[pavo335]

Originally Posted by mrtanz

I have success. Just coded MOEs 335i
I am now running windows 7 32bit as dual booted instead of through VMWARE and had no issues.
Shane if you are Sydney anytime soon let me know and i will code the taillights

Hey Mrtanz can I get you to code my e92 for the usual suspects?

[MO3]

Originally Posted by mrtanz

I have success. Just coded MOEs 335i
I am now running windows 7 32bit as dual booted instead of through VMWARE and had no issues.
Shane if you are Sydney anytime soon let me know and i will code the taillights

Thanks a lot!

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by mrtanz

I have success. Just coded MOEs 335i
I am now running windows 7 32bit as dual booted instead of through VMWARE and had no issues.
Shane if you are Sydney anytime soon let me know and i will code the taillights

Thats great tanz, do you thinks that's why you had issues with coding my car?

I did notice that when i went to start the car the low battery signal popped up on the dash (I had read that low battery can cause issues when coding?)

I will make the trip down specifically to get the coding done (my replacement battery still hasn't been registered!) but funnily enough since the car was at advan the indicators now flash as per normal (albeit i still get a heap of error codes up on idrive)

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

OK with a bit more of an opportunity to drive the car over the past few days all I can say is wow! The car feels like it has an extra 40kw or so (just like when I plugged in the procede) and it literally has more power everywhere.

Whilst it was certainly an expensive mod (DP's FMIC &CP) I'm definitely glad I spent it!

The exhaust note is definitely louder, even the missus picked up on that and she has no idea about cars and has a much deeper note when giving it some.

A bit disconcerting was the flapping tractor like noise I could hear on cold starts. I asked Pete is that an exhaust leak and he said it was just the wastegates, once the car warms up it will disappear which it does.

I'm unsure if its normal, but the idle seems slightly rougher on cold starts also. This maybe something that can be tweaked with the procede...?

The tractor type noise on startup seems to have dissapeared and the rough idle has now also subdued and is back to normal. I imagine due to the catless DP's and larger intake & fmic the ecu had to adjust to suit?

The car now has the power that I wanted (I felt with just the procede it was still a tad to oh hum) and the best part is it has power in any gear pretty much. The trouble is now is putting that power to the ground.... I'm running 265 goodyear F1's and under moderate to hard acceleration the dtc keeps kicking in and sapping power. Take for instance yesterday cruising up to a roundabout then powering out in 3rd gear doing 60km/h the rear end had to deal with a few corrugations in the road and it really unsettled the car and dtc kicked in...

So will the wavetrac lsd and m3 subframe bushes pretty much eliminate my issues or should I go further and upgrade further suspension components when the rear subframe is dropped to to install the lsd diff centre?

[mrtanz]

Yeah i would say thats why i had problems coding the other day
yeah i was able to code out the hyperflashing but not the error codes at Advan

Pavo, give me a call and come down to Rhodes and i will do it for ya

[_ink]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

So will the wavetrac lsd and m3 subframe bushes pretty much eliminate my issues or should I go further and upgrade further suspension components when the rear subframe is dropped to to install the lsd diff centre?

Hey Shane, an LSD and subframe will not drastically improve you going over corrugations on the road i don't think. I would go suspension mods first (coilovers) as i have zero issues putting power to the ground and i'm running 275 rears.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by _ink

Hey Shane, an LSD and subframe will not drastically improve you going over corrugations on the road i don't think. I would go suspension mods first (coilovers) as i have zero issues putting power to the ground and i'm running 275 rears.

Well its not just the going over the corrugations in the road that is the issue, basically when the power is on the rear end is being unsettled and is squirming around. The addition of the bumps unsettles the rear for traction even more hence the DTC cutting in too soon imo.

I have read the M3 rear subframe helps a lot with the bump steer issues, was hoping the guys who have an lsd and m3 bushes could chime in. Justin showed me his car with a heap of megan chassis bracing when up on the hoist at advan that I thought might help in this scenario?

Interesting that you have zero traction issues though Ian!?! Surely you have the DTC kicking in when driving hard coming out of corners etc? Perhaps the 6mt and the dct have different power deliveries thus the dct is somewhat smoother?

[_ink]

yeah, i seem to stick on the ground when going round corners! May be a combination of my 20" rims and coilovers that give me that extra grip, but i do get the DTC light up also if there are abrupt corrugations in the road (that's normal).

From what i've read and researched, the coilovers are a better BYFB mod for street purposes.

[pavo335]

The Traction issues you describe will not be solved by suspension changes. I'd still get it done to tighten up the rear and eliminate the "squirm" as it's an uncomfortable feeling when ya arse changes lane for ya!!!

The traction issue is simply too much torque and not enough grip, I found the only thing to do was wind back the boost to 8 and 10 psi in first and second. I still get the dct light but it is right on the edge

[R3N]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

The tractor type noise on startup seems to have dissapeared and the rough idle has now also subdued and is back to normal. I imagine due to the catless DP's and larger intake & fmic the ecu had to adjust to suit?

The car now has the power that I wanted (I felt with just the procede it was still a tad to oh hum) and the best part is it has power in any gear pretty much. The trouble is now is putting that power to the ground.... I'm running 265 goodyear F1's and under moderate to hard acceleration the dtc keeps kicking in and sapping power. Take for instance yesterday cruising up to a roundabout then powering out in 3rd gear doing 60km/h the rear end had to deal with a few corrugations in the road and it really unsettled the car and dtc kicked in...

So will the wavetrac lsd and m3 subframe bushes pretty much eliminate my issues or should I go further and upgrade further suspension components when the rear subframe is dropped to to install the lsd diff centre?

The rear end is probably too stiff. What profile tyres are you running? How much pressure in the rear tyres? What suspension? If on coilovers you can adjust the dampening to be softer.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by R3N

The rear end is probably too stiff. What profile tyres are you running? How much pressure in the rear tyres? What suspension? If on coilovers you can adjust the dampening to be softer.

Hmm Im on oem sport suspension, 265/30 19", 42 psi and unfortunately cannot adjust bump/rebound for obvious reasons!

I'm thinking of either bilstein B14 PSS, KW V1 (both non adjustable only for height) or maybe stretch for the V2 or BC BR's... I really dont want the BC's after trying a mates MY11 STI, the dampers seemed mismatched to the springs

[R3N]

Drop the rears to about 36-38psi and you will notice the difference

[pavo335]

Originally Posted by R3N

Drop the rears to about 36-38psi and you will notice the difference

I like 40+ cold on the street otherwise you tend to wear the outside edges of the tyres

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by pavo335

I like 40+ cold on the street otherwise you tend to wear the outside edges of the tyres

I have always ran 40+ to minimise the inner tread block from wear also. Also by the time you go to recheck (usually once a month) they have dropped 1-2psi so runing 42psi gives me some safety margin.

[DR-JEKL]

Snapped a pic of the engine bay this sarvo, the BOV certainly stands out like dogs balls so hopefully the rozzers don't ever ask me to pop the hood in a defect station!

[R3N]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

I have always ran 40+ to minimise the inner tread block from wear also. Also by the time you go to recheck (usually once a month) they have dropped 1-2psi so runing 42psi gives me some safety margin.

Yes but its all about trade offs. Can't have it all. Drop it to 36-38 psi and see if you have the same issue coming out of a corner. Just a suggestion anyway.

[_ink]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Snapped a pic of the engine bay this sarvo, the BOV certainly stands out like dogs balls so hopefully the rozzers don't ever ask me to pop the hood in a defect station!

Curious as to how it sounds... I went with Forge DV's for stock look.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by R3N

Yes but its all about trade offs. Can't have it all. Drop it to 36-38 psi and see if you have the same issue coming out of a corner. Just a suggestion anyway.

I shall give it a go, but I think its more then just tyre pressures, you can feel the rear suspension squirming around and then dtc kicks in

I have been researching this, and some guys upgrade the diff mount bushings m3 subframe bushes and megan toe link arms (or m3 items) and state that the rear end is a lot more planted after these mods and for the power im putting out should be more then sufficient once I have the lsd in and some fresh dampers/coilovers.

Some good reading here for anyone else with similiar issues:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379775

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=658930&page=5

Looks like I will be organising a coilover group buy and toe link and bushes GB also soon

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by _ink

Curious as to how it sounds... I went with Forge DV's for stock look.

Its really good imo, as around town under normal driving you don't get a pshht on every gear change its only when you're up it >5k rpm and change up a gear it lets off a pssht thats pretty tame really (reminds me of a stock R34 GTR with a hard pipe kit really)

Next time I see you mate you can take it for a drive.

P.S Do your bc's have adjustable front camber plates?

[_ink]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Its really good imo, as around town under normal driving you don't get a pshht on every gear change its only when you're up it >5k rpm and change up a gear it lets off a pssht thats pretty tame really (reminds me of a stock R34 GTR with a hard pipe kit really)

Next time I see you mate you can take it for a drive.

P.S Do your bc's have adjustable front camber plates?

Awesome mate, doesn't sound bad at all!

Yes the BC coilovers have front camber plates mate.

[jp330Cic.au]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Snapped a pic of the engine bay this sarvo, the BOV certainly stands out like dogs balls so hopefully the rozzers don't ever ask me to pop the hood in a defect station!

Man, how clean is that engine bay?

[kaitan]

Speaking of coding...how can I get rid of that warning sign everytime on start up? It's annoying...

Also what are the cool function that one can code to the car?