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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > ESS or COBB for a 335IS?



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      03-28-2013, 08:39 PM   #67
lukasbmw
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Do we know the boost levels Cobb and ESS run?

10 psi is stock correct?

Most tunes are 15-16 psi?
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      03-28-2013, 08:46 PM   #68
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I think IS goes as high as 14 or 15 down low during over boost. Stock I did 340 wtq and 282 who. So u can see how much power the is hits low.
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      03-28-2013, 08:48 PM   #69
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Not positive but I think 10 is normal & 14 is overboost under certain limited conditions. On Map 6 I have 16psi available all the time. Delta is up to 65whp on some 335is with a tune only & 40% E85 in 93 octane.

When I get time will log Map 4 (stock) to see what the boost looks like.
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      03-28-2013, 09:01 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukasbmw View Post
Do we know the boost levels Cobb and ESS run?

10 psi is stock correct?

Most tunes are 15-16 psi?
Measured with p3cars gauge, can't comment on accuracy...

Stock: 12.2 psi during over boost, had several spikes to 13 psi.
Cobb stage 1 sport stock throttle calibration: 14.4 psi with some spikes to 15.1
Cobb stage 1 aggressive stock throttle calibration: 16.5 psi, have seen several reads go as high as 17.1.

Noticeable difference with aggressive tune, running 93 octane only. This is running IS Cobb map. Waiting on intercooler to try out stage 1 plus.
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      03-29-2013, 07:19 AM   #71
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Installed Cobb Stage 1 Aggressive (stock throttle) last night on my 335is. All I can think about is driving my car...........!!!!!!!!!
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      03-29-2013, 07:30 AM   #72
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Quote:
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Installed Cobb Stage 1 Aggressive (stock throttle) last night on my 335is. All I can think about is driving my car...........!!!!!!!!!
Be prepared to enjoy 4 sec 0 to 60 acceleration ...
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      03-29-2013, 08:09 PM   #73
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Me too bro I'd have done helix but my indy never called me back. Although my hose to the turbo popped off and I was getting boost leak so hopefully its fixed (had to leave the cobb on for the dealer visit due to it only throwing codes in that mode). I just hope its not a clamp issue that will continue to crop up each time I boost.
That's exactly why I ended up with Dinan. I left several messages (phone and email) with local shops and couldn't seem to get any solid communication going. The BMW dealer was more than happy to earn some extra coin. Plus with them installing, I should be a bit safer if any issues crop up.
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      03-29-2013, 09:02 PM   #74
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That's exactly why I ended up with Dinan. I left several messages (phone and email) with local shops and couldn't seem to get any solid communication going. The BMW dealer was more than happy to earn some extra coin. Plus with them installing, I should be a bit safer if any issues crop up.
lol speak for yourself they tell me my turbo hoses keep popping off after install and I can't get my car back never thought FMIC would be so hard... I agree though nobody around here wants work lmao, I called shops left and right to do oil cooler and nobody wanted to do it. One guy sounded awesome who even said he'd get me stainless steel hoses but never called back for a quote.
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      03-29-2013, 09:21 PM   #75
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You guys really need to learn how to do your own bolt-ons. None of these basic ones are rocket science. A 5” FMIC should take less than an hour for a first timer. Trick with an IS is to remove the fan first. A big 7” one might take twice as long if you are careful cutting the plastic. If its sheading the hoses its most likely the clamps. Worm drive clamps are not too good. T bolt clamps work well & are easy to get very tight.
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      03-30-2013, 08:50 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
You guys really need to learn how to do your own bolt-ons. None of these basic ones are rocket science. A 5 FMIC should take less than an hour for a first timer. Trick with an IS is to remove the fan first. A big 7 one might take twice as long if you are careful cutting the plastic. If its sheading the hoses its most likely the clamps. Worm drive clamps are not too good. T bolt clamps work well & are easy to get very tight.
I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have a grand array of tools in my chest! Time is what I am missing. I would like to dig in myself though and learn a bit more about the motor.
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      03-30-2013, 10:08 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
You guys really need to learn how to do your own bolt-ons. None of these basic ones are rocket science. A 5” FMIC should take less than an hour for a first timer. Trick with an IS is to remove the fan first. A big 7” one might take twice as long if you are careful cutting the plastic. If its sheading the hoses its most likely the clamps. Worm drive clamps are not too good. T bolt clamps work well & are easy to get very tight.
My intercooler should be here soon, also went with ets 5.. Didn't want to do any plastic shroud cutting. How difficult is it to remove fan on n54?
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      02-21-2014, 11:45 PM   #78
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      02-22-2014, 01:08 AM   #79
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