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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > N52 Owners: Elec Water Pump Check-In



View Poll Results: How many miles have you logged, and have you replaced your water pump yet?
Not yet, I have 60-75,000 miles 95 33.57%
Not yet, I have 75-90,000 miles 59 20.85%
Not yet, I have 90-105,000 miles 30 10.60%
Not yet, I have 105-120,000 miles 20 7.07%
Not yet, I'm invincible and have 120,000+ miles 10 3.53%
Yes I've had to replace and it was... 69 24.38%
Voters: 283. You may not vote on this poll

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      10-19-2012, 10:19 PM   #45
TheTal0n
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Mine went at 149K. The pump fails due to heat, not frequency of coolant changes. Heat. Heat kills the electronic control unit.
How can one avoid excessive heat the electronics..?
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      10-20-2012, 12:04 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTal0n View Post
How can one avoid excessive heat the electronics..?
Don't drive the car...unfortunately it's a hit and a miss type of situation if you ask me. Mine blew up when I had the AC on driving 25 miles.
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      10-20-2012, 06:12 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTal0n View Post
How can one avoid excessive heat the electronics..?
Redesign the pump and take the electronics off the back of the pumphousing and place them nearby, say on the framerail so the steel chassis can act as a heatsink. That'd be my design.

The electronics run in an environment of 170 degrees Celsius. They are sealed in a chamber on the back of the pump (which faces the airflow of the radiator none the less). When I pulled my pump apart, the conformal coating on the electronics had vaporized and re-solidified on the interior walls of the housing.

The current design is totally asinine for long term reliability.


I see no advantage to use of an electric water pump other than to allow for quicker engine warm up (less emissions) and the resting heat function the early cars had. The pump is a $400 part. It's design allows for failure. If BMW wanted to have a pump that varied in operation then why not just put an electronic activated clutch on a belt-driven pump similar to how A/C compressors are operated.
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      10-31-2012, 08:58 AM   #48
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a. A little over 79k
b. $1200 ($550 pump, $125 thermostat, $30 coolant)
c. Dealer
d. No, not at this point.
e. Does not apply
f. Automatic
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Last edited by Snyperx; 10-31-2012 at 10:24 AM.
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      11-01-2012, 10:04 PM   #49
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Theres 1 big missing data in that poll and thread . LOCATION.

For peoples driving in SoCal we can supose they will to have replace waterpump more ofthen than people living in Maine or in Canada. No? Hot climate = boiling water.

My 2 cent !
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      11-02-2012, 09:00 AM   #50
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a. at how many miles? 76,500
b. how much did the repair cost (and indicate labor vs parts)? $440 shipped from ebay [OEM parts] +$30 coolant
c. was it replaced at indy or dealer? DIY https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=VzpN8sddsbk
d. was there any other damage caused as a result? Not so far...
e. do you track your vehicle (canyon carving, street racing, backroads DOES NOT apply)? No
f. auto or manual? Auto
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      11-02-2012, 09:07 AM   #51
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NOOS3!!! Welcome to the poll man!!!! LOL!!
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      11-02-2012, 11:24 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Redesign the pump and take the electronics off the back of the pumphousing and place them nearby, say on the framerail so the steel chassis can act as a heatsink. That'd be my design.

The electronics run in an environment of 170 degrees Celsius. They are sealed in a chamber on the back of the pump (which faces the airflow of the radiator none the less). When I pulled my pump apart, the conformal coating on the electronics had vaporized and re-solidified on the interior walls of the housing.

The current design is totally asinine for long term reliability.


I see no advantage to use of an electric water pump other than to allow for quicker engine warm up (less emissions) and the resting heat function the early cars had. The pump is a $400 part. It's design allows for failure. If BMW wanted to have a pump that varied in operation then why not just put an electronic activated clutch on a belt-driven pump similar to how A/C compressors are operated.
i wonder if when i take my pump apart, it will show the same results.. .O_o that's something to do today i guess (besides clean my car)...
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      11-04-2012, 07:56 PM   #53
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I would like to change my poll....

My pump went at 139,000 km's
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      11-05-2012, 01:34 AM   #54
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2006 325i 6-speed manual. Just over 105,000 miles and still on original pump. Really thinking about buying a pump, thermostat and all new hardware now and possibly change it before it fails. Tischer has the pump for $415 and I assume it's OEM, but does anyone know for sure if it's brand new or just remanufactured?
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      11-05-2012, 07:16 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casca View Post
2006 325i 6-speed manual. Just over 105,000 miles and still on original pump. Really thinking about buying a pump, thermostat and all new hardware now and possibly change it before it fails. Tischer has the pump for $415 and I assume it's OEM, but does anyone know for sure if it's brand new or just remanufactured?
It's new. I suggest you replace the t stat at the same time you do the water pump. Tischer has that packaged on their specials which includes new aluminum bolts.
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      11-05-2012, 10:14 AM   #56
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You guys have an interesting thread going on here. I too have wondered when these electric water pumps will fail. Some of the 135i guys have seen failures as early as 40K miles. Its interesting how the prices for the BMW water pump and thermostat kits have come down in price over the last year or so.

Tischer or United are good sources for new OE parts. I just saw recently that Turner Motorsports also have electric waterpump and thermostat kits. OEM ?

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http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-27...53-engine.aspx
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      11-05-2012, 10:46 AM   #57
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replaced water pump and thermostat at about 90,000 km, did it myself but still cost almost $900. Parts seem to cost more in Canada. Never tracked and manual transmission.
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      11-05-2012, 02:40 PM   #58
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Yes, Tischer and TurnerMotorSports both have the OEM water pump... as far as i know, there is no aftermarket water pump as of yet (it took nearly 6 years for an aftermarket [full aluminum] model came out for the E46 bmws - these supposedly last for 120,000mi+ i forget the brand though. :/

Here are the links to the ebay listings for the parts i used (and are working flawlessly so far)
Ebay: Water Pump $356.00 w/ free shipping
Ebay: Thermostat $68.39 w/ free shipping

Other parts/tools you may need for the swap:
Ebay: TORX bit "E" $12.69 w/ free shipping

For those of you who have coolant overflow and spew everywhere, it has most likely gotten all over your cabin filter:
Ebay: New E90 Cabin filter $18.57 w/ free shipping

Additional expenses:
Coolant w/ SILICATE
Drip bucket
Distilled Water

If you follow my DIY, you can easily navigate your way through the repair yourself and save you hundreds in labor costs. It's a pain in the ass and a messy process, but it's pretty straight foward. You'll have a few laughs watching my video anyway ^__^
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      11-06-2012, 03:23 AM   #59
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My 2007 328i ran hot over the weekend and the dealership diagnosed a broken water pump. Just before that, I'd noticed that the fan would come on (loud and at max speed) a few minutes after cranking already. But no alarm yet. Then I noticed that the heater was no longer working. But no overheating alarm yet, probably because I drove short distances only during those days. Then, last weekend, after about 20 miles on the highway, the orange warning light came on. Shortly thereafter, the red light, and I stopped alongside the road. I let the engine cool off (checked hidden board computer with water temperature). The temperature was over 120C (!). After it had dropped to about 80, I drove to the nearest dealership, thankfully only a few miles. I had to stop once more in between to cool down the engine. DON'T try this at home - if you don't know what you're doing!

a. 80,000 miles (128,000 km)
b. $900 (EUR 700) including parts (EUR325), labor, and tax
c. BMW dealer in The Hague
d. other damage - I hope not!
e. car use - normal driving, no track
f. manual

My thermostat went out at 46,000 miles already but that was repaired under guarantee. My electric fan was replaced at 42,000 miles (it had an unbalance and would touch the radiator at times).

As far as location: bought the car in Houston, TX. Brought it to Lausanne, Switzerland as part of an international move. Now based in The Netherlands. My third set of plates on the same car
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      11-06-2012, 02:39 PM   #60
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I believe the yellow overheat comes on at 120C the red comes on at 125C. The car actually detects a problem with the water pump but doesn't warn you. It will cut power, run the fan at its highest speed, enrichen the mixture, etc. The only time it warns you is when the temp gets too high.
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      11-06-2012, 03:42 PM   #61
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I'm gonna find the service receipt when I get the chance to run out to my car, so sorry for the incomplete post, but my water pump failed just past 64,000 miles.
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      12-02-2012, 01:12 AM   #62
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Water pump failed today. 81,000 miles. A week after I saw that the AUX fan would go on at high speed. Never did that before.
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      12-02-2012, 04:33 PM   #63
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2006 330. Scanned and got the 2E81 error code.
a. 77,000
b. $250 deductible - easy care warranty
c. dealer
d. Nein
e. Nein
f. manual

Last edited by leebermeister; 12-02-2012 at 04:34 PM. Reason: .
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      12-03-2012, 02:56 PM   #64
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I posted a similar poll here- http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=773476

I have heard that the oil housing gasket deteriorates, causing waterpump problems. Had coolants changed at 80k, then again when I did the oil filter housing gasket at 105k. There were small pieces of gasket in the coolant.
Currently on factory WP at 108k
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      12-03-2012, 05:28 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecadman99 View Post
I posted a similar poll here- http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=773476

I have heard that the oil housing gasket deteriorates, causing waterpump problems. Had coolants changed at 80k, then again when I did the oil filter housing gasket at 105k. There were small pieces of gasket in the coolant.
Currently on factory WP at 108k
On the same note, I will replace the heat exchanger gasket as well as the oil housing one when I do my pump/t-stat.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-325...skets/ES24026/

Looks like the same type material, so probably the same problems......just not in an area where you notice.

Coming up with a list of different things to do at the same time that requires coolant replacement. So far:

Auxiliary fan switch
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-325...ensor/ES34327/

Coolant/Oil temperature sensor
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-325...ensor/ES34326/

Oil housing gasket
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-325...ensor/ES24030/

Heat exchanger gasket
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-325...ensor/ES24026/

Radiator flush
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/radi...ro-moly-lm1804

Visual inspection of all hoses, clamps and general area and re-service the coolant with OEM coolant......water pump and t-stat replacement to...

Last edited by Casca; 12-03-2012 at 05:37 PM.
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      12-03-2012, 05:42 PM   #66
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Thanks for the info Casca.

Question: Did you have to flush your radiator after you use the cleaner or you dont?
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