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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - E92 CDV (Clutch Delay Valve) Removal



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      07-13-2011, 06:58 PM   #287
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what exactly does this do?
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      07-13-2011, 07:38 PM   #288
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Hey HyperM3 i got your message, but cant PM, hasnt been 24-48 until they approve me lol crap
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      07-20-2011, 12:10 AM   #289
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Is there anyone in Socal around the long beach area that can do this? I don't have the tools If there is PM me a 12 pack of brew for the one who does it for mee
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      02-04-2012, 11:11 PM   #290
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Just did the CDV delete and the actual removal was easy! Getting the car jacked up and safely on stands was the biggest pain in the a$$. Make sure you properly clamp off the hydraulic hose leading into the CDV so you don't lose too much fluid. Mine slipped and dumped a few ounces all over me and the floor making the bleeding of the line a long process.

10 minutes to safely jack & support car.
2 minutes to clamp line, remove clips, remove CDV, re-install the line and re-install the clips.
30 minutes to bleed the air out of the line.
5 minutes to bring the car off the jacks & stands.

Result: much improved clutch response during normal driving, especially starting in 1st gear and shifting to second.

Was it worth it? YES.
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      02-06-2012, 10:08 AM   #291
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Did this mod yesterday in about an hour and the shifting has extremely improved. Wish I would have done this 6 months ago when I bought the car.
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      09-03-2012, 11:51 PM   #292
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sooo... thread necro here.

You don't actually need to buy any parts to delete the CDV on an E9x car? Assuming of course that you have standard hand tools and the appropriate pressure bleeder and cap adapter. Because I am looking to buy a BMW in the near future (maybe a 335i) and the one thing that I have consistently not liked about BMWs is the clutch feel - other than that I've found them to be wonderful little cars.
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      09-04-2012, 02:02 AM   #293
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Its not necessary to buy another CDV to modify. There is a little piece of metal inside the CDV which has an aperture to limit the flow of clutch fluid. I used the blunt end of a 3mm drill bit to tap it out. It doesn't take much force at all and it comes out very easily. You could get it out with finger pressure only, but its easier to tap it on something.
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      11-04-2012, 11:10 PM   #294
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Need HELP!!!

I tried to do the CDV replacement today. I had a lot of difficulty getting everything reconnected, and a lot of fluid leaked out in the process. I had topped off the brake fluid reservior before starting. Due to the messy CDV replacement, I assumed there was air in the line. I started to bleed the line from the bleeder valve (2 person method). During the first few rounds of open/clutch/close/release, some fluid came out, but the pedal never went limp or had to be pulled back up as expected. After a few more rounds, the clutch pedal would still spring back up, but there was very little resistance when being pressed. We repeated this cycle at least 20 times. No change.

Obviously something is wrong, or more likely, something I did is wrong. Can anybody help me figure it out? What can I do to fix it?

THANKS!
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      11-05-2012, 11:24 AM   #295
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For the record, I still offer the service of doing the CDV mod for anyone in the area. I also supply the modded CDV in my service of $35 for i and $45 for xi. Ive done almost 100 of these by now with no issues.
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      11-19-2012, 01:02 PM   #296
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Nice and easy mod - no more funky clutch on my E92 328i!
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      11-25-2012, 04:32 PM   #297
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I did this mod yesterday with a buddy of mine and cannot believe why I waited almost 20k miles before doing it. It is like driving a different car and I finally have full control of my clutch and gear shifting. It is silly that BMW even puts these in.

I highly recommend doing this mod and don't waste your money on buying a modified valve. Just modify yours by following this: http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWCDVModification.htm
Took me 2 minutes to pop out the restrictor plate and the plastic ring. Super easy.

Enjoy!
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      01-09-2013, 07:48 PM   #298
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Just did this mod today and can't believe I didn't do it for 3 years. I did it only because my car went out of warranty.

Anyhow, it was not as EASY as everyone says to do because of the bleeding part. The bleeding hex nut was a bitch to get to. In addition, it is very difficult to jam the brake tubing to the nozzle of the bleeder valve. I spent over 90 minutes to complete this job, which I thought would only take 20 minutes.

I also can't believe why people would sell the damn modified CDV. All you had to do was take the stock CDV, and punch out the restricter like everyone says. It was so easy.

The bleeding process was not difficult and it definitely had to be done.
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      04-09-2013, 10:28 AM   #299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nukezero View Post
Just did this mod today and can't believe I didn't do it for 3 years. I did it only because my car went out of warranty.

Anyhow, it was not as EASY as everyone says to do because of the bleeding part. The bleeding hex nut was a bitch to get to. In addition, it is very difficult to jam the brake tubing to the nozzle of the bleeder valve. I spent over 90 minutes to complete this job, which I thought would only take 20 minutes.

I also can't believe why people would sell the damn modified CDV. All you had to do was take the stock CDV, and punch out the restricter like everyone says. It was so easy.

The bleeding process was not difficult and it definitely had to be done.
I just completed this mod this past weekend, and it also took me longer than 20 minutes. However, it's definitely worth the effort. Being able to predictably shift from 1st into 2nd is wonderful. Previously, the clutch movement for 1st to 2nd would vary depending on the weather and how warmed up the car was... now I think it's much more consistent and I don't need to slow down on the clutch peal right before full engagement - I can just use a smooth & consistent motion and nail it.
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      04-09-2013, 10:34 AM   #300
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Im still available for people if they need this done. I can do it in 10 minutes. I also include the modified CDV in my pricing. PM me if needed.
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      07-05-2013, 11:16 PM   #301
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Is bleeding the clutch the same process as bleeding the brakes? I'm assuming it's using the same reservoir. I'm planning to service my brakes (cleaning it up and lubing the shims. Brakes are squealing but I have tons of brake pad left.

I'm thinking of tackling the two jobs at the same time since I'm going to bleed the brakes I might as well do the CDV delete. Just want to confirm the bleeding process is the same for the brakes and clutch.

Last edited by Zero_09; 07-12-2013 at 05:50 PM.
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      07-08-2013, 12:55 AM   #302
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Quote:
Is bleeding the clutch the same process as bleeding the brakes? I'm assuming it's using the same reservoir
Yes, same. But be careful, the clutch fluid "section" inside is baffled from the rest of the brake fluid reservoir. Clutch section is towards the back. So if you read this thread, you will know it is not difficult to by mistake completely drain and take in air to clutch line while bleeding, even though you may have a lot of fluid in the whole break reservoir. Make sure the brake reservoir is MORE than full at start. Then don't bleed long periods on the clutch. Bleed a little, then stop and check the reservoir clutch section.
If you run the clutch line dry by mistake, your clutch pedal won't work at all, but don't panic! Refill the reservoir as high as possible and bleed again, but go slowly. Bleed a little, wait a little, etc. Using a pressure bleeder and not knowing about the baffle in the reservoir, I had completely dried out the clutch line by mistake. But I was able to fill with fluid by bleeding again. After this clutch was grabbing very low initially, but gradually got better, after half an hour of driving I was back to normal.
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      07-12-2013, 05:52 PM   #303
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I'll be using the Motive Bleeder Kit for this process. Which would be a better route? Should I bleed my brakes first then do the CDV or the other way around?
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      07-12-2013, 08:35 PM   #304
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Just did this today. So glad to get that thing out. On my e46, the CDV is screwed in on both ends. This was way easier.
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      07-21-2013, 10:22 AM   #305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero_09 View Post
I'll be using the Motive Bleeder Kit for this process. Which would be a better route? Should I bleed my brakes first then do the CDV or the other way around?
I did breaks first then bleed clutch. Clutch has a smaller reservoir section, so if rest of fluid is already clean it is better is what I am thinking.

Using Motive bleeder doesn't give any guarantee that you can't run the clutch line dry while bleeding. I was using Motive bleeder.
Also if your motive bleeder has been in use before, check its hoses for any signs of cracks. They start to crack on the inside then cracks reach to the outside. When this happens you spray break fluid all over the engine compartment. Another thing I noticed the ferrule where the hose is attached to the container on the Motive was cutting into the hose when hose is bent. This caused my first tear of its hose. I put a stress relief made from copper electrical wire to prevent this from rehappening. Later in a few years the hoses started cracking here and there. Replaced the hoses. Motive recommends replacing them in a few years also.
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      08-03-2013, 08:29 PM   #306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhaseP View Post
I did breaks first then bleed clutch. Clutch has a smaller reservoir section, so if rest of fluid is already clean it is better is what I am thinking.

Using Motive bleeder doesn't give any guarantee that you can't run the clutch line dry while bleeding. I was using Motive bleeder.
Also if your motive bleeder has been in use before, check its hoses for any signs of cracks. They start to crack on the inside then cracks reach to the outside. When this happens you spray break fluid all over the engine compartment. Another thing I noticed the ferrule where the hose is attached to the container on the Motive was cutting into the hose when hose is bent. This caused my first tear of its hose. I put a stress relief made from copper electrical wire to prevent this from rehappening. Later in a few years the hoses started cracking here and there. Replaced the hoses. Motive recommends replacing them in a few years also.
Just bleed my brakes with ATE Blue and did the CDV delete and bleed that after. I didn't have a problem with the clutch reservoir running dry when using my Motive bleeder kit. Also changed my power steering fluid using the turkey baster method so it was pretty productive day. Didn't get a chance to do my differential fluid because I realized I didn't have a 14mm hex socket.
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      08-27-2013, 11:08 AM   #307
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If someone could help answer this:

I have an '09 E92 335i. Is there enough slack in the line to delete the valve assembly altogether? For $26, it's not a big deal to buy a modified valve, even if all it takes is blunt tool to knock out the restrictor gate. But, if there is enough slack, I'd rather just hook up the line directly.

Really appreciate it. Thanks!
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      08-28-2013, 10:30 PM   #308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wepio View Post
If someone could help answer this:

I have an '09 E92 335i. Is there enough slack in the line to delete the valve assembly altogether? For $26, it's not a big deal to buy a modified valve, even if all it takes is blunt tool to knock out the restrictor gate. But, if there is enough slack, I'd rather just hook up the line directly.

Really appreciate it. Thanks!
Yes there is. I hooked the hoses directly together.
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