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      03-13-2013, 01:19 PM   #23
nightops
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Originally Posted by bplewis24 View Post
I'm not really sure what this is supposed to mean, but I highly doubt any car "automatically goes into a CPO" at any point. They have to do a thorough inspection for it to go into a CPO.
i think that means it was sold as a certified car one once before the orig 4 yrs were up. since the orig warranty is intact at the time they go with that until it expires, then they go into extended. The full maintenence plan is additional meaning you no longer get free oil changes and whatnot unless you buy this.
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      03-13-2013, 01:26 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by bplewis24 View Post
I'm not really sure what this is supposed to mean, but I highly doubt any car "automatically goes into a CPO" at any point. They have to do a thorough inspection for it to go into a CPO.
I think maybe he meant that once the factory warranty runs out, the CPO kicks in for the next 2 years or 50k miles.

I would encourage you to look at new cars like some others here have said. I ordered a 2013 328i coupe and used the leverage of "this is the end of production for this model, shortly to be followed by a brand new, never before seen model." My car MSRP'd for $46,995 and I agreed to a sale price of $42,300. I am leasing through BMWFS so that probably played a role, but still, that's a $4695 discount on a car that's not only brand new with a new warranty, but that was built to my specifications.

It's definitely worth considering. You can easily get really good deals on new coupes currently sitting on lots, because they're soon to become lot queens/auction vehicles.

Good luck!
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      03-13-2013, 02:26 PM   #25
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Do you mean that the CPO warranty kicks in once the factory warranty expires?
yes sir, thats what their client adviser told me over the phone yesterday
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      03-13-2013, 02:27 PM   #26
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I think maybe he meant that once the factory warranty runs out, the CPO kicks in for the next 2 years or 50k miles.

I would encourage you to look at new cars like some others here have said. I ordered a 2013 328i coupe and used the leverage of "this is the end of production for this model, shortly to be followed by a brand new, never before seen model." My car MSRP'd for $46,995 and I agreed to a sale price of $42,300. I am leasing through BMWFS so that probably played a role, but still, that's a $4695 discount on a car that's not only brand new with a new warranty, but that was built to my specifications.

It's definitely worth considering. You can easily get really good deals on new coupes currently sitting on lots, because they're soon to become lot queens/auction vehicles.

Good luck!
i'll definitely look into this as well and will ask and inquire when i go in maybe later on this afternoon or friday.
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      03-13-2013, 02:30 PM   #27
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i always get two cars with similar prices and options, then tell each salesman that the other will do this price or throw in that, and they keep lowering the price until the one i actually want is at the price i want

i got my current order down 80 bucks a month by doing this

worked out reallllllly well
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      03-13-2013, 02:32 PM   #28
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Do not by from a dealer but from a wholesaler/broker, generally you pay a % of the asking price which ususally has a cap at a total $$ amount paid(when I purchased, my fees were 5% of wholesale auction price not to exceed $2,000).

These brokers carry high-line 2-3 year old lease return vehicles, there always cheaper because they have small inventories and no service or parts departments. I have done this twice and have saved thousands below fair market retail dealer pricing.

To the OP, in your market go to eleasereturns.com....they are fantastic and tell Joe I said hi.

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      08-17-2013, 06:05 AM   #29
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Has anyone had a harder time negotiating a 6speed recently? Those with sports package are hard to come by.
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      08-17-2013, 08:16 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by kdbryce View Post
i always get two cars with similar prices and options, then tell each salesman that the other will do this price or throw in that, and they keep lowering the price until the one i actually want is at the price i want

i got my current order down 80 bucks a month by doing this

worked out reallllllly well
This is my technique too. You end up knowing you got a decent deal when the salesman says "that other deal is much better than anything I can do, you should get that other car".
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      08-17-2013, 10:44 AM   #31
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Tell him you got x amount in cash ready if we do this price worked for me. Tell em you got cash if he's got the right price.
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      08-17-2013, 11:31 AM   #32
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Hey guys,

so basically i've been in the search for a 335i coupe 6m/t and have finally found one at a bmw dealership. its a 2010 335i coupe manual with about 26k miles and has a listing price of $38k.

I've already requested more information and what not. the question is, how should have you guys negotiated your prices down? i'm not too familiar with negotiating and would like advice on how to start the negotiating.

any responses would great! thanks!

thats expensive !
i got mine for 33k drive out

2011 335i sedan with navi, pedal shifter, sport package, premium package, new tires, with 26k miles
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      08-17-2013, 02:43 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by SharkBait View Post
It's just like dating:

1. Don't be too interested up front
2. Very subtly let them know you have alternatives
3. Be prepared to walk away
4. Don't fall in love

If it's a rare breed and you are very particular, the same rules above apply, but this time you're bluffing which is hard to do. Otherwise expect to pay close to asking price. For my 335i, it was exactly what I wanted and took me 3 months to find it, so I bluffed for as long as I could. Didn't get the best deal but got a decent amount off of asking. Probably paid a little more than a sharp negotiator would have but it was worth it.
HAHAHAHAHAHA well said my friend 1-4
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      08-17-2013, 03:11 PM   #34
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I haven't read all the posts above. I did notice the advice in post 6 is well worth following.

I offered input on this matter on many an occasions. Here are some, I don't have time to dig them all up for you. I'm sorry.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=23 - this post addresses strategy in the car buying process.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...4&postcount=25 - this post was in response to a question about buying a new car, but many of it's concepts are applicable to that of buying used cars as well, especially the concept of floor plan, which is especially important.

Lastly, I sent TrentOSU (another member) one or two very involved emails regarding the buying process. He recently bought a car similar to the one you are considering and in a similar price range I believe. He may still have the emails I sent him and if so, ask him for them. Tell him I put you on to him.

All the best.
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      08-17-2013, 06:17 PM   #35
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I'll sell you mine with 21,000 miles for $37k.
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      08-18-2013, 03:00 AM   #36
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What is the edmunds.com price for the same spec car if u try the "appraise my car", as if u were going to sell the car to the dealership. Then aim for that price as your target. If the car sales guy won't budge... Tell him u are working on a private seller as well and you want to see how that goes because that guy is motivated to make the sale now.

Tell the dealership guy to hang on to your number and give u a call when the numbers can work (hopefully you will still be on the market for a car when he's read to sell). So basically by saying this you have flipped it to the bmw salesman is not willing to sell you the car and he can just keep his parking lot growing and no commission. He will call u in a couple days and thats when you have to say "the private party guy is ready to get a ppi done on the car with me on the weekend, has anything changed on your side mr salesman? Let me know if your ready to sell because i'm about to pull the trigger on another car". That will light the fire u need.
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      08-18-2013, 03:36 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fazman View Post
What is the edmunds.com price for the same spec car if u try the "appraise my car", as if u were going to sell the car to the dealership. Then aim for that price as your target. If the car sales guy won't budge... Tell him u are working on a private seller as well and you want to see how that goes because that guy is motivated to make the sale now.

Tell the dealership guy to hang on to your number and give u a call when the numbers can work (hopefully you will still be on the market for a car when he's read to sell). So basically by saying this you have flipped it to the bmw salesman is not willing to sell you the car and he can just keep his parking lot growing and no commission. He will call u in a couple days and thats when you have to say "the private party guy is ready to get a ppi done on the car with me on the weekend, has anything changed on your side mr salesman? Let me know if your ready to sell because i'm about to pull the trigger on another car". That will light the fire u need.
The Edmund's price is an estimated wholesale value. The difference between selling your car to a dealer and selling it to a non-dealer is that a dealer will only pay you something less than the actual wholesale value for the car. The reason this is so is that dealers have exclusive access to wholesale auto auctions at which they can buy the very best of used cars at a wholesale price.

Unless your car is in perfect shape, needs no input of resources and has inordinately low mileage, the dealer sees your car as being no better than the best cars he can buy at auction. Moreover, to buy your car and keep it on his lot, he must actually pay for it out of his pocket rather than being able to floorplan it as he does the rest of his inventory. That's because you want your money for the car "now." If instead he sells or consigns your car to a wholesaler, he may not be seeking to make a ton on that transaction, but he intends to make some amount of profit. Accordingly, the dealer cannot pay you full wholesale value for the car and think he can make money selling it on the other side of the industry.

FWIW, I can't see the dealer being too concerned about competing on a price basis with a private seller. He already knows his car is going to be more expensive and that he can't beat the price a motivated private seller is willing to accept. On the other hand, he can offer a buyer CPO coverage and a private seller cannot. The dealer can also offer financing, which opens the door for the buyer to then create some competition between BMWNA and the buyer's bank, bookie, or whatever. (I don't recall if the OP is financing or paying cash.) The dealer can administer the tax, tag, and titling of the car for the buyer. A private seller cannot. I'm not saying the hardball approach you suggest above cannot work, but I think it's likelihood for success is low. If instead the OP can play one BMW dealer against the other, the principles behind your suggestion will likely play to the OP's benefit.
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      08-18-2013, 03:34 PM   #38
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hey thanks guys, i really appreciate the input. i'm doing more research and have scheduled to check it out on friday! they did mention about how it automatically goes into a cpo after the standard insurance goes out next year.
That is true. It's one of the reasons to buy a high quality, low mileage (<9K miles/year) one or two year old CPO car from a BMW dealer. All the benefits of a new car at a price a good deal below that of a new car. I would have liked to buy my E92 used, but in '07 when I bought it, there weren't many E92s period, to say nothing of a used one.

I hope everything works out well for you.
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      08-18-2013, 03:47 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by kfriceman View Post
Do not by from a dealer but from a wholesaler/broker, generally you pay a % of the asking price which ususally has a cap at a total $$ amount paid(when I purchased, my fees were 5% of wholesale auction price not to exceed $2,000).

These brokers carry high-line 2-3 year old lease return vehicles, there always cheaper because they have small inventories and no service or parts departments. I have done this twice and have saved thousands below fair market retail dealer pricing.

To the OP, in your market go to eleasereturns.com....they are fantastic and tell Joe I said hi.

-Kevin
I think in general, and particularly for someone not buying a CPO car anyway, that's an outstandingly good suggestion. Were I a prospective 335i used car buyer, however, I would be somewhat reluctant to use this channel because I would want as much warranty protection as I can get with a 335i. Obviously, if the price savings is sufficient, then this is still a good idea, even for a 335i.

For the following example, what would you expect to pay a broker/wholesaler?

2011 335is coupe, 18.2K miles, nav, premium package, HK radio. Dealer listing is $43K and it's a CPO car. This is from an actual listing at my local BMW dealer right now.

I know that minimally one could with no effort at all buy that car from the dealer for $40.5K.
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      08-19-2013, 12:26 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by tony20009 View Post
I think in general, and particularly for someone not buying a CPO car anyway, that's an outstandingly good suggestion. Were I a prospective 335i used car buyer, however, I would be somewhat reluctant to use this channel because I would want as much warranty protection as I can get with a 335i. Obviously, if the price savings is sufficient, then this is still a good idea, even for a 335i.

For the following example, what would you expect to pay a broker/wholesaler?

2011 335is coupe, 18.2K miles, nav, premium package, HK radio. Dealer listing is $43K and it's a CPO car. This is from an actual listing at my local BMW dealer right now.

I know that minimally one could with no effort at all buy that car from the dealer for $40.5K.
Make an offer for $30k and work up to $32k max, let him come to you.
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