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      01-13-2013, 12:59 PM   #1
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Adjusting end links on a lowered car?

I got adjustable end-links eith my coilovets an know you are supposed to hace them with no tension/ vety little at stick ride height. I know ride height is 18.7" and if I say lower my car 1" do I adjust my end-links at a ride height of 17.7" since I lowered it?

Thanks guys!
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      01-13-2013, 08:27 PM   #2
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Put my car on rhino ramps wich put it very close to lowered ride height and my endlinks where to short 1-2"....sound about right?
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      01-13-2013, 08:49 PM   #3
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Endlinks are tad to short, this sucks lol!!
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      01-13-2013, 11:39 PM   #4
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I'm using stock endlinks for now with my ground controls and UUC swaybars. My car isn't particularly slammed though, maybe 3/4" or 1" lower than stock.
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      01-13-2013, 11:49 PM   #5
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I'm using stock endlinks for now with my ground controls and UUC swaybars. My car isn't particularly slammed though, maybe 3/4" or 1" lower than stock.
My after market endlinks aren't much longer than OEM lol!! I threaded them to the end and got almost "0" preload at ride height (put car on ramps). I was 2 " short before, that couldn't have been good!
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      01-13-2013, 11:57 PM   #6
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sorry my pm was full rob, line up the oem ones to the bc's they might be already preset to be shorter. if youre planning to lower the car at least 1 inch then adjust the links at least 1 inch shorter for proper swaybar angle.
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      01-14-2013, 12:03 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ~XxPornxX~ View Post
sorry my pm was full rob, line up the oem ones to the bc's they might be already preset to be shorter. if youre planning to lower the car at least 1 inch then adjust the links at least 1 inch shorter for proper swaybar angle.
I thought they had to be longer??? I preloaded my suspension to ride height so there is no load on the sway bar and I had to go about 1-2" to reach the bracket on the strut (thought at ride height end link should go in bracket hole easily?) am I doing ths wrong? I know you know your stuff man so I guess I am wrong lol!! I had some popping when they where shorter.
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      01-14-2013, 12:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
My after market endlinks aren't much longer than OEM lol!! I threaded them to the end and got almost "0" preload at ride height (put car on ramps). I was 2 " short before, that couldn't have been good!
I might be a crackhead but shouldn't the aftermarket ones be shorter since when you lower the car the swaybar pivot will be closer to the bracket on the strut?
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      01-14-2013, 12:11 AM   #9
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dont use the ramps, jack up car and leave front on stands....remove the wheels and let the suspension droop this way there will load on the swaybars. shorten the links about 1 inch and they should easily attach to the strut and swaybar. you can place the jack under the rotor and jack it up a bit to line up the holes.

Most coils should supply you with shorter end links.
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      01-14-2013, 12:11 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ~XxPornxX~ View Post
sorry my pm was full rob, line up the oem ones to the bc's they might be already preset to be shorter. if youre planning to lower the car at least 1 inch then adjust the links at least 1 inch shorter for proper swaybar angle.
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I thought they had to be longer??? I preloaded my suspension to ride height so there is no load on the sway bar and I had to go about 1-2" to reach the bracket on the strut (thought at ride height end link should go in bracket hole easily?) am I doing ths wrong? I know you know your stuff man so I guess I am wrong lol!! I had some popping when they where shorter.
Rob dude sorry man after you called the second time I thought you were good. Just like I told you to adjust the shocks smaller as you go lower in the rear to compensate for shock travel I thought I told you and you understood as you go lower in the front the end links also need to be adjusted smaller as well dude. Lol
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      01-14-2013, 12:24 AM   #11
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I might be a crackhead but shouldn't the aftermarket ones be shorter since when you lower the car the swaybar pivot will be closer to the bracket on the strut?
key word I just realized is coilovers, if this was stock shocks it would have been longer....god damitt!! I feel very stupid right now....I did searched most said longer but had stock shocks....live and you learn.
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      01-14-2013, 12:27 AM   #12
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Rob dude sorry man after you called the second time I thought you were good. Just like I told you to adjust the shocks smaller as you go lower in the rear to compensate for shock travel I thought I told you and you understood as you go lower in the front the end links also need to be adjusted smaller as well dude. Lol
I hate coilovers turbo install is much easier!! I do have question though...how is there "0" pre-load on the sway bar at ride height?
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      01-14-2013, 12:31 AM   #13
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Rob dude sorry man after you called the second time I thought you were good. Just like I told you to adjust the shocks smaller as you go lower in the rear to compensate for shock travel I thought I told you and you understood as you go lower in the front the end links also need to be adjusted smaller as well dude. Lol
I adjusted the rear struts so there is a bit of wiggle in the spring when car is on jack stands and tires off.....but I had them so compressed I had to lengthen them.....would have need a goddamn breaker bar to adjust them the way I had it!!
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      01-14-2013, 12:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ~XxPornxX~ View Post
dont use the ramps, jack up car and leave front on stands....remove the wheels and let the suspension droop this way there will load on the swaybars. shorten the links about 1 inch and they should easily attach to the strut and swaybar. you can place the jack under the rotor and jack it up a bit to line up the holes.

Most coils should supply you with shorter end links.
I have mine way to long then....I will start at 1" smaller than OEM. Tie-rods/control arms are much easier to install lol....installing tie-rods to.
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      01-14-2013, 12:46 AM   #15
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I have mine way to long then....I will start at 1" smaller than OEM. Tie-rods/control arms are much easier to install lol....installing tie-rods to.
Yes they are way to long dude shorten them up about 1" to start with as you already are lower then stock then adjust as needed. Just try the way Tee said it dude it will work I already walked you thru this after a week of your OCD getting the best of you. Lol
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      01-14-2013, 12:51 AM   #16
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Yes they are way to long dude shorten them up about to start with as you already are lower then stock then adjust as needed
I am lowered at least 1.25"-1.5" is tat a god starting point, you know how OCD I am lol!!
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      01-14-2013, 12:53 AM   #17
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Yes they are way to long dude shorten them up about 1" to start with as you already are lower then stock then adjust as needed. Just try the way Tee said it dude it will work I already walked you thru this after a week of your OCD getting the best of you. Lol
roflmao!!! I am 1" above OEM lol!! If not more. On a good note....tie-rods went in great!!
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      01-14-2013, 12:56 AM   #18
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roflmao!!! I am 1" above OEM lol!! If not more. On a good note....tie-rods went in great!!
Dude your the best. Your a little crazy but you don't give up and you keep trying yourself until its done right. So did you try to do it that way or what?
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      01-14-2013, 02:09 AM   #19
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Dude your the best. Your a little crazy but you don't give up and you keep trying yourself until its done right. So did you try to do it that way or what?
I have a good helper ^ doing this right now lol!! Goddamn it is cold!!!!!
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      01-14-2013, 03:54 AM   #20
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I think BC has to have longer endlinks...pic #1 is with endlink 1" shorter than OEM Pic #2 is when I jack the hub up it just moves the hole farther away. Is this because both endlinks are removed??
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      01-14-2013, 04:38 AM   #21
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Harold says longer, but I also agree with people here as the sway bar may not clear...I would literally have to jack the sway bar up to get them to work shorter though.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331670
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      01-14-2013, 05:18 AM   #22
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The endlink mounting tabs are different on diff coil systems. iirc they where shorter on my fk's. leave the hub alone and pull the sway/end link up to the hole. if the sway jams on the frame/suspension then extend the link.
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