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      03-25-2013, 12:20 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neoduffer View Post
S.O.L.
335i struts is perfect fit on a 335i.
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      05-15-2013, 12:30 AM   #68
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Can someone advice how often the MNFR states this Ohlins suspension needs to be serviced. Is it every 30k like the R&T for the M3?
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      05-15-2013, 01:09 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swifty View Post
Can someone advice how often the MNFR states this Ohlins suspension needs to be serviced. Is it every 30k like the R&T for the M3?
It's a recommendation, not a requirement. You can always call Ohlins USA to get a straight answer.
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      05-15-2013, 03:25 AM   #70
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The owners manual says every 30K for road use and 10-20 hours operation on track. Servicing involves inspection, cleaning, surface protection and oil change.
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      05-15-2013, 12:14 PM   #71
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thanks guys
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      05-19-2013, 07:08 PM   #72
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When adjusting the rear ride height the whole assembly want to turn. Looking at the picture in the first post it appears you did not use the factory spring perch just the large rubber spacer on top of the Ohlins perch. Is this the recomened install? I guess I'm questioning the movement of the ohlins perch without proper centering in the frame.

I guess I could find and old oil filter wrench (the one with the band) to hold the Ohlins perch from turning.
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      05-21-2013, 03:12 AM   #73
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Shall I still take oil change in every 30K even just daliy easy drive?
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      05-21-2013, 03:19 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Stig View Post
Shall I still take oil change in every 30K even just daliy easy drive?
Take advice from your supplier, but my view is that for a daily driver this is totally excessive.
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      06-18-2013, 10:47 PM   #75
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wheel size

Do any of you that have this Ohlins kit have wider than stock wheels? If so, how wide are your wheels and did you have any fitment problems such as the wheel/tire contacting the spring? Thinking about getting this kit and some 9" front wheels and 9.5" rear wheels but afraid I will run into rubbing issues on the strut side...Also please indicate if you have a pre-LCI or LCI car, thanks
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      06-19-2013, 12:19 AM   #76
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This has probably been asked before, but how do these compare the JRZ RS1? Both are similar in pricing, both toot "comfortable on the road; control on the track", both are given good reviews by reputable members. Did you consider the RS1 before picking up the R+T?
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      06-19-2013, 04:38 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karura View Post
This has probably been asked before, but how do these compare the JRZ RS1? Both are similar in pricing, both toot "comfortable on the road; control on the track", both are given good reviews by reputable members. Did you consider the RS1 before picking up the R+T?
No, I didn't consider the JRZ suspension. I didn't know about it before, and in any case it would not have been T▄V compliant as far as I know so it wasn't really a choice.

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      06-19-2013, 08:29 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux View Post
No, I didn't consider the JRZ suspension. I didn't know about it before, and in any case it would not have been T▄V compliant as far as I know so it wasn't really a choice.

Alpina_B3_Lux
Thank you for the response!

Makes sense, I'm surprised that JRZ isn't trying to get a T▄V certificate, or didn't have one already.

Question about your choice of leaving the rear camber links alone, what was the reasoning behind that? Is it expensive to install the rear camber links?

Wondering if it would be a good idea to save up until I can do the whole M3 suspension bits (with rear links) and get M3 coilovers, or just get 335i coilovers first then skip out on the rear links.
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      06-20-2013, 01:57 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
No, they won't fit as there is no stop for the strut.
I thought about getting the M3 camber arms and using just the M3 rear Ohlins and non M fronts but apparently you can't just buy the rears
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      06-21-2013, 06:40 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikitino25
Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
No, they won't fit as there is no stop for the strut.
I thought about getting the M3 camber arms and using just the M3 rear Ohlins and non M fronts but apparently you can't just buy the rears
HPA told me they'd eventually be able to get the dampers separately from the kit. If so you could buy the 335 struts and m3 shocks and get 336/672 lb swift springs and the m3 camber arms. That's be a sweet setup
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      06-23-2013, 02:34 PM   #81
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Should be getting this kit soon fingers crossed.

Are the rear adjustable tie rods essential?
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      06-23-2013, 08:49 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvc 22349a View Post
HPA told me they'd eventually be able to get the dampers separately from the kit. If so you could buy the 335 struts and m3 shocks and get 336/672 lb swift springs and the m3 camber arms. That's be a sweet setup
335i struts and dampers are available now, but just taking Ohlins Sweden a long time to get us as replacement parts...Mid August is what we are looking at.

1M/M3 style rear dampers don't have an ETA yet.
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      06-24-2013, 09:57 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karura View Post
Thank you for the response!

Makes sense, I'm surprised that JRZ isn't trying to get a T▄V certificate, or didn't have one already.

Question about your choice of leaving the rear camber links alone, what was the reasoning behind that? Is it expensive to install the rear camber links?

Wondering if it would be a good idea to save up until I can do the whole M3 suspension bits (with rear links) and get M3 coilovers, or just get 335i coilovers first then skip out on the rear links.

It is odd that Ground Control Street/School does not include new toe arms, as stock 335i toe arms don't fit M3 camber arms, supplied. Megan toe arms - prefer their elastomer joints same as M3. Had Heim joints. As many have found, they wear quickly.

If you install M3 camber arms, a simple affair, you may need diff shocks too. So, yes, a significant expense. Superb. Also, most shock mfg's will make units to your spec - a fit for M3 camber arms shouldn't be an issue!

.

Last edited by CALWATERBOY; 06-24-2013 at 10:05 AM.
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      09-12-2013, 08:33 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil325i View Post
I agree with you 20 clicks for a smooth daily driver with still excellent handling...
Sorry to bump old thread but need a answer. When you say 20 clicks are referring to 20 clicks from hardest setting (Wich would be 10 clicks from softest setting) or 20 clicks from softest setting wich would be 10 clicks from hardest setting.
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      09-12-2013, 11:14 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
Sorry to bump old thread but need a answer. When you say 20 clicks are referring to 20 clicks from hardest setting (Wich would be 10 clicks from softest setting) or 20 clicks from softest setting wich would be 10 clicks from hardest setting.
If we call the hardest setting 'zero' (adjuster turned fully clockwise until it stops), 20 clicks is 20 clicks anticlockwise from zero. The range of adjustment from hardest (zero) to softest setting is about 32 clicks.

Hope that helps.
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      09-12-2013, 11:58 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil325i View Post
If weclicks.... call the hardest setting 'zero' (adjuster turned fully clockwise until it stops), 20 clicks is 20 clicks anticlockwise from zero. The range of adjustment from hardest (zero) to softest setting is about 32 clicks.

Hope that helps.
Okay these are exactly like my current BC BR
. I thought these only had 30 clicks. So in essence you guys are 10clicks from softest line ohlins suggests.

Appreciate the info my friend!
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      09-12-2013, 12:20 PM   #87
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On my other coilovers I always had the rear a bit stiffer than the front Ii do have the 12kg springs). I.E 20 clicks for front from hardest and 15 clicks for rear. Opinions?
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      09-12-2013, 12:41 PM   #88
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Depends who you talk to, some will count the number of clicks in and other count the number of clicks out.
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