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      11-24-2012, 06:33 PM   #23
Ilma
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the throttle body was kind of a pain to get off, then the wiring junction box. So the DIY the guy posted that includes taking that off by using that bent flathead is a big pain in the butt. all you need is a crowbar or a big stick or something, wedge it in there and it'll pop right out of the clips. Other than that, and now that I've done it, it's really easy to get to. Now I'm having a new problem. No more codes, however, at ~4k WOT I'm getting a bunch of knock and I'm trying to figure out if it's fuel or air. I have some logs that are logging the standard logs from the accessport, and then I have logs logging the HPFP and LPFP and knock, it's noticeably knocking and it'll even sometimes pop a CEL but I can't figure out what it is, I'm thinking theres a leak somewhere in the intake manifold where it connects to the engine, I'm going to take it off and put it back on. I've added DCIs to it as well in the mean time. So it's FMIC + DCIs on Cobb aggressive stage 1+ running shell 93.

If the Fuel HPFP REQ PSI is higher than the Fuel HPFP PSI does that mean it's asking for X amount and only Y amount is being provided, therefore meaning it's not getting enough fuel? Or does anyone know where I can get a better explanation of each of the particular data pieces it's logging?

also, how accurate is the lambda bank1 afr?

It's because you used a crowbar on your car........it's punishing you.
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      11-24-2012, 06:51 PM   #24
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haha it wasn't really a crowbar, it was a 40" screwdriver

no, you can't hear it pinging, it just stutters from 4k-5k and it's not every time at WOT, then once it pops a CEL it just says "cylinder 4 misfire, cylinder 5 misfire, cylinder 6 misfire" and it'll run like crap until i clear the codes.
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      11-24-2012, 07:22 PM   #25
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I had the knocking detonation when I had the code, fuel related, my pressure was pegged based on logs
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      11-24-2012, 08:58 PM   #26
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Great thread!!! Took about 15-20 mins....to make it easier I just disconected conector from junction box removed sensor with the connector on it...then removed connector put it on new one...then re-installed and plugged connector back into junction box. Never touched the manifold.

Great time to clean throttle body also!



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      11-24-2012, 10:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilvosko View Post
I had the knocking detonation when I had the code, fuel related, my pressure was pegged based on logs

what did the logs say how could you tell the pressure was pegged? and was it hpfp? this is what i'm trying to figure out. thanks
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      11-24-2012, 11:11 PM   #28
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fault code logs...JB4

you can see a straight line for my "oil pressure" which is the low pressure, doesn't move at all, flatline, at any RPM. should be fluctuating.


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what did the logs say how could you tell the pressure was pegged? and was it hpfp? this is what i'm trying to figure out. thanks
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      11-24-2012, 11:12 PM   #29
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hope all this helps, I am hearing more and more users with this issue.
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      11-25-2012, 08:48 PM   #30
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it will. thanks for posting those graphs.

i just went and drove a little bit, and it's really strange, when i'm driving and the oil temp isn't where it typically is after driving for a while, like if it's just begun to come off of the left peg, and i get on it a little it gives me the stutter, but when it's warmed up it doesn't. I'm still getting some knock though. I am now wondering if it is bad gas, I'll throw some octane booster in there and see how that goes. I'm not getting codes or anything, just some stutter when cold and then it goes away. If octane booster doesn't help I'm going to try the sport map and see how it is.

thanks again neil
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      11-28-2012, 11:56 PM   #31
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The oil temp is the lp fuel should be like in 6 to 7 range. The fuel pressure is hpfp should be 15 or so.


Btw, I change my lots but Raul code is still there. Will run some more logs
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      11-29-2012, 11:57 AM   #32
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i think the values in the cobb are different than the JB, mine for HPFP is 2200+ and LPFP is 72 or something.
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      11-29-2012, 05:51 PM   #33
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i think the values in the cobb are different than the JB, mine for HPFP is 2200+ and LPFP is 72 or something.
I'm just guessing here, but I would bet that JB scales the real fuel pressure values differently so that they can show up more easily on the datalog alongside all the other lines.

Cobb is probably telling you the actual pressure readings.
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      12-05-2012, 08:10 AM   #34
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I followed this DIY last night and the junction box does not require that "custom" flat head. If you reach your hand underneath and behind it, it pulls right out. The 29F3 and 2AAF codes are gone and I did a couple of 3rd gear pulls just to be sure nothing else popped up.
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      12-05-2012, 11:25 AM   #35
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What is the part # for the lpfs? ( 2009 e92 335i) Im having the same problems as everyone else so Im just going to bite the bullet and get the sensor replaced. Hopefully, it isn't that expensive. I would go to the dealership, but paying in euros cost a little bit more.
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      12-05-2012, 11:30 AM   #36
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What is the part # for the lpfs? ( 2009 e92 335i) Im having the same problems as everyone else so Im just going to bite the bullet and get the sensor replaced. Hopefully, it isn't that expensive. I would go to the dealership, but paying in euros cost a little bit more.
Part number 13537614317

I got mine for $64.21 shipped from a BMW dealer in Wisconsin off of ebay.
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      12-05-2012, 12:18 PM   #37
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Part number 13537614317

I got mine for $64.21 shipped from a BMW dealer in Wisconsin off of ebay.
Awesome I appreciate it
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      12-05-2012, 04:52 PM   #38
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man i paid 80 bucks for it LOL

autozone has them for order, I don't know if you guys have autozone over there though LOL

my car is misfiring bad now when it's cold. it's making me crazy. if it's over 60f degrees outside it runs great, under 60 degrees can't get over 4500rpm WOT or it'll misfire on 3+ cylinders and damn near shut the car off.
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      12-05-2012, 05:10 PM   #39
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man i paid 80 bucks for it LOL

autozone has them for order, I don't know if you guys have autozone over there though LOL

my car is misfiring bad now when it's cold. it's making me crazy. if it's over 60f degrees outside it runs great, under 60 degrees can't get over 4500rpm WOT or it'll misfire on 3+ cylinders and damn near shut the car off.
Are you still getting the same code or is it unrelated?
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      12-05-2012, 06:03 PM   #40
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no, the p29f3 code is gone after changing the lpfs
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      12-08-2012, 08:27 PM   #41
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Replaced my LPFS the other day, still got another misfire when I tried a pull in 3rd gear though. Appeared to have ALOT of carbon build up on my intake valves when I removed the manifold, could this be the cause or am I looking at a spark plug/coil issue?
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      12-09-2012, 01:08 AM   #42
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wow that's literally what is happening to me..... and I've read it numerous times. People are saying carbon build up if it's not plugs/coils or injectors.

what cylinder are you having an issue on?
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      12-09-2012, 01:18 AM   #43
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Previous misfire was on cycliner 1, have to pull the codes on the most recent one.
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      12-09-2012, 12:19 PM   #44
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So pulled the codes this morning, the LPFS code is still there for some reason even though I replaced the damn sensor already. Any ideas?

The misfire was on cylinder 1 again, so thinking bad plug/coil.
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