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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > User Manual says not to wait for the car to warm up, and to start driving right away



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      01-09-2013, 09:39 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BmerMeUp View Post
Very clever. Just added that to my list of things to do!
Quick note: I use the throttle position option on the hijack so the gauges read normally, fuel level & oil temp, then at 50% throttle they go to water temp & boost level.

Very nice feature.
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      01-09-2013, 09:47 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by Game View Post
Damn I go at 900. Then again in Florida it probably doesn't take a while to get there.
Yeah like 30 seconds hahah
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      01-09-2013, 09:48 AM   #47
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I always pop the red line before driving off, 5 seconds after starting, especially if the temperature is below 45. Haha.
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      01-09-2013, 09:52 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChasVS View Post
Who you going to believe, the "someone" who said to wait, or the Manufacturer who spent millions engineering the car? Just saying....
Exactly. Car warms up faster under load too. Same thread about 3 times/winter.
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      01-09-2013, 09:53 AM   #49
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Turn on the car, shift to sport mode and stomp on the gas.




But really, turn on the car, turn on the steering wheel heater. Ill drive off once the wheel is warm enough. During summer days Ill drive as soon as the Nav is done loading. Thats like a minute wait on both cases.
I do keep rpms low for like 5 mins (which is how long it takes me to get to the highway)
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      01-09-2013, 09:57 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wheelsrbetter View Post
start button press and clutch drop are simultaneous
Best post of the thread. I can imagine in the garage, the start button being pressed and the tires already spinning off the floor.
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      01-09-2013, 12:29 PM   #51
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Yahoo news recently published an article that most modern cars do not need to be warmed up as it doesn't make a difference with DI and synthetic oil. We don't live in the days of carburetors and 3000 mile oil changes any more.
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      01-09-2013, 01:11 PM   #52
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I don't know if some one mentioned this but the best environmetal method is to use car engine pre-heater (electricity) and drive straight away after starting. The car is allready warm and the emissions are low. It can be combined with a cabin heater so that you enter a warm car. Just 1hour of prewarming is enough! I used it a lot when i lived in Northern Sweden but do not see the need for that in southern Sweden since there are not mnay days when the temp drops to minus 10C in a year.
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      01-09-2013, 03:50 PM   #53
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User manual tells me to buckle my seatbelt while in the car. I question its validity.
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      01-09-2013, 04:02 PM   #54
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Both of the BMW's are in the Garage so not much of a problem here in Texas. The 325i is always a start, idle-down, and go, the M5 I like to start it and hear it worm-up for a bit. If you have ever heard a E60 M5 start-up you will understand the reasoning.
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      01-09-2013, 04:13 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3s4u2 View Post
Both of the BMW's are in the Garage so not much of a problem here in Texas. The 325i is always a start, idle-down, and go, the M5 I like to start it and hear it worm-up for a bit. If you have ever heard a E60 M5 start-up you will understand the reasoning.
Is it anything like the S65 4 litre v8 in the M3. That thing just sounds nasty till its warm. Almost as if the gaskets are all lose until heat expansion seals it up.
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      01-09-2013, 05:10 PM   #56
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Wait for the RPM's to drop to 6-700. Usually takes me longer to buckle in, set the radio.
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      01-09-2013, 05:13 PM   #57
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I warm up the car for a minute or two before moving then I'd take it easy til at least 5 mins into it or so...
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      01-09-2013, 07:16 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark_Knight_335 View Post
Seems dangerous to drive off immediately on a 20 degree day.
So you're saying our cars are "advanced enough" to just be primed to go at a moment's notice? Wouldn't that be the equivalent of just drop kicking someone out of a sound sleep?
Doesn't the engine need oil to run with best results?
the motor has oil pressure the second its cranked over
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      01-09-2013, 07:22 PM   #59
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Ah ok. Wow..much has changed since 1995!
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      01-09-2013, 07:34 PM   #60
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I wait about a minute, till the idle is stablized and the seat heaters have just begun to warm up.

At that point, the seats will heat up much faster with some revs to let the alternator generate more current, it will be easier on the battery moving to a charge rather than discharge state, and the engine will warm up much faster as well.

Everything warms up much slower if it's sitting at idle and your battery is likely showing a net drain. So long as your visibility is OK I'd just drive.
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      01-10-2013, 03:50 AM   #61
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From the owner's manual:

"Do not allow the engine to warm up by leaving it running while the vehicle remains stationary. Instead, begin to drive at a moderate engine speed."

Driving the car right away allows everything to warm up and reach optimal conditions quicker. As others have said, it's good to take it easy until everything is warmed up.
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      01-10-2013, 04:09 AM   #62
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I wait til the RPM drop down to 600 (the usual idle for my car) Takes about 2-3 minutes and take it easy til I get out of the neighborhood for the car to warm up a bit more. I usually take it around the block before entering the main street and still taking it easy after about 5 minutes since the car's started. I can tell when it isn't warmed up when it shifts gears at like 3500 rpm. Just doesn't feel right to just turn it on and go..so I just compromise between the what the Manual says and what's tradition..2 mintues sounds right to me.
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      01-10-2013, 07:35 AM   #63
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I do the same as some of the comments here. I waited about 1 min for the rpm to drop and drive slowly for the first 5 mins. Steering feels harder during the first few min anyway.
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      01-10-2013, 11:06 AM   #64
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Few questions for anyone who wants to answer

- how warm should the oil be before driving hard? I've heard everything from 160 to 210...

- before reaching that temp, I know not to exceed 3-4k rpm, but can I use boost to get to that rpm or should I stay really conservative with the pedal

- finally, does the procede have a feature that alerts you when oil temp is up to operating level?

Thanks!
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      01-10-2013, 11:55 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DUI Elite View Post
This.

All the hero's defending the manual can go ahead and do just that. Theyre ignoring common sense. Viscosity changes at lower temps so letting it warm for a min isnt harming anything.

Idling for 15 min could though because it makes you run LEAN.

At any rate, avoid heavy acceleration or 3000+rpm until at operating temps.

You dont need the oil temp gauge to see if youre at operating temp. The digital oil level check in the onboard computer or idrive only gives you a reading when at operating temps. Otherwise it gives you a spinning "loading" icon.
Do you understand the meaning of multi-viscosity oil? And synthetic oil as used in our cars is even better at this. Of course it does no harm to wait but all you are doing is wasting fuel.
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      01-12-2013, 10:01 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetblackcoupe
Few questions for anyone who wants to answer

- how warm should the oil be before driving hard? I've heard everything from 160 to 210...

- before reaching that temp, I know not to exceed 3-4k rpm, but can I use boost to get to that rpm or should I stay really conservative with the pedal

- finally, does the procede have a feature that alerts you when oil temp is up to operating level?

Thanks!
Anyone? I don't wanna make a new thread just for this
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