[E90raw]

I purchased some of your products. Thanks for mentioning the sale. I love the quick detailer and the microfiber cloth. My wife mentioned the car looks better than when we picked it up from the dealer last month.(that may not be a compliment after reading your post). I have a couple questions. If I use a sealer, do you still wax the car? Is it too soon to apply a sealant if I just purchased the car. If I use a sealant on the tires does that cause problem,s latter on(peeling, etc). I have some recalcitrant tar on the hood that didnt come off with the spray degreaser. Any suggestions.

[TreyR28]

I bought a bunch of stuff from detailed image to do a Spring detail, and the only thing I'm missing is sealant and polish. I have a jet black 2009 e92, and they are some water spots and swirls in the paint. I don't have a random orbital and I would prefer to do all polishing by hand. What polish do you recommend I buy to get most of the water spots and swirls out with? Also what is a good sealant? The wax I bought is Poorboys Natty Blue if that makes a difference for sealant.

[Str8Blck328I]

Hello I recently purchased a 2011 Jet Black 328I and already had it detailed at a shop near my job (they had my car all day over 8hours- and it was the only vehicle they worked on) needless to say it looked 10 times better than when the dealer gave me my keys LOL

Anyways I just want to be able to maintain it like washing it once a week I would like to see what you would suggest as in products for washing and a quick detailer type product and or anything that would be beneficial.

We all know how hard it is to maintain a BLACK car :P

As well as a good product for my Black Matte Rims.

Thx in advance

[E90raw]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Great questions and thank you for the positive feedback.

I am a big fan of claying a new vehicle, I recently responded to the poll posted on claying a new vehicle so I'll copy over my response.



To really maximize your results with detailing, knowing about the proper process and techniques will take you further than the products you are using. Once you understand what each step of the process is trying to achieve and how to do it correctly, you can properly decide on which products will best fit your needs, budget and most importantly, meet your detailing objectives.

In my eyes, there are roughly 12 processes that your exterior can undergo.

Washing & Drying - This is an important step to master because this is the foundation of any detail. This is also the process in which most imperfections are added to your paint, so take the time to research the proper washing and drying techniques.

Waterless Washing - This is a great step to learn if you do not have access to a hose on a regular basis. It works great for people who reside in apartment complexes and mobile detailers.

Using a Clay Bar - This step will help further remove surface contamination that was left behind during the wash stage of the detail. It properly preps the surface for the next steps.

Compounding - This step is used to correct paint with severe defects. Only use this step as a last resort after other, less aggressive methods have been tried and failed. You will almost always leave a haze or marring behind with this step which will need to be corrected by polishing or finishing the paint. You are removing part of the clear coat during this step.

Polishing - This step will take care of most imperfections, like light swirls, water marks, light surface scratches, etc. You are removing a minimal amount of clear coat during this step.

Finishing Polishes - This step will remove any hazing left behind from a more aggressive polish or a rotary buffer. This is when you diminish swirls and other imperfections to a minimum and the gloss and depth really jumps out. You will typically remove a tiny bit of the clear coat during this step.

All In One Products - This step is used to save time by combining some cleaning or polishing characteristics along with some form of protection. While the results are not quite as good as doing the steps separately, these products save time for people looking for great results in less time.

Glazes - Glazes typically have oils and clay in their formula in order to help fill in and hide imperfections. This is only a temporary solution as the fillers will wash out over time.

Sealants - This step adds a barrier of protection that typically lasts 3 - 6 months. A majority of sealants are easy to apply and remove, while giving off a reflective, mirror like look. These products are usually created in a lab.

Waxes - This step will add protection that typically lasts 2 - 8 weeks. A benefit of waxing is you add depth and dimension that sealants are unable to achieve. This is commonly used at car shows to really give off the wet look.

Spray on Protectants - This step usually enhances either a sealant or wax and is often used after a wash and dry during a maintenance step.

Quick Detailers - These products often have light cleaners in them and are great for removing a light dusting after performing a full detail.

Getting to know each step of the detailing process will really help you grow and learn when and why you are performing a detail on your vehicle. This is especially important if you plan on detailing for other people. It will save you a lot of time and you will best meet the customers needs by understanding what happens during each step of the process.

After you really understand what is going on, the products used are just the finishing touches. Once you start looking at the higher quality brands of detailing products, when used correctly, they will yield great results. Some products look better on certain colors, some will be more durable, some interior will give off more gloss or more of a matte look, etc. We all come to have our favorites and go to products over time.

Golden Rule - Prep work is the key to any quality detail. This means removing as much contamination as possible and removing as many imperfections in the clear coat as possible (while doing it safely of course). Prep work occurs during washing and drying, using a clay bar, polishing and glazing.

As far as Zaino vs OTC products is concerned. I think the biggest thing you would notice is longer durability of the protection offered. Zaino is always noted for its durability and recently have made some of their products easier to apply and use. If you vehicle is heavily swirled, Zaino may not be the best option to take, as they only have an option or two that actually remove imperfections. Other steps, such as Z5 fill in and hide imperfections.

I hope this gives you some insight on caring for your new vehicle and what options are available to you when it comes to choosing what processes your vehicle can undergo.

If you have any questions on anything presented, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

I currently use california duster which I know you do not like. Is it ok to spray on quick detailer instead and use microfiber to "dust off". Will this mare the paint?

[Greg Nichols]

Calif dusters can cause more harm than good, but a lot of it comes down to how you use it.

I have taken care of all of Fords cars at SEMA for a few years and there is no way you can keep all the dust off them every hour. We use a duster like the Calif, but adjust the technique to try and minimize the possibility of issues.

the main part of the "mop" never touches the car, we only allow the "fingers" of the fibers to drag across the surface. The fibers are misted with a QD to help attract the dust. this method works well, not perfect but it works.

The rule to strive for it that if you touch the car, how can I minimize the chance and techniques and products can help.

Cheers,
GREG

[E90raw]

Hey, I posted a negative comment on Detailed images site about one of their products, and they deleted the comment! Whats up with that?

[SHEEDI]

Originally Posted by E90raw

Hey, I posted a negative comment on Detailed images site about one of their products, and they deleted the comment! Whats up with that?

LOL
If they dont introduce such products, like dusters,no rinse wash etc then how they going to sell compound, polishes and swirls removers and other paint correction products?

Once the car is outside after wash,never touch it,next time you touch your car when you do proper wash.
waterless wash,dust buster etc will create swirls and scratches

[Zero_09]

My brother is heading over to the states for a couple of days and I want to pick up some microfiber towels there since Canada don't have a lot of selection for a good price.

Any recommendations on what towels to get and where. Only place I know so far is Autogeek and Chemical guys. I'm planning to pick up 20 towels. 10 buffing towels and 10 rinseless wash towels GDM

[xtreme4ce]

Awesome site and store. I just put in my first order for the quick detailer. So excited... :-D

Thanks Greg.

[Mulehead]

Hey all - I just picked up a nice e92 328 coupe with low miles and a good bit of time left on the warranty (CPO). My last BMW was an E46 'vert that was just a blast, but that was 10 years and a couple degrees ago... now with school paid off, time to take the plunge again. SO glad i did...these cars are just awesome!

I'll be keeping this one a good long time and have started the detailing process with the engine compartment. It was relatively clean, however it seems to have a fairly thick film of oil residue everywhere. I used a bit of simple green, but that really didn't cut it and resorted to hot soapy water which did a bit better.

Would any of the available engine cleaners from Chemical Guys or AutoGeek work any better on the engine compartment?

Thanks much!

Well I think I found an answer to my question: http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ur-engine-bay/

I would still welcome opinions on specific products though - cheers!

[DarkNemesis]

My car is Sapphire Metallic Black.
I use Mothers Carnuba (by hand) most of the time, but it does not last beyond 4 weeks at the most.
I live in vancouver, bc, canada and it rains alot here.
but got lazy after the about 3 month of no detailing and decided to use the Mothers Syn-wax that came with the power ball.

I have to admit, the Syn-wax was a lot deeper, did not see any spider-webs, and it was a very wet black.
That was a week ago.

What I want to know is for someone who doesn't have a polisher or any tool save a drill; what do you recommend for someone that just wants the following:
1. Wash the car 1 pass, by hand.
2. Wax the car, again 1 pass.

But I want it to last the longest and have the deepest wet look.

Is there a quick cheap solution?
I drive the daily.

Thx in advance.
DN

[mjd335]

Hey George,
First off this is a great thread. I have an 07 BMW E90 and my headlights were involved in an accidental drop of a spray paint can while cleaning my garage and the can got punctured and sprayed all over the front of my car and other stuff. The only thing I had on hand was goof-off to clean off the green spay paint and they were left with a hazed/pitted/scratched, they weren't in the best of shape before the incident. The H.L's were the only area of my car that I couldn't get "repaired". So anyway I used Meguiar's H.L. restore kit, turtle wax H.L. restore kit, and then I found a company that has a professional kit (Dvelop), and still fine scratches are still there. Oh yea then I got the mother's red buff ball for the drill, I forget the exact name but used that with the polish that came with the Dvelop kit and scratchX (I think Mag's). What could be my next step. I used wet-sand paper grit 400, 1000, 2000, 2500, and 3000. Dvelop included only 400, 1000, and 2000, when that didn't work I used 2500, and 3000. I've restored H.L's on a few cars/trucks and came out great, but the BMW is really aggravating me. Should I go with M105 and/or M205? and what pads do you suggest? I figured I'll give you the whole story so you know where I'm at, so I apologize for this long question. I guess I would say that I'm not very knowledgeable about buffing and polishing plastic or painted surfaces except for the previous headlights I mentioned earlier. I tried inserting images but they were too big or something, if photos would you help me maybe there is another way for me to get you photos? Please save me.

[adriang]

Planning on detailing my car for spring.

Can I avoid using a buffer to polish and just polish by hand?

[Zero_09]

Originally Posted by adriang

Planning on detailing my car for spring.

Can I avoid using a buffer to polish and just polish by hand?

It depends if you have a lot of swirls. Polishing by hand is very time consuming and you will mostly not get it out by hand. Do a google search for the PC 7424XP. They got for around $100-$130. They work great for getting rid of swirls and fine scratches.

[adriang]

Thanks for you response,
Ive tried taking care of the paint on my car as much as possible so I don't believe there are that many swirls, I would just like to make the car look like new again for the summer.

My main problems are small scratches here and there which I've read need to be buffed out. Maybe it is worth investing in a buffer after all!

[rvladescu]

335 alpine white
I have been trying to remove some clear coat scratches with PC DA original backing plate and lake country orange pads and Menzerna ip 2000 without success. What am I doing wrong or suggestions as it feels that the clear coat is hard like a rock

[rvladescu]

Originally Posted by rvladescu

335 alpine white
I have been trying to remove some clear coat scratches with PC DA original backing plate and lake country orange pads and Menzerna ip 2000 without success. What am I doing wrong or suggestions as it feels that the clear coat is hard like a rock

No help?