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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Pictures: Electric water pump + thermostat replace



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      12-27-2012, 02:51 PM   #133
rwes
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Just broke a 100K (2008 335i) and mine went; apparently the plastic impeller "melted". Good thing for AAA towing.

Got parts from Tischer as well and having the labor handled by a local Foreign Car shop. Wanted to tackle myself, but without a warm garage and with the flush of the system that they'll perform, figured I'd let the pro's handle it.
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      12-28-2012, 11:36 PM   #134
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Water pump same old story

110K miles and mine went. 2006 E90 with the N52 engine. I ordered a pump and thermostat on Ebay. Euro Auto Works, and I got it in two days. 341 for the pump 68 for the thermostat. I spent five hours total doing it. I am not a mechanic but have always worked on my cars.

One tip is that the top bolt on the pump can be easily reached with a 4" extension on a flex head ratchet. It is strictly by feel with your left hand on the bolt head, guiding the socket, with the ratchet handle down through the frame.

The symptoms were all the same as everyone else, overheating a couple times. I did the purge cycle and recorder the pump using my iphone laying on the pump, and it was clear that the pump was trying to run repeatedly, but was stopping after 2-3 seconds. probably due to drawing too much current. When I compared the old pump to the new pump, the old one did not spin freely campared to the new one.
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      01-01-2013, 05:45 PM   #135
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My 2006 330i has 130K miles on it. I replaced both thermostat and pump at 110K after suffering the same as many of you here.

I would think that BMW would place the two items for replacement at the 100K serviced interval. They could earn more money from it and save their customers from the hassle of being dead on the road.
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      01-02-2013, 10:58 AM   #136
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Another Water Pump Story

Well, I just wanted to share my story of water pump failure at 98,500mi. Of course I was on the interstate when I got the red overheating light. Symptoms I noticed were the heat went cold and the lower radiator hose was cold. No coolant leaks. Got it towed to a local shop so they could scan it (my scanner is generic and won't read BMW specific codes) and of course it had the water pump and thermostat failure along with the intake camshaft sensor failure-2A9A-this explains my long cranks at start up. The shop wanted $1,200 P+L. Called the stealership just to get another estimate and that was $2,000 P+L. Well, I have done all the maintanence on all my car and feel pretty mechanically inclined, so I decided to tackle it myself. Ordered my parts from oembimmerparts.com (Piersberg water pump, thermostat, coolant, and camshaft sensor totalling $580). I studied the Bentley Manual and forums and went for it once the parts came in. Well, low and behold, once I got the splashguard down, the electrical connector was disconnected for the water pump. Connected it, ran the car, and still overheated so the thermostat still failed shut. Went ahead and replaced the pump since I already had the part. A couple things I noted, although, the thermostat can be removed without removal of the pump, it is much simplier to remove the pump first because of the metal water line going from the pump to the engine block. It doesn't budge and I had to push up hard on the pump and the mounting grommets gave it enough slack to get the t-stat by also a few scrapped knuckles. The hard to reach water pump bolt was pretty easy to get off if you are positioned at the front of the engine and go in at an angle just in front of the wheel well. I used a 10" extension and swivel joint and of course the E12 socket for the bolts. I also removed the coolant resevoir after draining the coolant which helped with accessing the hose clamps on top of the thermostat. It took me about 3 hours total, that's not including my lunch break Overall, it wasn't as bad as an experience that I thought it would be. Note, that I did have a garage and I used jackstands on all four corners. So there's my experience.

Last edited by Aperture Vision; 01-02-2013 at 11:04 AM.
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      01-03-2013, 06:55 PM   #137
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Question - is it normal in a fully functioning e90 to have the heater on high and the tempreture change (drop) every so often? Is this a potential indication of a bad pump?
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      01-04-2013, 12:16 PM   #138
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Question - is it normal in a fully functioning e90 to have the heater on high and the tempreture change (drop) every so often? Is this a potential indication of a bad pump?
Drop as in the temperature gets colder? Or the with the fan on high, it sounds like the fan goes out for a moment and then comes back on? If its a temperature drop, it is most likely the t-stat acting up.
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      01-04-2013, 03:44 PM   #139
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Hmm, that's a good question - the fan definitely goes out for a moment, but I'm usually at 84F (the max) and so the decrease in CFM might make it feel colder?

I'm taking a 3,000 mile road trip from Chicago to CA via Texas in less than a month. With a 100K on the clock, and the potential that I'll be in the middle of nowhere at some points during my trip, does it make sense to replace the pump/t-stat now? Or don't fix something that ain't broke?

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Originally Posted by Aperture Vision View Post
Drop as in the temperature gets colder? Or the with the fan on high, it sounds like the fan goes out for a moment and then comes back on? If its a temperature drop, it is most likely the t-stat acting up.
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      01-05-2013, 08:41 AM   #140
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Hmm, that's a good question - the fan definitely goes out for a moment, but I'm usually at 84F (the max) and so the decrease in CFM might make it feel colder?

I'm taking a 3,000 mile road trip from Chicago to CA via Texas in less than a month. With a 100K on the clock, and the potential that I'll be in the middle of nowhere at some points during my trip, does it make sense to replace the pump/t-stat now? Or don't fix something that ain't broke?
You should read up on the water pump failure issue in the maintenance section. Basically, you can have the car scanned with a BMW scan tool (not a generic OBD II scan tool) and look for the waterpump failure codes. If there are any WP codes present (they do not activate the service engine soon light) have the pump replaced and while at it, have the T-stat replaced too since it can fail at some point and throw the SES light, without causing any drivability problems. At 100K there is good probability that the pump is on the way out.
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      01-05-2013, 05:07 PM   #141
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2007 335i 81k miles

Well it just happened to me. A few days ago I had the yellow warning followed by the red engine has overheated. I checked and there was no coolant in the tank. Refilled tank IAW bmw service on the phone. Drove it a few more days and it happened again yesterday, only this time the battery also died while waiting on tow truck. First truck showed up and since I was unable to get the car out of gear due to the dead battery, he tried to jump me from the connections under the hood (also as per BMW technician). Well that cause the whole system to lockup and throw a steering lock malfunction. At this point the tow truck driver left. I called BMW roadside assistance again and they had another truck sent with rollers for the wheels. Finaly got the car to the dealership about an hour after they closed. They should get back with me sometime monday and let me know what they find. I still have till the 28th of next month on the CPO so hopefuly they will cover it all.
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      01-08-2013, 05:56 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhc905
Hmm, that's a good question - the fan definitely goes out for a moment, but I'm usually at 84F (the max) and so the decrease in CFM might make it feel colder?

I'm taking a 3,000 mile road trip from Chicago to CA via Texas in less than a month. With a 100K on the clock, and the potential that I'll be in the middle of nowhere at some points during my trip, does it make sense to replace the pump/t-stat now? Or don't fix something that ain't broke?

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Originally Posted by Aperture Vision View Post
Drop as in the temperature gets colder? Or the with the fan on high, it sounds like the fan goes out for a moment and then comes back on? If its a temperature drop, it is most likely the t-stat acting up.
Like the other poster said , you have to get scanned by a BMW scan tool. Right now it's just a guessing game. if you want to drop $500 on parts just as PM, then that's a choice you have to make. It's really not that bad of a job
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      01-10-2013, 04:55 PM   #143
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2007 335i 81k miles

Well the stealership finally got back with me and my baby should be ready tomorrow. I'm glad the CPO is still in effect. The cost for the water pump, thermostat and labor would have been 1600+ dollars. They said that the pump killed the battery so thats another 300 dollars. So I feel kinda?? Lucky?? that I' m gettin out of it for 390 dollars total. I hope nothing else is on the way out....
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      01-10-2013, 06:38 PM   #144
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is everything covered under CPO?
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      01-10-2013, 11:58 PM   #145
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On Tuesday, Car had the yellow engine hot light followed by red. Pulled over let it cool down. Drove to work, no issues after stopping, ran some errands no issues. On the way home it did the same thing, pulled over let it cool down. Got it in the garage no leaking coolant, reservoir is full.

I replaced the battery a week ago and never registered it, the engine fan has been running high intermittently for the last two days.

If it's the water pump why would it be fine all day. Is it the thermostat having issues, or is it some voltage issue because the battery hasn't been registered, and the water pump is electric?

I drove it tonight, weird issues?.?.?.

If the engine is warm and I start the car and immediately turn on the heater, car acts normal. If I start the car and the heater is off, the auxiliary fan runs full blast as I drive or idle and it limits the power (but it doesn't tell me it's limiting the power), if the auxiliary fan is on and I turn on the heater, I get no heat.

The car never warned me it was ever getting hot. It blows extremely hot when the heater is on.

Thermostat?

I am baffled by this.

Where is the best price for a water pump and thermostat?
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      01-11-2013, 06:40 AM   #146
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On Tuesday, Car had the yellow engine hot light followed by red. Pulled over let it cool down. Drove to work, no issues after stopping, ran some errands no issues. On the way home it did the same thing, pulled over let it cool down. Got it in the garage no leaking coolant, reservoir is full.

I replaced the battery a week ago and never registered it, the engine fan has been running high intermittently for the last two days.

If it's the water pump why would it be fine all day. Is it the thermostat having issues, or is it some voltage issue because the battery hasn't been registered, and the water pump is electric?

I drove it tonight, weird issues?.?.?.

If the engine is warm and I start the car and immediately turn on the heater, car acts normal. If I start the car and the heater is off, the auxiliary fan runs full blast as I drive or idle and it limits the power (but it doesn't tell me it's limiting the power), if the auxiliary fan is on and I turn on the heater, I get no heat.

The car never warned me it was ever getting hot. It blows extremely hot when the heater is on.

Thermostat?

I am baffled by this.

Where is the best price for a water pump and thermostat?
The water pump can act up intermittently and shut down (causing th eoverheat condition then cool off and act normal. I doubt not registering the battery has anything to do with the overheating issue. All the battery registration does is reprogram the charging system to control the charging rate for a new battery.

Get the car scanned and look for the codes that indicate the pump has been failing.
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      01-13-2013, 12:18 AM   #147
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Is there a list of the correct scanners to read codes on a 11/06 335i. Cobb access port says after 03/07.
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      01-13-2013, 03:11 PM   #148
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Anyone has part numbers for the bolts that needs to be replaced? as well as type of coolant?

Also how many bolts, i read 3? are the bolts the same for the thermostat and water pump if not, what is the quantity of each needed?

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      01-13-2013, 06:39 PM   #149
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Anyone has part numbers for the bolts that needs to be replaced? as well as type of coolant?

Also how many bolts, i read 3? are the bolts the same for the thermostat and water pump if not, what is the quantity of each needed?
You will need three replacement bolts for the WP, you can re-use the bolts that secure the thermostat to the WP.

The part # is 11-51-0-392-553 (comes in set of three)
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      01-13-2013, 06:49 PM   #150
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I replaced my WP and Thermostat this weekend using this as a guide. Great write up!

My symptoms were the same as most: Air blown by heater started going colder first. On the ride home, got a yellow temp warning (drive conservatively) followed by the red warning (Stop vehicle and allow to cool, contact service).
2006 325i with 132K. Attempted to activate the coolant flush sequence before buying a new pump and thermo, but it never activated, so I bought parts (Tischer is the cheapest). I bought them locally so I could get on the road. Still saved 15% over retail, but still paid over $100 more than if I would have bought on line.
In the process of re-installing everything but ran into a problem when I broke a connector. The Pump works and the flush sequence started, so I'm confident that my original problem is now resolved. But...

I broke the locking tab off of the female electrical connector that connects to the WP. What should I do? I've tried finding the connector everywhere on-line, looked at numerous schematics at Tischer and SouthAltlantBMWParts, but cannot find a part number.

Should I tape it? Glue it? Any suggestions?
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      01-14-2013, 07:36 PM   #151
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I replaced my WP and Thermostat this weekend using this as a guide. Great write up!

My symptoms were the same as most: Air blown by heater started going colder first. On the ride home, got a yellow temp warning (drive conservatively) followed by the red warning (Stop vehicle and allow to cool, contact service).
2006 325i with 132K. Attempted to activate the coolant flush sequence before buying a new pump and thermo, but it never activated, so I bought parts (Tischer is the cheapest). I bought them locally so I could get on the road. Still saved 15% over retail, but still paid over $100 more than if I would have bought on line.
In the process of re-installing everything but ran into a problem when I broke a connector. The Pump works and the flush sequence started, so I'm confident that my original problem is now resolved. But...

I broke the locking tab off of the female electrical connector that connects to the WP. What should I do? I've tried finding the connector everywhere on-line, looked at numerous schematics at Tischer and SouthAltlantBMWParts, but cannot find a part number.

Should I tape it? Glue it? Any suggestions?
Is THIS it or is that the male side?
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      01-14-2013, 07:52 PM   #152
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Is THIS it or is that the male side?
that's the 1! thanks for the link =)
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      01-19-2013, 01:11 PM   #153
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I just had both replaced yesterday, my first engine related breakdown @ 11400 miles

I went in for an oil change last week and they said i had a coolant leak and they could have in next week. here it is next week and they change it and i'm good to go. i leave and 3 hours later over heat light pops up and limits me to 60MPH (i was going 80) then red. i pulled over and it looked like coolant exploded everwhere. hours after tow to my indyshop who did the pump they said, relieved that it wasn't caused by them directly, for some reason my pump just stopped working. job was $1000 with labor, they gave me $100 off.

i was kinda mad i had to pay at all but i read here it fails commonly and the shop is good people and they have saved me alot of money in the past and even at full price would be cheaper than most paid in this thread. I just really wish it had warned me sooner with overtemp. had this been in the summer i could have blown head gasket.

just glad to have my car back. they loaner they gave me was 99 545i. nice but felt like i was driving history.
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      01-21-2013, 08:32 PM   #154
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other observations for 328xi

Just finished this job on 2007 328xi with 127K miles. I was getting nervous and did not want to get stranded and I most likely got most of the life of the pump and thermostat. Here is my take on the job that took me 12 hrs. It is not hard but the location and space available to get to the WP and T is very small and tight and because of that it is very fiddly work requiring contorting and working by feel. That for me was why it took so long. I did the work using a mid rise lift. It would be a real "B" to do this on ramps or jack stands. I got the parts ( WP, T, bolts, coolant) from Tisher for around $520. One additional tool that really helped was a 10mm ratched box end wrench. The space is so tight that sometimes I was only getting 1/2 thread per wrench turn. The ratched made this more tolorable. For better access I removed the fan, the support plate under the car (on xi models), the passanger front tire and the reservoir tank (two bolts, an electrical clip and a hose). Here are a few things that will make the job easier and faster. When removing the T there are 4 hoses, 2 big ones, 2 little ones. One big one and one little one have standard type hose clamps, the other two have the BMW type clip fittings. The BMW hoses are easy to get off and the big hose clamp can be loosened and with a long screwdriver and the hose can be pried off using access from the wheel well. The last hose, the small one with a hose clamp is really hard to get to but the hose is long enough that you can leave it attached when you remove the T and then loosen the clamp and remove the hose. Same thing when you put the T back in, attach the hose/clamp first on that small hose. You can wiggle the T enough to get big hose to slide in the hose (this is the elbow hose that comes off of the backside of the WP) and tighten the clamp down. The other BMW hoses just snap on. Similar thing on the WP. The big hose that comes out of the back side of the WP is just a short elbow that connects to the T. Leave it attached when you remove the WP and install before you put the WP back in in the same orientation. (this advice alone is worth 2 hrs. of saved time). Other handy tools included a telescoping magnet and one of those claws on a flexible wire. Again, this is not that hard of a job. It is just one step after the next with no real surprises. You will wonder what BMW was thinking when they decided to tuck the WP and T in such a tight space. Hope this helps the xi guys.
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