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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Doing brake fluid, what about clutch?



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      02-04-2013, 08:30 AM   #1
Killerx
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Doing brake fluid, what about clutch?

Iv seen a ton of DIY replacing the brake fluid, but what about the clutch? I couldn't find anything regarding the clutch. Has anyone ever done this before or have a DIY. What other steps do I have to do to get the fluid out of the lines?

On a side note, I am also going to bring out the go pro and record everything I do. I know it's pretty basic but I'm going to try to record everything I do.

One more question... what's the poll for a slow DD? OEM brake fluid or ATE super blue dot 4

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      02-04-2013, 09:08 AM   #2
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Sorry I have another question, I read about people cycling the ABS? What's this about and how do I do it?
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      02-04-2013, 10:01 AM   #3
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You need a computer to do the ABS cycling and you only need to do it if you get air in the system, which you shouldn't when replacing brake fluid. The ABS module vibrates to get any small air bubbles out. The clutch shares fluid from the brake fluid reservior. You can do it at the same time as your brakes. Do the brakes first.
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      02-04-2013, 10:29 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Blackhawk36 View Post
You need a computer to do the ABS cycling and you only need to do it if you get air in the system, which you shouldn't when replacing brake fluid. The ABS module vibrates to get any small air bubbles out. The clutch shares fluid from the brake fluid reservior. You can do it at the same time as your brakes. Do the brakes first.
Great thanks, so how do I replace the clutch fluid then? Or does it all come out when I do the brakes
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      02-04-2013, 10:36 AM   #5
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I use a Motive Products Pressure Bleeder to do both brakes and clutch. Do the brakes first. You will have to remove the plastic panel under the transmission to do the clutch, but the slave cylinder and bleeder are right there. Very easy to get at, and at least on my '11 the bleeder is plastic so no worries about it being stuck. Though of course, that means taking extra care not to overtighten it.

ATE Super Blue is really meant for those who change thier brake fluid often, i.e. racers. You alternate it with the ATE Gold (same stuff sans the blue dye). Without the color contrast, hard to tell when the clean stuff is coming out when you just did it last week. Trouble is, it is NOT a low moisture absorbing fluid, and while its dry boiling point is excellent, its wet boiling point is not. It is also really expensive. Use the OEM fluid or something meant for street cars like Castrol LMA or Valvoline Synthetic.

I have seen some talk that the OEM fluid is a supposedly lower viscosity fluid than most, but the brakes on a 3-series are the same bits as a zillion other European cars, so I doubt it makes any real difference.
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      02-04-2013, 10:50 AM   #6
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I use a Motive Products Pressure Bleeder to do both brakes and clutch. Do the brakes first. You willll have to remove nipple lastic panel under the transmission to do the clutch, but the slave cylinder and bleeder are right there. Very easy to get at, and at least on my '11 the bleeder is plastic so no worries about it being stuck. Though of course, that means taking extra care not to overtighten it.

ATE Super Blue is really meant for those who change thier brake fluid often, i.e. racers. You alternate it with the ATE Gold (same stuff sans the blue dye). Without the color contrast, hard to tell when the clean stuff is coming out when you just did it last week. Trouble is, it is NOT a low moisture absorbing fluid, and while its dry boiling point is excellent, its wet boiling point is not. It is also really expensive. Use the OEM fluid or something meant for street cars like Castrol LMA or Valvoline Synthetic.

I have seen some talk that the OEM fluid is a supposedly lower viscosity fluid than most, but the brakes on a 3-series are the same bits as a zillion other European cars, so I doubt it makes any real difference.
Yess you are awesome! I actually just purchased the motive products pressure bleeder so this will be awesome. Where could I find a pic of the nipple clutch slave cylinder?

Thank you for the explanation of the super blue. I'm deff gonna stick to the OEM stuff. Plus I called 3 different part stores in the GTA and no one even heard of the stuff lol

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      02-04-2013, 11:02 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killerx View Post
Yess you are awesome! I actually just purchased the motive products pressure bleeder so this will be awesome. Where could I find a pic of the nipple clutch slave cylinder?

Thank you for the explanation of the super blue. I'm deff gonna stick to the OEM stuff. Plus I called 3 different part stores in the GTA and no one even heard of the stuff lol

Brad
You are welcome. I can't help you with a picture, but it is pretty obvious once you have the belly pan off. The clutch slave is against the transmission, there is a single line coming out of it that goes a short way to a round can-like thing, then another line. The line comes out below the bleed nipple.

That can is the clutch delay valve. If you care, this would be an ideal time to take that out, punch out the restrictor, and put it back. Actually, there are a couple of DIYs for that which probably show a picture of the slave cylinder too.
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      02-04-2013, 11:17 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by krhodes1 View Post
You are welcome. I can't help you with a picture, but it is pretty obvious once you have the belly pan off. The clutch slave is against the transmission, there is a single line coming out of it that goes a short way to a round can-like thing, then another line. The line comes out below the bleed nipple.

That can is the clutch delay valve. If you care, this would be an ideal time to take that out, punch out the restrictor, and put it back. Actually, there are a couple of DIYs for that which probably show a picture of the slave cylinder too.

Found a pic thanks for everything guys. I have a pit in my garage so this should be fairly pain free.

Here's where the pic is
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256352
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      02-04-2013, 11:18 AM   #9
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Quote:
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I'm deff gonna stick to the OEM stuff. Plus I called 3 different part stores in the GTA and no one even heard of the stuff lol
+1 on the advice to stick with OEM or DOT 4 brake fluids intended for street applications. I use ATE Super Blue only for my cars that see track time, and then only because I need the higher dry boiling point to prevent brake fade and I'm willing to bleed the brakes at least twice/year. For normal street driving it really offers no advantages over OEM.

By the way - I don't know where "GTA" is, and where is "Strathroy/Richmond Hill?" I'm guessing London? Or Ontario? Or maybe GA?
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      02-04-2013, 12:13 PM   #10
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That's what I had thought, the brakes and clutch share the same fluid....seriously those Germans know how to design things....
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      02-04-2013, 12:51 PM   #11
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+1 on the advice to stick with OEM or DOT 4 brake fluids intended for street applications. I use ATE Super Blue only for my cars that see track time, and then only because I need the higher dry boiling point to prevent brake fade and I'm willing to bleed the brakes at least twice/year. For normal street driving it really offers no advantages over OEM.

By the way - I don't know where "GTA" is, and where is "Strathroy/Richmond Hill?" I'm guessing London? Or Ontario? Or maybe GA?
ATE Super Blue is the same as ATE Type 200 (which is DOT approved). The only reason it isn't DOT approved is because it's blue. The only reason it's blue is so that you can alternate it with Type 200 (which is gold) and know when you've bled it all through.

Resist the urge lump Super Blue/Type 200 in with all the "race only" fluids out there. They are excellent fluids, street or track, and are made for long change intervals in street applications.
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      02-04-2013, 02:32 PM   #12
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By the way - I don't know where "GTA" is, and where is "Strathroy/Richmond Hill?" I'm guessing London? Or Ontario? Or maybe GA?
GTA = Greater Toronto Area
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      02-04-2013, 04:45 PM   #13
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GTA = Greater Toronto Area
Ha ha thanks. Sorry, I have been in the Canadian section a bit too long.
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      02-23-2013, 09:14 AM   #14
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During my last brake fluid change, the BMW garage said that there was no need to change the clutch fluid even if they share the same fluid. They never explained why.
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      02-23-2013, 11:27 AM   #15
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During my last brake fluid change, the BMW garage said that there was no need to change the clutch fluid even if they share the same fluid. They never explained why.
Probably because they didn't want to bother. Clutch bleeding is a bit of a pain in the butt, but every time I've done it I feel an improvement in clutch feel, even when done every year.

Brake fluid lubricates and conditions the seals in the system. Bleeding out old fluid also removes contamination which can become abrasive (like worn piston seal material).

Changing fluids well in excess of recommended intervals is key to long term vehicle ownership.
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      04-08-2013, 02:15 AM   #16
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Resist the urge lump Super Blue/Type 200 in with all the "race only" fluids out there. They are excellent fluids, street or track, and are made for long change intervals in street applications.
^^ word this man speaks da tr00f

Not trying to be a dick, but just trying to clear up some misinformation:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChipB View Post
+1 on the advice to stick with OEM or DOT 4 brake fluids intended for street applications. *I use ATE Super Blue only for my cars that see track time, and then only because I need the higher dry boiling point to prevent brake fade and I'm willing to bleed the brakes at least twice/year. *For normal street driving it really offers no advantages over OEM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by krhodes1 View Post
ATE Super Blue is really meant for those who change thier brake fluid often, i.e. racers.
---
Trouble is, it is NOT a low moisture absorbing fluid, and while its dry boiling point is excellent, its wet boiling point is not. It is also really expensive. Use the OEM fluid or something meant for street cars like Castrol LMA or Valvoline Synthetic.

ATE Blue/Gold is of the, if not cheapest, DOT 4 fluids out there.

Also, its wet BP is > OEM, Castrol, or Valvoline.

References:

1) Castrol GT LMA - Dry BP: 265*C, Wet BP: 155*C
Price: $11 per 12 oz bottle (4/7/13 Ebay search - shipped)
Price/oz: $0.92
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...BrakeFluid.pdf

2) Valvoline - Dry BP: 230*C, Wet BP: 155*C
Price: $11.55 per 12 oz bottle (shipped - Amazon - none listed on ebay)
Price/oz: $0.96
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/valvoline_brake_fluid.pdf
http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Fluid-12...ne+brake+fluid

3) OEM BMW Fluid - Dry BP: 230*C, Wet BP: 155*C
Price: $9 per 12 oz bottle (Ebay - shipped)
Price/oz: $0.75
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=424698
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300199

4) ATE Blue/Gold - Dry BP: 280*C, Wet BP: 198*C
Price: $18.45 / 1 Liter (shipped - Ebay)
Price/oz: $0.55 (1 L = 33.814 fluid oz)
http://www.ate-na.com/generator/www/...f_info_us.html
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...cat=BrakeFluid


There's no reason why you can't run it on the street...I've been running it in all my street cars and bikes for years. ATE's suggested change interval is up to every 3 years ("normal driving"), which I believe is 1 year more than BMW's recommendation for their OEM fluid.

Also, I understand that 1 L is more than typically necessary, but if you use it on multiple vehicles like I do, do the brakes and clutch hydro fluid at the same time, you don't really have that much leftover. My friends and I sometimes split a bottle. Granted, if you go to the stealership and buy the BMW fluid you may save on shipping (but then add tax!) etc... but for fairness' sake, I included shipping costs.

Lastly, don't at me for bumping an old thread...I was using the search button and came upon this
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Last edited by Toda Party; 04-08-2013 at 02:27 AM.
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      06-10-2013, 03:14 PM   #17
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what size wrench is needed for the bleeder screw on 2006 E90?
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