E90Post
 


Bimmertech
 
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Pictures: Electric water pump + thermostat replace



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      02-01-2013, 12:33 PM   #155
killingjoke73
New Member
 
Drives: 2006 BMW 325i
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Georgetown, KY

Posts: 5
iTrader: (0)

Great DIY guide, helped alot. The only thing I would add, is that if you are just doing the pump, and you are trying to get to that top pump bolt.... Remove the lower coolant hose from the thermostat..( the one with the snap clip fastener ).. Then remove the inner front fender well plastic. Then, using a 12", a 6" and an knuckle you'll be able to get right to that upper water pump screw from the wheel well with no problem. I was stuck for hours trying to figure out how to get to it... Wanted to post my 2 cents to save anyone else alot of time.
killingjoke73 is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      03-30-2013, 09:43 PM   #156
Casca
Captain
 
Drives: E90 6MT
Join Date: May 2010
Location: California

Posts: 617
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by killingjoke73 View Post
Great DIY guide, helped alot. The only thing I would add, is that if you are just doing the pump, and you are trying to get to that top pump bolt.... Remove the lower coolant hose from the thermostat..( the one with the snap clip fastener ).. Then remove the inner front fender well plastic. Then, using a 12", a 6" and an knuckle you'll be able to get right to that upper water pump screw from the wheel well with no problem. I was stuck for hours trying to figure out how to get to it... Wanted to post my 2 cents to save anyone else alot of time.
I just used a short ratchet and short extension with an E10 (or was it E12) socket. All the bolts were easy to reach. For the top, I just put my hand in (with tools) from the front area where the radiator hose goes through. Then my other hand went in where the general area of the pump is (where the other two bolts are) to guide the E10 socket onto the bolt. No problems loosening/tightening that bolt. My hands are not baseball gloves big, but they aren't small either (wear a size large glove).

The problem I had was with the large and small hoses that have the rigid plastic collar. Pain in the ass getting both off. Spent more time on those things than anything else. Getting both back on was a pain too. With the small one, I heard a distinct click and feel pretty assured that it is on there correctly. With the large one, I had to push real hard with a large screwdriver all around it, never heard a click....but visually checked where I can the the grooves on the t-stat lined up with the rigid collar before letting the clip down. Pulled real hard on both the hose and they booth seem to be secure.....or maybe I am just not pulling hard enough. Guess I'll find out tomorrow when I leak check it, but with my luck it probably won't do anything bad till it is nice and heated up on the freeway far from home.
Casca is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      03-31-2013, 08:06 AM   #157
Efthreeoh
Brigadier General
 
Drives: E90
Join Date: May 2012
Location: MARLAND

Posts: 3,050
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Casca View Post
I just used a short ratchet and short extension with an E10 (or was it E12) socket. All the bolts were easy to reach. For the top, I just put my hand in (with tools) from the front area where the radiator hose goes through. Then my other hand went in where the general area of the pump is (where the other two bolts are) to guide the E10 socket onto the bolt. No problems loosening/tightening that bolt. My hands are not baseball gloves big, but they aren't small either (wear a size large glove).

The problem I had was with the large and small hoses that have the rigid plastic collar. Pain in the ass getting both off. Spent more time on those things than anything else. Getting both back on was a pain too. With the small one, I heard a distinct click and feel pretty assured that it is on there correctly. With the large one, I had to push real hard with a large screwdriver all around it, never heard a click....but visually checked where I can the the grooves on the t-stat lined up with the rigid collar before letting the clip down. Pulled real hard on both the hose and they booth seem to be secure.....or maybe I am just not pulling hard enough. Guess I'll find out tomorrow when I leak check it, but with my luck it probably won't do anything bad till it is nice and heated up on the freeway far from home.
It's an E10. I used a 3/8-drive Craftsman ratchet and a 6" extension bar with a universal at the end. Works perfect.
Efthreeoh is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      03-31-2013, 11:31 AM   #158
Casca
Captain
 
Drives: E90 6MT
Join Date: May 2010
Location: California

Posts: 617
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
It's an E10. I used a 3/8-drive Craftsman ratchet and a 6" extension bar with a universal at the end. Works perfect.
You don't even need a universal. Started out with a universal on the end as well, but from the position I had it, it was a straight shot easily reached and the universal just made it more awkward (kept going at an angle interfering with ratcheting), so I took it off.

Also replaced the oil filter housing gasket, oil/coolant temp sensor and the aux fan sensor. The oil/coolant temp sensor was coated with some crap....which may have been related to my fan turning on all the time. All made really easy to do with a fairly decent feeling set of "E" sockets from Harbor freight

http://www.harborfreight.com/17-piec...set-67930.html

and these torx ratcheting box ends made that gasket job a piece of cake, thanks to mlifxs for bringing it to attention in the oil filter gasket DIY thread.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All you need is the e10 box end, but I got the whole ratcheting set as well as the non-racheting set ....just in case.
Casca is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      04-22-2013, 09:06 AM   #159
Gatchek
Private
 
Drives: 2006 330XI
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NH

Posts: 67
iTrader: (0)

Water Pump and Tstat replacement

Water Pump finally went yesterday. 330XI with 125K. After reading all the posts here, it looks like I was on the high-end. Standard yellow temp warning, immediately followed by a red temp warning, resulting in Limp mode. There was some coolant splashed around the reservoir tank, but not too much. Added some water, and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes. Started it back up and didnít even get out of the parking lot before it yelled at me again A big thanks to all the folks who took time to document the process for the rest of us! I will be tackling this procedure myself and saving about $1000 by not taking it to the dealership. I will post back with how it went, but I am lots of confidence that it will be "fairly easy"... again.. thanks to all those who forged the way.

Ordered the parts (WP & Tstat) online for about $547 with 2-day shipping. I will be doing it on ramps, soo... I have been stretching now to get ready to contort myself.
__________________
2006 330XI MN6
106K miles
Enkei M3 Gunmetal 18x8" square setup
AFE intake,BMW perf shifter, Custom computer in ashtray, Coded
Gatchek is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      04-22-2013, 02:40 PM   #160
lukasbmw
Mr. Hustle
 
Drives: 2008 e92 335i
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Phoenix AZ & San Diego CA

Posts: 147
iTrader: (0)

Mine went out today. Same situation as many others have posted.

-I pulled into Mr. Goodcents subs to get some lunch
-Had some lunch
-Started the car
-Noticed the yellow cooling light come on as I drove away.
-Started looking for a friendly place to pull over
-The yellow temperature light turned to red
-Pulled over right away
-Noticed no leaks
-Said "FUCK!" and then figured it was the water pump

Car is sitting at the shop right now. Hoping my aftermarket warranty picks up the tab.
__________________

2008 335i COUPE
AA race intercooler/AA downpipes/ESS stage 2/BMS DCI
19" Vossen/M-tec front/shadowline/black grills/V1 radar
lukasbmw is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      04-22-2013, 03:49 PM   #161
raceyBMW
king of the hills
 
raceyBMW's Avatar
 
Drives: 335i coupe
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Denver, CO

Posts: 2,735
iTrader: (1)

Garage List
1994 530i  [4.25]
2007 335i Coupe  [4.07]
What mileage?
raceyBMW is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      04-24-2013, 06:53 PM   #162
Gatchek
Private
 
Drives: 2006 330XI
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NH

Posts: 67
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatchek View Post
Water Pump finally went yesterday. 330XI with 125K. After reading all the posts here, it looks like I was on the high-end. Standard yellow temp warning, immediately followed by a red temp warning, resulting in Limp mode. There was some coolant splashed around the reservoir tank, but not too much. Added some water, and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes. Started it back up and didnít even get out of the parking lot before it yelled at me again A big thanks to all the folks who took time to document the process for the rest of us! I will be tackling this procedure myself and saving about $1000 by not taking it to the dealership. I will post back with how it went, but I am lots of confidence that it will be "fairly easy"... again.. thanks to all those who forged the way.

Ordered the parts (WP & Tstat) online for about $547 with 2-day shipping. I will be doing it on ramps, soo... I have been stretching now to get ready to contort myself.

All done! Took about 5 hours. Wasn't too bad thanks to the DIYs here! If I could impart any wisdom on people who's thermostat or water pump hasn't died yet.... if you have more than 90K on your car, and you plan to keep it past 100K, I would do the WP and TS soon! Make no mistake, don't think that it will last.... it won't. Do it on your terms... not the car's terms. Luckily it broke 10 miles form my house, but it could have been much much worse.

I saved about $1200 in labor by doing it myself. It wasn't difficult, and it makes it so much easier when you remove the radiator fan, and the coolant reservoir tank. Also, when installing the new TS and WP, connect them with the "U" hose Before installing them in the car.
__________________
2006 330XI MN6
106K miles
Enkei M3 Gunmetal 18x8" square setup
AFE intake,BMW perf shifter, Custom computer in ashtray, Coded
Gatchek is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      04-25-2013, 11:37 AM   #163
LittleBlue
Second Lieutenant
 
Drives: 2006 325i
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: U.S.A

Posts: 234
iTrader: (0)

Send a message via Yahoo to LittleBlue
Dealer charged me $1300 for everything that included a radiator flush, WP and a Therm, if parts cost around $550 is what I hear is the average then dealer charged me $500 for labor plus the $200 for flushing the radiator. It would have been fun to do it myself but I wasn't about to waste an entire day to do that and having to mess with it especially in freezing temperatures. Got it done while at the office and delivered to me when done, 2 year warrantee .
LittleBlue is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      05-08-2013, 02:27 PM   #164
09E90utah
Private
 
Drives: 2009 335i x-drive
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah

Posts: 98
iTrader: (0)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatchek View Post
All done! Took about 5 hours. Wasn't too bad thanks to the DIYs here! If I could impart any wisdom on people who's thermostat or water pump hasn't died yet.... if you have more than 90K on your car, and you plan to keep it past 100K, I would do the WP and TS soon! Make no mistake, don't think that it will last.... it won't. Do it on your terms... not the car's terms. Luckily it broke 10 miles form my house, but it could have been much much worse.

I saved about $1200 in labor by doing it myself. It wasn't difficult, and it makes it so much easier when you remove the radiator fan, and the coolant reservoir tank. Also, when installing the new TS and WP, connect them with the "U" hose Before installing them in the car.
It's good to see that someone tackled this with an XI. Is there any issues with our xi parts in the way?
09E90utah is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      05-18-2013, 09:37 AM   #165
sdubois
New Member
 
Drives: 2009 MNW 335i E92
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Fair Lawn, NJ

Posts: 5
iTrader: (0)

Garage List
Waterpump on my 09 335i went at 86,000

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bcube View Post
james,

What was the mileage? I noticed saalim mentioned his went out at ~130,000 miles.

Trying to anticipate when I can expect mine to inop.
Same symptoms here. Loss of power, followed by Amber light followed by Red. Shut car off, restarted a bit later, was able to drive 2 miles home. Went right to repair shop, estimate was for $1000.00 for pump replacement.

sdubois is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      05-20-2013, 06:55 AM   #166
thecadman99
First Lieutenant
 
thecadman99's Avatar
 
Drives: e90 330i 6mt spt bk/bk
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Virginia

Posts: 373
iTrader: (0)

Just did my pump/tstat yesterday. Thanks for the helpful pics.

Some things that I observed that might help others:

When removing the bottom pan, use the corner of one of the the two thin, aluminum cover mounts (that have to be removed anyhow) to unscrew the blue plug from the radiator. The rounded edge of the aluminum plate is a perfect fit in the big blue screw. Don't remove the white nut!
I was worried aobut dropping the sway bar, that it might have tension on it. It doesn't just remove the 4 nuts and be prepared to catch it on the last nut.

Unbolt the steering hose mount, and it will sit behind the sway bar out of your way.


This is the plug on the thermostat. Its a pain to unplug, just like the one on the waterpump. Be very careful with the NEW thermostat because the receptacle for the plug sticks out like a sore thumb. It would be very easy to break it when trying to manuver the thermostat back into place.


I used a swivel ratchet to get to some of the difficult hose clamps. To help get the clamps off, I used some trim removal tools from harbor freight. They are good for prying on the hose ends without cutting them with something like a screwdriver.




I had a tough time with the thermostat. I couldn't get it out without removing the waterpump. I had to sit it towards the back of the car on the subframe while I worked on the pump.
I also could not get the new therm in place with the new pump in place. I had to put them in together (but not bolted together).

Also, check your new thermostat for sharp mold/flashing points. Mine had a few spots that would have made getting the hoses on tougher than necessary.

Good luck!
__________________
06 330i 6mt Spt- Eibach Springs, BMW Perf Susp, Supersprint Exhaust, BSW Audio
94 325i 5mt 4d- M3 springs/susp, Z3 wheels, Chipped, Intake, Exhaust= FUN!
thecadman99 is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      06-01-2013, 04:56 PM   #167
txx3ddq442
Registered
 
Drives: 2007 M Coupe, 2006 325i
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: New Orleans, LA

Posts: 4
iTrader: (0)

Overhaul complete-tips and a question

Ordered the parts last week to do a cooling system overhaul: pump, thermostat, expansion tank and cap, temp sensor, upper and lower radiator hose, the horseshoe hose between the pump and stat and some replacement hose clamps. Everything was delivered on Thursday.

I have a 2006 325i with 103,000 miles. On the way home from work, I got the yellow temperature warning followed almost immediately by the red and limp mode. I was at mile 22 of 24 on the world's longest bridge, The Causeway. No shoulder. Since I live about 1 mile from the end of the bridge, I limped home.

On Friday I picked up a set of Torx and external Torx sockets and began tackling the replacement after work using the DIY here. Here are some key observations:
1. Don't hesitate to remove the expansion tank. It's two bolts and it gives you some space and some play in the hoses.
2. Absolutely remove the radiator fan. 1 Torx screw and you can drop it down and out of the way. This allows MUCH easier access to the pump and stat. Especially the Torx bolt on the back side of the pump. No u-joint needed if you go at it from the front.
3. The hoses with clamps are a bitch to remove. I had to shut down Friday and regroup. The key is to break the seal with a small screwdriver. You should be able to feel this when it happens.
4. Safety glasses are a must. You will get coolant and grime in your face.

Hope this helps.

And now for my question. When Draining the radiator, I pulled the whole white plug out instead of the middle blue piece. Is it only friction that holds it all in or did I crack off some sort of retaining clips? Should I bite the bullet and replace it now or can I leave it alone? It would require a coolant drain and refill at this point.

Also, I was only able to get about 1.8 gallons back into the reservoir and the red stick is way over top. Does this mean that I didn't drain everything? I ran the 12 minute flush twice.
txx3ddq442 is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      06-01-2013, 11:18 PM   #168
shadowx360
Private
 
Drives: 2006 BMW 330i
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: United States

Posts: 51
iTrader: (0)

txx3ddq442: Thanks for the tips about the radiator fan. Can you tell me what size the Torx screw you used to take off the fan?

As for the white plug, I saw a Youtube video on changing the water pump on an E90 BMW and they said they had to change theirs after they accidentally removed it.
shadowx360 is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      06-02-2013, 01:27 PM   #169
txx3ddq442
Registered
 
Drives: 2007 M Coupe, 2006 325i
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: New Orleans, LA

Posts: 4
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowx360 View Post
Can you tell me what size the Torx screw you used to take off the fan?
It's a silver/gray T25. Looks similar to the ones that hold the air filter box together.
txx3ddq442 is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      06-19-2013, 08:04 AM   #170
LittleBlue
Second Lieutenant
 
Drives: 2006 325i
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: U.S.A

Posts: 234
iTrader: (0)

Send a message via Yahoo to LittleBlue
Would a sign of a water pump being bad also be a whistle that is heard at certain speeds that is coincides with engine revs? It is not heard when parked, it's not a wheel bearing nor is it a tensioner or a pulley. Any ideas? Trying to narrow it down. Thanks
LittleBlue is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-19-2013, 09:17 AM   #171
Surly73
Captain
 
Drives: 2007 E90 328i 6MT sport/prem
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Oakville, Ontario

Posts: 722
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBlue View Post
Would a sign of a water pump being bad also be a whistle that is heard at certain speeds that is coincides with engine revs? It is not heard when parked, it's not a wheel bearing nor is it a tensioner or a pulley. Any ideas? Trying to narrow it down. Thanks
The wpump is electric and has no correlation to engine speed.
Surly73 is offline   Canada
0
Reply With Quote
      06-19-2013, 10:03 AM   #172
LittleBlue
Second Lieutenant
 
Drives: 2006 325i
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: U.S.A

Posts: 234
iTrader: (0)

Send a message via Yahoo to LittleBlue
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBlue View Post
Would a sign of a water pump being bad also be a whistle that is heard at certain speeds that is coincides with engine revs? It is not heard when parked, it's not a wheel bearing nor is it a tensioner or a pulley. Any ideas? Trying to narrow it down. Thanks
The wpump is electric and has no correlation to engine speed.
Thanks I should have know that! Just going through the process of elimination.
LittleBlue is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-19-2013, 10:48 AM   #173
Surly73
Captain
 
Drives: 2007 E90 328i 6MT sport/prem
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Oakville, Ontario

Posts: 722
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBlue View Post
Thanks I should have know that! Just going through the process of elimination.
I hear ya.... What engine speeds highlight it. If 1800-2000 look at the alternator (or it's one-way overrun pulley). How have you ruled out tensioners and pulleys - stethoscope?
Surly73 is offline   Canada
0
Reply With Quote
      06-19-2013, 10:53 AM   #174
LittleBlue
Second Lieutenant
 
Drives: 2006 325i
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: U.S.A

Posts: 234
iTrader: (0)

Send a message via Yahoo to LittleBlue
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBlue View Post
Thanks I should have know that! Just going through the process of elimination.
I hear ya.... What engine speeds highlight it. If 1800-2000 look at the alternator (or it's one-way overrun pulley). How have you ruled out tensioners and pulleys - stethoscope?
I've removed the belt and spun both, quiet and smooth.

And yes it's between 40 and about 55 mph, gets louder when you let go of the accelerator and coast
LittleBlue is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-19-2013, 01:21 PM   #175
Surly73
Captain
 
Drives: 2007 E90 328i 6MT sport/prem
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Oakville, Ontario

Posts: 722
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBlue View Post
I've removed the belt and spun both, quiet and smooth.

And yes it's between 40 and about 55 mph, gets louder when you let go of the accelerator and coast
Whine from the inside of the alternator may or may not sound evident when spun by hand.

Also, you said the noise was engine-speed dependent, but then gave a road speed where you hear it most.

Break it down - is it tied to road speed or engine speed? If you have an AT use manual mode to isolate.
Surly73 is offline   Canada
0
Reply With Quote
      06-19-2013, 02:03 PM   #176
LittleBlue
Second Lieutenant
 
Drives: 2006 325i
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: U.S.A

Posts: 234
iTrader: (0)

Send a message via Yahoo to LittleBlue
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBlue View Post
I've removed the belt and spun both, quiet and smooth.

And yes it's between 40 and about 55 mph, gets louder when you let go of the accelerator and coast
Whine from the inside of the alternator may or may not sound evident when spun by hand.

Also, you said the noise was engine-speed dependent, but then gave a road speed where you hear it most.

Break it down - is it tied to road speed or engine speed? If you have an AT use manual mode to isolate.
Thanks Surly73 for troubleshooting with me. The sound seems to go away if I throw the car in neutral, does that mean anything ?
LittleBlue is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:02 PM.




e90post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST