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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - E90 Oil Change (with Pics! - 56K Beware)



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      06-02-2012, 01:26 AM   #331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer325z View Post
Has anyone ever had a problem with the car shutting off because the oil filter that was used was aftermarket?

I have had my car in the shop for the past few weeks because last time that i picked it up from the bmw dealership, it just would stay running. The dealership says that who ever changed my oil and the oil filter had used a aftermarket filter. The aftermarket filter has fallen apart after a while and that all of the filter parts have ended up in my engine causing it to shut the car off. Is that possible? or am i getting a run around by the dealership? Or is it possible that the mechanic screwed up my car?
Lol, any update on this?...because I just got an oil filter that wasnt from the dealer....
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      06-02-2012, 06:57 AM   #332
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Finally did this. Had to prep to make sure there was no forensic evidence afterwards for my wonderful spouse to find. Very easy with one of those $10 round plastic pans with the spout and handles.
Only issue I had was removing the small o-ring. Didn't want to roll off or lift with my fingers and I was concerned about damaging the plastic with a screw driver. Decided to flex it with tweezers and get under it with a small staple. Worked, but thought it was pretty stubborn.
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      07-30-2012, 11:22 AM   #333
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Good post, thanks!

Agree that the low skirt of the sport package 330i makes it difficult to get a standard jack under. Ended up using a low profile jack and having it up on boards to get enough room.
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      07-30-2012, 01:22 PM   #334
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thanks
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      08-13-2012, 09:43 PM   #335
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Smile Money!!

I feel compelled to send you the $$$$ I saved by having this oil change done in my garage as opposed to my local dealer!!
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      08-19-2012, 08:03 PM   #336
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Just wanted to say, thank you for this DIY! This is my first self-owned car, and I just completed my first oil change thanks to your instruction. Thank you so much!

A few tips for future owners:
  • Took me a little while to find; the car must be ON on order to view the oil level from the stalk menu, and it is quite a ways down; this menu does not appear if the car is not on. If the system has not had enough time to heat up the oil and/or measure it, it will just show a little clock.
  • I used the 12,000lb Rhino Ramps because Autozone had them for ~$44, which was only slightly more than the 4,000lb ones. These did NOT have the issue mentioned in the original post (the lip catching on them), but it was very close!
  • Autozone has 5qt Mobil-1 0W-40 for $36 (plus a cheapo Bosch filter w/ only a big rubber seal), which is the recommended oil for the Mobil-1 brand (see the BMW site for specific brands)
  • You'll need 7qt of oil, not 6, to get this to "OK" or better.
  • I used a Wix oil filter and it seems to be working fine (so far); however, neither it or the Bosch filter seem to be as sturdy as the BMW OEM version.
  • Definitely pick up a NON-METALLIC strap wrench for removing the oil filter cover; I used a metal one and it left scratches all over the cover.
  • The dangling cover for the bolt under the car can easily be removed to make it easier to move around under the car; it just slides into slits on the side and is not "permanently" attached.
  • Don't forget to pick up a funnel!

Once again, thanks a lot for the DIY!
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      08-22-2012, 03:08 PM   #337
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Great Write up

Great Write Up. thanks for taking the time to document.
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      08-23-2012, 08:57 AM   #338
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Great write up. This was super easy for someone such as myself who has never done this before in any car.
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      08-25-2012, 02:37 PM   #339
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My only question is since I am not on the 100% warranty just the partial one that doesnt cover oil changes will this void the warranty at all if I do it myself? Or take it to a different shop? I have a 2008 328xi.
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      09-18-2012, 05:30 PM   #340
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I have 06 325i and my drain bolt is parallel with the ground or "_" vs "|"
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      10-11-2012, 02:55 AM   #341
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Great post! Doing my first oil change this weekend, Just picked up an OEM Oil change kit from ecstuning.com that comes with everything for like $60.00 my question is : Is there anyway to change the oil change intervals on the OBD to read like 6500 miles or so instead of the 15k? Ill be doing mine every 6500 so it would be nice to get an alert at that milage and not the ridiculous 15k

Thanks,
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      10-17-2012, 11:46 AM   #342
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Is it necessary to use oem filter?
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      10-21-2012, 01:43 PM   #343
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I did this for the first time on this car last weekend.
I didn't use an OEM filter.
Pretty straight forward like any other car I've owned except I didn't have a 36mm socket for the top of the oil filter.
Added an hour onto the job whilst I went out and bought one.
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      01-09-2013, 10:21 PM   #344
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Quick question.... I actually put the full 7qt -_- I am a little worries because my computer kept saying to add 1qt.... I drove it around for a few miles and now I'm a tad bit above the middle indicator. Do you think I added too much? Thank you for your input!
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      01-10-2013, 11:46 AM   #345
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Engine oil level ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by spacemonkey1112 View Post
Quick question.... I actually put the full 7qt -_- I am a little worries because my computer kept saying to add 1qt.... I drove it around for a few miles and now I'm a tad bit above the middle indicator. Do you think I added too much? Thank you for your input!
No, you did not add too much. I would keep "topping it off" at quarter of quart at time, and then keep checking on the oil gauge till it get to the full mark. The paper filter will absorb at least half quart right away. You are OK.
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      01-12-2013, 11:21 AM   #346
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Stupid question - the pictures aren't showing up in the OP...or is that just me?
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      01-13-2013, 12:42 PM   #347
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Pictures are disabled on the original post - page down a little and you will find them re-posted.

Much discussion here on Rhino ramps. I had purchased all the parts to replace the water pump, thermostat and oil filter housing gasket (not related to an oil change) before I realized that no automotive parts stores in my area had the low-profile ramps. So I made my own with 2x12's. They work like a champ and would support the full weight of my house for a lifetime. Problem is storage obviously, but I keep mine down in the barn. If you have the room, these can't be beat, and NO ISSUES with clearance. If you make your own, just keep at least 18" between "steps".
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      03-26-2013, 07:59 AM   #348
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Is that plastic trap door under the car really necessary? I just realized that mine is missing What is the name/number of that part and where can I get it?
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      04-26-2013, 03:21 PM   #349
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how about mobil one 5w30?
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      05-10-2013, 10:06 AM   #350
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Nice Post - Thanks

Great write up and pics! Helped me a lot. The trap door for the drain bolt was farther back than I thought! This job is so easy and clean, I would change my oil every 5k miles if it weren't so darn expensive.
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      06-01-2013, 07:35 PM   #351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mp128 View Post
how about mobil one 5w30?
It's no BMW extended interval approved.
The proper Mobil 1 is 0W40, but I burned oil with it.
Castol 5W30 seems to be ACEA5 approved too and should work. it's $26.xx at Walmart in a 5Q jug. Mobil 0W40 is about the same, but will drop to $22.xx sometimes in a jug.
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      06-25-2013, 09:49 PM   #352
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DIY LOF for 325xi (e91) Wagon

All,

I just recently changed the engine oil in my 2006 325xiT for the first time. I live 130 miles away from the dealer or independents, and was way over on oil change interval and didn't have good reason to travel to Boise. That, and I've always replaced my engine oil on all 6 BMW's I've owned, so why stop now?

I read the E90 oil change protocol and it was very helpful, but you need to know there can be some differences in what you see and more clarification on best approach. I took a few pics to help explain what I am talking about.

Of course, the hardest part is getting the car off the ground high enough to work. My car does not have sport option and yet it is by far the lowest of any I've ever owned.

First off, this tutorial for engine oil only. I did not attempt the transmission, the transfer case, nor the diffs (2), front and rear. That I'll leave for the guys with a tall lift. Just make sure you drain/fill all of them at least every 30K or less.

Secondly, it would have been nice to go out and buy one of those nifty oil extractors, but unfortunately, these newer cars don't have a dipstick to pull from.

So, to get started, lift the car from the left side, where the drain plug is closer to the edge of the car. I cut a block of hardwood to fit into the rectangular lift point, between the car body and floor jack, so as to not damage the hard plastic surrounding.

Once under the car, look for the triangular "door" that hides your drain plug. On my car, unlike other's, probably because it is awd, the drain plug points straight down, whereas other cars are at the more typical perpendicular angle to the ground. This initially startled me, thinking I had found the wrong drain plug. Not so.

The cover is easily opened by a flat head screwdriver, turning approx. 1/4 turn to open. The drain plug is a 15mm, as I recall. You can use either a box end wrench with enough angle to clear the body, or a socket with a small extension.

I recommend warming the motor slightly before draining oil, it goes faster and you get more out. Also, since you have the car at such an angle for access, try carefully lowering the car down to level, without crushing your oil pan/collector, to get as much old oil out as possible.

Now, get back on your feet and into the engine bay.

The great thing about BMW's oil changes on more modern cars, is the oil filter is up top. My old senior six motors were a big pain in the butt to change, with the canister type filter elements and cramped quarters. These newer oil filter caps requires a belt or chain wrenches or BMW proprietary socket to remove, due to it's large diameter. You might get it off by hand, but you'll have to be lucky or very strong.

Make sure you replace both the small and larger O-rings, supplied in the oil filter box.

Once you have replaced the filter element and the cap in back on tight, go back under and tighten the oil drain plug, making sure you use the new crush washer, also found in the filter box. DON'T OVERTIGHTEN THE DRAIN PLUG, it's aluminum threads and you can strip them very easily. (This is one of the main reasons you don't take these cars to franchise oil change stations, because they are unfamiliar with your car.

Add 6.9 qts of oil once the drain plug is in place, or whatever your owner's manual indicates. Then follow the instructions on how to reset your oil level monitor via the dashboard.

Tip: When adding oil from the typical plastic quart containers, I empty them till they just start dripping, then put the cap back on, turn them upside down somewhere in the engine bay where they can stay inverted on their own, and then go on to open the next one. Once you have emptied all your needed plastic qt. bottles, reopen each, in order of use, hovering the unopened bottle over the oil opening at the top of the engine, and taking the cap off quickly, thereby emptying all the oil from the container until it begins to drip again, which won't take as long as when the bottle is brand new. Less wasted oil and better for the recycling guys.
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