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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Throttle - Jumpy, jerky, touchy...



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      06-18-2013, 01:59 PM   #23
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I would like to have what you're smokin', sir, haha.
you haven't looked at any dynos have you... lol
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      06-18-2013, 02:11 PM   #24
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you haven't looked at any dynos have you... lol
Actually, I remembered the LS3 numbers wrong. Torque is about 430 as well.
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      06-18-2013, 02:22 PM   #25
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Actually, I remembered the LS3 numbers wrong. Torque is about 430 as well.
and your tuned small twin turbo i6 is likely putting out 430 ft lb of tq..
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      06-18-2013, 02:46 PM   #26
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Well, I guess it's dumb to be talking in bhp. We should be talking in whp instead of back-figuring. I think a stock LS3 C6 dyno's around 380hp 375 ft-lb, obviously dependent on a lot of variables. I'm under the impression that a JB4-only 335i is around 330-350hp, with a bit higher torque numbers (340-360?).
...but I'm no expert. I just know that my 335 sure doesn't feel as fast as my vette did (of course, there's 150-200lb weight difference too).
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      06-18-2013, 04:23 PM   #27
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op, have you looked into cleaning your intake valves? I recently did the DIY intake valve cleaning and spark plugs and the difference in low speed driveability was huge. So much so that my wife who only drives my car every few weeks came home after driving it and said "what did you do to your car, it shifts so smooth!". And for her to notice is saying something.... If you have over 40k miles you must look into this.

And yes, jb4 menu 10 (wastegate default position) and 12 (duty cycle), dial those back a ways to make the throttle more linear and less "touchy".
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      06-18-2013, 04:26 PM   #28
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op, have you looked into cleaning your intake valves? I recently did the DIY intake valve cleaning and spark plugs and the difference in low speed driveability was huge. So much so that my wife who only drives my car every few weeks came home after driving it and said "what did you do to your car, it shifts so smooth!". And for her to notice is saying something....
How many miles are on the car? I can't imagine the intake valves being that bad at 39k miles!

Edit: just saw your edit!
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      06-18-2013, 04:32 PM   #29
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oh you have no idea.....start looking around and you will find many NASTY intake valve pics, here is mine at 42k (pretty much typical by the way):





Here they are almost done, (dirty job!):




Im running the BMS oil catch can now to reduce this in the future. There are some threads out there about this carbon build up, google intake valve cleaning or "walnut blasting" (what the dealer does)
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      06-18-2013, 05:16 PM   #30
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To big of a gap will do the same as described by OP. I just went through this scenario again when i was testing spark plug gaps with the ngk's. Did you gap them at all?
gapped them to recommended spec drove and checked them twice.. if i didn't gap them at all i can assure you the car would drive and sound like a big heap of misfiring crap and the car would barely put down enough power to get moving lol.

nonetheless i'll probably check the gap on each again this weekend and see if i can find any inconsistencies.
From my experience it was fine with the. 032-.035 up to 18psi and meth. Starting off drivability suffered as described. I've been able to go as big as. 032 with 20psi and 550cc/min of meth with some mods that I'm still testing. Cleaning the valves would also help a great deal as above suggested
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      06-18-2013, 09:54 PM   #31
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Adjusting your wastegate default position, and duty cycle helps with this over-sensitivity. The newest versions of the firmware allow you to adjust both through the steering wheel controls. Have you tried this?
This is exactly what I just did and I'm trying it out. It was at 70 and I moved it down to 60. I haven't had enough of a chance to try it yet, but I will report back.

And drjekl, I know that removing the CDV would help things. I'm going to look into doing that, as I haven't liked it from the beginning.
dont remove cdv just take it off push the innards out with a drill bit then it will still appear stock.
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      06-18-2013, 10:02 PM   #32
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I would like to have what you're smokin', sir, haha.
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      06-18-2013, 10:35 PM   #33
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How many miles are on the car? I can't imagine the intake valves being that bad at 39k miles!

Edit: just saw your edit!
You don't have to imagine. Take a look at my valves at 36k miles. Try not to do it on a full stomach.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=852945
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      06-20-2013, 01:57 PM   #34
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From my experience it was fine with the. 032-.035 up to 18psi and meth. Starting off drivability suffered as described. I've been able to go as big as. 032 with 20psi and 550cc/min of meth with some mods that I'm still testing. Cleaning the valves would also help a great deal as above suggested
.022 is what i believe was recommended for tuned cars for the one step colder plugs. thats what i'm gapped at right now.

did the valve cleaning a while back.. might be time to revisit.

Lowering OL values/WGDP has helped me quite a bit..
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      06-20-2013, 02:53 PM   #35
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You don't have to imagine. Take a look at my valves at 36k miles. Try not to do it on a full stomach.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=852945
Thanks for the link. I guess I never thought about the fact that there isn't gas cleaning the intakes constantly, being direct injected. I would say it's definitely worth having a catch can!
How do I get BMW to clean this under warranty??
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      06-26-2013, 03:25 PM   #36
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Thanks for the link. I guess I never thought about the fact that there isn't gas cleaning the intakes constantly, being direct injected. I would say it's definitely worth having a catch can!
How do I get BMW to clean this under warranty??
hey before you try any hardware fixes/maintenance ask terry for the "tweaked" firmware.. 23c.. removed fuel pressure biasing, which might be the cause of your issue.. i tried it out and it fixed the jerkiness 100&
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      06-26-2013, 05:36 PM   #37
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Wait, i don't see any threads for 23c on the other site... Pm me? Thanks!
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      06-26-2013, 10:56 PM   #38
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Wait, i don't see any threads for 23c on the other site... Pm me? Thanks!
You'll need to contact terry via email for it
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      06-26-2013, 11:17 PM   #39
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I had the same problem when I first got my car. I just thought that I was getting used to the car so I just changed the way I drive. Haven't happened since then. However, it's nice to know that there are actual solutions for this.
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      06-26-2013, 11:35 PM   #40
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You'll need to contact terry via email for it
Thanks!
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      06-27-2013, 01:25 AM   #41
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Does this happen even when your clutch is warmed up? It takes about 10-15 minutes of driving before your gearbox is warmed up and is able to accelerate more smoothly. If you run map 1 or even map 2 does it do the same thing? Try turning off the jb4 (map 0) and see if it responds the same way. Ive been driving manuals for a long time and I know if the gearbox isn't warmed up you shouldn't be tromping on it too hard until it is. I have an '08 335i E92 6MT with jb4 with other performance mods. If you haven't already, you might want to look into getting a throttle body spacer. This will definitely smooth out throttle response. Let me know what you find. If it doesn't clear up on the other maps you may want to contact Terry and send in your jb4 for further troubleshooting. I hope some of this helps. Good luck
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      06-27-2013, 01:57 AM   #42
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This is common for the 6mt. I personally think it has to do with throttle by wire and the mappings in the computer. If you get even the slightest wheel spin it freaks out and pulls throttle, hit a bump it pulls throttle, I don't know what it is. But it does it stock too. Wastegate adjustments can get me pretty close, I've just learned to dive first gear differently in this car. Super light or very aggressive, not much in between.
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      07-05-2013, 05:45 PM   #43
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I haven't looked at this thread in a while! Yes, it does it without the JB4 in it, just not quite as bad. I'm just going to have to get used to it I guess. I just got the usb cord for the JB4, so I will be updating the firmware finally. Hopefully that will fix the issue with my cruise control as well (it wouldn't work at all with the JB4 installed).
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