuals for the '08 E90 front to back, and as I recall it recommends 5w-30.) Finding LL-01 and 5w-30 on a bottle, well, my only find is at BMW. The oil and BMW filter cost $63 and change for me at New Century in Alhambra after 10% off for being a BMW Car Club member. Still saved almost $30....

LL-04 is for diesels, as I understand. (I think it has something to do with higher level of ZDDP additive, but don't quote me on that.)

I don't use stabilizers, and haven't researched them. I don't think they are necessary if you use the right oil in the first place. Use the extra money on the right oil, I guess.

If I had bumped into a thread about overheating I would ask if you had work done on the cooling system. As I know there is a special bleeding procedure, (and tool to use, some sort of pump that you pressurize the system to a certain level,) to do when adding coolant after cooling system work. If I remember correctly I had to detach a coolant hose to install the oil cooler retrofit. I then had a performance power kit installed by a dealer since I knew they would have to bleed the system anyways...
Ohh I. Always thought that ll04 was the newer recommended oil for bmw. I had no idea it was for diesel. Thank you guys for the insight sorry OP
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
kiwi29 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      12-05-2012, 07:35 PM   #22
Socom
Major General
 
Drives: 2010 335D
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Atl.

Posts: 5,157
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
Ohh I. Always thought that ll04 was the newer recommended oil for bmw. I had no ia it was for diesel. Thank you guys for the insight sorry OP
It is but in response to emissions demands. LL04 won't poison new emissions systems. Non
Socom is online now  
0
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:29 PM.




e90post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST