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      12-19-2012, 12:09 PM   #221
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Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
Thanks for your input. So you are saying to replace all 12 bolts of sideshafts to diff?
I have them I was thinking to reuse them because they are not ZNS which BMW recommends to replace.
What about bolt supports (boomerangs)?

I have ordered for now drive shaft bolts (because I also didn't had them) and ordered nuts w/o bolts on gearbox side.

Also there is no bentley manual for M3 E92 I can't find it.

Few more questions how better to press out sideshafts? Because there is BMW special tool for that or to use simple hammer?

Is there some gasket under driveshaft bolts and bolt supports? Like it shows realoem.c*m
I found it very easy to damage the 12 sideshaft bolts due to the limited position of the rubber around the CV joint. If they come off fine, then I suppose they don't need changing but I prefer to be safe than sorry.

I presumed the torque specs were the same as the e92 non m3, most of the times the bolts are just longer on the m3.

I had to take my sideshaft and hubs to a shop where one person used a centre punch held in place with mole grips and the other a massive sledgehammer. My car had done 80k miles by then and they were stuck in pretty bad. I actually damaged my original sideshafts as I tried hitting them with just a hammer and the threaded portion deformed pretty bad.

My driveshaft flange was stuck in the diff when I bought it so I just used what was originally there. Which part number are you talking about in the pic?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...02&hg=26&fg=10
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      12-20-2012, 03:15 AM   #222
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I found it very easy to damage the 12 sideshaft bolts due to the limited position of the rubber around the CV joint. If they come off fine, then I suppose they don't need changing but I prefer to be safe than sorry.

I presumed the torque specs were the same as the e92 non m3, most of the times the bolts are just longer on the m3.

I had to take my sideshaft and hubs to a shop where one person used a centre punch held in place with mole grips and the other a massive sledgehammer. My car had done 80k miles by then and they were stuck in pretty bad. I actually damaged my original sideshafts as I tried hitting them with just a hammer and the threaded portion deformed pretty bad.

My driveshaft flange was stuck in the diff when I bought it so I just used what was originally there. Which part number are you talking about in the pic?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...02&hg=26&fg=10
Thank you for your help.

part number 15 some kind of gasket though I dont know even how it is possible to put it on. Because there is no gasket on mine m3 drive shaft.

BTW 135/335 side shaft bolts is M10 and M3 is M12 I know that torque on 335 is 70nm so maybe 80nm for M3 would be enough.
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      12-20-2012, 04:22 AM   #223
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Thank you for your help.

part number 15 some kind of gasket though I dont know even how it is possible to put it on. Because there is no gasket on mine m3 drive shaft.

BTW 135/335 side shaft bolts is M10 and M3 is M12 I know that torque on 335 is 70nm so maybe 80nm for M3 would be enough.
I wouldn't be too worried about the gasket, I'm 90% sure I don't have it on my driveshaft.

I would put a dab of thread locking compound on the side shaft bolts as a bit of security.

My solid diff bushes should be delivered today so I will be rebuilding the car in the next few weeks and will be able to get pictures and measurements for those who require them.
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      12-20-2012, 08:36 AM   #224
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Originally Posted by idnan View Post
I wouldn't be too worried about the gasket, I'm 90% sure I don't have it on my driveshaft.

I would put a dab of thread locking compound on the side shaft bolts as a bit of security.

My solid diff bushes should be delivered today so I will be rebuilding the car in the next few weeks and will be able to get pictures and measurements for those who require them.
Definitely I will put some thread glue.

Do you feel that 335 diff bushes to soft how can you describe it? Also what about rear sway bar?

Would be nice to see some pics but measurements I believe will be different for 135 base.
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      12-20-2012, 11:28 AM   #225
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Definitely I will put some thread glue.

Do you feel that 335 diff bushes to soft how can you describe it? Also what about rear sway bar?

Would be nice to see some pics but measurements I believe will be different for 135 base.
I had issues with the rear end 'wandering' and not feeling stable under hard acceleration in a straight line. So I decided to rebuild the rear end and ended up going for a full m3 rear rather than a hybrid of 335 and m3 parts. I'm not sure if it will correct the problem completely but I hope for significant improvement. I've changed the subframe bushes for 70d AKG polybushes and might go for a different suspension setup. I'm running a custom bilstein and eibach setup with e92 m3 rear sway and e93 m3 front sway bar (thicker).
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      12-20-2012, 11:44 AM   #226
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I had issues with the rear end 'wandering' and not feeling stable under hard acceleration in a straight line. So I decided to rebuild the rear end and ended up going for a full m3 rear rather than a hybrid of 335 and m3 parts. I'm not sure if it will correct the problem completely but I hope for significant improvement. I've changed the subframe bushes for 70d AKG polybushes and might go for a different suspension setup. I'm running a custom bilstein and eibach setup with e92 m3 rear sway and e93 m3 front sway bar (thicker).
Does this rear end feeling came with installation of M3 diff?

BTW is AKG bushes something similar to powerflex? Did it improved your ride?
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      12-20-2012, 02:03 PM   #227
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Does this rear end feeling came with installation of M3 diff?

BTW is AKG bushes something similar to powerflex? Did it improved your ride?
No the problem was quite bad before the m3 parts were installed but I was hoping the lsd and upgraded toe arms would eliminate the issue.

The AKGs are quite a bit stiffer than the powerflex bushes. I haven't driven on them yet but I think it is going to feel quite different.

BTW I've got RB Turbos and meth so my car has huge amounts of torque
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      12-22-2012, 04:55 AM   #228
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No the problem was quite bad before the m3 parts were installed but I was hoping the lsd and upgraded toe arms would eliminate the issue.

The AKGs are quite a bit stiffer than the powerflex bushes. I haven't driven on them yet but I think it is going to feel quite different.

BTW I've got RB Turbos and meth so my car has huge amounts of torque
I got it RB meth different level mine is just COBB STG1
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      01-02-2013, 03:13 PM   #229
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No the problem was quite bad before the m3 parts were installed but I was hoping the lsd and upgraded toe arms would eliminate the issue.

The AKGs are quite a bit stiffer than the powerflex bushes. I haven't driven on them yet but I think it is going to feel quite different.

BTW I've got RB Turbos and meth so my car has huge amounts of torque
Any updates?
Maybe you know the correct length of drive shaft? Or by how much it have to be shortened M3 DCT shaft?
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      01-03-2013, 11:36 AM   #230
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Any updates?
Maybe you know the correct length of drive shaft? Or by how much it have to be shortened M3 DCT shaft?
sorry been very busy trying to get the car running, but it has quite a few more jobs than first anticipated.

I haven't measured the shaft but I'm not keen on sharing the measurements just in case other people use them and find that it doesn't work on their car. Best way is to fit the diff and accurately measure the length yourself. It took me 2 attempts to get it perfect as I didn't want to shorten the shaft too much.

In fact, I think I might have a manual driveshaft on mine.
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      01-03-2013, 01:52 PM   #231
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sorry been very busy trying to get the car running, but it has quite a few more jobs than first anticipated.

I haven't measured the shaft but I'm not keen on sharing the measurements just in case other people use them and find that it doesn't work on their car. Best way is to fit the diff and accurately measure the length yourself. It took me 2 attempts to get it perfect as I didn't want to shorten the shaft too much.

In fact, I think I might have a manual driveshaft on mine.
Ok I know what you mean can you advice how it is better to measure I was thinking to put sideshafts and diff bolt everything to place where it should be and then just measure using simple role tape. Or you can advice something different?
Manual shaft is 1433mm length the DCT is a bit longer.

P.S.
Maybe you know some cheap place to get M3 bushings?
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      01-03-2013, 02:48 PM   #232
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Ok I know what you mean can you advice how it is better to measure I was thinking to put sideshafts and diff bolt everything to place where it should be and then just measure using simple role tape. Or you can advice something different?
If I had the diff in place, id maybe use picture wire (or something that wont stretch when its pulled tight).

Id get a jubilee clip and clamp the wire to the end of the diff - id mark on the wire with a pen were the edge is.

Id then pull the wire out all the way to the gearbox rubber flange/coupler, as tight as I could. Id then mark on the wire the point were it reaches the outer edge of rubber flange/coupler. Id be looking to use the same outer edge that the wire is attached to on the diff ( ie bottom to bottom)

Thats kind of how I see doing it in my head - hope it helps a little. Ill try and pchop a diagram if it helps??
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      01-03-2013, 03:15 PM   #233
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Here's a wee pic...



I've noticed that the driveshaft fits inside the diff slightly, so youd need to measure how many mm it slots inside and take that off the total driveshaft length.
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      01-03-2013, 03:20 PM   #234
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If I had the diff in place, id maybe use picture wire (or something that wont stretch when its pulled tight).

Id get a jubilee clip and clamp the wire to the end of the diff - id mark on the wire with a pen were the edge is.

Id then pull the wire out all the way to the gearbox rubber flange/coupler, as tight as I could. Id then mark on the wire the point were it reaches the outer edge of rubber flange/coupler. Id be looking to use the same outer edge that the wire is attached to on the diff ( ie bottom to bottom)

Thats kind of how I see doing it in my head - hope it helps a little. Ill try and pchop a diagram if it helps??
Thank you so much you are really helpful. Diagram would be nice.
And i was asking of your measurements just to have to compare with somebodys measurements
Thanks again
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      01-03-2013, 03:49 PM   #235
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I don't have a measurement of my own at the minute, but once I get my driveshaft made I'll take measurements so we can maybe get a few together for comparison.
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      01-04-2013, 04:19 PM   #236
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335i diff vs M3 diff M3 rear axle frame

Juts would like to share all of you, that i am working on my 335i full rebuild
(engine, new twins, etc, etc, ...full M3 suspension swap).
Concerning the M3 suspension and diff, i have fitted all components from M3, including rear-axle frame as well. The mounting point of the 335i diff is the same as e9x M3 diff, therefore they are interchangebla, so you can fit the 335i dif to the M3 frame, which i did until I rebuild my diff's internal and swap an e46 M3 LSD into it (with 2.56 FD from 335i diff).

If i change my 335i open diff to an LSD, maybe DSC/DTC software should be changed to e92 coupe M3 version as well, who knows or has any experience
regarding that?

Also I am working on a hibrid half-shaft, which will be much-much stronger
than the factory one and can be joined to 335i diff house.
(I am located at Europe,therefore the cost of a DSS half-shaft will be much more, than pur half-shaft, which will almost have the same HP/NM rating).

Laszlo
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      01-05-2013, 06:12 AM   #237
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Originally Posted by CSL335i View Post
Juts would like to share all of you, that i am working on my 335i full rebuild
(engine, new twins, etc, etc, ...full M3 suspension swap).
Concerning the M3 suspension and diff, i have fitted all components from M3, including rear-axle frame as well. The mounting point of the 335i diff is the same as e9x M3 diff, therefore they are interchangebla, so you can fit the 335i dif to the M3 frame, which i did until I rebuild my diff's internal and swap an e46 M3 LSD into it (with 2.56 FD from 335i diff).

If i change my 335i open diff to an LSD, maybe DSC/DTC software should be changed to e92 coupe M3 version as well, who knows or has any experience
regarding that?

Also I am working on a hibrid half-shaft, which will be much-much stronger
than the factory one and can be joined to 335i diff house.
(I am located at Europe,therefore the cost of a DSS half-shaft will be much more, than pur half-shaft, which will almost have the same HP/NM rating).

Laszlo
I don't understand what are you doing with your DIFF and which one you will have E46M E92M or 335... But you don't need to do anything with software. I think it is not possible even... You will not have M button and things like that.
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      01-05-2013, 12:04 PM   #238
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I don't understand what are you doing with your DIFF and which one you will have E46M E92M or 335... But you don't need to do anything with software. I think it is not possible even... You will not have M button and things like that.
335i diff house and e46 m3 diff internal with 335i FD
and hibrid half-shafts.
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      01-05-2013, 12:19 PM   #239
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335i diff house and e46 m3 diff internal with 335i FD
and hibrid half-shafts.
Are you sure it will fit plug n play? Are you sure your final drive is not welded with diff. Anybody did that already? Why you want 2.56 FD on 335i you will be going to 80 km/h in 1st gear...
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      01-05-2013, 06:46 PM   #240
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Are you sure it will fit plug n play? Are you sure your final drive is not welded with diff. Anybody did that already? Why you want 2.56 FD on 335i you will be going to 80 km/h in 1st gear...
Fitting is no problem. I choose e46 M3 diff, because a friend of mine sold me for a few bucks. We will rebuilt/refurbished the e46 M3 diff internal.
2.56 FD is the factory Final Drive for my 335i DCT. I do not want at this time to haveother than factory FD. And yes, my diff is welded, so need som mechaning, which is no prob at all, my friends did it a few times.
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      01-17-2013, 05:29 PM   #241
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Originally Posted by GeorgeSmooth View Post
Detailed pics on page 7.


Since my original Quaife fitted diff got damaged due to poor workmanship I decided to have my tuning shop do what I was told was impossible. I decided to give it a shot and fit a E90 M3 diff. Since everyone said that is was not possible and after viewing a couple of photos on the forums of twisted side shafts I decided that it would be worth the try.



The final drive on this diff is very short 3.84 so the car really kicks when it is on the go. Off the line I can say the car has not really benefited but I am yet to VBox test to confirm this. On the roll it is really impressive with immediate thrust in any gear in comparison to the rest of the gears. The biggest benefits are in fifth and sixth where the car closes the clock easily.

My intention is to now test various final drives as they are readily available for the M diff.

In terms of traction and handling I can say that the M diff is far smoother than the Quaife. Power delivery can only be described as much sharper. I have done close to 2000km now with this diff and can say that I personally prefer it to the Quaife.
Hi friend I bow to your achievement well done

NOW i have found an M3 complete rear subframe with everything on it even the discs and calipers

Can I just remove my subframe and bolt this straight on then modify build the drive shaft?



Really like this idea
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      01-17-2013, 06:17 PM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeSmooth View Post
The conversion so far has been bullet proof. In the interim I have swopped out the complete 3.85 diff to a 3.15 from the DCT. Again I failed to take pictures. I also managed to change the oil to the new spec LSD oil and the diff is much more qite.
The secret in matching the drive shaft is getting the correct components for your configuration. I would rather shorten then lengthen. In my case the rear is of the from a E92 M3 Manual the front section is from a 335 auto which had to be shortened ever so slightly. Remember my car is a auto so the gearbox might be longer in comparision to a manual.
Hi, I have an auto and also have found an M3 DCT complete subframe.

My question is, does this final drive (3,15) work better for you. I also have a heavily modded car pushing over 400WHP so this will help determine the final drive
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