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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Repairing a 'fried' N54 MSD80 DME



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      12-02-2012, 12:16 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlbrooks18 View Post
Are DMEs interchangeable between cars, what would this entail, jus wondering if it is indeed possible to swap a "flashed" DME?
No.
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      02-25-2013, 02:11 AM   #46
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Hi all

I have spent the last week dealing with this exact issue. I can attest that what Roy says is correct. My injector 1 MOSFET was dead. I know absolutely nothing about electronics - all I did was remove the dme and took it to an auto electrician who said that injector 1 MOSFET tested differently to the others but couldn't tell me if it was busted or not.

My experience is that as soon as you say BMW and ECU or computer people generally switch off as very few dal with these. I did find some knowledgable people but they ignored what I said re symptoms and wanted to do all this other stuff. Not saying it doesn't apply but I bought the Mosfets from a computer store and a tv repair place fitted it.

This absolutely works. I suggest you replace all mosfets if you get the 30BA or 30BB code. In my case when it went it took out the cylinder 1 coil as well which I replaced first as I wasn't sure if that was causing the issue.

All in all a relatively easy fix but difficult to pinpoint as there are so many things that could be an issue. I felt compiled to reply to this as it really helped me and hope it help others.

Thank you Roy - you are a legend!!!
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      02-25-2013, 01:16 PM   #47
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So this only applies to msd80 cars?
Ive seen quite a few msd80 failure threads, hopefully its not common because I want to keep my 07 past CPO.
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      02-25-2013, 02:09 PM   #48
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You are a genius ....
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      02-25-2013, 04:26 PM   #49
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I've gotten a couple emails per month from people around the world with similar problems, and the same fix has seemed to work for them. Hopefully it doesn't become too common of an issue.
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      03-05-2013, 07:58 PM   #50
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http://www.***********.com/showthrea...n-the-ecu-30BB

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      03-12-2013, 06:05 PM   #51
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Thank you very much!!! I had the same problem. I replaced two transistors and my DME works again.

Could this problem be related to tuning? My dme crashed instantly after updating to the JB4 G5 iso firmware.

Would it make sense to replace all transistors to avoid that problem in future? At the moment i only replaced the two damaged transistors.
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      03-12-2013, 06:28 PM   #52
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This exact thing happened to me a week ago, unfortunately I was pointed to this thread the same day the dealership had installed a new DME on my car, when it was all said and done total price was $2100. Car is running perfect but im also wondering if it has to do with the JB4 or if I should be looking at the wiring for exposed wires, I donít want this to happen again. My new DME is warrantied, I just hope itís not the JB4 causing this issue.
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      03-12-2013, 10:25 PM   #53
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mine occurred right after installing my Jb4 G5 ISO as well, after a few 3rd gear pulls, loud pop and that was that.
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      04-02-2013, 03:19 PM   #54
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Help with this repair

Hi, I also have this issue - Fried DME 2 weeks ago, same codes/symptoms on manual '07 335i, 04/07 build. Didn't know what happened at the time. Dealer wants to replace 6 injectors, 6 CP's and plugs, and then new DME. looking at $4k repair bill CP's, Plugs, Injectors & coding, which i can replace myself.

I'd like to perform this transistor replacement, I am fairly confident in my skills, and have reasearched several posts about it. I've already ordered 7 transistors, both direct replacement version, and 7 upgraded ones like those shown above. Does anyone have specific directions around how to test a transistor, and how to desodder/sodder the new one? This would a great help to the community here.

1.How to test the 6 transistors via continuity loop - e.g. where to stick the probes?? (i tried this on an old sound card and i only got beeps when placing the probes in 1 setting - back of transistor, and left leg) - i've looked some videos, and it seems like each transistor is tested 3 ways and in a certain sequence - is this what how others have tested them?

2. What type of sodering tool and/or wire/coil was used (e.g. low heat?). some more detail around what was used would be great.

3. Where can i find directions on how to remove the DME? (dumb question??)

Thanks!
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      04-02-2013, 07:18 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
Hi, I also have this issue - Fried DME 2 weeks ago, same codes/symptoms on manual '07 335i, 04/07 build. Didn't know what happened at the time. Dealer wants to replace 6 injectors, 6 CP's and plugs, and then new DME. looking at $4k repair bill CP's, Plugs, Injectors & coding, which i can replace myself.

I'd like to perform this transistor replacement, I am fairly confident in my skills, and have reasearched several posts about it. I've already ordered 7 transistors, both direct replacement version, and 7 upgraded ones like those shown above. Does anyone have specific directions around how to test a transistor, and how to desodder/sodder the new one? This would a great help to the community here.

1.How to test the 6 transistors via continuity loop - e.g. where to stick the probes?? (i tried this on an old sound card and i only got beeps when placing the probes in 1 setting - back of transistor, and left leg) - i've looked some videos, and it seems like each transistor is tested 3 ways and in a certain sequence - is this what how others have tested them?

2. What type of sodering tool and/or wire/coil was used (e.g. low heat?). some more detail around what was used would be great.

3. Where can i find directions on how to remove the DME? (dumb question??)

Thanks!
Where did you order the MOSFETS?
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      04-03-2013, 10:10 AM   #56
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I ordered from mouser electronics.
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      04-03-2013, 10:40 PM   #57
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I would suggest you don't bother testing them - just replace all 6. These are surface mounted so I got a tv repair place to do mine - I wasn't confident I could do it.

As for removing the DME just do a YouTube search for jb4 or procede install video as it shows you where the DME is so you can remove it.

I would fix DME before coils and plugs etc - ask me how I know
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      04-04-2013, 08:22 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
2. What type of sodering tool and/or wire/coil was used (e.g. low heat?). some more detail around what was used would be great.
I used a hot air soldering station, the black box in the upper right corner of the picture below. Its' basically an adjustable heat gun for working with surface mount components:

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      04-05-2013, 05:55 PM   #59
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mine occurred right after installing my Jb4 G5 ISO as well:
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Last edited by carcars 335i; 04-05-2013 at 06:08 PM.
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      04-05-2013, 06:13 PM   #60
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Been there

Great job man. I had the exact same issue with a C32 AMG two years ago. The car had been wrecked and the wiring harness was toast. I of course did not find this out until I received several very expensive bills, despite having it inspected by two reputable MB dealerships.

My (unsolicited) advice is to get rid of the car. Buy a identical one with a CPO warranty if you like, but bad wiring harnesses are problem factories. This won't be the last thing it throws at you. Even if it costs more to buy it will be better than it being bled out of you by numerous trips to the mechanic.

My C32 list of pain. Not all of it was caused by the harness, but I and my mechanic believe the radiator fan (stuck at full speed for weeks), A/C failure, and ECU were all related to the harness.

- B service Performed ($160)
- New front pads/rotors ($350)
- New Goodyear Eagle GT Tires ($600)
- New Chrome-style Key ($126)
- New Radiator (replaced Valeo with Behr after testing for glycol contamination isuse) ($400)
- New valve cover gaskets ($200)
- New thrust arm bushings ($170)
- New Fuel filter ($106)
- New crankshaft pulley and harmonic balancer ($600)
- New engine fan (broken by belt falling off) ($850)
- New front engine cover (star fell off) ($100)
- New windshield (rock cracked old one) ($0 thanks to State Farm)
- New foglights (cracked by road debris) ($0, State Farm again)
- Serviced transmission, replaced filter, fluid, and seals ($140)
- Replaced Coolant ($100)
- New Timing Chain Tensioner ($650)
- New Air Conditioning system installed after compressor failure ($2,200)
- Replaced engine wiring harness, rebuilt fuel injection computer ($2,700)

Read more: http://m.mbworld.org/forums/showthre...#ixzz2PdK48YUU
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      04-05-2013, 07:20 PM   #61
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lol wat?
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      04-06-2013, 11:50 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
lol wat?
Ciff's Notes Version: don't keep a car that has electrical issues, especially if its a bad wiring harness.
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      04-09-2013, 07:36 PM   #63
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Was the root cause of these DME failures a bad coil? Today my #3 went bad and allegedly caused a short frying the DME. 6CP's, plugs, new DME for $3k

From what i have ascertained from the dealer, they will need to program a new DME by pulling from the burnt DME, meaning they can still communicate with it. Why would they program a new DME ('07 build) with the old?

Is it a possibility that some transistors need to be replaced?
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      04-10-2013, 10:41 AM   #64
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This thread is currently saving my ass. Exact same transistor blew for me, injector #5. My shop is working with me on this, seems like it may work. I'm assuming you just soldered the new one on?
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      04-11-2013, 08:08 AM   #65
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Correct. Only thing is t make sure your coils and plugs are ok. I needed to change 1 coil and 1 plug afterword - the coil was on the cylindr related to the transistor, the plug I replaced was not but kept giving me codes. Good luck!
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      04-22-2013, 10:16 AM   #66
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My MSD80 DME just died today as well. I thought the car ran badly with the HPFP gone bad, but this is way worse... I can reset all faults, except 30BA, so I've ordered a new MSD81 instead, and will have the dealer code it. Also ordered new coil packs since they have 85k on them and would probably fail soon if they haven't already.

Had injectors replaced a year ago, so will only replace them if the new DME and CPs aren't enough.

Good thing I didn't buy new wheels yet, cause this is gonna cost a few bucks....
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