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      03-12-2013, 03:02 PM   #1
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Koni yellows & Eibach springs install (what else do I need?)

E90 335xi, car is close to 60K miles and replacing the suspension next week. Have the Koni yellows & Eibach springs on order. I keep reading different threads about bump stops or hats and what not when replacing the suspension. Does anyone know what else do I need to complete the install?
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      03-12-2013, 03:35 PM   #2
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Have the same combo on my car. Lot of people are using OEM e36 M3 bump stops in front. I did and they work fine. Whatever you need them to be shorter than the OEM 335xi, and after 60k miles yours may just crumble into dust if you try to cut them. Rears need to be trimmed 1", some have used Z4 stops. I just trimmed the originals, off of the thicker firmer part leaving the progressive part. Also you may want new dust boots, or reuse the boots you've got. The bump stops fit into them and keep the shaft from getting too scratched or dirty & possibly contaminating seals.

Other than that no extra parts are needed, the hats were for people trying to use lowering perches which no one seems to be very pleased with on an Xi. If you are doing it yourself be sure to read the various DIY threads in the DIY section, and have all the right tools on hand, including a good spring compressor. It is not very hard but you can screw it up if you aren't careful. (Do not follow the one where the guy takes the springs off without taking the strut assembly out, I do not know what that guy was thinking.)

Make absolutely certain you get the strut housing seated as far down as they can go in the front hubs, many folks screw this up and wonder why their car isn't low enough. With the Konis they'll stick out a good 2" below the hubs.

Many recommend to set the struts 1/2 turn from full soft, full soft is only relative to full hard on these shocks, and full soft is a lot stiffer than stock.

edit: you'll love them, good luck.
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      03-12-2013, 07:11 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsalida View Post
Have the same combo on my car. Lot of people are using OEM e36 M3 bump stops in front. I did and they work fine. Whatever you need them to be shorter than the OEM 335xi, and after 60k miles yours may just crumble into dust if you try to cut them. Rears need to be trimmed 1", some have used Z4 stops. I just trimmed the originals, off of the thicker firmer part leaving the progressive part. Also you may want new dust boots, or reuse the boots you've got. The bump stops fit into them and keep the shaft from getting too scratched or dirty & possibly contaminating seals.

Other than that no extra parts are needed, the hats were for people trying to use lowering perches which no one seems to be very pleased with on an Xi. If you are doing it yourself be sure to read the various DIY threads in the DIY section, and have all the right tools on hand, including a good spring compressor. It is not very hard but you can screw it up if you aren't careful. (Do not follow the one where the guy takes the springs off without taking the strut assembly out, I do not know what that guy was thinking.)

Make absolutely certain you get the strut housing seated as far down as they can go in the front hubs, many folks screw this up and wonder why their car isn't low enough. With the Konis they'll stick out a good 2" below the hubs.

Many recommend to set the struts 1/2 turn from full soft, full soft is only relative to full hard on these shocks, and full soft is a lot stiffer than stock.

edit: you'll love them, good luck.
Thank you for the detailed reply! I found this on bavauto:

While changing shocks, you may want to replace some common wear parts at the same time. Our shock installation kits include rear compression absorbers with integrated dust boots, upper and lower shock mounts, support cups, and sealing grommets. Complete kit has parts to install both the left and right rear shocks.

Here is a pic for the front:


http://bavauto.com/lview.asp?imgfile..._e30_28_24.jpg

Is that all I need?
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      03-12-2013, 09:20 PM   #4
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Those are just OEM bump stops. I can't tell if those are for lowered or not, your first pic is not displaying. Get the e36M3 for the front go to autohausAZ they are cheapest, and trim your stock rears. If you want to get new boots and spring pads fine but I doubt you need them. The correct length bump stops are the most important part.

http://www.autohausaz.com/bmw-auto-parts/index.html
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      03-13-2013, 08:37 AM   #5
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Strut bellow part number: 31331094749

http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...nt-31331094749

Bump stops:31332225377

http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...FQbqnAodMQsAIw

Just a tad bit cheaper, note the bump stops are sold in pairs. Even though they say they don't provide tracking on the cheapest shipping (free since your going over $25), they always have sent a tracking number.

Last edited by critical05; 03-13-2013 at 08:48 AM.
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      03-13-2013, 10:29 AM   #6
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Thank you guys! You are awesome!!
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      03-13-2013, 11:40 AM   #7
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Since your gonna probably want to make some adjustments at first, I got tired of removing the strut brace to make adjustments to the front so i fabbed this up. Makes adjustments so much easier and quicker.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=811542

For adjusting the rears, no way around it, it takes some time. I have mine set at 0.5 turns from soft as well.

Last edited by critical05; 03-13-2013 at 11:46 AM.
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      03-13-2013, 04:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by critical05 View Post
Since your gonna probably want to make some adjustments at first, I got tired of removing the strut brace to make adjustments to the front so i fabbed this up. Makes adjustments so much easier and quicker.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=811542

For adjusting the rears, no way around it, it takes some time. I have mine set at 0.5 turns from soft as well.
I read that last night, ingenious! I think I'm going to go with half turn from softest and leave it at that LOL.
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      04-25-2013, 12:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsalida View Post
Those are just OEM bump stops. I can't tell if those are for lowered or not, your first pic is not displaying. Get the e36M3 for the front go to autohausAZ they are cheapest, and trim your stock rears. If you want to get new boots and spring pads fine but I doubt you need them. The correct length bump stops are the most important part.

http://www.autohausaz.com/bmw-auto-parts/index.html
Is there a DIY for the trimming and changing the bump stops? Don't slam me for asking, just say yes if there is and I will search...
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      04-25-2013, 02:18 PM   #10
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Is there a DIY for the trimming and changing the bump stops? Don't slam me for asking, just say yes if there is and I will search...
Nope. Just use a hack saw and do it by hand. As for changing them, as part of the install the susp is disassembled, you do it then and re-install trimmed stops back onto shocks where they were originally (inside dust boots).

I have always used the tapered/progressive end, and trim 1" off of the harder/firmer end. This is for the rear if using your old OEM stops. In front you should use new stops off e36 M3 and do not trim.

This will all make more sense once you see them.
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      05-05-2013, 06:48 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsalida View Post
Nope. Just use a hack saw and do it by hand. As for changing them, as part of the install the susp is disassembled, you do it then and re-install trimmed stops back onto shocks where they were originally (inside dust boots).

I have always used the tapered/progressive end, and trim 1" off of the harder/firmer end. This is for the rear if using your old OEM stops. In front you should use new stops off e36 M3 and do not trim.

This will all make more sense once you see them.
Thanks, perfect!
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      05-05-2013, 10:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsalida View Post
Have the same combo on my car. Lot of people are using OEM e36 M3 bump stops in front. I did and they work fine. Whatever you need them to be shorter than the OEM 335xi, and after 60k miles yours may just crumble into dust if you try to cut them. Rears need to be trimmed 1", some have used Z4 stops. I just trimmed the originals, off of the thicker firmer part leaving the progressive part. Also you may want new dust boots, or reuse the boots you've got. The bump stops fit into them and keep the shaft from getting too scratched or dirty & possibly contaminating seals.

Other than that no extra parts are needed, the hats were for people trying to use lowering perches which no one seems to be very pleased with on an Xi. If you are doing it yourself be sure to read the various DIY threads in the DIY section, and have all the right tools on hand, including a good spring compressor. It is not very hard but you can screw it up if you aren't careful. (Do not follow the one where the guy takes the springs off without taking the strut assembly out, I do not know what that guy was thinking.)

Make absolutely certain you get the strut housing seated as far down as they can go in the front hubs, many folks screw this up and wonder why their car isn't low enough. With the Konis they'll stick out a good 2" below the hubs.

Many recommend to set the struts 1/2 turn from full soft, full soft is only relative to full hard on these shocks, and full soft is a lot stiffer than stock.

edit: you'll love them, good luck.
Just got my Koni/Eibach installed with advice from ajsalida and others. The bumpstops and other notes were dead on. Thanks again for the help!
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      05-06-2013, 01:29 AM   #13
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Pics!!! I am really thinking about doing this setup
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      05-06-2013, 07:56 AM   #14
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Here is an interesting approach the the rear stops, not sure how much better or worse it is than just trimming 1" off the stiff end.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=836365
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      05-07-2013, 04:17 PM   #15
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Pics!!! I am really thinking about doing this setup
Before:
Front gap is about 2.75"
Rear gap is about 2.25"

After:
Front gap is 1.5"
Rear gap is about 1"
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      05-20-2013, 08:46 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsalida View Post
Have the same combo on my car. Lot of people are using OEM e36 M3 bump stops in front. I did and they work fine. Whatever you need them to be shorter than the OEM 335xi, and after 60k miles yours may just crumble into dust if you try to cut them. Rears need to be trimmed 1", some have used Z4 stops. I just trimmed the originals, off of the thicker firmer part leaving the progressive part. Also you may want new dust boots, or reuse the boots you've got. The bump stops fit into them and keep the shaft from getting too scratched or dirty & possibly contaminating seals.

Other than that no extra parts are needed, the hats were for people trying to use lowering perches which no one seems to be very pleased with on an Xi. If you are doing it yourself be sure to read the various DIY threads in the DIY section, and have all the right tools on hand, including a good spring compressor. It is not very hard but you can screw it up if you aren't careful. (Do not follow the one where the guy takes the springs off without taking the strut assembly out, I do not know what that guy was thinking.)

Make absolutely certain you get the strut housing seated as far down as they can go in the front hubs, many folks screw this up and wonder why their car isn't low enough. With the Konis they'll stick out a good 2" below the hubs.

Many recommend to set the struts 1/2 turn from full soft, full soft is only relative to full hard on these shocks, and full soft is a lot stiffer than stock.

edit: you'll love them, good luck.
I just ordered Koni FSD & Eibach Pro's, Do you know if this is also necessary for an E90 330XI?
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      05-21-2013, 05:23 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by toicy4ya View Post
I just ordered Koni FSD & Eibach Pro's, Do you know if this is also necessary for an E90 330XI?
In all likelihood yes. The pro-kit are lowering springs, you need to trim the stops or use new e36m3 front and z4 rear as described in many threads here.
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      05-21-2013, 06:45 PM   #18
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BTW, since the install the rear has settled even more. 0 gap. Almost too low IMO.
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      05-21-2013, 07:00 PM   #19
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Quote:
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BTW, since the install the rear has settled even more. 0 gap. Almost too low IMO.
Funny you mention that I was looking at mine the other day and thought it looked a bit low too. No bottoming or anything but I made a run to Walmart and loaded up the trunk with maybe 150 lbs of consumer goods (plus spare tire and assorted stuff), looked super low. Rode fine then again no bottoming but I think you are right these things will settle.

I need to get under the front and see if I can release any binding of bushings up there. Front does not appear to have settled at all. Outside of putting on some DP's (which I NEVER want to do again) have not been under there this spring yet for any susp related stuff.

edit: I forgot, I did put the spacers on, 12/15mm F/R and that has me looking hard again at the gaps all around.
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      05-21-2013, 07:17 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by ajsalida View Post
Funny you mention that I was looking at mine the other day and thought it looked a bit low too. No bottoming or anything but I made a run to Walmart and loaded up the trunk with maybe 150 lbs of consumer goods (plus spare tire and assorted stuff), looked super low. Rode fine then again no bottoming but I think you are right these things will settle.

I need to get under the front and see if I can release any binding of bushings up there. Front does not appear to have settled at all. Outside of putting on some DP's (which I NEVER want to do again) have not been under there this spring yet for any susp related stuff.

edit: I forgot, I did put the spacers on, 12/15mm F/R and that has me looking hard again at the gaps all around.
Without anything in the trunk e.g. no spare, nothing but a gym bag, the car is about 13" from top of wheelwell to center of wheel in the rear and 13.5" in the front, with about 1/2" and 1" gap, respectively. I'm reviewing this b/c I drive up north to ski almost every wknd, so should have taken that into consideration...

Let me know how the spacers work out. Thx.

Last edited by thegrinchboy; 05-22-2013 at 12:06 AM.
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      05-21-2013, 09:49 PM   #21
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Just a quick update: the suspension did take some time to settle, and I had to get a re-alignment once again, which was fine. I also turned the stiffness of the adjustable shocks to 1/2 turn from soft and the car is much better, though I suspect down the road I'll want to get it to 3/4 turn or even 1 turn.

Loving the setup for daily drive commute, highly recommended.
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      05-21-2013, 10:32 PM   #22
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Just wondering if the spindle housing spreader tool is required for the removal of the front shocks or if a screwdriver, WD40 and an extra set of hands will work just fine?
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